cut PVC pipe down the middle

[GRB352]

I need to cut a peice of PVC long ways down the middle. Not all the way in half, just enough to cut one wall of the tube.

I am thinking I need to 3d print a jig for my tablesaw, but I was wondering if anyone had any other ideas.

[Frank]

How long and what diameter is the PVC you are trying to cut? I have successfully cut PVC like you are describing using a table saw with a rip fence so I know it can be done. Of course, watch your fingers.

Frank



Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 22, 2015, at 6:18 PM, GRB352 <gregoryro...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I need to cut a peice of PVC long ways down the middle. Not all the way in half, just enough to cut one wall of the tube.
>
> I am thinking I need to 3d print a jig for my tablesaw, but I was wondering if anyone had any other ideas.
>

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[Jason Monsorno]

I've used a Rockwell tablesaw which is basically a table mounted jigsaw,
a bit less ferocious but I've done split cuts, full through in half, and
even removing sections with just the rip fence.

I'd agree with Frank, basically safety first but you should be able to
just go for it if it's like <= 1 1/4". Past that you should (more likely
have to) do two cuts, if you can clamp down a piece of say 2x4 as your
fence, you can then reuse the same fence for distance but attach devices
for orientation/rotation guide on second cut. 3d printed is nice and
fancy but might be overkill and not sturdy enough, a few scrap pieces of
metal bent with a few angles to hold your previous cut line and secured
to the 2x4 fence should be accurate enough to sit flat.

Curious to see what you come up with, take pics.

>https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gainesville-hackerspace/20161512-8A0D-47D2-8149-E06DC0E52CF8%40gmail.com.

[GRB352]

2" diameter, and I need 3 ~12" sections from a 5ft piece.

Sounds like table saw it is ;-)

[Daniel Crews]

I'd always planned to cut pvc with a a hot wire cutter - with the caveat that I've never actually gotten around to trying it. But I seem to recall looking up material information and deciding it would work if you get the temperature above melting but below burning ;).

On Sat, Aug 22, 2015 at 11:12 PM, GRB352 <gregoryro...@gmail.com> wrote:

2" diameter, and I need 3 ~12" sections from a 5ft piece.

Sounds like table saw it is ;-)

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Fin

[Joseph DiPietro]

A router table might be a better choice if you can stand the additional lost material.

To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/gainesville-hackerspace/CABaqBhEpvzZJ_D5dt02yhck360LxVxbPFuELJhabQ%2BSta5mhBA%40mail.gmail.com.

[Allen Rout]

3 feet of cut material from a I of stock should be straight forward. You can cut the PVC like any wood, so long as you are confident of the orientation of the work piece as you push it through. If hold of it at one end to keep it from spinning, that should be fine. One other thing that will be important is the speed of the blade in the cut. It will be easy to mount or burn the plastic instead of cutting it. My shop Smith can go slower than his usual for table saw...

This entire message was dictated to Google I wonder how it went.

[Daniel Evenson]

Hot wire might not work that well.
The melted material will probably just fuse back together if you don't remove it somehow.

-Dan


Daniel Evenson deve...@pathwaysystems.com
CTO Pathway Systems 121 S. Orange Ave. Suite 1500
(800) 258-5339 Orlando FL 32801

On 8/22/15 10:45 PM, Daniel Crews wrote:
>
> I'd always planned to cut pvc with a a hot wire cutter - with the caveat that I've never actually gotten around to trying it. But I seem to recall looking up material information and deciding it would work if you get the temperature above melting but below burning ;).
>

> On Sat, Aug 22, 2015 at 11:12 PM, GRB352 <gregoryro...@gmail.com <mailto:gregoryro...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> 2" diameter, and I need 3 ~12" sections from a 5ft piece.
>
> Sounds like table saw it is ;-)
>
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>
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>
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>
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[GRB352]

This is what I have so far. I need a similar piece for the other end, and maybe one for the middle. The flat part with the holes goes on the table saw's...slidy-straighty-thing, right where those two bolt heads are, unfortunately those two bolts are in so tight I can't unscrew them, so I added two holes between them for two self-tapping screws.

  

[GRB352]

On Sunday, August 23, 2015 at 1:45:43 AM UTC-4, Daniel Crews wrote:

I'd always planned to cut pvc with a a hot wire cutter - 

We'll call that method, "the fun way" ;-)

PVC fumes are bad mmmmmkay 

[GRB352]

On Sunday, August 23, 2015 at 6:30:23 AM UTC-4, Joe DiPietro wrote:

A router table might be a better choice if you can stand the additional lost material.

CVK left his up at the hackerspace for Liza to hack with, but with my luck I'l get into a wild router-bit hunt.  would probably still need to design/print a jig. Losing some material would actually be beneficial, I don't plan on trying that on the bandsaw with multiple cuts.

