[GMCnet] More new engine follies

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

What's that you say, Bunky? You bolted all that stuff yup to the front of the engine and forgot the 11/32 spacer under the alternator front mount?
And now the alternator ain't aligned with the pulleys elsewhere?
Well, don't despair! Even if the spacer got misplaced. You COULD take the silly steering pump brackets loose again and spend a day getting
everything correct because the pump won't let that bolt come out.

Or, you could make a stack of washers the correct thickness, attack them with your trusty Freight, Harbor nine dollar cut-off tool, slot them, loosen
the silly bolt, slip 'em under, and tighten away.
Dunahugh would be horrified :)

--johnny


--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell


_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

And after trial and error I note that the brackets shown in the parts manual are not the brackets used on my engine to mount the alternator. The book
references a couple which aren't shown, I suspect I have one of those. So, back to Daves to see what I've misplaced.

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

On further inspection, there's an arm which goes from a stud on the valve cover bolt to the long bolt through the alternator upper bolt on which it
swivels to tighten the belt along with the two bolts in slots on the lower mount. It's in the pictures I took of Dave Shattuck's engine. I remember
it was there at disassembly. It doesn't show in the parts manual, it's one of the sets of unpictured parts. By actual test, the alternator will not
align correctly without it. It's raining cats and dogs, when it lets up I will see if it's yet in the box o stuff that came back from Mr Beaver's
shop along with the other stuff we took off the old engine. If it isn't, I'll find out if it's still o0n the old engine. If it isn't, I'll beg a
model from Dave and make a duplicate out of a piece of steel strap or angle, whichever will fit.
Anyone interest6ed in the possible f-ups replacing the engine need only contact me, so far I've committed ALL of them. My old Datsun wagon was waaay
easier.

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

I got it mounted and in line. Never underestimate the power of a 24" Crescent <TM> wrench as a bracket straightening tool. The missing bracket is,
I'm told, missing or left off on many coaches. It's a brace, not an alignment item.

Excelsior!

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

In with the radiator, courtesy of my floor jack, two jackstands, 2 4x4 pieces of cribbing lumber and about 30 cursewords. The bolt store os closed
today, no 1/2" 3/8th bolts at Tractor Supply. Plenty of 3/4", flats, and locks. Full nut and nothing hanging out. Tomorrow is plumb and wire, new
filters, fab a blank off plate for the fuel pump hole, fire it and leak test it.
Another GMCer needs a place to bunk at the rally next week. I told him it won't look nice inside but I have a bunk n a bag (sleeping) for him. If it
explodes on the way, the Motel Sleaze will get the nod. Ain't missing this rally.

[Ken Henderson via Gmclist]

HE says he'll bring his sleeping bag. I'm betting he'll get to use it.
We're going up on Wednesday, the 19th. You?

Ken H

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

Wed I believe. When I made the reservation they asked would it be OK if they put me by some guy named Henderson. K. I said that would be fine as
long as there were no loud parties or people drinking strong spirits and playing loud hug - dancin' music.

Meantime, I didn't spin it. I could have, ever thing is plumbed and clamped and tested tight. Except the upper radiator hose. I finished the
dipstick and the other hose. Wringing wet qwith sweat, greasy and pistoff. Not the time or frame of mind to pay needed attention to a PIA connection
which absolutely has to be done right even if you can't see it. (You can't) I have had it blow off on the roar. Once was sufficient.

A shower later, she and I shall repair to the backyard and take air. In the morning, fill it and run it.

[Ken Henderson via Gmclist]

Good luck -- 'though I don't think you'll need that.

Ken

[Douglas Smith via Gmclist]

Gentlemen,
If I ever get the chance to take air and savor an adult beverage with the two of you I will be grateful for the opportunity.
Safe journeys.

Douglas & Virginia Smith
dsmithy18 at gmail
Lincoln Nebraska
’73 “Canyonlands” since ‘95: “Wanabizo”, Anishinabe Indian for “He gets lost driving” Yes, really.
Quadrabag/6 wheel disks/3;70 final/Paterson QuadraJet/Thorley’s/Sundry other
P&W PT6, no wait, that's the wish list...

