temperature monitoring concept

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Bill Morrow

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Jan 24, 2018, 10:01:45 AM1/24/18
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Last night, I put a Wemos D1 with attached DS18B20 into the Space. 

If you are on the LAN and browse to 192.196.1.27, and if it is still running(!), you should get a graph of the temperature near the infinity mirror. The web server you are browsing to is in the ESP8266.

In the one I have at home to measure humidity in our crawlspace, I have uploaded to thingspeak.com in earlier versions. Currently I am experimenting with openhab2 home automation.

So it should be possible to also send data to ifthisthenthat, Peter.

A little more compact than what is now monitoring the laser cutter environment. 

Peter-Frank Spierenburg

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Jan 24, 2018, 2:58:32 PM1/24/18
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The project is yours Bill. Take it away! :D


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Bill Morrow

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Jan 24, 2018, 4:33:59 PM1/24/18
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Oh no!

Shawn Wilson

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Jan 25, 2018, 8:37:53 AM1/25/18
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Not working for me on Makerspace or Makerspace5G. :( 

Tom Servaes

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Jan 25, 2018, 8:43:35 AM1/25/18
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Did you turn it on? :-D It's connected to the power bar in the front room.

Tom

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Shawn Wilson

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Jan 25, 2018, 9:30:56 AM1/25/18
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Yes. :)


On Thu, Jan 25, 2018, 09:43 Tom Servaes, <tom.s...@gmail.com> wrote:
Did you turn it on? :-D It's connected to the power bar in the front room.

Tom
On Jan 25, 2018 9:37 AM, "Shawn Wilson" <redsky...@gmail.com> wrote:
Not working for me on Makerspace or Makerspace5G. :( 

On Wednesday, January 24, 2018 at 11:01:45 AM UTC-4, Bill Morrow wrote:
Last night, I put a Wemos D1 with attached DS18B20 into the Space. 

If you are on the LAN and browse to 192.196.1.27, and if it is still running(!), you should get a graph of the temperature near the infinity mirror. The web server you are browsing to is in the ESP8266.

In the one I have at home to measure humidity in our crawlspace, I have uploaded to thingspeak.com in earlier versions. Currently I am experimenting with openhab2 home automation.

So it should be possible to also send data to ifthisthenthat, Peter.

A little more compact than what is now monitoring the laser cutter environment. 

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Bill Morrow

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Jan 25, 2018, 11:22:52 AM1/25/18
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On Jan 25, 2018 9:37 AM, "Shawn Wilson" <redsky...@gmail.com> wrote:
Not working for me on Makerspace or Makerspace5G. :( 

Behold the crappiness of my code and/or ESP8266's

You could try pushing the reset button on the ESP8266, in case it's gone to some weird place.
 

Bill Morrow

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Jan 25, 2018, 11:41:51 AM1/25/18
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I just reviewed the earlier discussion: https://groups.google.com/d/topic/halifaxmakerspace/I_u5-Uish70/discussion, especially Shawn's initial specs.

Maybe a raspberry pi is a better way to go?
- can be logged into
- could run a camera
- I have successfully read DS18B20's connected to the GPIO bus with python scripts
- would work with Peter's LCD display
- could potentially also manage the 3d printer. What's that software? Octoprint?

I hate wireless connections. :)

I'll persist with the Wemos D1 for now. I suspect it stopped working because of writing the data to a file on its flash memory. Although on Thursday, it was having problems staying connected to the makerspace LAN.

Shawn Wilson

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Jan 25, 2018, 4:11:17 PM1/25/18
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My initial specs were just some thoughts.  We have a camera system now, which is only available in the front room and is blurry, but it works.  I have since changed my opinion about the water flow detection - the laser has that built in and adding a second sensor would likely be riskier.  The two biggies, I think now, are temperature and detecting the flow of air from the compressor.  The first appears solved, mostly.   The second seems to be difficult, but is important.  The air assist can and has died in a variety of ways, any one of which could have caused a fire.  Only a strict adherence to visual monitoring prevented it.  Obviously, that won't be the case forever. Someone will mess up sometime.


