Looking for instruction docking CR 38 (Florida)

[Reg & Craig]

Hello All. We now own a CR38! However, now we would really like to find someone who lives in North Florida with experience docking one. We need someone who could spend a few hours with us practicing. I know We could spend time figuring it out but would really appreciate advice from an expert. Would consider this instruction and would be happy to pay for their time. Thanks all.
Craig and Regina Cox
New owners of 'Oh My'.

[N C]

Congratulations and welcome to the club. Where in northern Florida are you?

Nick
"RONIN" CR 38 #190

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[Leslie Owen]

Welcome Reg and Craig. Congratulations on your new vessel.

We have a professional instructor who is currently in North Florida to recommend for docking. He is on his boat near Jacksonville. His name is Frank Mummert and can be called at 904-574-0531 or his wife, Suzanne on 804-745-4431. Frank works for the Maryland School of Sailing and docking is a class we see him teach every week in Maryland. They are using Island Packets for the classes and that is not too far from the CR when it comes to reverse. Feel free to use my name should you call him. I would think they will be returning north soon.

Best,

Leslie and Clayton Owen
s/v Tango, CR 34
Currently Brunswick Landing Marina

Sent from my iPhone

[Tom Fuhs]

I'll second Leslie's recommendation for the Maryland School of Sailing for instruction on docking full keel vessels.  We took classes there and although we had a different instructor, I'm sure they must teach the same techniques.   Because they teach on IP's, they must teach the methods of using prop walk (to your advantage) and of prop wash.  Once you master these, you'll wonder what all the fuss is about. 

On Wed, Mar 1, 2017 at 8:37 AM, Leslie Owen <kb3...@gmail.com> wrote:

Welcome Reg and Craig. Congratulations on your new vessel.

We have a professional instructor who is currently in North Florida to recommend for docking. He is on his boat near Jacksonville.  His name is Frank Mummert and can be called at 904-574-0531 or his wife, Suzanne on 804-745-4431. Frank works for the Maryland School of Sailing and docking is a class we see him teach every week in Maryland. They are using Island Packets for the classes and that is not too far from the CR when it comes to reverse. Feel free to use my name should you call him. I would think they will be returning north soon.

Best,

Leslie and Clayton Owen
s/v Tango, CR 34
Currently Brunswick Landing Marina

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 28, 2017, at 8:05 PM, N C <cr3...@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Congratulations and welcome to the club. Where in northern Florida are you?
>
> Nick
> "RONIN" CR 38 #190
>
>
>> On Feb 28, 2017, at 4:55 PM, Reg & Craig <reha...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hello All. We now own a CR38! However, now we would really like to find someone who lives in North Florida with experience docking one. We need someone who could spend a few hours with us practicing. I know We could spend time figuring it out but would really appreciate advice from an expert. Would consider this instruction and would be happy to pay for their time. Thanks all.
>> Craig and Regina Cox
>> New owners of 'Oh My'.
>>
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>
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[Bill Jones]

There are of course many aspects to docking especially under a variety of wind and water conditions.  I however use one technique for about 90% of all my docking which also works great for single handing.  I have a prepared short heavy line rigged up with a large loop in one end.  The line is about 10 or 12 feet long.  Prior to approaching the dock I take a few turns of the bitter end (opposite of the loop) around the Gib sheet wench and secure it off under the adjacent cleat.  I set the loop end up with a long pole hooked over  the small plastic hook on the end  and lay it on the deck ready to grab. As I slowly pass by the cleat on the dock to be used for the stern tie I drop the loop over the cleat.  The boat is moving ever so slightly.  As the boat continues forward the line with the loop tightens and the boat stops.  While still in gear at an idle speed with the engine I turn the wheel hard over in the dock direction.  The combination of the line attached at the correct pivot point with the engine driving forward the bow automatically swings into the dock and remains snugged up to the dock until you kill the engine.  I have all the time in the world to get off the boat to tie of the bow and stern before killing the engine.  Works beautifully.  Once you know the pivot points on your boat you can use this same technique for swing both the bow or stern out from the dock if you are docked in a tight place sandwiched in with boats off your stern and bow.  The secret is to be able to drop the loop on the dock cleat.  I have missed a few times and have to give it another pass.

 

Bill Jones

408 234-4725

bi...@billejones.com

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[Reg & Craig]

Thanks so much. We are in Jacksonville.

[LDCB...@aol.com]

As Bill has described the proper use of a spring line,I think it is essential.

 

If docking at your home dock all the time, this works great. We permanently secured a spring line at the correct length for our boat at midships. Except when being blown away from the dock in strong winds,  this works very well. Even if blown away and you position the boat so someone can secure the spring line on the cleat and quickly secure a stern line quickly, you can dock easily. 

 

Except in strong winds, adding power and hard over to the opposite side you are docking on, the boat should come along side nicely with a spring line.  If it doesn't, play with spring line length. Once my spring line was on, helm hard over and a little throttle up, I could walk around the boat and tie on the rest of the dock lines.

I have sailed my boat by myself for years in and out of a slip.

 

These boats are not light production boats. As a result, slowing them requires reverse. You have 22,000 pounds moving in one direction, even at a slow speed, it does not stop easily. It is amazing how much strength it takes to stop these boats even at a crawl. ALWAYS have a line ready to secure on a post or cleat. Anyone helping you on the dock cannot stop the boat easily even at a slow speed by hand.

 

I saw a video years ago, called BIG BOAT HANDLING. I think from West Marine. The demonstration of the use of power and proper line handling on heavy displacement boats was a great help.

