Max V2 hot end is kicking off.
Chris Johnson
Ray Scheufler
I finished a calibration print, and then another print. Restarted printer (having no problems) and upon restart, the hot end heats and thn randomly the screen says "DEC".
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Chris Johnson
Don Cady
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Ray Scheufler
No. It is down for maintenance.
Ray Scheufler
Ray Scheufler
We swapped power supplies because the one in it was very warm. That fixed it for a while but later Chris reported that it still was decoupling. I don't know what is wrong. I'm going to contact seemecnc support tomorrow to see if they have any ideas.
Observations of the issue:
Chris initially reported that toward the end of a print there was some blobbing of filament like during part of the layer the hot end was not up to temp. When I got to the space today, I was unable to heat the hot end and bed together, it would cause a decoupling. I poked around and found that one of the power wires going to the Rambo was loose (fell out when I tugged on it) so I reinserted it and tightened down. After that I tried heating only the hot end and was able to do that fine but if I started heating the bed it would decouple. Some googling revealed that the printer would output a useful message over serial when it decoupling. I repeated the experiments a few times and got varying results. One decoupling happened because the bed did not heat enough over an amount of time. Another decoupling would happen when the hot end was up to temp and the bed was heated, something would happen to drop the hot end temperature, the Rambo would respond by turning the output to full but the hot end would still be dipping. I'm not sure if it would have recovered but it would decouple before it got a chance.
Eventually I realized that I hadn't heard the jet engine of a fan kick on. From that I decided to feel the power supply. It was rather warm. I jumped to the conclusion that the power supply was going bad. Chris had a spare supply all wired up so we swapped it in. After swapping power supplies I was able to heat the bed and hot end a few times without incident but eventually after I left, Chris reported that he had started a print but the bed would not heat all the way to 95, it would get stuck at 90. He got it heated all the way with the hot air gun but during the print he noticed that the hot end temperature was swinging wildly and eventually it decoupled.
That was a bit of a wall of text. Chris feel free to correct anything if I have written it incorrectly.
As I typed this, I had another idea to try. Perhaps we need to redo the pic calibration on the hot end. It could be turning too low and letting it get under temp before applying power and the decoupling logic isn't giving it enough time to recover. That would not explain the bed not getting to temperature but I have never had much luck getting the bed to 95.
I am busy tomorrow evening. I will try to come up with ideas and tests to do on Tuesday.
Ray Scheufler
That Kid
I would recommend opening up the PSU and adjusting the output to be as close to 13-14 volts as you can. I found a guide to do this if you dont know what to do. I dont have access to it right now though.
SeeMe has a new hotened out thats mostly metal (only a teflon liner that goes into the heaterblock) that ditches the heating resistors for a single cartridge heater. It also gets rid of the RTV. Its a pretty great design from what I can tell. It would solve the hotend heating problems.
Besides the above, make sure the base has adequate cooling and maybe try insulating the bed from the base. Someone on the smc forums used aero gel but you can use fiberglass or something
Ray Scheufler
We are using server power supplies instead of atx supplies. Adjusting the voltage will speed up the heating slightly. It is probably worth trying.
I'm not sure if I want to go to the effort of swapping the hit end. I don't think that it is the problem.
Ray Scheufler
That Kid
Im aware, Im talking about those. I know of no way to vadjust a pc power supply (though I havent used them much)
You should be able to get about 30 extra watts of power to the bed if you can bump up the voltage enough (I calculated this using 11.7V vs 12.7V and a bed resistance of 1 ohm). It should improve both heat times and max temp.
I would highly recommend the hotend upgrade. I could never get my buda to stay at temp target and it uses a power resistor like the smc hotend. I swapped it out with a jhead with a cartridge and if I really wanted to I could melt the snot out of the heaterblock with it.
Theres so many neat things they added with the new effector design. Theres an accelerometer probe (auto radius and endstop calibration), new fan duct design (3 radial fans), the probe board doubles as a connection board, the new hotend has an inline thermal fuse to prevent temp faults (to keep that cartridge from causing damage), and a few other features I cant remember off the top of my head. The one down side is the new effector is only compatible with the new ball cup arms so if you upgrade the effector you have to upgrade the arms and carriages too. You could buy just the probe board and the hotend and they should be compatible with the old effector though.