The surge tank (they call it “Command Center”) is especially nice looking. It is a single round module (with two different diameters, larger at the top and smaller at the bottom) which houses a high pressure, fully submerged fuel pump to supply the EFI fuel rail, a low pressure input with a float valve that mimics the Qjet float float and valve so you can fill it from your existing mechanical or electric fuel pump, high and low pressure gauges and a vent fitting. There is no return line to the fuel tanks required or suggested, just a vent line that I will T into the fill vent along side the fill tube. The whole thing is small enough that it mounted easily on a stock passenger side radiator bracket on my 77 using a piece of UHMW sheet for noise and vibration dampening. Took about an hour to fabricate the bracket, drill the holes and mount the unit. It sits in the air stream ahead of the radiator but off to the outlet side where it will do little to impede the air flow to either the radiator or to the external, fan assisted transmission oil cooler that I mounted on the outboard side of the radiator side air baffles. It is easy to confirm correct fuel pressure on both the high pressure EFI supply side and the low pressure surge tank fill side just by opening the passenger side hood.
Dick Patterson is off to an industry trade show where hopefully FiTech will have a booth. If so, he will talk to them about any recommended changes to the stock HEI advance system for those who want to let the distributor take care of spark control. The FiTech unit also appears to have spark control functions built in if you want to lock out the mechanical advance and let that unit control spark. I will initially have the stock HEI control spark and then see about moving to the FiTech unit controlling spark once it gets the fuel/air ratio and spark advance maps all filled in from the elevation-load and rpm data gathered during the initial drive-in period.
Dick also suggested adding a push button to let you spin the motor to pull oil up to pressure without starting before using the key to engage the EFI and start the motor after it has been sitting for a long time. He is concerned about oil drain down and bearing wear from the EFI instant start putting full compression load on the main bearings before the oil pump has a chance to bring everything up to full pressure. He characterizes the hard starting of the stock system (to pump fuel into the empty Qjet fuel bowl) as a blessing in disguise. That is easy to do by simply running 12vdc to a push button switch and from there directly to the engage post on the starter solenoid. Pressing the button will spin the starter without powering the HEI or the EFI. Once oil pressure is established then turn the key normally for an instant start with oil already in the bearings. That only would need to be done if the coach has been sitting for a long period of time (weeks or months). For normal daily use just turn the key and go.
It is raining cats and dogs outside today so not sure how eager I am to get out to the RV garage to do the install and initial drive in but will report progress. One last comment is that the packaging is really professionally done. Die cut foam to house everything inside a heavy presentation box which ships inside a shipping box filled with foam peanuts. Full color instructions for both the EFI and the Command Center. Nicely done. If it works as well as it looks it might be a good alternative for us, especially at around half the retail price of the other add-on EFI units available for our coaches. The EFI unit is $995, the Command Center is $395 and shipping was $55.
Jerry
Jerry & Sharon Work
Kerby, OR
glw...@mac.com
http://jerrywork.com
78 Royale with most everything done to modernize a GMC mechanically
77/94 Clasco bone stock (soon to have EFI) and looks like it just left the Clasco facility
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Dave it was posted on the FB page a month ago or so.
What is also very interesting is that Holley will have a similar setup for sale next year with identical price.
--
1973 26'-3 # 1460 Parrot green Seqouia Known as the Big Mean Green Machine,
And just sold my 1973 26'-2 # 581 White Canyon lands under the name Dobbelt trøbbel
in Norway
JohnL455 wrote on Thu, 10 December 2015 02:49
> I'm not getting past the design faux pas of mounting a square bore device on a spread bore Qjet manifold. That is just bad plumbing and in my mind
> would negate the gains the system provides. The primary bore would be like a NASCAR restrictor plate to the front barrels, whether they are
> progressive or in this case not. Concern would be some rich/ some lean cyls at different throttle openings Other than that the consolidation of
> wiring to onboard creates less fail points and that's good.
--
1973 26'-3 # 1460 Parrot green Seqouia Known as the Big Mean Green Machine,
And just sold my 1973 26'-2 # 581 White Canyon lands under the name Dobbelt trøbbel
in Norway
jimk wrote on Sun, 13 December 2015 01:35
> Fuel injection is no longer about fuel management only like these new
> units you all are excited about .
> When your not having full ignition timing control with some sophistication,
> then your not getting all that is required to produce power and milage.
> People like Ken Henderson,Walt Hally, and Randy Van Winkle will back me up
> on this.
> The Dynamic EFI-EBL Flash System will do more without modification at all,
> more than these units you all think is the answer.
> Ignition timing is where majority of the power and economy is, not so much
> on fuel delivery.