 

 These boats can be properly (and easily) controlled with the large rudder, the ample thrust available and proper use of lines. It will make docking stress free.

 

Larry Barker

Previously of Venteux. CR38

[N C]

Check out dockingstick.com, I have one, it makes catching the dock cleat real easy. 

[Novaturient Spirit]

Hi Larry, do you happen to have any additional info about that Big Boat Handling video? I'd love to see it and apparently Google hasn't heard of it.  :-)

Best,

Chuck

[LB Home]

Chuck

It has been 20 years or better. I doubt it but I may still have a copy of the dvd I will look.

Larry

Sent from my iPhone

[LB Home]

Chuck,

No luck. My wife thought it was on VCR. They have been gone fore years.

Sorry

Larry

Sent from my iPhone

[Clay]

Maryland School of Sailing has put a few YouTube videos..here's one from their website.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QQzA-LZD8qQ

[Novaturient Spirit]

No worries Larry, thanks so much for looking!!

Best,

Chuck

[curtis hoffman]

https://youtu.be/ssA63nVjK3I

Sent from my iPhone

[Alex Tarlecky]

To me, the biggest docking challenge we have with using the aft spring line is that the cleat and fairlead is too far forward. This causes the bow of the boat to want to move towards the dock. Ideally, the spring line would be further aft. You can use a jib winch with a fairlead placed on the genoa track so that the spring line comes from about 1/3 forward from the stern of the vessel vs. halfway up where the cleat is normally located. This will prevent the situations where you need to approach the dock at a quicker clip than normal, using the aft spring line and having the bow pulpit bounce off a piling.

Ask me how I know. :)

- alex

[Dave McGinnis]

You need to cut your helm hard to port or starboard (depending on which side to you docking) when springing with the after spring. This, combined with letting your bow stay a bit high will generally counteract the effects of that clear placement.  

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Regards, 

Dave McGinnis

Manager and Senior Captain

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[Dave Newberg]

Here’s my two-cents-worth about docking. Although the CR38 is notably heavier than the 34, they have nearly the same underbody shape and behave in much the same fashion. I dock our 34 singlehanded multiple times every year. We’re in a tiny harbor with minimal turning space, narrow slips, and I get one shot at doing it right, or things quickly turn to pandemonium (a.k.a. harbor entertainment).

The technique I use is similar to what has been described by Larry, Bill, et al. with a couple of exceptions. Rather than a fixed length of line or a loop, I use 20’ spring-line that's one size smaller diameter (for ease of handling) than our dock lines. This line is made fast to a (movable) cleat on the genoa car track atop the caprail, just aft of the cabin bulkhead on our 34. The position of the cleat is important and I explain below how to locate the cleat. When I bring the boat alongside the dock, I use reverse gear to stop the forward motion with the "target" dock cleat and the caprail cleat side-by side and the boat as close as possible to the dock. Once completely stopped, I immediately put the engine back in forward, at very low RPM, or idle if there’s no wind, and step off the boat onto the dock with spring-line in hand, tying it to the dock cleat while pulling it up tight. As the boat begins to make way forward, it snugs itself tightly to the dock and will sit there all day if necessary. I ease the spring-line with engine still in fwd until the boat is aligned where I want it, then I tie a bow line, stern line, additional spring, whatever. Done, now shut off the engine. 

To locate the movable cleat on the rail once you have installed it, choose a day with a breeze blowing you off the dock, so you can see what effect a contrary wind will have. Start by guessing at a spot where you think the boat will draw up properly to the dock, around 1/4-1/3 of the way forward from the stern, and locate the cleat there. Make a line fast between your target-dock-cleat and your moveable one with a couple of feet of slack, then put the boat in forward. Ease the bow and stern lines but don’t untie them. If your boat starts to twist bow in to the dock, your cleat will have to be moved aft and vice versa. Once you find the sweet spot, remember it, or make a mark so you can always return the movable cleat there. Experiment with different engine RPMs for various wind conditions until you are confident you have it right.

Fortunately when undocking, which can be even more panic inducing in our tiny harbor, I can usually find a willing dock hand. But if necessary this technique can be reversed to leave the dock — engine in fwd with docking spring in place (looped over the dock cleat for ease of casting off from the cockpit), untie all other lines, boat remains in place, put engine in neutral, cast off docking spring, reverse and go.

We’ve been using this single line docking method for a couple of decades or more — it has worked well for every boat on which we’ve tried the technique. We use it even when docking with a crew because there’s no confusion. As soon as you have the spring line in place, all is calm, life is good.

Cheers

Dave

[Novaturient Spirit]

OMG yes! We had a close call between our bowsprit and a piling during our first docking with the CR34. I had a stopping spring all nicely set up on the slip ahead of time. The result was not what I'd anticipated. The position of the "midship" cleat isn't ideal for this use.

Chuck

[Leslie Owen]

Gee we will use our winch as it is in the cockpit, close and quick.  A couple of wraps and lock down. Be sure line is fed through the life lines correctly. We have used that on all our vessels without issues. 

Best,

Leslie

s/v Tango,

CR 34

Sent from my iPhone

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[Mickey Panayiotakis]

+1 for what Leslie said :) On my "regular" slip, I stop halfway in and tie the aft spring and bow line on same site. Then I just kick it in reverse. I use the "bow swings out" effect to reach the opposite bow line.

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[Alex Tarlecky]

Dave,

Thanks...I've tried this and it only works when you have barely no momentum to begin with. Having the line lead from just a bit back works nearly 100% of the time with no fuss.

- alex