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Shawn Wilson

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Jan 26, 2018, 6:48:51 AM1/26/18
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Ah, just wrong IP.  Should be http://192.168.1.27/.  It's plugged into a power bar that gets turned off when nobody's here, which would explain the long lags with no data...

image.png


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Bill Morrow

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Jan 26, 2018, 2:21:43 PM1/26/18
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Good news. I'll probably come in at some point this weekend and get it moved over to the smelly room, plus start sending to adafruit.io so trends can be seen while off site.

Bill Morrow

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Jan 28, 2018, 1:24:10 PM1/28/18
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I have installed a nodeMCU monitor on the laser cutter. Just to the right of the block valve. It's feeding temperature of the vent to adafruitio:


and serving locally at HMS on 192.168.1.29.

Peter, we could switch it over to your adafruitio feed.

Still need to hook in the vent block switches.

Chris McDonald

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Jan 28, 2018, 4:10:19 PM1/28/18
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Hey Guys,

I'm using an esp8266/nodemcu to control our wood fired water heater. All the original safety features are still fully functional. The ESP-8266 just turns on and off the fans and dampers. There is a mechanical over temperature switch that cuts off the power in case something really goes wrong. It's also an open air system, so there is no risk of explosion. 

I'm using the telegram app on my phone to monitor temperature and send alerts like low water, low temperature(needs wood), etc... There is an arduino library for telegram bots that makes it very easy. Telegram works good for this as I have two discussions open with the bot. One is debugging where I have alerts turned off. The second one is for alarms. That way my phone isn't constantly dinging with debugging info. It also stores all the messages for a significant amount of time, so I have a good log of what the system is doing.

Raspberry Pi's are very much overkill for this kind of task and don't handle power disconnects and reconnects very well. Once the ESP is setup with static IP's, it boots up and connects to wifi very quickly. In my application this is important as we turn cut the power to kill the fans while we are loading wood into the fire. 

On thing to watch out for one the ESP is some of the pins have functions that prevent normal booting. I had a float switch on the flash pin, so every time the water was low the ESP wouldn't boot up. 

The OTA(over the air) library is great. It allows me to push firmware upgrades from my couch, rather than having to go down and plug a USB cabe in. 

I plan on adding remote ESP8266 to monitor temperature in each zone. So that when all the zones are up to temperature, the water temperature set point on the system can drop to save wood. 

I have an ESP32 on the way from China, I can't wait to see what it can do.

Chris 


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Bill Morrow

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Feb 1, 2018, 8:47:25 AM2/1/18
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Last night, I added sensing of the blast gate switches, and a couple of LEDs.

The green LED lights if the gate is fully open. The red LED lights otherwise. As we add more inputs (air feed pressure/temperature, blower fan state, ...) I'll update the logic so it will take more effort to get the green light. 

Feedback welcome. Here's mine.
- I am not a fan of the connectors I have used, especially for the switches. I might solder them directly to the proto board. 
- The LEDs I used are "super bright", probably annoyingly so.

Any preferences on how to provide alarms?
  • text, message, email the directors
  • post here
  • tweet
  • local only
  • the telegram app Chris describes below sounds good

Peter-Frank Spierenburg

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Feb 1, 2018, 11:09:58 AM2/1/18
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Have you considered screw terminals for connections between your protoboard and external devices like power and sensors? Just makes refactoring a lot easier.

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Shawn Wilson

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Feb 2, 2018, 2:13:12 PM2/2/18
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Awesome.  I agree the LEDs are too bright, though I didn't see the red one until Tom pointed it out.  The connector blocks it from where I tend to stand.  I would second screw terminals.

For alarms, my preference would be an audio alarm in case someone was in the space, and text to directors, or some other easily updated list of phone numbers.

Bill Morrow

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Feb 5, 2018, 9:02:36 AM2/5/18
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Yesterday, I swapped out the too-bright LEDs for one of Peter's CrystalFontz modules. I ran out of time to get it hooked up, though.

My plan is to just use the inconspicuous LEDs on the left hand side of the module to indicate blast gate position. They are two colour red/green LEDs. If both green and red are lit, the LED looks orangeish.

What I am thinking is
  • red: blast gate fully open
  • orange: blast gate not quite open or closed fully
  • green: blast gate fully closed, you are good to go away
The connector from the nodeMCU motherboard to the CFA635KL module is pretty ghetto. Have a look and chuckle, Peter. It seems to work, though.