>
> On Sat, Dec 12, 2015 at 11:44 AM, Norman Allinson wrote:
>
> > If you are using the Fitech fuel command center, maybe just a switch in
> > the positive wire to the fuel command center, so that you can spin the
> > engine
> > with the switch off and switch on when you want it to start? This method
> > would achieve two things - first it would prime the oil system and second
> > the
> > low pressure fuel pump would top up the command center reservoir.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
> ji...@appliedairfilters.com
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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--
1973 26'-3 # 1460 Parrot green Seqouia Known as the Big Mean Green Machine,
And just sold my 1973 26'-2 # 581 White Canyon lands under the name Dobbelt trøbbel
in Norway
As I detail in that email I plan to eliminate the fuel selector valve, the electric boost pump and the mechanical fuel pump by adding an electric fuel pump to the line directly from each tank with a single pole, double throw, center off toggle switch on the dash powered through an oil pressure switch. That will provide a redundant fuel supply system, a theft deterrent with the toggle switch in the center off position and will limit the amount of fuel in the event of a wreck or rupture to just what is in the command center surge tank. Either pump will draw from both tanks up to around 35 to 40 gallons or more regardless of how much fuel transfer there is from up and down hill driving. I never want to go any further than that between fill ups anyway so that will work well for me. The existing dash mounted fuel tank selector switch will still serve to select which tank you want the fuel gauge to read.
It is snowing today so I can’t do the initial learning drive but the start up in the garage was straight forward. The coach burbled and ran rough at first but began to smooth out once the water temp got to 130 degrees F where the self learning process begins. After a few minutes of idle and a couple of stop/start cycles it was significantly better. The nice thing is there was none of that acrid unburned fuel smell that was always present on a carb cold start.
The hand held controller used to input engine parameters (no laptop or software required) is a bright, full color, touch screen device with a setting to continuously show a number of parameters real time. I will mount it on the dash with velcro and set it to read water temp, and air/fuel ratio. My manifold only has one water temp sender port so the dash water temp gauge is no longer is active without doing some additional plumbing. So far, so good.
Jerry
Jerry & Sharon Work
Kerby, OR
glw...@mac.com
http://jerrywork.com
78 Royale with most everything done to modernize a GMC mechanically
77/94 Clasco bone stock except for EFI and looks like it just left the Clasco facility
Both drive equally as well.
==================
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2015 12:44:59 -0700
From: Norman Allinson <nor...@shaw.ca>
To: gmc...@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] FiTech EFI looks like the real deal
Message-ID: <47459.5...@gmc.mybirdfeeder.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
If you are using the Fitech fuel command center, maybe just a switch in the positive wire to the fuel command center, so that you can spin the engine
with the switch off and switch on when you want it to start? This method would achieve two things - first it would prime the oil system and second the
low pressure fuel pump would top up the command center reservoir.
==================
The EFI install was easy once all the small items were at hand. I built a bracket from UHMW so the surge tank (FiTech calls it a “Fuel Command Center”) could bolt to an existing bracket that runs along the PS of the radiator. This puts it in the air stream in front of the radiator and off to the outlet side where it does little to disrupt the flow of air but should keep the fuel cool even in very hot weather. This unit is what makes this whole system work well and offers a bunch of benefits for our GMC application.
1) you can feed fuel from the tanks to this unit using the stock mechanical and/or electric fuel pump(s) since it has a float valve that mimics the stock Qjet float valve. I simply unscrewed the line from the mechanical pump to the carb, added a reverse flair union and screwed on a piece of hose to go from there to this unit. Didn’t touch anything else on the stock system so if this ever fails on the road I can unscrew the original line from that flair union and it will screw right back into the nose fitting on the carb. Unplug a couple of wire harness connectors and replace the throttle body with the carb and you are right back in business. Likely less than 1/2 hour on the side of the road to revert back to the carb if necessary.
2) When I first fired up the system the high pressure gauge was rock steady at the desired 58 psi but the input low pressure gauge fluctuated wildly due to the pulsing of the mechanical fuel pump. I never realized just how wildly that thing was pulsing fuel to the carb needle valve! What I plan to do soon is to do away with that whole mess of fuel tank selector valve, push pump to get fuel to the mechanical pump in the event of a vapor lock and the mechanical pump. In place of that I will put two small low pressure pumps (like a carter 60504), one on each tank with a check valve ahead of each pump (something like a Bosch 1587010539) and then T these together going forward using the existing lines that feed the Command Center (or the carb if needed). I will power those two pumps with a single pole, double throw, center off toggle switch with power flowing through an oil pressure switch (Holley 12-810). The existing dash tank switch will still select the tank which the gauge monitors but the separate toggle switch will select which tank is actually in use supplying fuel to the Command Center (or the carb). The center off position on the toggle switch is then a theft deterrent. The oil pressure switch on the pumps feeding the Command Center will shut those pumps off if the engine dies or is turned off. The only fuel available to feed a fire would be the fuel in the Command Center and then only if a) the key on power wire remains hot and b) the line from the Command Center to the throttle body is ruptured. There is enough fuel in the Command Center to allow the engine to start and reach oil pressure which will start the fuel pump supplying the Command Center so it all should be quite fool proof and feature a running redundant system that will work equally well with the EFi or the carb. Total cost around $150. The two pumps are about $45 each, the check valves $15 each and the oil pressure switch is less than $30.