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

Geez, Smith alls you got to do is show up with a GMC or an interest in one, and leave your politics and religion at the house. P&W = Push and Wait
:)

--JOHNNY

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

I have it in one piece. Pulled the sparking plugs out, spun it on the starter till the oil pressure came up to 40 psi (on the starter) and figured
it's properly oiled. Six quarts of Driven 10 - 40 conventional break - in oil, per the rebuilder's instructions. Got a case of the stuff for after
break - in too. Each quart looks like 28 ounces of ZDDP and 4 of oil :)
If I did my arithmetic right, give the number of bolts and accessories - and the blank plate, don't forget the blank plate - there are about 2,734
possibilities here of which fewer than ten are correct. I don't think I missed any of the wrong ones.
It needs the Atomic FI brain remounted and the harnesses ty - rapped <tm> up. But I wanted to hear it vroom before I called it a day. 12 volts on
the FlameThrower, a bit of gas down the FI throat and spin it. The sumbich VROOMs. No gross leaks that I can see. I'll put a hundred miles on it
tomorrow afternoon and check everything. Wednesday we roll.

[Randy Hecht via Gmclist]

Slight movement

Chaplain Randy Hecht
Chaplains are ready to Listen when you're ready to talk.

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

So I started out, it overheated, I came home. Finally got back to figuring it out. I though perhaps there's too much space around the fan shroud.
Actually, in retrospect, it overheated by sitting idling in traffic for about fifteen minutes at 750 - 800 RPM or so, I shut it down at 220 degrees,
let it cool a bit, and brought it home for further inspection. Again in retrospect, it was like 110 F on the asphalt. So, today I fired it up and
high idled it in neutral. About 210 - 215 on the gauge, the fan came on. Again at high idle, pulled it right down to ~~ 185 and shut off. Warmed
back up and came on again and pulled it down. My override switch has no effect, I'll chase the wiring and find out why. In the interim, we'll stay
out of Drive stopped in traffic on hot days. Air/Fuel ratio gauge says 14.7 - 15.0 at high idle, no leaks, and the like. Mr. John didn't seem
greatly bothered by the oil pressure, which is running 60 - 80 PSI depending RPM. It has failed the mechanical gauge though, which now has oil about
a third of the way up the glass. This on 10-40 breakin oil full of ZDDP. Tomorrow I'll run it up the freeway a ways and back through the back roads
and see how it does. If it's as smooth as it has been, it's ready to go. Next scheduled trip is to Harrison Bay State Park North of Chattanooga for
a four day show. If the filter is clean when I open it after the breakin oil change, I'm gonna 'drive it like you stole it'.

[tonka6cuda6--- via Gmclist]

Johny just a suggestion or a possibility or your hot motor temps....what blend of engine coolant did you put in? Did you mix your own?
--
Rich Mondor,

Brockville, ON

77 Hughes 2600

[Jim Kanomata via Gmclist]

Fan clutch might need to be replaced.

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

[tonka6cuda6--- via Gmclist]

It might be a side step but measure the coolant thats in your coach....if you dont have an antifreeze tester (the basic bobble with a suction bulb
type is good enough) you might have to spurge at Autozone for one.....you need a 50/50 mix...if its to far off one way or the other it will affect the
heat carrying capability of the coolant.

If this was an old motor you might get away with a bad blend but with a new tight motor thats going to run hot to start with its gotta be right.

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

a: 2 gallons of glycol (Whichever one comes in the yellow bottle) and filled with distilled water since I had four or five gallons of it kicking
around.
b: Better not be a problem with the fan clutch, it's the electric one a couple of our suppliers sell with a gee - whiz controller. Off a Mercedes
Sprinter.

I'll point out in re the fan and clutch assembly, I don't use any of the several controllers, the first few of which I built. The MSD Atomic FI has
two fan outputs for electric fans each settable for turn on temperature. I think I set it for 210 or so on one, 198 or so on the other, and
paralleled them running the clutch relay. The current kit now supplies an adjustable temp controller, much less fuss than the initial which
controlled the turn on temp by the selection of the probe in the water jacket. As well as being settable with a control, I suspect it's more accurate
than the temp probes which all appear to be made by the heathen chinee these days.
There are in the background some trials going on with a PWM controller which would vary the speed of the fan infinitely rather than it's on or off.
The intent is to perhaps quiet the operation a bit. I've not been involved in this, frankly I want to hear the thing spin up. The manufacturer tells
us it's not hurt by having the clutch valve engaged fully all the time. I look on the setup I have as being PWM with very wide pulses. Also, my
coach has considerable sound deadening and the Mercedes fan doesn't make nearly as much racket as the original when it's spinning. Control it however
you see fit is my approach.
Those of you who saw Tom Pryor's demo unit at a rally may have noticed the tachometer. The Mercedes clutch, like all the electric ones I've seen, has
the ability to drive a tach. Feed it 5 volts and ground and it will spit out a pulse train of 6 pulses per revolution. If you wan accuracy, divide
the pulse train by 2 with a simple flip-flop chip and feed the result into a tach set for a six cylinder engine and you will get true RPM of the fan.
As an aside, if you want a tach that's useful on the GMC as opposed to one which never rises above about half scale, set the tach for a four cylinder
engine. Then remove the lens carefully, black out the numbers, and replace them with drafting rub - offs with each being half the number it covers.
This will give you on an 8K tach 0 to 4K full scale. Too me, a lot more useful. Plus, people who saw it (SunTach II) were all like "Where'd you get
a 4k Tach? Cost a fortune?" I think it was 29.95 and mounted above and between the two OEM clusters. Unless Mike Briere has redone the dash, it
should still be on his coach.