If the connector is plugged in, the LCD display flashes spastically, maybe from insufficient power. I made a half-hearted attempt to talk to it using this library, with no success. It communicate serially at 115200 baud, according to the specs.

I also replaced the ghetto power connector with something more foolproof.

Next step is to rearrange the wall mount and switches so that the monitor is below the blast gate. That will make it easier to use the CFA635 if we ever get to the point of accepting input from it.

Every few hours, the temperature reading drops to zero. I think it might be a glitch while DHCP renews the IP address lease. I'm going to average a few readings before generating a low temperature alarm. 



Bill Morrow

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Feb 5, 2018, 9:03:23 AM2/5/18
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Chris, which telegram library are you using? I found a couple.


On Sunday, 28 January 2018 17:10:19 UTC-4, Chris McDonald wrote:

Bill Morrow

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Feb 5, 2018, 8:53:23 PM2/5/18
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Monday night, I rearranged the board and installed a new version of the software.

If you install Telegram on your device or computer, then chat (is that the right term?) with "hmslasbot", and send it "/start", you will get a response welcoming you. Then, if the temperature exceeds 25C or goes below 10C, an alarm indicating so will be sent to you. I plan to be back tomorrow, and will try one or both temperature extremes. (With  heat gun and ice respectively, not setting something on fire!)

The wall wart locked in the cabinet does not have enough juice to drive the CFA635KL LCD module reliably, I think. Before we start using it, we should probably figure out how to talk to it also, so we can erase the display, not just light up one LED. Could you check your junk pile for an old IDE laptop hard drive connector, I think that's what I vadalized to make the connector in produciton.

P.S. I forgot to switch the Adafruit IO datafeed away from my test point back to smelly_room_temperature 


Chris McDonald

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Feb 6, 2018, 4:57:35 AM2/6/18
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I'm using universal telegram bot.
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Bill Morrow

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Feb 6, 2018, 7:26:38 AM2/6/18
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Thanks Chris. That's the one I went with.

One issue: I was also running a webserver, and the combination of the two overtaxed the heap of the ESP8266, resulting in random crashes. I upgraded my ESP8266 library just now (https://github.com/esp8266/Arduino#using-git-version), and that seems to have fixed the issue. Will try that on the production nodeMCU tonight. Right now, the webserver is disabled there.

Bill Morrow

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Feb 7, 2018, 6:41:36 AM2/7/18
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I fixed the software issues last night, and cleaned up the wiring and mounting a bit.

Enhanced the software and tested the alarm processing. Found and fixed an issue with managing the subscribers to the Telegram channel, which I will install next time I am in.

The power connector is fragile. 

Bill Morrow

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Feb 13, 2018, 9:40:58 PM2/13/18
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I'm pretty much done with my concept for watching the laser cutter vent.

Instructions on how you too can monitor the laser cutter vent, and thus respond if it gets too cold, are in the wiki.

The next big addition would be to hook up the LCD display which is mounted and has a connector. I might take that on at a more leisurely pace. If anyone else wants it, go ahead!


Shawn Wilson

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Feb 15, 2018, 10:37:59 AM2/15/18
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Hi Bill,
I used it today and  got an alert with a nonsensical temperature while it was running (so good news, I am receiving the alerts now).  I suspect it's because the thermistor leads run parallel to the laser tube.  Is it cool if I remove it and put it into the exhaust line?

Bill Morrow

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Feb 15, 2018, 1:15:24 PM2/15/18
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On Thursday, February 15, 2018 at 11:37:59 AM UTC-4, Shawn Wilson wrote:
Hi Bill,
I used it today and  got an alert with a nonsensical temperature while it was running (so good news, I am receiving the alerts now).  I suspect it's because the thermistor leads run parallel to the laser tube.  Is it cool if I remove it and put it into the exhaust line?



Yeah, I saw those values. Please do move it. I was think you could even insert it into the exhaust line a bit upstream of the blocking gate. 

Bill Morrow

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Feb 15, 2018, 1:17:36 PM2/15/18
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Oh, and if you decide to shorten the wires to the temperature sensor, the order matters. It's a three wire connection to a DS18B20. Red-red (Vcc), black-black(ground) and unshielded-unshielded (1-wire signal). Or the black and unshielded might be the other way around.