The only time waister I experienced was not being able to get the supplied barb fittings onto the supplied Russel hose. I instead used an EFI hose from NAPA designed for all fuels including E85. Warming the ends of the hose with a heat gun softened that hose enough that with some WD40 as a lube the barb fittings went on with little issue. I made up three hoses and can supply the lengths and which fittings went where if you were to mount the Command Center in the same place and also used the Jim Bounds flex line from the mechanical fuel pump to the carb or something similar. Otherwise it is easy to figure out hoses once you have mounted the Command Center especially if you don’t care about the easy conversion back to a carb.
The other time waister was figuring out which adapter plate to use (I ultimately selected one from NAPA) and finding the right fittings to convert the EFI throttle linkage to the GMC throttle cable. The pics show the numbers for the bushing kit and stud kit that made that work. The lower part of the EFI throttle linkage had to be cut off with a hack saw to it would not hang up on our lowered intake manifold.
Other than those two things the rest of the install is very simple. The throttle body bolts right onto the adapter plate which is necessary to allow the butterfly valves to open fully without hanging up on the spread bore on the top of the intake manifold. The one I used raised the top of the throttle body up about 1/2” higher than the carb. The linkage (with the bushing and stud kits) lined up properly with the stock throttle cable and stock throttle cable mount. It is necessary to cut that stock throttle cable mount piece in half and use only one mounting bolt because of things on the back of the throttle body would would otherwise prevent that mount from being used. I will keep the cut off piece in my bag of “convert back to carb” parts if I ever need to do that. With only one mounting hole that mount can rotate unless you cut a tab to fit into the other mounting hole on the throttle body (shown in the pics).
I used a stop drill to drill the required 7/8” hole for the O2 sensor in a flat run on the exhaust pipe on one or the other side. All they say is it must be more than 15 degrees above horizontal to prevent condensation. The Clasco is running stock cast iron exhaust manifolds so the easiest one to get to was the passenger side as shown in the pics. The included band in place bung is slick and saves a trip to a muffler shop to weld it in place until you want to. As long as it does not leak I will continue to use the band in place unit.
The wiring is straight forward and the harnesses well marked. One harness plugs into the O2 sensor. One plugs into the water temp sensor. One plugs into the hand held control unit and the other is a six wire connector where one wire goes to 12vdc always on, one is key on (I used the electric choke wire to maintain that easy to revert back to carb status), one tees into the HEI distributor Tach port, one goes to the Command Center pump and one goes from the Command Center to ground. The other wires only are used if you want to control electric fans or have the ECU also control spark.
Start up is easy. Fill the Command Center before feeding 12vdc to the Command Center pump. Once the Command Center is full, then pulse the high pressure pump several times to get air out of the system. Turn the key on and use the hand held controller to enter a few engine parameters. On initial start the engine will run rough while it warms up. Once at 130 degrees water temp it begins to self learn and the engine will slowly start running more smoothly. As you drive the EFI tunes itself to find optimum settings for your load and driving style conditions. I have not yet done the drive in but can tell you that just running in the garage there is FAR less of the unburned fuel smells than I had with cold start on the carb.
The hand held controller is a bright, full color, touch screen unit that can be set to display a number of parameters real time while you are driving. I have it set to show RPM, air/fuel ratio and water temp until I have more experience with the system. BTW, my intake manifold had only one water temp sender port so the hand held display is the only way I now have of monitoring water temp. My guess is this is way more precise than the first generation Mac dash gauges in the Clasco. I am still working on finding the best place to mount that hand held unit in or around the dash. It is small enough that it should not be an issue. The only small irk is that the connecting wires plug into the top of the unit instead of the bottom making it just a bit more awkward to find a good spot.
