Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
ji...@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
By the way take a look at the GMC Maintenance manual X7725. Page 4A9-4A10 says the compressor will shut off at 120 psi. Also on page 4A10 in the paragraph PRESSURE SWITCH it says " The air pressure switch is designed to maintain air pressure in the wet tank between 100 and 120 psi. Switch activates at 100 psi and opens at 120 psi.
You might want to go back to Firestone and your manufacturer of the 72000 controller and point out to them that GM used 120 psi in the bags, NOT 100 psi.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
> Hello all, I just purchased my first GMC last week. 1978 Royale rear twin
> and had a good trip back to Iowa from Wyoming (850 mi) with no issues. So
> now I have been going over everything and have found a few things that
> need attention and would appreciate any advice all you experts can give me.
> the first is I have a split cv boot on the drivers side, cv joint not
> making any noise yet.
> Is it best to R & R it with a rebuilt axle or try to remove old boot and
> replace with new boot.
> How time consuming and challenging is this job for a newbie?
Read here
http://gmcmotorhome.info/front.html#boot
> I see that some have used the split boot option with good and bad
> results.any opinions on this?
> question #2 - It has a 4 bag rear suspension, Leigh Harrison 1999 (I
> think) and the bag pressure is 110 psi on the driver side and 100 psi on the
> pass. side. does this sound normal for this system? it seems high to me,
> and do you adjust the pressure at the air compressor? it's at 112 psi
>
> any info is greatly appreciated.
> thanks, Joe
>
> --
> jwilly
> 1978 Royale rear twin
>
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--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
I personally have never used a split boot, nor do I think I would. But, if
I did, the one inviolable rule I'd follow, as I do with regular boots, is
to be sure the surface where the large end of the CV joint, where boot
fits, is absolutely clean -- NO grease residue. Same for the inside of the
boot there. That ensures that when you install the clamp, there' s a good
seal, with no boot sliding.
It's also important, IMHO, to use only double-wrap clamps. At one time
NAPA sold those clamps pre-cut; whether they still do I don't know. I buy
the "buckles" and 1/4" Band-It from McMaster-Carr and cut my own -- 37" for
the large end clamp. The small end clamp is not needed, but if it makes
you feel better, re-use a large end Band-It clamp (IF you have one).
I've had the Harrison 4-bag since 1998, with never a problem. I'm still
running the original bags after 100,000+ miles. IIRC, Leigh's
documentations specified 130 psi max. Your settings sound very
reasonable. In case you haven't heard, that system does reduce the maximum
suspension travel vs the OEM system, by about 3", IIRC.
Most Harrison systems I've seen installed follow Leigh's instructions and
mount the manifolds, with their shutoff valves and pressure gauges in the
wheel wells, often on the bag support pedestal. That, IMHO, is a BAD idea,
especially if you have the "fender skirts". Why? Because if the bags are
down, it will be impossible to get to the manifold to add air without
jacking the coach up. I moved my manifolds into the rear compartments,
right at the top of the openings where they're out of the way but easily
accessible. Possibly an added benefit is that if I ever over-inflate a bag
to failure, I won't be beside it.
JWID,
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Fri, Jul 7, 2017 at 12:33 PM, Joe williams <jwi...@netins.net> wrote:
> ...
>
> the first is I have a split cv boot on the drivers side, cv joint not
> making any noise yet.
> Is it best to R & R it with a rebuilt axle or try to remove old boot and
> replace with new boot.
> How time consuming and challenging is this job for a newbie?
> I see that some have used the split boot option with good and bad
> results.any opinions on this?
>
> question #2 - It has a 4 bag rear suspension, Leigh Harrison 1999 (I
> think) and the bag pressure is 110 psi on the driver side and 100 psi on the
> pass. side. does this sound normal for this system? it seems high to me,
> and do you adjust the pressure at the air compressor? it's at 112 psi
>
Sent from my iPhone
Emery Stora
Double-wrap clamps do require a special tool, which can be had for <$15 or
>$150. The simplest, cheapest one is fine. They're really just a simple
strip of 1/4" wide stainless steel with a special buckle to secure the
ends. When installed, the inner loop of SS provides a low-friction surface
for the outer loop to slide on as the band is tightened. That causes the
securing force to be applied perpendicular to the rubber, preventing
"puckering". Ordinary single-wrap clamps tend to move the rubber parallel
to the clamp, causing it to bunch up and create leakage-ways. Also, the
buckles are very low profile so there's less danger of them striking fixed
objects.
If you have to buy bulk band and buckles, it's a little expensive, but
you'll find a lot of uses for them besides CV boots, making the average
cost per use very reasonable. Here's my source:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#hose-banding/=18erplk
Band: 5422K53
Buckles: 5422K67
Tool: http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=164
or: https://www.napaonline.com/p/SER30950 (you may have to search for
that PN)
NAPA used to carry #3415 for the small clamp and 3416 for the large on, or
3401 for a 10-clamp kit. I no longer find those on line.
If you're forced to use one of the more popular "squeeze to lock"
single-wrap clamps, I'd recommend lubricating the inside of the clamp to
minimize puckering.
Ken H.
On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 9:20 AM, Joe williams <jwi...@netins.net> wrote:
> ...
>
> Ken, what is a double wrap clamp? do I need to get a special tool to use
> them?
>
...
On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 11:07 AM, Ken Henderson <hend...@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
Ken H.
On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 2:17 PM, Bruce Hart <hart...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Ken
> Put a UJ in front of the clamp number. Last fall I bought a box of 10 from
> my Napa Store.
> Now try to find an inner cv boot for the drive shaft.
> UJ3416
> UJ3415
> https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UJQUJ3416
>
> On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 11:07 AM, Ken Henderson <hend...@bellsouth.net>
> wrote:
> ...
> > NAPA used to carry #3415 for the small clamp and 3416 for the large on,
> or
> > 3401 for a 10-clamp kit. I no longer find those on line.
Example, if I want to look up Optima batteries I would click on Parts and
Accessories, than electrical, followed by sub-category batteries. Now I
put Optima in search panel and get the listing of what Optima batteries are
available.
By the way the UJ stands for u-joint. Who would have thought!
On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 2:46 PM, Ken Henderson <hend...@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class