[GMCnet] Starting problem

[Bradford Simms]

Hi All,

I have been reading the forum for a month now and you folks help us all with
great information every day, Thanks.

Some background, I am working on a 75 Transmode, told the wife it would tale
a few weeks 2 and a bit years ago, I had big holes in both mufflers so
changed them out and started my baby for the first time in 12 months, "I
know" and she fired right up, but the right muffler was leaking at the
manifold.

Got a couple new flange gaskets and I went to test my work, now 2 weeks
later she will not start? bugger.

I used the Australian fuel injection method " pour some petrol in the carbie
mate" and she fired right up., Tossed the little filter and checked the
fuel pump which is pumping furiously. Ran a fuel line from the pump to fresh
gas , nuttin honey

I am not to good with the qudara bog , more a SU man, so not sure what to
look for , the primary opens a little when cranking and the secondaries seem
locked shut.

I was thinking I should have the unit rebuilt any ho but do you folks think
that's the issue?

Thanks to all, Brad

1975 Transmode soon back on the road.
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[Larry Davick]

My first guess is rotten rubber hoses.
Larry Davick
Ljdavick at comcast.net

On Aug 2, 2010, at 6:14 PM, Bradford Simms <bradfo...@gmail.com>
wrote:

[fred veenschoten]

Bradford Simms wrote on Mon, 02 August 2010 20:14
> Hi All,

>
>
> I used the Australian fuel injection method " pour some petrol in the carbie
> mate" and she fired right up., Tossed the little filter and checked the
> fuel pump which is pumping furiously. Ran a fuel line from the pump to fresh
> gas , nuttin honey
>
>

> Thanks to all, Brad
>
> 1975 Transmode soon back on the road.
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

i'm a little confused about what you are saying about the pump. is it elec. or mechanical? i had my elec. pump loose all its' rubber parts due to methanol gas. pump was running but not pumping.

--
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl

[Bradford Simms]

i'm a little confused about what you are saying about the pump. is it elec.
or mechanical? i had my elec. pump loose all its' rubber parts due to
methanol gas. pump was running but not pumping.

--
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl

Hi Fred,

It's a kind of new mechanical stock pump . I pulled the hose and cranked
the engine and it pumped well ? Used all new hose to draw gas from 5 gal can
so it has gas to the carb I think.

Brad

[George Beckman]

Bradford Simms wrote on Mon, 02 August 2010 18:14

> Hi All,
>
> I have been reading the forum for a month now and you folks help us all with
> great information every day, Thanks.
>

> I was thinking I should have the unit rebuilt any ho but do you folks think
> that's the issue?
>
> Thanks to all, Brad

Brad,

If it is getting gas to the carb and it is even halfway working, you should see gas squirt some down when you pump the gas pedal. You can do this by hand so you can peer down and get a better look.

They say, Gas and Spark. Because you can start it by pouring in a bit of gas, we have to assume that spark is fine and you are not getting any gas to the engine. I don't think you are ready for a rebuild yet. Stay after the no gas in the carb theory. Some of these coaches have several fuel filters. The "little one" you tossed, I assume, is the one right where the fuel line goes to the carb? There is one there and they can really clog up.
--
'74 Eleganza, SE

Best Wishes,

George

[dennis...@aol.com]

Brad,
You might try to fill the fuel bowl through the vent tube in the front of the carb -- small plastic squirt bottle should work. Otherwise, about a tablespoon of fuel into carb as you did the first time.

When you say the primaries are only opening slightly -- that may be the choke plate. The secondary air flap is vacuum operated and will not open at start or usually at all until needed. There is also a smal tang on the front right side that retains the secondary air flap until the engine is up to temperature.

Sometimes when you have drained out the fuel the mechanical pump seems to loose it's prime.

Check for any major leaks -- the hose from the pcv valve to the base of the carb, line from the emission cannister and such.

Best torque for the carb to manifold is about 9 ft-lb.

Come back and let us know how it worked.

Dennis Sexton
73 PD 230
Germantown, TN
USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Bradford Simms <bradfo...@gmail.com>
To: gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Mon, Aug 2, 2010 8:14 pm
Subject: [GMCnet] Starting problem

Hi All,
I have been reading the forum for a month now and you folks help us all with

reat information every day, Thanks.
Some background, I am working on a 75 Transmode, told the wife it would tale

few weeks 2 and a bit years ago, I had big holes in both mufflers so

hanged them out and started my baby for the first time in 12 months, "I

now" and she fired right up, but the right muffler was leaking at the

anifold.
Got a couple new flange gaskets and I went to test my work, now 2 weeks

ater she will not start? bugger.
I used the Australian fuel injection method " pour some petrol in the carbie

ate" and she fired right up., Tossed the little filter and checked the

uel pump which is pumping furiously. Ran a fuel line from the pump to fresh

as , nuttin honey
I am not to good with the qudara bog , more a SU man, so not sure what to

ook for , the primary opens a little when cranking and the secondaries seem

ocked shut.
I was thinking I should have the unit rebuilt any ho but do you folks think

hat's the issue?
Thanks to all, Brad
1975 Transmode soon back on the road.
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MCnet mailing list
ist Information and Subscription Options:
ttp://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

[fred veenschoten]

http://www.gmcws.org/Tech/quadrajet/index_files/frame.htm

this is a good explanation of the Q-jet. you need to use Internet Explorer to view it.

--
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl

[Ken Henderson]

Why? Google Chrome works just fine.

Ken H.