I wanted to continue to use the stock HEI air cleaner so needed to do some testing and modification on the under side of the engine hatch cover to allow it to fit. I used Play Dough to test the clearance and a router to modify the under side of the hatch. I added foam weather stripping to the under side of the hatch and the upper side of the aluminum angle the hatch sits on to raise it enough to clear. I will run this way for a while to see how it works over the long haul. Further modifications for more clearance or more sound deadening may be required in the future. Time will tell.
Hope this helps. Let me know if I can offer anything else.
Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building in historic Kerby, OR
glw...@mac.com
http://jerrywork.com
_______________________________________________
KH
Jerry,
Great write up, as usual.
Imagine my surprise when I found just now that you're not a member of our
GMCMH-EFI Google Group! I sent you an invitation. Please join us.
At some point we need to make sure this thread gets echoed to the EFI group
since that's the primary focal point for the minority of us with an
interest in EFI. When you visit there, you'll see what I mean.
Ken H.
On Sun, Dec 13, 2015 at 11:35 AM, Gerald Work <glw...@mac.com> wrote:
> Some installation notes - taken from an email I sent a friend who is
> interested in doing this. I have not yet edited, culled or posted the
> photos on the GMC photo site, they were in the initial email. I plan to do
> a proper write up with embedded photos when I get a chance, but these notes
> may be helpful to you even without the photos:
> ...
-1 atomic conversion
-- all new
-- plug n play
I am no expert,
Just want to drive the gmc
Do what you will
On Monday, December 14, 2015, MIGUEL MENDEZ <mok...@hotmail.com
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
1. NO. Howell uses a narrow band O2 sensor. The EBL upgrade provides and
optional additional upgrade to a WB sensor. When I installed my EBL, Mr.
EBL, BobR recommended that I get everything else working well before
including the WB.
By the time I thought about using the WB, 5 years or so later, I'd
installed the WB 'way down the exhaust system, behind the Y-pipe, and was
monitoring its output on the EBL What's Up Display (WUD). Because of the
latency imposed by that O2 location, I've never chosen to utilize it for
engine control. There are reasons for that besides procrastination:
A. To decrease the response delay (latency), I'd have to move the WB
to one of the exhaust pipes nearer the engine. That would leave me
controlling based on 4 cylinders' performance and no longer monitoring all
8 in any way (as I now do personally with the WB readout).
B. The NB does a good job of controlling mixture during closed loop
operation and I don't spend enough time outside of that band to justify the
complexity of WB control.
C: The WB uses an external control unit, increasing the complexity
and inevitably reducing reliability.
D. Just ain't worth the steenkin' trouble!
2. I think a couple of the integrated units do have knock control
options, but probably no better than the "retard from pre-programmed and
try again" scheme in the original GM ECU and EBL. In other words, they
also do not try to advance the timing to an optimal level nor do they store
either a computed optimal value or "what worked the last time". So
there's apparently no improvement since the 80's or before.
JMHO,
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Mon, Dec 14, 2015 at 1:18 PM, Bill Van Vlack <bill.va...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Hi Matt,
> Just to confirm my understanding....
>
> Quote:
> > It incorporates a wide band O2 sensor, but those are not accurate or
> fast enough to do real stoichiometric control
>
>
> 1. I understand that the Howell system uses a WB02 for fuel control; what
> am I missing here?
>
> 2. It seems only the Howell/EBL system can do knock control (if you mount
> the sensor on the motor mount as I understand from the EFI board). To me,
> that seems like a good reason to choose it over any of the others.
> --
How could you not like a GMC that drives like a modern car? At this point I couldn’t be happier with the ease of the installation of this FiTech EFI system or the strongly positive impact on how the Clasco now drives. And, this after just a few miles of the EFI self learning. I understand from the factory designers that the improvements will continue over time as the system experiences more and more varied driving conditions. The software controlling the learning appears to be quite sophisticated as if you are one who wants to twiddle (not me) there is a document on the FiTech web site that describes the literally dozens of parameters you can set targets for, or modify if you want to, which will influence the learning process and the eventual running parameters. I don’t even understand what most of them would do right now. The good news is you don’t need to even go to that part of the hand held controller’s menu. The system literally will learn as you drive with no input from you other than inputting a few simple engine related questions such as displacement, the type of cam, target idle speed, etc. It remembers the most current settings it has learned and each time you start up begins from there but continues to learn, gradually reaching the point that no further minor tweaks are necessary for the kinds of driving experiences you have actually encountered. If you do encounter something new, it will learn from that new experience and constantly add to its knowledge base.