--johnny

[Jim Kanomata via Gmclist]

If the fan does not come on around 210, then you need to adjust the
controller.
I have put on over 25,000 miles on the same unit and have swapped 3
controllers.
Controllers come from Red China.

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

a: The fan comes on at the desired setting.
b: The controller is an MSD Atomic fuel injection system. Made in this country and working correctly.

[tonka6cuda6--- via Gmclist]

Johnny Bridges wrote on Mon, 15 July 2019 08:24

> a: The fan comes on at the desired setting.
> b: The controller is an MSD Atomic fuel injection system. Made in this country and working correctly.
>
>
>
> --johnny

Johnny check your coolant blend.....rule out the basics and the easiest first.....it needs to be 50/50 +/- 5 or its not going to cool properly.

--
Rich Mondor,

Brockville, ON

77 Hughes 2600

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

After some thought, it behaves like there's a restriction or blockage somewhere. Same time distance cruising it hits 220. I gave it an hour and
drove it home watching the temp go up. It's boiling into the overflow, and sucking it back down, so the recovery system is working. Which means the
cap is working, and that it boils right around 220 degrees means the same plus there's some glycol in it. It's what was taken out of the old engine,
plus added as needed pure glycol. I shall attack in the morning with my temp gun and (probably) a new vocabulary. Brand new Cardone roller pump.
New fan which at idle comes on properly driven by the injector. At idle, temp rises to set point, fan spools up, temp retreats. Just what you'd
expect. This installation does not have an oil cooler - has OEM trans cooler. Radiator was recored about a year ago.

I'm open to ideas.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell

[Emery Stora via Gmclist]

Did you check the thermostat ? It sounds as if the stat is not opening. Put it in a pan of water on the stove with a thermometer (even a candy thermometer will work. )

Make sure it opens before it boils.

Emery Stora

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

Sprinter fan kit - won't go but one way. 'Stat removal is next.

[Ken Burton via Gmclist]

Leaking head gasket between cooling system and and cylinder. Get a cooling system pressure tester and on a COLD engine pump it up and see if it holds
pressure at around 7-9 psi. If it leaks down cold you have a cooling system leak which is probably a head gasket. It is an easy test to do.

It is just a guess but I have seen it several times.
--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

I'll see if Advance has a loaner pressure tester. Thermostat test shows it works correctly, 180 and it's open. Strange looking 'stat, the outer cup
retracts when it gets hot.

[John Wright via Gmclist]

Johnny,

Unsure on the type of thermostat that you are currently using, but if it is a stock style and not a Robertshaw High Performance type thermostat then you can be creating you own problems as a stock style thermostat does not flow enough coolant and are subject to failure, just ask Jim B.

By Stock thermostat I mean this type:

<https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?Ntt=thermostats&requestYear=&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&year=&make=&model=&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false>

By Robertshaw High Performance I mean this type:

https://www.gmcrvparts.com/product-p/gm8-006-14-180.htm
https://www.gmcrvparts.com/product-p/gm8-006-14-195.htm
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-4364
<https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchResultsPageCmd?Ntt=mrg-4364&requestYear=&storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&year=&make=&model=&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false>

Notice the difference in construction of the units. The stock style unit is limited on the amount of flow that it can pass. The amount of heat that needs to be removed by the coolant requires a higher performance type of thermostat, look at the size radiator that we have for heat rejection. I have included both the 180 and 195 thermostats as GMC owner have run both. I personally have run only the 180 degree unit over the last 19 years as my thoughts that I want to remove as much heat as I can with the 180 deg unit. Some with fuel injection may run the 195 deg unit.

