Appie,
Just a suggestion, here. As a bare minimum, you could remove the wheel and drum off of the spindle of the one you deem the loosest, or requiring the
greatest number of turns to tighten, wipe off spindle, look for wear, grooves, etc. You would have the outer in your hand, wipe it down, look at the
grease for metal particles, look at the bearings themselves for spalling (longitudinal cracks), chips, pockmarks, missing rollers, blue color means
they are heat damaged, (I think), damaged cage. If all OK, and bearing rotates smoothly against its race, then look at the bearing on the back side
in the drum assembly, do the same. If all OK, repack, and ASSUME all four will get you home. If you find bearing or spindle damage, it's better in
the campground than elsewhere. I think you could use the highest quality molybdenum wheel bearing grease you could find, failing Valvoline Synpower,
I think Matt Colie uses. In about two weeks, your fingernails will be grown out enough to get rid of the black under them, unless you can work in
those mechanic's gloves. On reassembly, careful not to damage the seal on the back. Check seal to see if was the wrong one and you got metal to metal
rubbing. Chicago Rawhide is a good one, see Jims.
What does Loffen think? Yes, some mechanics have an attitude about working on old iron. Some attitudes are deep seated. It makes them feel
worthless to work on something beneath them. They just don't give a toss. Or they (hard to believe), don't know how to seat bearing races. Maybe
P.O. ran them up until they spun OK and slapped the pin in, but I find that hard to believe. You never know. It is so true you can't check
everything, but with new engine, new tranny (didn't you get a new tranny?), certainly things are getting narrowed down.
Next question. How is the trip going? Are you having a great time notwithstanding challenges from time to time?
Carey
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Carey from Ennis, Texas
78 Royale, 500 Cadillac, Rance Baxter EFI.