When I first fired the system it had trouble starting on its own. Once it did it settled in quickly. I fiddled with the factory set idle air controls to open the throttle valves a bit more to let in more air at cold start and that did appear to help but effected high idle when cold as you would expect. When I called the techs (who have answered the phones immediately each time and seem to be quite knowledgable) the first question was “do you have 12vdc while cranking?” I had used the choke wire from the electric choke on the old carb and had tested it for 12vdc with the key on, but never tested it during cranking. Turns out the source I used (the heater blower low speed yellow wire) was one that was dead while cranking and the FiTech unit turned off while the starter was cranking. So, it was only supplying fuel before start and after it finally got rich enough to start and I relaxed the key from the start to the run position. Self inflicted wound. As soon as I pulled voltage from a source that was hot both at key on and at crank, the system fired as soon as the key turned whether hot or cold. More on this point later.
Once I had that sorted out I then fiddled with the idle air control to try to get it back close to the factory setting. I am close, but not yet quite where I want to be. The techs walked me through the process right on the phone. Once I got that close I asked if there was anything else I needed to do. He chuckled and said something like, “just drive it and have fun, that is what all of us here do and we have our own units installed on a wide variety of our own old cars and trucks. No one said we have to, it is just that we are all gear heads and love what the system does for drivability of our older vehicles.” That is when I did my first test drive.
The results are most impressive. It looks to me like the initial settings error on the side of running too rich and then lean out as the learning progresses. Once the weather clears and after we get back from Christmas in Vancouver, BC, I look forward to tackling some of the steep grades around here. From what I can feel now I don’t expect anything but more grins when I do. The most immediate impressions are that the 455 now starts instantly hot or cold, runs much more smoothly at all RPMs hot or cold and has immediate throttle response hot or cold. I also think it runs at a bit higher vacuum and may have a bit more oomph but that is just anecdotal at this point. We plan on taking the Clasco south for the winter so by spring I should have around 5000 miles of experience with the system, and by the time of the October four club Coos Bay, OR, rally should have something around 10,000 miles on the clock. I plan to do a detailed presentation on installation tips and what I have learned about driving performance and efficiency at that rally.
That October rally is being jointly planned and put on by all four of the west coast GMC clubs - GMC Cascaders, GMC 49ers, GMC Pacific Cruisers and GMC Western States. It should be a large and bang up event. Gary and Rebecca Bovee are the rally masters and I’m sure will be providing more event details as they get set in place. It should be even larger and better than the three club rally we did there a couple of years ago. So, put a mark on your calendars and make a date with the magnificent Oregon coast next fall.
Back to the issue about where to draw system key-on power. The logical place appears to be from the battery + terminal on the bottom of the HEI distributor cap. That wire is hot both with the key on and while cranking. But, it is only an 18 gage wire so can’t carry much in the way of amperage. It is also traverses a round about path to get there. A 12 gage wire from the battery runs to the ignition switch at the bottom of the steering column and from there to a connector. From that connector it is only 18 gage to the distributor. I can read a measurable voltage drop from battery voltage to that connector on the Clasco during key on so it has to have high resistance somewhere. I also read quite a voltage sag while the starter is cranking. I am going to probe more tomorrow but likely will run a 12 gage wire from the ACCY terminal in the fuse box (which appears to be hot during start and run) out to that battery + post on the distributor to provide more and more stable voltage to the HEI distributor and the FiTech EFI during start and at run. I will let you know if that appears to make any difference. The system appears to perform just fine as it is so that key on voltage drop from battery voltage and the sag during crank may not matter much to either the HEI or the EFI.
I have no way of knowing whether all of the EFI units on the market - the self learning variety or the build or buy the tables yourself variety - would do as well or maybe even better than this FiTech system, but I continue to be impressed with the combination of apparent build quality, ease of mechanical and electrical installation, the cleanliness of the installation (lack of wires running all over the place as the only external sensors are the O2 and water temp), the helpfulness and responsiveness of the FiTech staff, the value proposition at their $1000 price point, and how very much better the driving experience is. I only have direct experience with this one system so maybe all of the EFI offerings offer a similar experience. Time will tell. Certainly it would be nice if I wind up with more apparent power or better fuel economy, but I would buy this system again just for the difference it made in the driving experience. And, for my style of driving and my expectations I don’t care if I could ring out a fraction more here or there by different spark control or some other means, what this system does on first impression is enough for me. If it proves to be as reliable as I think it will be, I will be a happy camper and looking to do the same thing to the Royale.
My guess is that by this time next year all the after market EFI systems will be at the same $1000 price point as this FiTech unit (or will be driven out of the market) and all the different makers will offer a front mounted, integrated fuel management/surge tank and submerged HP pump system as the one now offered by FiTech. And, it couldn’t come at a better time for our old GMCs as far as I am concerned.
Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building in historic Kerby, OR
glw...@mac.com
http://jerrywork.com