Richard,
A few years back, I did quite a bit of research on this, because at that time I was giving thought to coating my floor before actually finishing my
garage addition. For various reasons, I didn't go that way, and still haven't done the floor. But, I think what I found out is probably still pretty
good information. There is a website
garagejournal.com who's forum gets a ton of posts about garage floor coatings. After reading a lot of those
posts, I've settled on a diy approach from Legacy Industrial (
gegacyindustrial.net) that was highly recommended on that forum. One other company came
up a lot, but I thought Legacy was better. They are super diy friendly, have a ton of information on their website, and include phone support on
weekends. At one time, they gave a 10% discount if you were a garage
journal.net member, and also have the occasional sale posted there. It's a lot
more expensive than Rustoleum at HomeDepot, and somewhat more expensive than U-Coat-It and CarGuysFlooring (Detroit based vendors). But, I think it's
a better value and a better product. It's not something you want to do every 5 years, and taking the old stuff off, is much more difficult than
putting the right stuff on.
One of the reasons I like them is they don't take shortcuts in their tech articles and recommendations. They say if you want it done right, you have
to grind the floor, and not just prep it with muriatic acid that some companies use. They've worked with Home Depot to make diamond coated prep discs
for their floor sanders rentable in most locations. And, unfortunately for the black and white checkerboard pattern they are hoping for, they said
you need to do the full 3-step process like you would with car paint, with a primer, base coat and clear coat. They assert (and I believe them) if
you want adhesion, lack of pickup, and UV fade resistance. (my lakefront garage has a fair number of windows in it.) it's just what's necessary.
Having said that, they have a newer poly-something coating, (maybe polyurea? instead of the 3 step, two-part epoxy) that they have been promoting in
ads, that I've seen lately. I think it's fewer steps/coats, but maybe pricier. Even if you decide to go with something else, it would be worth
calling their technical # as they'd still probably give you good advice. And if you are going to use them, it would be worth asking them pro's and
con's of the new product vs. the traditional for your particular application. They also offer sealers, which are a cheaper, possibly more durable, but
nowhere near as pretty product unless you polish the concrete before you put them down.
I also looked at some of the RaceDeck and SwissTrax type products, and even bought the SwissTrax sample kit that I still use as an entrance mat. If
you have a showplace garage, I think they'd be great, but If you plan a real, working garage, I don't see it as a good solution. Price-wise it isn't
much different than pro-installed epoxy, but is probably double or more what good diy epoxy costs. Although they say it will, I'm not convinced it
would hold up to floor jacks, and transmission jacks and such rolling on it, and in the case of the SwissTrax, they wouldn't roll smoothly. Also,
with the SwissTrax, if you just wanted it clean, their recommended version has open lattices in it, and you can powerwash it and it drains through the
slats. If you live on a lake, and spill a quart of oil on it, you're spending some frantic time pulling up tiles, wiping up a big mess, putting tiles
down, and probably still having to powerwash it when you finish the project. Less the wiping and washing part, dropping a tiny nut, bolt or Jesus
clip has the same issues. So, I decide life was too short for tiles.
If you want more info, give me a call, or pm me, Craig. (the one you can blame for the radiant heat!)
--
Craig Lechowicz
'77 Kingsley, Waterford, MI