3d printing advice - prints lifting...off raft

[Justin Richeson]

Hello all.  I'm finally coming out of near total maker hibernation and got my hands on a 3d printer!  It's an M3D (standard) and I'm having a small bit of trouble.  I'm trying to print an enclosure for a home automation module I created but I'm having a problem with the print lifting at the corners.  I tried direct, and now today I tried with a raft.  The first attempt was with the printer stock.  Since then I've moved to the iMe 3rd party firmware and octoprint + M33 fio plugin (for this printer).  Added gluestick to the bed...the raft held nicely, but the bottom of the enclosure lifted after a couple of layers.  Printing clear ABS-R @ 240F.  No heated bed.  Buildtak on the bed.

Also, not sure why, but it's skipping the first couple G0 lines that set the extruder to the start point, so it was starting at the edge of the bed and then printing diagonal to the 2nd point of the model.  I fixed that by adding a G1 line with really low extrusion...and I threw in a test G0 line in the first layer and it picked that up fine (to be sure it wouldn't miss later G0's).

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Don Cady]

no response? well, there is 3d printing meetup tonight...

Don

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[Zeke Egherman]

Could be bed levelling. Print something like my bed level test (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2795506) and find out.

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[Ray Scheufler]

I meant to respond but it fell off the top of my list.

Not sure about your g code issuse. That will probably require some face to face time to debug. 

Your curling could be a tricky challenge. ABS shrinks as it cools which causes warping on the first layer. The normal mechanism to combat this is to heat the bed, limiting the cooling and contraction. You can also try to combat this with a 'sticky' enough bed. Common ways to improve the stick include stick glue, hair spray, and other bed coatings. The most aggressive I know of is a thin coating of ABS slurry which is ABS mixed with acetone. 

The other potential solution is mechanical. Increasing raft size increases surface area which increases stick. You also need to ensure that your bed is coplanar with your movement. You want to have the nozzle at a consistent height off the bed for the entire first layer to get it to stick well. Your first layer height also matters, too high and bad adhesion, too low and no first layer / risk gumming up the extruder grinding a groove.

Not sure if any of this is new / helpful but hopefully it sparks an idea.

Ray Scheufler 

On Tue, Mar 20, 2018, 4:08 AM Zeke Egherman <ze...@egherman.com> wrote:

Could be bed levelling. Print something like my bed level test (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2795506) and find out.

On Mar 19, 2018 5:34 PM, "Don Cady" <don...@gmail.com> wrote:

no response? well, there is 3d printing meetup tonight...

Don

On Mar 9, 2018 8:59 PM, "Justin Richeson" <neoma...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hello all.  I'm finally coming out of near total maker hibernation and got my hands on a 3d printer!  It's an M3D (standard) and I'm having a small bit of trouble.  I'm trying to print an enclosure for a home automation module I created but I'm having a problem with the print lifting at the corners.  I tried direct, and now today I tried with a raft.  The first attempt was with the printer stock.  Since then I've moved to the iMe 3rd party firmware and octoprint + M33 fio plugin (for this printer).  Added gluestick to the bed...the raft held nicely, but the bottom of the enclosure lifted after a couple of layers.  Printing clear ABS-R @ 240F.  No heated bed.  Buildtak on the bed.

Also, not sure why, but it's skipping the first couple G0 lines that set the extruder to the start point, so it was starting at the edge of the bed and then printing diagonal to the 2nd point of the model.  I fixed that by adding a G1 line with really low extrusion...and I threw in a test G0 line in the first layer and it picked that up fine (to be sure it wouldn't miss later G0's).

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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