Bilge pumps

[Stephen Brady]

So who has replaced the original bilge pump, and water pump, which sits on the shelf under the cockpit. What model bilge pump did you go to and did you add a float switch? I've replaced the original rotted shelf and both pumps are useless. I'm considering a Whale SI8284 which has an integrated switch and pickup. Water pump will be the newer type Jabsco, West Marine or Shurflow style.

[LB Home]

Ours is under the quarter birth. Very hard to work on there.

I rebuilt the bilge belt driven pump. Replaced the original water pump With Sureflow years ago. Very quiet. 

Works great.

Larry

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 20, 2017, at 7:59 AM, Stephen Brady <stpa...@gmail.com> wrote:

So who has replaced the original bilge pump, and water pump, which sits on the shelf under the cockpit. What model bilge pump did you go to and did you add a float switch? I've replaced the original rotted shelf and both pumps are useless. I'm considering a Whale SI8284 which has an integrated switch and pickup. Water pump will be the newer type Jabsco, West Marine or Shurflow style.

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[MW Swart]

Replaced water pump, ours is under quarter berth, with a Shurflow. It has performed well for the past 2 years. Original bilge pump on #99 was 1500gph submersible Rule. It works but we added a automatic Rule 750 gah in keel sump. Also replaced and relocated manual pump in cockpit with a Whale. Moved pump from cockpit seat to cockpit coaming, one less source of leaks

[Ron Acierno]

Every float switch fails or jams within a few years.  The vacuum switch, which is the same your washing machine uses to stop filling the tub, will only fail if clogged with oil. I suggest that you use this type of switch (a tube with the end in the bilge running up to a wall mounted vacuum / pressure switch with any pump without an integrated switch on your primary pump 

Ron

Ron Acierno, PhD
Professor and Associate Dean for Research
Medical University of South Carolina
College of Nursing, Room 500
99 Jonathan Lucas St.    MSC 160
Charleston SC 29425-1600

P: (843) 792-2949
F: (843) 792-2099
acierno@musc.edu
http://www.musc.edu/nursing

MUSC Nurses Change Lives!

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[Stephen Brady]

Yes Ron, I was just looking at the Jabsco Hydro Air Switch and will highly consider this system. I'm thinking of now going with the original style Jabsco Diaphragm pump for the bilge with that switch. Originally there was no switch on #67, just a manual toggle switch. PO installed an 800 GPH Rule with a manuel switch on a 4ft aluminum flat stock into the sump.

On Thursday, June 22, 2017 at 6:10:08 AM UTC-4, ron a. wrote:

Every float switch fails or jams within a few years.  The vacuum switch, which is the same your washing machine uses to stop filling the tub, will only fail if clogged with oil. I suggest that you use this type of switch (a tube with the end in the bilge running up to a wall mounted vacuum / pressure switch with any pump without an integrated switch on your primary pump 

Ron

Ron Acierno, PhD
Professor and Associate Dean for Research
Medical University of South Carolina
College of Nursing, Room 500
99 Jonathan Lucas St.    MSC 160
Charleston SC 29425-1600

P: (843) 792-2949
F: (843) 792-2099

acierno...@musc.edu
http://www.musc.edu/nursing

MUSC Nurses Change Lives!

Sent from my iPhone

[Mickey Panayiotakis]

Has anyone tried the electromagic pump switches?

https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-America-Marine-Ultima-Control/dp/B000N9RF1K/

(whale makes similar)

Not great reviews on amazon but…

mickey

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[curtis hoffman]

Found out the wire on my pump was too small. Pump tried to start full of ice. The wiring didn't allow enough current to pop The breaker. The pump motor and circuit breaker burned instead. A couple of wire sizes bigger would have solved the problem.