The High Performance type thermostat are available at most auto part store.

I have presented the various information available and the choice is yours to make!

Regards,

J.R. Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMC Eastern States Charter Member
GMCMI
78 GMC Buskirk 29.5’ Stretch
75 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan

[Jon Roche via Gmclist]

I found over the years that I am a proponent of a 195 thermostat. I feel it holds temp much more stable, and keeps moisture out of the oil.
When running the 180 thermostat i found big swings on the temp gauge and the IR temp readings of the radiator higher. I think it adds strain
on the cooling system to constantly try to maintain an engine temp 15 degrees cooler.

But i know plenty of gmc's who run the 180 thermostat.


One other thing to try is a flow test on the thermostaT. Ray E had a new thermostat that when the thermostat was closed. Water flowed through it
easily. But his issue was opposite, his engine never got warm enough.
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/

[Ken Burton via Gmclist]

Do NOT buy one from Harbor Freight. They do not include the correct adapter for out radiator filler.

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

[Larry via Gmclist]

FYI The 4362 may be good for the Olds motor, but is different for the Cadillac. See this series of photos for the Cadillac solution.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4145-cadillac-500-thermostats.html
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

[John R. Lebetski via Gmclist]

Triple check the cap. The outer seal is good as you have proven fluid leaves and returns. But it might not be holding any pressure. Usually the tiny
spring on the poppet return valve has failed. Don't be fooled buy the pressure tester tool. That usually puts the cap inverted during test and can
give a false GOOD due to gravity. I just squeeze the upper hose cold and you can feel the valve close and offer resistance as a go/no go test.
--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

[Charles Boyd via Gmclist]

I am confused, I am sure Robert-Shaw is out of business and has been for a while. I was under the impression that the Mr. Gasket thermostat was
making the Robert-Shaw style of thermostat and was the preferred thermostat. What did I miss?








JohnL455 wrote on Mon, 12 August 2019 17:26

> Triple check the cap. The outer seal is good as you have proven fluid leaves and returns. But it might not be holding any pressure. Usually the

> tiny spring on the poppet return valve has failed. Don't be fooled by the pressure tester tool. That usually puts the cap inverted during test and

> can give a false GOOD due to gravity. I just squeeze the upper hose cold and you can feel the valve close and offer resistance as a go/no go test.


--

C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee

[Tom Whitton via Gmclist]

Is the lock washer on the inner bolt necessary if using Loktite?

Tom Whitton
Paducah, Ky
26 ft updated GMC

[THOMAS R WHITTON via Gmclist]

[James Hupy via Gmclist]

Not only yes, but, hell yes. BLUE LOCTITE, ONLY. If you use red, and I have
anything to do with loosening those bolts, I will be a very unhappy
technician. Prone to use the top rung of the charging ladder.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or.

[Matt Colie via Gmclist]

THOMAS R WHITTON wrote on Tue, 13 August 2019 12:33

> Is the lock washer on the inner bolt necessary if using Loktite?
>
> Tom Whitton

I know that I am going to be disagreeing with some, but the conventional SAE split washer lock washers will be of little value with the Gr.12 (aka
MS20K) DHHCS (Double hex head cap screws) in this application. Those lock washers work only when they can get a bite into both the fastener and the
body. The hardness of the MS20K DHHCS is about 75Rc. A file is only 80Rc. So, not much chance there. But, if you do not pull the fasteners to full
tension (aka torque) your ass is in line for a big disappointment. Loktite is advised, but be sure to use the cleaner.

I have never observed one of these fasteners yielding during assembly. None the less. I never reuse then. They are so close to proof load and they
have just about zero yield curve. (See Below)

Because I am a little paranoid. (OK, seriously paranoid) I carry a collection of the MS 20K DHHCS, the correct socket and a torque wrench as part of
the coach's standard kit. (Please note: We have a 23 and storage is a premium.) The big assed socket for the outer end is usually available
somewhere.

In the yet to be published account of the adventure this spring, I had to replace the Stbd (right) drive axle on the flat of the very friendly GMC
owner Duane Webber in Ellorie (?) SC. I was very glad to be there, but that is about a two/three beer story on its own. If you run into him, thank
him for me.

This application should not be taken lightly. A failure here could ruin several days of excursion if you are lucky.

Matt
--
Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit

[Jim Kanomata via Gmclist]

There are times the bolt will hit the final drive housing ad the washer
does avoid that.