Peter-Frank Spierenburg

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Feb 15, 2018, 1:40:47 PM2/15/18
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Wouldn't you want the shield to be grounded, and have one of the twisted pair be the 1-wire signal?

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Bill Morrow

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Feb 15, 2018, 4:56:06 PM2/15/18
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Yeah, unless black for a signal line is a bad idea. This isn't audio. 

I don't recall what I decided.


On Thursday, February 15, 2018 at 2:40:47 PM UTC-4, Peter-Frank Spierenburg wrote:
Wouldn't you want the shield to be grounded, and have one of the twisted pair be the 1-wire signal?
On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 2:17 PM, Bill Morrow <morr...@gmail.com> wrote:
Oh, and if you decide to shorten the wires to the temperature sensor, the order matters. It's a three wire connection to a DS18B20. Red-red (Vcc), black-black(ground) and unshielded-unshielded (1-wire signal). Or the black and unshielded might be the other way around.


On Thursday, February 15, 2018 at 2:15:24 PM UTC-4, Bill Morrow wrote:


On Thursday, February 15, 2018 at 11:37:59 AM UTC-4, Shawn Wilson wrote:
Hi Bill,
I used it today and  got an alert with a nonsensical temperature while it was running (so good news, I am receiving the alerts now).  I suspect it's because the thermistor leads run parallel to the laser tube.  Is it cool if I remove it and put it into the exhaust line?



Yeah, I saw those values. Please do move it. I was think you could even insert it into the exhaust line a bit upstream of the blocking gate. 

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Peter-Frank Spierenburg

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Feb 15, 2018, 9:12:00 PM2/15/18
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Sorry. What I am suggesting is that red versus black is merely a mnemonic device, whereas using the shield correctly in shielded-twisted-pair has actual consequences for the circuit.

Bill Morrow

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Feb 15, 2018, 9:55:53 PM2/15/18
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I understand, Peter. I don't recall if I tried to make the cabling self documenting, or electrically sound. My guess self documenting, meaning the signal is on the shielding, which is coupling nicely with noise from the running laser cutter and giving the crazy readings we see when it's running. 

In sort, a mistake, which I'll fix next time I'm in.

Bill Morrow

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Feb 21, 2018, 9:59:45 AM2/21/18
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I rewired the ds18b20 as you suggested, Peter. The signal is on the black wire beside VCC on the red, surrounded by the foil and bare wire at ground.

Alan was lasering away last night from 6:00 to 7:00. No crazy temperature values were recorded:

Thanks for the suggestion!

Shawn Wilson

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Feb 21, 2018, 10:34:56 AM2/21/18
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One crazy spike at 8:49 or so last night.  I think that corresponded to me sending a /current to the not.  Not sure why that would happen.  Probably not worth worrying about, but I thought I would mention it in case you were trying to figure it out.

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Bill Morrow

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Feb 21, 2018, 3:44:51 PM2/21/18
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I may be overdoing time slicing to avoid using the CPU for long durations. Allegedly if you do hog the CPU and don't give the TCP/IP stack enough, you can set off watchdog timers which reset the whole thing. 

The Telegram library isn't so careful. When it is busy in a loop, it interacts with my time slicing, and I think you could get an occasional missed reading. I'm not going to lose any sleep over it.

Shawn Wilson

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Feb 26, 2018, 11:19:56 AM2/26/18
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It seems the upper cutoff is likely 25C.  Can we up that to maybe 30?  I am getting nags about it, and it's up above 25 now.  Marcel is taxing it with some plywood and that room is getting quite warm.

Bill Morrow

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Feb 26, 2018, 3:44:39 PM2/26/18
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On Monday, 26 February 2018 12:19:56 UTC-4, Shawn Wilson wrote:
It seems the upper cutoff is likely 25C.  Can we up that to maybe 30?  I am getting nags about it, and it's up above 25 now.  Marcel is taxing it with some plywood and that room is getting quite warm.

Yes, I have set the high limit to 25C. I may go in tonight, if not will tomorrow, And will set it higher while there. The code is mostly in place to allow you to set limits through the web server. But I'll leave that for another day. 

Shawn Wilson

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Feb 26, 2018, 3:49:45 PM2/26/18
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Cool. No rush

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