83 vintage CR 38 Companion Way Steps

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Stephen Brady

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Mar 31, 2015, 6:30:31 PM3/31/15
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Well still on the Hard at Port Annapolis since purchasing Nalyone, now New Wind. R & R cockpit drain T-Hulls, Valves and hose, Head discharge T-Hull and Valve. Worked out the Drive Train issue at the Cutlass Bearing. Found a crack at the lower Keel area on both sides of the hull. Seems to be just above the Engine sump extending back 12" to 18". Ground out and applies Glass cloth layered with Epoxy.

Need to figure out how to Secure the Top of the Companion Way Steps.  Lower sole area is OK with the barrel-bolt, but how is the upper section secured to the shelf? PO had one 1/4 X 20 bolt and nut sticking out from the back side and could not open the hatch properly.  Again this is an 83 with the engine under the steps.

Thanks in advance,

Stephen
S/V New Wind

Mickey Panayiotakis

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Mar 31, 2015, 7:48:26 PM3/31/15
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Hey Stephen

Mine's a 1980, hull #30. I've not done anything to secure the top part of the companionway steps, but never had an issue with it. I suppose in really rough seas (if you're upside down say) it may matter. I've been thinking of using either hooks or barrel bolts—could hide these underneath so they don't get in the way. But I haven't had a problem in 10-15 years so it's not on my priority list.

Cheers,
mickey

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Stephen Brady

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Mar 31, 2015, 8:04:19 PM3/31/15
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Mine definitely pulls away at the top even with the barrel bolts secured into the sole....

On Tuesday, March 31, 2015 at 6:30:31 PM UTC-4, Stephen Brady wrote:

Well still on the Hard at Port Annapolis since purchasing Naelyan, now New Wind. R & R cockpit drain T-Hulls, Valves and hose, Head discharge T-Hull and Valve. Worked out the Drive Train issue at the Cutlass Bearing. Found a crack at the lower Keel area on both sides of the hull. Seems to be just above the Engine sump extending back 12" to 18". Ground out and applies Glass cloth layered with Epoxy.

Mickey Panayiotakis

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Mar 31, 2015, 8:43:19 PM3/31/15
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Mine pulls away a little when I step on the last step. I meant attaching barrel bolts at the top somehow…

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cool...@sympatico.ca

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Apr 1, 2015, 9:27:14 AM4/1/15
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I have the same design and there is a moulding on the swing hatch just above the hight of the fibreglass that stops the box from rocking as long as the barrel bolts are in place so it can not slide forward

I will be on my boat Friday and will take photos


Sent from my iPhone

Mickey Panayiotakis

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Apr 1, 2015, 9:32:59 AM4/1/15
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Hey Jamie

Duh. I've the same. Still not captive, but to be honest I rarely lock down the barrel books either; there's a lip on the bottom as well to keep the contraption from sliding forward.

Stephen, I'm in Edgewater, MD, BTW. Feel free to come by for a beer of you're in the area.
Mickey

Stephen Brady

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Apr 1, 2015, 6:10:03 PM4/1/15
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That sound good, I havn't figured how to post photos yet...

Stephen Brady

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Apr 1, 2015, 6:12:39 PM4/1/15
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Lip at the base on the sole? I noticed the the holes for the barrell bolts, just barely seat in the holes if the sole hatch is out. Wish I could post pics...

Mickey Panayiotakis

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Apr 1, 2015, 6:27:19 PM4/1/15
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Stephen, you should be able to just attach pics to the email message. You can email me directly at mic...@infamia.com

Patrick Dayshaw

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Apr 1, 2015, 11:03:07 PM4/1/15
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I have CR38, #43 with same configuration. I ground-down the tips of my
dead-bolts a bit on the ends so they are tapered to make them easier to
slide into and out of the holes in the vertical strip on the sole. We've
never had a problem with the fiberglass engine cover tipping forward as
long as the dead-bolts are in place to hold the cover from sliding
forward since the aft edge of the cover is held down by the horizontal
strip on the vertical engine space door.

Patrick
S/V Silhouette

Stephen Brady

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Apr 4, 2015, 8:52:04 AM4/4/15
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I won't be able to get to Annapolis for 2 weeks, so I'll check it out then.....Thanks for all the input............

Stephen
S/V New Wind

Mickey Panayiotakis

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Apr 4, 2015, 1:58:10 PM4/4/15
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GOod luck!

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