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

[James Hupy via Gmclist]

The lock washers fitted on those 12 point special bolts are just as special
as the bolts. I agree with Matt most of the time, but not in this
situation. Just because you are paranoid, doesn't mean that the WHOLE WORLD
isn't out to get you. (Grin)
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or

[Charles Boyd via Gmclist]

Hi Tom. Yes and yes.
The OEM bolts were shouldered and the threads did not go all the way up the bolts and without the extra thick lock washers that would thread out
before clamping tight. If you use the replacement bolts that are threaded all the way to the head without the thick lock washers you can hit the
housing.. they are special lock washers and are there for a reason. New Lock washers and locktite and 70lb torque.

THOMAS R WHITTON wrote on Tue, 13 August 2019 12:33

> Is the lock washer on the inner bolt necessary if using Loktite?
>
> Tom Whitton
> Paducah, Ky
> 26 ft updated GMC
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee

[THOMAS R WHITTON via Gmclist]

Jim and Matt,
I get both of your points.  Basically, take no chances,  wear your belt and your suspenders.  My thought is to use both a lock washer and blue Loctite on the inner CV joint bolts.  (Mine presently have neither but that's about to change.)  The lock washers may not dig in and do much but they won't hurt anything and may help a little.  You guys agree?  
It would be hell for the CV joint to sling apart.
Tom Whitton26 foot updated GMCPaducah, KY 

[Mike Hamm via Gmclist]

All all costs don't use split lock washers.
Under high load they tent to open up.
--
1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts

[Jim Kanomata via Gmclist]

Mike I’m sure Matt C Can address that.
I was at a Convention when he did a in depth presentation on application of
fastners.

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

[Richard Denney via Gmclist]

The intended high-collar lock washers are designed for these loads and I’ve
never seen them open up.

Also, they provide just a bit more bolt between the head and the threads.
This is where the bolt stretches elastically under tensioning, and it’s
that elastic strain that keeps them from ever losing tension under load.
Loss of tension is what allows them to back out and get loose, just as with
spokes on a bicycle wheel.

I believe the high tensioning torque is there to cause any internal
stresses to yield and these be relieved. These can be microscopic but can
contribute to fatigue failures. Tensioning close to proof load actually
prevents fatigue in bolts not loaded in tension (except from tightening),
which these are not. The tightest these bolts ever are is just sitting
there after torquing them down. They are loaded in pure shear, but it’s the
clamping friction that carries the load.

So, the lock washer doesn’t work by biting into the bolt, it works by
preventing any loss of tension in use, which keeps the bolts from backing
out.

Rick “all structures are elastic” Denney

--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

If the clamping tightness is such that the plate doesn't move relative to the CV plate, the bolts are in tension. Should the two plates move, then
the bolts are in shear. I used blue LocTite <tm> on mine at 60 ft-lbs and they haven't moved since I got the coach. I figured the thick locks were
there for a reason, and the Fastener Room at Coker's had a boxful so I used them.

--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell

[Richard Denney via Gmclist]

Johnny, I should have said the structure is loaded in shear, not tension.
Therefore, there is no structural tension load on the bolts, in addition to
their tightening tension. That’s why they can be tightened to near proof
load.

Engineers often state that bolts are loaded in shear when they mean that
structures are loaded in shear. Any bolted connection that uses holes large
enough not to be an interference fit carry their loads by clamping
friction.

I’m not opposed to Loctite by any means, though I do wonder how that
changes the torque requirements. I am opposed to using Loctite as an excuse
to avoid tightening them to spec, in the false notion that the bolts can’t
take it. I’ve heard of many loosened drive axles, but I’ve never heard of
broken bolts during or after torquing, if they were the proper
high-strength bolts.

Rick “the factory didn’t use Loctite” Denney

--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com

[James Hupy via Gmclist]

Never seen ANY broken CV joint bolts, but I have seen a whole bunch of them
come loose and fall out on the road, PARTICULARLY on the drivers side of
the coach.
If I encounter a really "grungy" coach, I liberally clean that area
with Brake Kleen and chase the threads with a thread chaser tap. Then a
follow up spray with carb cleaner, followed by compressed air. Then, new
bolts and the special lock washers, with blue loctite. Torque to spec. (65
- 70) foot pounds. Makes me cringe to put that much torque on that little
bolt, but, they are supposed to be a one time use deal.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

I hied myself to Advance and borrowed their pressure test kit. Surprise, surprise, won't fit a GMC. The direct cap adapter is too small in diameter
- I suspect it's to be used on newer cars with metric small caps..... the ears are a quarter of an inch too close together. The adapter which plugs
into the cap hole and expands is too tall to fit. I am of the opinion that the radiator is going to have to come out, and if I can drop it enough
without disconnecting the hoses, I can test ther system tomorrow as it comes out. Failing that it will be necessary to plug the upper hose and adapt
the tester into the radiator opening with the cap in place. It's too dam' hot out to mess further with it right now, heat index is an even 100.

