[GMCnet] How Do I Repair Ladder Screw Holes in Back Panel?

[Bryan Hartman]

The screws that were in there were already larger that the rest of the ladder screws. I assume someone stripped out the holes and put in larger screws
as a "fix". I want to repair this and reinstall the ladder bracket in the same spot.

Any ideas?

http://s148.photobucket.com/user/bryhart/media/GMC%20-%20Conroe%20TX%201977%20Palm%20Beach/9ABB0143-81DE-4D71-B67E-DB25DFD0EECF.jpg.html
--
1977 Palm Beach

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

[Jerry Wheeler]

On my 78 Royale, the ladder screws just below the rear window were loose.
I was able to go inside and loosen the panel just below the window and put
a plate in there and used small ss bolts and nuts to attach the ladder at
that point; I did this in 2000 and have not had a problem since then.
JR Wheeler 78 Royale 73 Painted Desert NC/OR

[gene Fisher]

Read here

http://www.dwinchester.com/GMC/

--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html

[gene Fisher]

On Thu, Apr 13, 2017 at 5:22 AM gene Fisher <mr.er...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Read here
>
> http://www.dwinchester.com/GMC/
> Back hatch screw replacement

[Larry]

Dale Ropp has given several presentations at GMCMI conventions about the use of fiberglass for building and repair of GMC related stuff. One of his
techniques for repairing holes like yours is to soak ear plugs....you know the type that you put in your ears when trap shooting.....soak them in
fiberglass resin then stick them in the holes. They will try to expand to their original shape on the inside and outside of the hole. After the resin
sets, just carefully sand off the outside flush, paint and redrill the hole. This technique puts a fairly big bung of cured resin inside the hole for
support without having to take the inside of the coach apart. I've tried this on my coach were the screws pulled out and was difficult if not
impossible to get at the inside to mount support. JWID
--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

[Jim Wagner]

Larry,
Thanks for sharing this idea. Between our GMC and Vette I know I will use that trick.

Dale Ropp has given several presentations at GMCMI conventions about the use of fiberglass for building and repair of GMC related stuff. One of his
techniques for repairing holes like yours is to soak ear plugs....you know the type that you put in your ears when trap shooting.....soak them in
fiberglass resin then stick them in the holes. They will try to expand to their original shape on the inside and outside of the hole. After the resin
sets, just carefully sand off the outside flush, paint and redrill the hole. This technique puts a fairly big bung of cured resin inside the hole for
support without having to take the inside of the coach apart. I've tried this on my coach were the screws pulled out and was difficult if not
impossible to get at the inside to mount support. JWID

Jim Wagner
Brook Park, oh
76 GMC500
71 Vega355
69 Vette383

[Steve Southworth]

The ear plugs must be the porous type with open pores. Some ear plugs have a film converting the foam to prevent them from absorbing dirt, sweat, ear
wax etc. Also prevents absorbing epoxy.





Larry wrote on Thu, 13 April 2017 08:05

> Dale Ropp has given several presentations at GMCMI conventions about the use of fiberglass for building and repair of GMC related stuff. One of
> his techniques for repairing holes like yours is to soak ear plugs....you know the type that you put in your ears when trap shooting.....soak them
> in fiberglass resin then stick them in the holes. They will try to expand to their original shape on the inside and outside of the hole. After the
> resin sets, just carefully sand off the outside flush, paint and redrill the hole. This technique puts a fairly big bung of cured resin inside the
> hole for support without having to take the inside of the coach apart. I've tried this on my coach were the screws pulled out and was difficult if
> not impossible to get at the inside to mount support. JWID


--

Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI

[Larry]

midlf wrote on Thu, 13 April 2017 09:03

> The ear plugs must be the porous type with open pores. Some ear plugs have a film converting the foam to prevent them from absorbing dirt, sweat,
> ear wax etc. Also prevents absorbing epoxy.
>
>
>
>
>
> Larry wrote on Thu, 13 April 2017 08:05
> > Dale Ropp has given several presentations at GMCMI conventions about the use of fiberglass for building and repair of GMC related stuff. One
> > of his techniques for repairing holes like yours is to soak ear plugs....you know the type that you put in your ears when trap shooting.....soak
> > them in fiberglass resin then stick them in the holes. They will try to expand to their original shape on the inside and outside of the hole.
> > After the resin sets, just carefully sand off the outside flush, paint and redrill the hole. This technique puts a fairly big bung of cured resin
> > inside the hole for support without having to take the inside of the coach apart. I've tried this on my coach were the screws pulled out and was
> > difficult if not impossible to get at the inside to mount support. JWID

Thanks Steve, forgot to mention that.

--
Larry
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.

[Adrien Genesoto]

Bryan, I used "Rivet Nuts for Plastic and Composites" from McMaster-Carr.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#rivets/=176j0fo

Use some epoxy to seal the head of the RN, and if the latter has a misalignment making the leg not sit right,
then bend or shim so as to not have any pull out force on the RN.