On Tue, Aug 3, 2010 at 8:22 AM, fred veenschoten <fred...@cox.net> wrote:

>
>
> http://www.gmcws.org/Tech/quadrajet/index_files/frame.htm
>
> this is a good explanation of the Q-jet. you need to use Internet Explorer
> to view it.
>
> --
>

[Bob de Kruyff]

""It's a kind of new mechanical stock pump . I pulled the hose and cranked
the engine and it pumped well ? Used all new hose to draw gas from 5 gal can
so it has gas to the carb I think.

Brad
""

Sounds like the float may be stuck. As someone else mentioned, open the choke plate by hand, pump the throttle and see if fuel squirts into the primary (small and front) throats. If not, the carb is probably dry. Sometimes you can loosen a stuck float by gently tapping the side of the carb with something like a plastic mallet.
--
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ

[Bradford Simms]

Brad,

If it is getting gas to the carb and it is even halfway working, you should
see gas squirt some down when you pump the gas pedal. You can do this by
hand so you can peer down and get a better look.

They say, Gas and Spark. Because you can start it by pouring in a bit of
gas, we have to assume that spark is fine and you are not getting any gas to
the engine. I don't think you are ready for a rebuild yet. Stay after the
no gas in the carb theory. Some of these coaches have several fuel filters.
The "little one" you tossed, I assume, is the one right where the fuel line
goes to the carb? There is one there and they can really clog up.
--
'74 Eleganza, SE

Best Wishes,

George

------------------------------

Message: 17
Date: Tue, 03 Aug 2010 07:22:36 -0500
From: fred veenschoten <fred...@cox.net>
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Starting problem
To: gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org
Message-ID: <170d6.4...@gmc.mybirdfeeder.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-15"

http://www.gmcws.org/Tech/quadrajet/index_files/frame.htm

this is a good explanation of the Q-jet. you need to use Internet Explorer
to view it.

--

Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl

------------------------------

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""It's a kind of new mechanical stock pump . I pulled the hose and cranked

the engine and it pumped well ? Used all new hose to draw gas from 5 gal can
so it has gas to the carb I think.

Brad
""

Sounds like the float may be stuck. As someone else mentioned, open the
choke plate by hand, pump the throttle and see if fuel squirts into the
primary (small and front) throats. If not, the carb is probably dry.
Sometimes you can loosen a stuck float by gently tapping the side of the
carb with something like a plastic mallet.
--
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ

Thank's All you Guys for the advice.

I finally had a chance to play on the GMC and Yes I have removed the filter
in the carb. So as suggested I pumped the loud peddle l and no gas is
squirting. All linkages and the accelerator pump actuating arm was moving
fine and it was making a sucking sound so I think you are all telling me the
dreaded float is stuck.

Bob suggested I give it a whack and I gave it a few but still no gas in he
picture. Is there a preferred way and place to whack the carb ? Any next
step ,or is it time to remove it.

I can have the unit rebuilt by the one of the local Hot Rod Dude's for
under $200 and I guess after 35 years it's not an extravagance , As a 75
the coach is smog exempt so I can modify it legally and given 1975 was in
the first generation smog engines would it be best to rebuild the carb stock
or ???

I just do not have the budget to go F I so if I have to stick with a
perfume squirter I would like to get the best set up. possible.

Thanks again Brad
1975 Transmode

[Charles Boyd]

Bob suggested I give it a whack and I gave it a few but still no gas in he
picture. Is there a preferred way and place to whack the carb ? Any next
step ,or is it time to remove it.

Sir: Next step would be use a real metal hammer. A sharp smack or two-three- close to the fuel inlet. Try not to hit the fuel filter housing as the threads are weak. The fuel float is behind the filter. Smack it on the side and top hard enough to shock the needle from the seat. I did a boat motor yesterday that had sat for a year. Maybe turn the engine over while you are doing it. It should work.
Good luck
--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont by Midas
East Tennessee

[Bradford Simms]

Message: 13
Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2010 21:45:11 -0500
From: Charles Boyd <covere...@comcast.net>

Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Starting problem
To: gmc...@temp.gmcnet.org

Message-ID: <17245.4...@gmc.mybirdfeeder.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-15"

Bob suggested I give it a whack and I gave it a few but still no gas in he
picture. Is there a preferred way and place to whack the carb ? Any next
step ,or is it time to remove it.

Sir: Next step would be use a real metal hammer. A sharp smack or
two-three- close to the fuel inlet. Try not to hit the fuel filter housing
as the threads are weak. The fuel float is behind the filter. Smack it on
the side and top hard enough to shock the needle from the seat. I did a
boat motor yesterday that had sat for a year. Maybe turn the engine over
while you are doing it. It should work.
Good luck
--
C. Boyd
76 Crestmont by Midas
East Tennessee

Hi Charles,

Yep that did the tick, started right up, Thanks to you and all the other
guys who took time for me.

Brad
75 Transmode in La La Land

[Johnny Bridges via Gmclist]

If the chassis battery still measures ~~14 V when you turn the keyto start (Measured at the battery posts, the cables or connections are FUBAR
somewhere. If however it drops to nothing, the battery is toast.

--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased


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[THOMAS R WHITTON]

Everyone that suggested a solution to my problem was exactly right.  Basically, check the battery cables.  The problem turned out to be a broken signal running from the auto battery.  I traced everything I could think of and removed the batteries to take them in for a good test.  The batteries tested good.  As I was putting everything back together I found the end of a connection to the signal wire laying under the coach.  It had fallen off when I disconnected the battery.  Soldered on a new end, turned the key and the engine fired without the boost switch.  Bingo!  Simple solution but hard to find.  
Thanks for the suggestions.
Tom Whitton 26 foot updated GMCPaducah, KY
Original question:Would you guys tell me where to look first for a starting problem that just reared it's ugly head.  When I turn the key to start nothing happens but the coach starts immediately using the boost switch.  I checked both batteries.  Both were fine, showing almost 14 volts.  Where do I check first?