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 20, 2017, at 1:29 PM, MW Swart <jennife...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Replaced water pump, ours is under quarter berth, with a Shurflow. It has performed well for the past 2 years. Original bilge pump on #99 was 1500gph submersible Rule. It works but we added a automatic Rule 750 gah in keel sump. Also replaced and relocated manual pump in cockpit with a Whale. Moved pump from cockpit seat to cockpit coaming, one less source of leaks
>

[Tom Fuhs]

I have a smallish Johnson bilge pump on the Bayfield.  It has that same switch technology built in.  It's been fine for us for the last two years.  No problems at all.  One nice feature is that after it is "tripped" and the bilge is pumped out, it remains on for an additional 30 seconds *after* the low water mark is achieved.  This can be useful in situations where there is considerable water in the hose.  That additional 30 seconds of "slurp time" will help the pump evacuate just a little additional bilge slop such that the back wash from the hose is not enough to re-trip the switch.  *Note* Never use a check valve in-line with a bilge pump.  It gums up quick, never completely seals, causes reduced flow from the pump, and will cause otherwise high moral'ed folks to abuse puppies. Just don't do it!

FWIW, Grocko also makes a pressure activated bilge switch.  https://www.groco.net/products/pumps/accessories/as-100-bilge-switch  I have no idea how well it works, but in general, I think Grocko makes some pretty good stuff.  

My plan for the bilge is a diaphragm pump (Whale Gulper 320 or similar) on a air pressure type switch for normal bilge duties.  This keeps the pump and the switch out of the bilge.  Then a large vane type pump (Rule 4000 or similar) mounted a bit higher on a manual switch for emergency de-watering.  This plan puts no normally live power in the bilge, and keeps the emergency pump high and out of the normal muck of the bilge thus keeping it pristine and ready for duty in an emergency.  Hopefully. YMMV.  

[Robert Benner]

We have used the Jabsco pressure switch for several years and it is acceptable but I do not recommend it too enthusiastically.  It needs regular attention.  This is a purely mechanical device: a hose leads from the bilge and connects to a barb on a diaphram in the switch housing.  When rising water causes increasing air pressure in the hose the diaphram expands and presses a microswitch.

Problems:

1. the barb/hose union can leak air which reduces effectiveness,

2. the diaphram material can harden or lose elasticity or worse develop a crack,

3 I am uneasy trusting my boat to a rubber balloon pressing on a lever which presses on a mechanical switch.

The Jabsco replaced a "no moving parts" switch which we purchased from West Marine a decade or so ago.  That switch lasted three years before the insulation on the wires failed where they entered the potted electronics.  I presume the device was fine, just useless.

Paraphrasing that old diabetic guy on TV: "check your bilge pump switch, check it often".  Carry a spare.  Keep the connection points high and dry so you can swap them out with ease.

Bob

[Dave Newberg]

We’ve relied on the vacuum switch Ron described for the 12 years we’ve owned our boat — it has worked very well and we trust it. To its even greater credit, it is 1990 vintage original equipment. Just to be sure, we test it at the beginning of every season.

We’ve rebuilt the original Jabsco diaphragm pump and replaced the corroded hose connectors but it still works as well.

Cheers

Dave

[Alex Tarlecky]

We use two bilge pumps:

1) Our primary Whale Bilge IC that sits lowest in the bilge with the actual pump located up directly underneath the cockpit. This feeds an output that is split into two using a Y valve. The first output goes overboard just like any bilge pump would. The second output goes into the cockpit just above the scupper. The purpose of the cockpit output is so that when the bilge pump runs, we can see that it is running. Also, if any oil or diesel or something has been leaking into the bilge. If we determine that its running too much we can switch the the valve to pump overboard while we investigate what is causing the pump to run. 

2) A secondary 4000 GPH Johnson with a Ultra Safety Systems Pump Switch. This has a built in high water alarm if the switch fails and the primary pump can't keep up with the water. We can then run the secondary bilge pump manually if needed.

3) Considering adding a third Whale IC pump.

Of course, we also have the manual bilge pump and we have a secondary manual bilge pump mounted on a plywood platform that we could use or hand over to another boat that is in trouble. 

- alex

[Cab...@aol.com]

I have a large electric diaphragm pump located up high in the port locker, a large manual diaphragm pump and the smallest Rule automatic pump. The small pump keeps the bilge clear of normal rain leakage. If  the big pump comes on it means I have a problem. Load buzzer goes off too. Takes a foot of water in the bilge to set off the big pump. I test every few weeks.

 

 

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[Chuck Batson]

I've heard good things about the Ultra Safety Systems switches, although I don't have first-hand experience with them.

http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_infor

Chuck

CR34 hull #34

San Rafael, Ca