What I did.

--
”When we avoid the mistakes we might have made, we sometimes make the mistakes that we might have avoided.”

Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook 26-3
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6

[Emery Stora]

Or you can use well nuts as shown here.
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=rubber+well+nuts&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=174242859760&hvpos=1t2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9807577609909900246&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028880&hvtargid=aud-262039897656:kwd-8244110557&ref=pd_sl_563vqj9fro_e <https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=rubber+well+nuts&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=174242859760&hvpos=1t2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9807577609909900246&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028880&hvtargid=aud-262039897656:kwd-8244110557&ref=pd_sl_563vqj9fro_e>

They work well and are self sealing. I have them holding the top of my ladder.
You will have to open the holes to 1/2” for the large screw/bolt that you will be using. They are very strong.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO

[John Biwersi]

Have to chime in. I had to deal with the same issue at the same location on my coach. Tried the "Well nuts" which leaked. There are fiberglass
reinforcements behind the panel in that area which makes it a challenge. I ended up using what are called "jacknuts" or "expansion nuts". These worked
great. Used them on all the ladder holes. Fortunately for me, a friend had the tool to collapse the nut. Without the tool you will need a threaded
rod to screw into nut, then slide a piece of tubing over the threaded rod, then a flat washer, then a standard nut which you use collapse the nut
wings that are behind the fiberglass after pushing the nut and wings into the hole. I also put a gob of duck seal behind the flange of the jack nut.
This will all be a lot clearer once you put your hands on one of these nuts. I'm confident you will be happy with the results. Good luck.

[Bryan Hartman]

Thanks everyone. I have discovered a massive leak in the back which is going to require some significant repair to the interior in the rear. I will
post back after I gut the back section and make a choice.

[Jerry Burt]

bryhart wrote on Fri, 14 April 2017 12:55

> Thanks everyone. I have discovered a massive leak in the back which is going to require some significant repair to the interior in the rear. I
> will post back after I gut the back section and make a choice.

Ahh yes. The old "I discovered more syndrome" I can relate. My sympathies.

--
Patti & Jerry Burt
73 Gmc 26' Canyon Lands -
Photos - http://jburt.smugmug.com/GMC-Motorhome
Lots of upgrades but lots to do to make it ours.
Members: FMCA - GMCMI - GMCWS - Pacific Cruisers - 49ers

[Bryan Hartman]

pjburt wrote on Fri, 14 April 2017 15:46

> Ahh yes. The old "I discovered more syndrome" I can relate. My sympathies.

Haha...you don't know the half of it.

--
1977 Palm Beach

[Steve Southworth]

bryhart wrote on Fri, 14 April 2017 23:49

> pjburt wrote on Fri, 14 April 2017 15:46
> > Ahh yes. The old "I discovered more syndrome" I can relate. My sympathies.
>
>
> Haha...you don't know the half of it.

Yeah - in old house restoration it''s called "the mushroom factor". I my shop it has been dubbed as "the ultimate project creep."

--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

We always called it "You can't do just one thing"

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased

[Steve Southworth]

Johnny Bridges wrote on Tue, 18 April 2017 08:01

> We always called it "You can't do just one thing"
>
> --johnny

The dangerous phrase here is I"'ll do it while I'm in there".

--
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI

[Bryan Hartman]

:x
This is more like "I have to do it before I can do the thing I want to do". Now I have to start another post on how to remove the "roof joint
cover"...I tried to remove the first 3 screws and all three snapped off. I realize that I may want to ask for guidance before I snap off all 3 zillion
screws down the length of the coach.

[Bryan Hayes]

Larry wrote on Thu, 13 April 2017 07:05

> Dale Ropp has given several presentations at GMCMI conventions about the use of fiberglass for building and repair of GMC related stuff. One of
> his techniques for repairing holes like yours is to soak ear plugs....you know the type that you put in your ears when trap shooting.....soak them
> in fiberglass resin then stick them in the holes. They will try to expand to their original shape on the inside and outside of the hole. After the
> resin sets, just carefully sand off the outside flush, paint and redrill the hole. This technique puts a fairly big bung of cured resin inside the
> hole for support without having to take the inside of the coach apart. I've tried this on my coach were the screws pulled out and was difficult if
> not impossible to get at the inside to mount support. JWID

This is a great idea. Not to hijack the thread, but has anyone tried doing something similar with the holes for the clearance lights? I've got a few
rear clearance lights where the screw holes have gotten a little too large for the rivet nuts that I'm using on the rest of the coach, but still too
small for the next size up.
--
Bryan Hayes
'76 Eleganza II
Salt Lake City, Utah

[Jon Roche]

Have
Not tried
It myself. But dale's presentation at chippawa falls stuck with me.

If the ear plug is big enough for the well nut hole it should work the same. Dale suggested for larger holds, use a sponge soaked in the epoxy.


--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/