As requested

[Brad Stansell]

 

 

 

Bill requested I post some pics of my 'rig' so here they are.  As you can see I have plenty of parts.  It's simply fitting them all together that's become the challenge.  

 

 

 

[bill]

Walk me through the issues you are having.  Iirc you are experiencing 

1. Leakage of filament at the hot end 

2. Temp control issues 

3. I see a lot of scrapes in the tape - looks like you have bed level issues?

4. X carriage movement issues 

What are you going to change / fix by going to a bowden setup? Just looking to lighten the weight on the couch carriage?

I see multiple hot end parts. what hotends have you used and what's up with them presently?

Bowden setups are sometimes a little tricky to get right. They work well but you will see a few different issues getting started and tuned. Switching from direct feed to bowden may give you more to debug 

Replacing melted or warped parts is very important.  Are there other parts you need replaced? 

The x carriage you linked to looks decent assuming the bearings are good and you are using the correct linear rails. Do you see any scaring or marks on the rail? How smoothly does the car move?

Bill Schwanitz

If A is a success in life, then A equals x plus y plus z. Work is x; y is play; and z is keeping your mouth shut. - Albert Einstein.

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[Brad Stansell]

1. Yes. 
2. Not so much now, but I suspect they may be slightly mis-calibrated.  My bed takes forever to get up to 65C. 
3. yes, very much so.  Each print is a fight for calibration on the first few layers.  Which is why I bought the inductive sensor for the z-axis.
4. I wouldn't say movement issues, more along the lines of space issues.  As I've mentioned, the carriage I have places the motor on the right side which then buts up against my frame. 

The bowden setup would (hopefully) allow me to place the nozzle in a more centered position on the carriage while allowing me room to also place my inductive sensor.  Also, the tungsten-disulfide shaft I purchased is made for a bowden configuration.

The hot ends seem to work fine, aside from some leakage issues (which are probably my fault for not securing/calibrating it properly), they don't seem to be much of an issue.  I just connected the tungsten nozzle last night and I have to say, it's awesome.  The filament flows through it like butter. 

The bearings I currently have attached to the carriage are great.  They're actually much better than the other linear bearings I have.

You'd be more than welcome to come and hang out tomorrow.  I live on the East side in Reynoldsburg/Pickerington.  E-mail me and I can send you my address if you're up for it.     

[Bill Schwanitz]

I would recommend you focus more on getting good clean prints, get the bed truly level ( before you go z probe - that just helps with on the fly fine tuning imo ). Get the extruder steps process down and get some repeatable prints going ( eg print the same thing a few times without changing anything at all )

Loosing a bit of X real estate sorta sucks but compared to the changes you are thinking about - I’d go the tuning route for a bit ;)

I would re-do the tape on the glass and go through the *manual* bed leveling. Looks like you have a 4-point leveling system on the bed. Its been a while but iirc you get the middle of the bed leveled and then just manually move X and Y around adjusting as necessary. You should be able to just slide a piece of paper under the nozzle with a little bit of friction all the way around the bed.

I have the bowden stuff queued / printing. I had some issues with my bed moving just a little bit ( enough to screw up the prints ;( ) - speed kills!

[Brad Stansell]

I’ve made some progress here, the oozing isn’t as much of a deal since I tightened up and tied down the hot end.  I’ve started experimenting with Cura instead of Slic3r with some promising results.  I am, however still experiencing some annoying curling issues toward the edges of these prints regardless of the slicer.  ABS is pretty much out of the question at this point since I’m running on a 12V power supply and can’t really heat my bed past 80C, and 90C if I wait an extra hour.  I’ve been told I need to heat  it upwards of 120C so I went ahead and ordered a 24V power supply that should be here by tomorrow.  

So anyway, I am starting to get some semi-decent prints with Cura. I’ve replaced the ripped up klapton tape with a new sheet.  I still need to install some endstops I have lying around and figure out what a decent speed for travel is so my machine doesn’t shake itself apart.  I also have some grinding issues with the timing belts but those are easily enough fixed.  

I’ll go ahead and calibrate it manually and let you know how much it helps.  

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Brad Stansell
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[Bill Schwanitz]

re ABS - yea thats typical. I have a love hate relationship with ABS ;) Getting an enclosure for the printer can help - something along the lines of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:55065 but be careful to not over-heat things ;)

re speeds, what are you using for print and non-print speeds? I would recommend printing at 20-30 mm/sec range and set your non-print movement speeds down around 100 or lower.

You can look at my old marlin config. Note the marlin version I was running on there is probably pretty old so it may not line up with your config positionally.

https://github.com/bilsch/3d_printer_configs/blob/master/marlin/Configuration.h#L565-L570

You should be able to issue M commands to change these live. 

My go-tos:

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M106:_Fan_On

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M107:_Fan_Off

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M119:_Get_Endstop_Status

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M202:_Set_max_travel_acceleration ( not used in marlin but good to know of )

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M203:_Set_maximum_feedrate ( set this… it’ll help your shaking! )

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M204:_Set_default_acceleration

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M210:_Set_homing_feedrates

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M303:_Run_PID_tuning

http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M503:_Print_settings

If you have not already done so run and save your PID tuning. That will help with your bed temps and also with extrusion ( you will likely notice the temps fluctuate if you have not done this )

https://github.com/bilsch/3d_printer_configs/tree/master/slic3r are my old slicer configs. Note these are very old so ;) Reference but don’t just copy and run them.

One thing I noticed with cura on z moves, it will issue the axis movements with crazy high feed rates and cause stepper motors to squeal. Configuring those max feed rate settings will be very important ( and iirc you can’t restrict the layer change speed in cura )

Set your feed rates low and work your way up. Get things printing smoothly on lower feed rates ( yes, its like watching paint dry I know ;) )

You can also play some games with your start gcode and play with different values until you find what is right - then put it in the Configuration.h and / or eprom. I *highly* recommend getting your configuration.h file synced up just in case you fry the board ;) Also lets you switch slicer software without worrying

Bill

[Brad Stansell]

Repetier had a great calibration thanks to its web tool but Marlin just wants to be a speed demon.  I’ve actually been considering building a similar web tool once I fully understand Marlin, but that may never happen.  

I found this video and was actually considering simplify3d once I can afford it.  I was running some of my own tests generating a brim on both slic3r and cura and Slic3r just went nuts.  I’ll give your settings a shot and see what happens.  

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Brad Stansell
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