Filling door holes with push button latches

[Chuck Batson]

The recent messages about door latches reminded me of something. I'm not a fan of the "finger holes of doom" for the latches in all the various doors and would prefer a way of opening them (and keeping them securely closed) that isn't an injury waiting to happen.

I've tried dry-fitting a couple push button latches (like I've seen on other boats) and they're generally either too large or too small (diameter-wise) for the existing hole. Also the latchy ends tend to be bulky.

Both of which can be dealt with, though I'm wondering if anyone here has come up with a clever/elegant solution for these door holes?

Best wishes,

Chuck

CR34 #34

[Patrick Dayshaw]

Yes, "finger holes of doom" is an apt description.

What I did is neither clever nor elegant but works for me. I cut short
sections of wooden dowel (3/4" long  or so), scuffed up the inside of
the holes and glued the dowels in place. Prior to gluing them in I
drilled a hole of the appropriate size for the knob screw. I used a
drill press setup to keep the holes centered. I glued the dowels in so
they were recessed a bit and the knob, just a big box hardware store
variety, protruded enough to be pleasing to my eye. I stained the outer
face of the dowel a bit to darken so that it blends in with the
surrounding teak trim ring.

Works and looks just fine. The original latches/catches were all
serviceable so I didn't feel I needed to upgrade that hardware.

Patrick

SV Silhouette, CR38, #43

> Snip....

[Chuck Batson]

Thank you Patrick. The wooden dowel is what I had been envisioning as well, so it's good to hear it worked out for you. Thanks for the other details too, I'd been wondering how it would turn out cosmetically-speaking.

Best,

Chuck

[S/V Silhouette]

Yes, "finger holes of doom" is an apt description.

What I did is neither clever nor elegant but works for me. I cut short sections of wooden dowel (3/4" long  or so), scuffed up the inside of the holes and glued the dowels in place. Prior to gluing them in I drilled a hole of the appropriate size for the knob screw. I used a drill press setup to keep the holes centered. I glued the dowels in so they were recessed a bit and the knob, just a big box hardware store variety, protruded enough to be pleasing to my eye. I stained the outer face of the dowel a bit to darken so that it blends in with the surrounding teak trim ring.

Works and looks just fine. The original latches/catches were all serviceable so I didn't feel I needed to upgrade that hardware.

Patrick

SV Silhouette, CR38, #43

Snip....

[LB Home]

Great solution. Wish we had done that on our boat. No broken finger but close several times.

Larry

Boatless

Sent from my iPhone

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[Rich DiMinno]

We use short lengths of double braid line threaded into the finger holes with stopper knots on both sides.
Works great and also prevents the front of the door from hitting the cabin sole.

[Chuck Batson]

Rich - Interesting idea, simple and clever, thanks for sharing! So do you have the inner end of the line tied to the latch so you can pull on the outer end of the line to open the door?

[Rich DiMinno]

Our latches are a screw in the corner of the door that engages a u shaped plastic fitting that snaps in place over the screw head and holds the door shut.
It was hard to pull the door open against the pressure of the latch.So I just put the line threw the finger hole and tied a stopper knot in both ends of the line.

[Robert Benner]

Rich

That is both clever and nondestructive.  Good idea.

Bob

On Sep 23, 2017 8:57 PM, "'Rich DiMinno' via caborico" <cabo...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

We use short lengths of double braid line threaded into the finger holes with stopper knots on both sides.
Works great and also prevents the front of the door from hitting the cabin sole.

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