Nick C Re:Rudder..now drive train

[Stephen Brady]

Will be looking at the tube later today to see is it was cut through also. Shaft log threads are deformed. When you purchased your 00stbo125, was it internally threaded? if so, then your drive train is different from mine, correct?

I haven't been able to upload pics yet....

Stephen

Nick C

Mar 14 (16 hours ago)

Re: [caborico] Rudder

Stephen,

Was the shaft log leaking around where it connects to the housing?

If you're removing the housing to replace the bearing it's unnecessary.

Is there still a suitable amount of thread on the housing for the shaft log to adequately grab so that it is securely attached to the housing? If you're concerned that the shaft log may work free, it's very unlikely. You could  tab it into the hull if necessary.

If the assembly is still structurally sound and the shaft log is securely attached a minor nick or slight deformation at the end of a few of the threads may not be a concern.

If you have the housing out you may be able to have a short coupler made up. Have one side threaded internally and the other end external, just keep the  thread directions oriented properly. Once the coupler is threaded onto the housing you could bond or weld it permanently to the housing if you think more structural support is needed.  That would give you a clean threaded area to attach the shaft log to. You would just have to measure the shaft log and cut it to the proper length.

If necessary finding a new shaft log shouldn't be too difficult as is having it properly threaded. 

Some plumbing supply houses have the set up for threading large diameter pipe.

Getting a new bearing housing and shaft log isn't out of the question it just may require some additional glass work and accurate alignment. I'd be inclined to explore the other options if your current setup is still in serviceable condition.

I don't know if any of this helps. Send a photo of you can.

Nick

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[N C]

Stephen,

My housing is the original that came with the boat (2005) and 

our drive trains probably are different. My stern tube is 

about 5 feet long since the engine is mounted under

the galley sink which is a few feet forward of the companionway.

The first time I replaced my cutlass bearing I was going to 

remove the housing (totally unnecessary). My fear was 

spinning the housing mounting bolts that were bedded into

the hull. The other one was creating a problem similar to what 

you're experiencing.

It sounds like your options are limited if you can't satisfactorily 

re-mount the tube to the housing.

Other then the stern tube length and the the type of shaft seal,

traditional stuffing box or dripless etc., the way our

tubes are mounted can't be that different. I don't know 

what difference internal or external threads would have at this point.

If you end up having to remove and replace everything let us 

know what you come up with. I'm sure some of us will go 

down the same path eventually.

Good Luck,

Nick

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[N C]

Boy, it almost sounds like who ever tried to remove the tube before 

didn't realize it was a left hand thread and may have thought that it 

seized onto the housing. Seems as though they may have tried to 

persuade it with a hammer.

On Mar 15, 2015, at 6:56 AM, Stephen Brady <stpa...@gmail.com> wrote:

--

[Stephen Brady]

Good news. The Stern Tube is fine, no cuts, so whoever last cut the cutlass out did it with the housing removed. I probably had a hand in the deformation attempting to hammer out the existing. I'm going to use washers, all thread and a piece of 21/4 inch pipe to press\pull it out. I believe I can take a band clamp around the threads, and use a wooden thru-hull emergency plug and work out the deformation. Then I will use your advice and use a plumber to cleanup\recut the threads with a pipe threading machine...Good Idea.. Thanks Nick for that also.

[N C]

Stephen,

Good luck with it!

Nick