This will make a good plan B, but I think the tablesaw+jig is going to work out 

[GRB352]

On Sunday, August 23, 2015 at 8:53:10 AM UTC-4, Allen Rout wrote:

One other thing that will be important is the speed of the blade in the cut. It will be easy to mount or burn the plastic instead of cutting it. My shop Smith can go slower than his usual for table saw...

 I don't think my simple table-saw has more than just the "fast and loud" speed. I will hope for the best and give it a shot tonight. Unfortunately, if it doesn't work out and I need to beg some of your tablesaw time again my jig wont fit your table. 

If speed is an issue, maybe I should of made a "pipe rider" for my dremel tool.

[Randy Fischer]

On Sun, Aug 23, 2015 at 4:58 PM, GRB352 <gregoryro...@gmail.com> wrote:

This is what I have so far. I need a similar piece for the other end, and maybe one for the middle. The flat part with the holes goes on the table saw's...slidy-straighty-thing, right where those two bolt heads are, unfortunately those two bolts are in so tight I can't unscrew them, so I added two holes between them for two self-tapping screws.

Why not slip on two 90 degree joints on each end,  then abut them on the fence.

Or,  build a cradle, two parallel 1x1s,  join them with cross pieces farther apart than the tube is long (you'd play around here getting the pipe depth right).   A few nails along the edges, and you can fasten some shockcord or rubber tube to hold the pipe... heck, waitta sec..


​

[GRB352]

Nice diagram! really gets the point across. I will put some of that to good use!

On Sunday, August 23, 2015 at 5:34:12 PM UTC-4, Randy Fischer wrote:

​

[GRB352]

Here is a question. 

Should I cut the pieces to length before cutting one side open. or cut side for the whole pipe and then try to cut each length with the pipe split?

[Randy Fischer]

On Sun, Aug 23, 2015 at 8:26 PM, GRB352 <gregoryro...@gmail.com> wrote:

Should I cut the pieces to length before cutting one side open. or cut side for the whole pipe and then try to cut each length with the pipe split?

Well I'll weigh in.   If you have to do a plunge cut to get started, I'd do one long piece, otherwise,  short pieces for control and so that if you find it isn't doing what you want (what are you using these for again?) you have only one piece of scrap.

[Robert Burns]

Yeah I don't have much wood laying around. It seems like one cut is going to be a pain one way or the other. I think it will be easier to tape the pipe shut while I cut it horizontally, rather than trying to keep the long cut straight multiple times on a short pipes.

I'm going to use one for each leg of the 3 towers, so I can spray the print bed without getting bed adhesive (hairspray) on my belts. 

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[Robert Burns]

Thanks for all the advice guys.

This worked out pretty well. spreading the pvc a bit after I spilt it was more difficult than I thought, so I had to make two cuts. I guess with the proper router bit this could be done in one cut.

I'll post one more set of pics after I finish the rest of the parts of this project in a couple days.

 
​

 

  

​ 

On Sun, Aug 23, 2015 at 4:58 PM, GRB352 <gregoryro...@gmail.com> wrote:

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[Robert Burns]

[Jason Monsorno]

Two thoughts:

1: That is a fairly wide gap so this may not work for you but you can stack and space a few blades on a table saw for doing wider cuts. Make sure you can always secure the nut tight and have a decent balance before putting under any load a.k.a. cutting. They also sell dado sets for this purpose if you can justify the tool budget.

2: For the amount of plastic you printed for 3 total feet of pipe, I might have been easier and cheaper just to print the partial tube you needed, that's me being picky and assuming that your jig won't be reused but hopefully spark food for thought to other before diving in too deep when a simpler solution may be present.

3: Yes 3, I'm no going back to change my "two thoughts". Looks good, great job and thanks for the pictures.

On Tue, Aug 25, 2015 at 12:05 AM, Robert Burns <gregoryro...@gmail.com> wrote:

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[Frank]

I think the jigs are over complicating a simple cut. As I recall you wanted to make a single cut down a 12" long tube. What was the diameter of the pipe you wanted to cut? Let me know what your dimensions are and I'll make a test cut on my saw at home.

Frank

Sent from my iPad

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[Frank]

I have some large split loom tube that may work better for what you're trying to do.

Frank

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 23, 2015, at 9:08 PM, Robert Burns <gregoryro...@gmail.com> wrote:

Yeah I don't have much wood laying around. It seems like one cut is going to be a pain one way or the other. I think it will be easier to tape the pipe shut while I cut it horizontally, rather than trying to keep the long cut straight multiple times on a short pipes.

I'm going to use one for each leg of the 3 towers, so I can spray the print bed without getting bed adhesive (hairspray) on my belts. 

<3_27_15 - 2>

On Sun, Aug 23, 2015 at 8:57 PM, Randy Fischer <randy....@gmail.com> wrote:

On Sun, Aug 23, 2015 at 8:26 PM, GRB352 <gregoryro...@gmail.com> wrote:

Should I cut the pieces to length before cutting one side open. or cut side for the whole pipe and then try to cut each length with the pipe split?

