Poured 10 gallons of the 15 gallons of gas drained from the tanks back
into the tanks. But I could not get the engine to start back up again.
Turned it over for quite a while and drained the battery. It has been
charging overnight and I will try again late afternoon or this evening.
I can understand that it can take a good amount of effort to get the gas
back up to the engine given that the lines were emptied out and such.
But that got me thinking if there was a priming procedure when the tanks
have been emptied.
Any other thoughts of what I should do or could have missed?
Thanks.
--
Gerard Hickey / WTØF IRLP:3067/Echolink:529661
hic...@kinetic-compute.com DMR: 3102272
425-395-4554
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Gerard Hickey / WTØF IRLP:3067/Echolink:529661
hic...@kinetic-compute.com DMR: 3102272
425-395-4554
On 9/16/19 12:55 PM, Tom Newell via Gmclist wrote:
> Hi Gerald,
>
> In order of ease for pulling the fuel through the lines, these will work.
>
> 1. A Facet style inline fuel pump wired with alligator clips to attache to the battery. (Long wires, safety procedures, etc.; sparks and gasoline,
> well you know). Versions of these pumps are available in different brands, etc. at every auto parts store (well, most every, I guess).
>
> A representative example:
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BM6G6O/ref=psdc_15728151_t3_B000P4W2AW
>
>
> 2. A hand transfer pump. This is, I suppose, the easiest to set up, as they come with a conical adapter you can jam into a rubber hose. Takes more
> physical effort of course.
>
> Cheap, works fine:
> https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html
>
>
> 3. A hand vacuum pump with a brake bleeding reservoir. These work fine and are easy to set up; it is also quite easy to get carried away and suck the
> gas into the pump itself.
>
> A vacuum pump is a very useful tool (works as a vacuum gauge too), and this is quite a decent one for the money.
> https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Tom Newell
> San Pedro, California
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Due to the common tank filling tube arrangement most of the gas that goes into the fill tube is carried by inertia to the rear (aka “main”) tank and the front tank doesn’t get an equal amount. My guess is that with 15 gallons poured in you might get 12 gal in the rear and 3 in the front. The tanks will only equalize their level via the common fill tube once one of them reaches about 2/3 full.
Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
I pumped for several minutes and could never get any vacuum to form. I
also sucked on the line a bit and could taste just a bit of vapor.
Plugged the hose back in and the engine started after a turn over or
two. Let it run for a couple of mins and it stalled eventually. I figure
it just was not getting enough fuel. I also did not try to switch tanks
and see if it would keep running.
I can believe that 15 gallons is a good amount to have in the tank and
get the gas line primed. Seems that with the 10 gallons I have in there
now is just enough.
Thanks for everybody's help and thoughts.
--
Gerard Hickey / WTØF IRLP:3067/Echolink:529661
hic...@kinetic-compute.com DMR: 3102272
425-395-4554
On 9/17/19 7:10 AM, Jon Roche via Gmclist wrote:
> the couple times I have done he gas tanks on coaches. it always took 15 gallons to get it to start. so I would pour a 3rd 5 gallon gas can in the
> tank, and I bet it will pump the fuel and fire off.
>
> I have always installed an electric pump on the aux side when I have done tanks, so that helped prime, but seems to take 15 gallons for some odd
> reason.
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