Getting the radiator full is going to be a problem.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell

[Jim Kanomata via Gmclist]

Chuck,
The Flow Kooler is now the Robert Shaw and they do work better than the
other brands.
We sell and stock many of them, 180/195.

--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502

[Jim Kanomata via Gmclist]

https://www.gmcrvparts.com/product-p/gm8-006-14-180.htm

[Ken Burton via Gmclist]

I have same problem with the Harbor Freight one. Here is what you can do. I will cost you a radiator cap. Take a cap and cut a slit on the bottom
round rubber gasket so it can leak.

Install the modified cap. Then fashion an adapter from your pressure tester to the hose size of the over flow port on the filler. On the aluminum
radiator the port screws screws in. Probably 1/4 pipe thread. I do not remember. On an OEM radiator you will have to remove the over flow hose and
install your adapter hose with a small radiator clamp. Now pump it up through the over flow port and watch the pressure.

One time I had some kitchen matches around so I cut them to fit cross wise on top of the lip on the inside of the filler where the cap goes. That was
enough to cause the desired leak so we did not have to cut the lower rubber gasket in the cap.

--
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

Being it's Advance's tester not mine, I can't do anything which will change the tester components.
I'm waiting for some Applied parts anyhow, I'll hang till they get here. I'm in Dog Show Busy Season, so nothing is gonna happen very fast.

--johnny
--
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell

[John R. Lebetski via Gmclist]

Also the new bolts from McMaster have the usual shipping oil on them which should probably have a blast of carb/brake solvent before the thread
locking chemical application. Not sure on JimKs correct shouldered bolts but observed on the McMaster.
(Notice how I got through all that without using any ™️ names?)

--
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II

[Trevor Pordage via Gmclist]

when i replaced my cv boots i couldnt get the bolts and washers as i am in australia . my local bolt guy supplied me with 6 point allen head set
screws and nord lock washers so far done 3000 miles .
any one else had experience thith the nord lock washers https://www.nord-lock.com/nord-lock/products/washers/
--
Trevor
Brisbane Australia
Siesta Koala 76 Edgemont (old Bobby Moores)
71 Cadillac Eldo Convert
58 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham Project

[Les Burt via Gmclist]

I’ve used the nord-lock washers on high HP VWs on the inner cvj flange. They work well. I got the idea from some Porsche guys who have used them for years to keep the CVJ bolts from coming loose.

www.nord-lock.com

Les Burt
Montreal
'75 Eleganza 26'

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

ARRRGHHHHH! I am regarding the smoking hole in my foot. I caution folks, check the parts afore you install them. Took the radiator and had it
cleaned and checked, mostly so the guy could run his hot fluid cleaner through the oil cooler in both directions. Filter cloth showed no metal
particles either way, just a bit of carbon color at first which quickly came clean. So, ready to reassemble the thing, but I hadn't found a fault. I
hate putting anything that busted back together till I know what busted... because it will likely do it again. Well, how 'bout the fan ass'y itself?
It's Daimler-Benz, high quality control, etc. I don't know who their supplier is, but QC Inspector #4 can kiss my arse as the Brits say, since his
stamp is on the clutch assembly. The clutch coil is open. So, off comes the adapter, the removed pieces go back on the shroud and the original fan
and clutch go back on. Since I got the M-B one off the net many months ago, I don't think warranty is in order. New thermostat is being held in its
package, the removed one opens regularly at 180 according to my IR thermometer. New steering pump works, and I now assume the new water pump works.
I'll find out next week.

[Dolph Santorine via Gmclist]

Johnny:

In a couple of weeks there will be a lot of guys (and gals) who have all considered the smoking hole in their foot at a confab in Mansfield, Ohio.

Those who claim they have not are being less than candid.

Remind me to tell you about the first engine I built in three decades…..

Onward! You’ll get it.

Dolph

DE AD0LF

Wheeling, West Virginia

1977 26’ ex-PalmBeach
Howell EFI & EBL, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission

“The Aluminum and Fiberglass Mistress"