Well I'll weigh in.   If you have to do a plunge cut to get started, I'd do one long piece, otherwise,  short pieces for control and so that if you find it isn't doing what you want (what are you using these for again?) you have only one piece of scrap.

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[GRB352]

On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 9:29:32 PM UTC-4, Frank Lowry wrote:

I think the jigs are over complicating a simple cut. As I recall you wanted to make a single cut down a 12" long tube. What was the diameter of the pipe you wanted to cut? Let me know what your dimensions are and I'll make a test cut on my saw at home.

2" diameter. either 1 long cut down 5 ft pipe, or cut to shorter (~9-12 inches) segments and then split...seemed easier to do the long cut first. 

Making the jigs was kinda complicated, using wood/bungee cord would have been easier. but I think the crafted jig touching on all sides was better for keeping it straight and preventing the blade from kicking the pipe up/back

I'm going to try these on one printer, and I might have enough split pipe to do a 2nd printer. And I am set if I need to make more.

Eddie suggests that I add a 3d printed cone to my hairspray instead of putting up splatter/mist guards...that sounds a lot easier.

I have some large split loom tube that may work better for what you're trying to do.

Thanks! I would like to check that out. Maybe you can show me when we get together for some robot welding sometime soon ;-)

[GRB352]

On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 12:14:28 AM UTC-4, Jason Monsorno wrote:

Two thoughts:

1: That is a fairly wide gap so this may not work for you but you can stack and space a few blades on a table saw for doing wider cuts. Make sure you can always secure the nut tight and have a decent balance before putting under any load a.k.a. cutting. They also sell dado sets for this purpose if you can justify the tool budget.

 

I know this would work on a shopsmith, I will check my cheapy tablesaw out if I need to make more of these. This would remove the need for multiple cuts, and get me a much more even gap.

 

2: For the amount of plastic you printed for 3 total feet of pipe, I might have been easier and cheaper just to print the partial tube you needed, that's me being picky and assuming that your jig won't be reused but hopefully spark food for thought to other before diving in too deep when a simpler solution may be present.

 

I probably used less than $4 in filament, including the several test pieces I tossed. I could make an entirely 3d print a piece to do this, but I try to use 3d printing for what it is best for, and other methods when I think they are best. If I need a large flat part, I CNC cut it on the router out of something that is already flat.  When I need special shapes, or to prototype something I 3d print it. Even when I design things to be 3d printed, I like to make my designs as multi-media as I can. sometimes I use wood dowels connected to 3d printed parts, this time will use a cut pvc pipe connected to 3d printed parts ;-)

 

3: Yes 3, I'm no going back to change my "two thoughts". Looks good, great job and thanks for the pictures.

cool man, I'm glad you enjoyed it. I'm usually too lazy to document what I'm working on. 

[Brian Bartholomew]

Shopsmith should be ready to go soon, and has variable speed which I
find cuts PVC pipe great at about 1/3 of wood speed. However table
saw is their weakest function, they have a tiny and bendy saw table,
especially the older models.

Given there is a real table saw I would strongly prefer it unless wood
RPM stirred plastic into mush rather than cutting it.

Brian

[Robert Burns]

A wasp stung me on the arm, which broke my hacksaw for a few days. But I finally got a chance to finish cutting these.

Now I can spray hairspray on that mirror with out the fans blowing it all over those timing belts. If you haven't see one of these printers going at HS here is a video that shows those belts moving.

https://youtu.be/cWCYXj6FGT8

I used a holesaw to put a little extra arm room. I need to work on making this cut cleaner if I decide to put these on more printers.

 

A test piece to to see if it would interfere with the hot ends movements at the edge and then to see how tall I could make them and not bump the arms. 9" each.

I'm happy with how these turned out, but it still might just be easier to add something to the spray bottle to keep the spray contained.

All pictures

PVC belt protectors. 17 photos

​

[Christopher Hoffman]

So I was watching SV Seeker, a youtuber whose building a 72 ft boat in his backyard, when I saw him cut a piece of steel tubing on his table saw: 

https://youtu.be/Q7ztbfBrTJ8?t=1145

He clamped the tube to a piece of square tubing, and then ran it over the table saw.

[GRB352]

Good find! they really made it simple. Before I made the cut, I had a misconception on how ridged a cut PVC pipe would be and never would have thought that would work. But it would have worked fine.

I hear the other space has a tubing cutter for welding prep.  It's a metal bracket to hold tubing while a hole saw cuts it at an angle, I bet it would have made my hole-cutting much cleaner.

[Brian Bartholomew]

I hear the other space has a tubing cutter for welding prep. 
It's a metal bracket to hold tubing while a
hole saw cuts it at an angle, I bet it would have made my
hole-cutting much cleaner.

http://www.harborfreight.com/pipe-tubing-notcher-42324.html or thereabouts.

Brian