Batten cars and holders on my CR38

[Calypso Poet - CR38 #116]

While installing new lazyjacks over the weekend I discovered that everyone of my old Rutgerson batten holders are broken. The plastic just seem to have became embrittled - it just crumbles in my hand.
Has anyone replaced these on their boat? Seems Rutgerson does not make these old pieces anymore, and that their newer stuff requires the cars to be replaced as well.
Looking on Google i only find cars that fit on a T-track and not in the slot as needed for my mast.
What did you replace the cars and batten holders with?

Pete

[Clay]

Look at a Strong Track system...

[Dave Newberg]

I concur — the Strong Track was one of the best improvements we’ve ever made.
Mainsail handling is exponentially easier now. Sail goes up easy and drops like a rock into the lazy jacks, even works downwind.
Very reasonably priced, worth every penny and more.

Cheers
Dave

> On Mar 20, 2017, at 10:51 AM, Clay <clay...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Look at a Strong Track system...
>

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[Ron Acierno]

Best upgrade I've ever done was strong track system.

Ron

Ron Acierno, PhD
Professor and Associate Dean for Research
Medical University of South Carolina
College of Nursing, Room 500
99 Jonathan Lucas St.    MSC 160
Charleston SC 29425-1600

P: (843) 792-2949
F: (843) 792-2099
acierno@musc.edu
http://www.musc.edu/nursing

MUSC Nurses Change Lives!

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 20, 2017, at 11:51 AM, Clay <clay...@gmail.com> wrote:

Look at a Strong Track system...

[N C]

Did you have to do any modifications to the sail?

CR 38 #190 "RONIN"

Nick

[Dave Newberg]

Our Strong Track was installed in 2014. Installation of the mast cars onto the mainsail was part of the package that our sailmaker quoted. 

We installed the new track on the mast ourselves, which was easy and took only about 45 minutes. It’s one piece, just unrolls and slides in place with no holes to drill. 

We had to modify outboard ends of the batten pockets to flip-flop style to accommodate getting battens into Strong Track’s mast cars. That mod. added just over $200 to the total.

Cost of the entire package was about $1300 for our CR34, a bit higher for a 38 of course, but WAY cheaper than Harken Battcar system and very nearly as slippery. 

As an added bonus, the Strong Track requires virtually no maintenance, no annual cleaning, and no bearing lube like Harken.

Cheers

Dave

[N C]

Dave,

Thanks for the response. It just moved the Strong Track up on the priority list...those darn boat bucks, keeping chipping away!

 Cheers,

 Nick

[petesown66]

Thanks all for the responses.

It looks like the Strong track is the way to go.

Pete

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 active, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

[Ron Acierno]

Yup. Definitely the way to go  If you want to easily raise the sail without effort or easily reef without turning into the wind, or lower the sail on a run without any trouble. (First sheet it in tight for that second comment)

Ron

Ron Acierno, PhD
Professor and Associate Dean for Research
Medical University of South Carolina
College of Nursing, Room 500
99 Jonathan Lucas St.    MSC 160
Charleston SC 29425-1600

P: (843) 792-2949
F: (843) 792-2099
acierno@musc.edu
http://www.musc.edu/nursing

MUSC Nurses Change Lives!

Sent from my iPhone

[cab...@aol.com]

I used Harken, must be cleaned twice a year. Dust and dirt will slow it down. Strong would not work on mast.

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

---

On Monday, March 20, 2017 Clay <clay...@gmail.com> wrote:
Look at a Strong Track system...

[petesown66]

Breck 

Why would the Strong not work on your mast?

Harken seems to be excessively proud ($$$) of their stuff😣

Pete

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 active, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

[Tom Fuhs]

The Harken system is more expensive, adds more weight aloft, is more complicated, and requires more service than the Tides Marine Strong track approach.  That said, the Harken system performs brilliantly.  Raising, lowering, or reefing the main in 35-40 knots on a run is no problem.  I was offshore on a CR42 with this system in a full gale on a run and the main pretty much dropped on it's own.  The Strong track is close but not quite as slick.  That said,  we're putting the Tides Strong track on Eclipse as part of our refit. I know that CR38 Dreamtime has the Strong track system. Dreamtime is a 1981 model.  I don't know what mast sections were used on the early CR's.  

On Wed, Mar 22, 2017 at 3:20 PM, petesown66 <petes...@gmail.com> wrote:

Breck 

Why would the Strong not work on your mast?

Harken seems to be excessively proud ($$$) of their stuff😣

Pete

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 active, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

-------- Original message --------

From: cabo79 via caborico <cabo...@googlegroups.com>

Date: 3/22/17 11:41 AM (GMT-05:00)

To: cabo...@googlegroups.com, clay...@gmail.com

Subject: RE: [caborico] Batten cars and holders on my CR38

I used Harken, must be cleaned twice a year. Dust and dirt will slow it down. Strong would not work on mast.

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

---

On Monday, March 20, 2017 Clay <clay...@gmail.com> wrote:

Look at a Strong Track system...

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[S/V Oceanghost]

I had the same problem with mine. I replaced it with a Harken Battcar system. I installed it in one day, so far no problems. Very Satisfied. Just spray some fresh water and dish soap on the cars every so often and your good to go.

[Cab...@aol.com]

Ditto, just wash the cars out a couple times a year.

 

 

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[Calypso Poet - CR38 #116]

Thanks to all that responded on my question on batten cars.
So, following the overwhelming vote of confidence for the Strong Track system, yesterday I was just about to hit the "Order now" button when I came up with - I think - a better idea than buying the track.

Most of the points everyone made about the great performance of the system seems to be connected to the "heavy loading a modern full battened sail generate".
So, what's the groups opinion on instead of installing the track and new batten cars on my old sail, I rather add that +/- 1.5 BU's to a new non-full battened main. (My sail is not in toobad a shape, but at some point I have to replace it in anyway)

Why does most CR's seem to be equipped with full battened mains - what do I loose if I go with partial (or even none) battens
Is my assumption correct that the stiction in the track without something like Strong Track or Harken will be less/no issue without battens.

Of course this might be just me rationalizing new sails... :)


Pete

[Thierry Danz]

Pete,

I sail a CR42, mostly single handed. I have no experience with the Strong Tack system (although I've heard nothing but positive comments). I have two full battens high and two short(ish) ones lower. I hoist the main by hand up to the first reef and then use a winch for the last few feet. All done at the mast. I think that most of the problems with hoisting and lowering mainsails are caused by the desire to lead everything aft to the cockpit. All those turning blocks add a lot of friction. 

I believe that a 2+2 batten main also gives you the best sail shape and trim flexibility, especially with a loose footed main.

Thierry

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[Daniel Sanders]

The Cabo was built to be a voyaging vessel. Full battens and a loose footed plan helps keep the sail shape. The harken battcar system is an amazing set up. We love ours.

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[cab...@aol.com]

IMHO the CR 38 main is somewhat under canvassed, using the full batten sail gives you more area , Also in light air the battens give the sail a good shape making it perform better in light air. We need all the help we can get in light air. On that note the code zero has to be tensioned hard so you need to beef up the attachments at the head and tack. I just use a quarter inch bail at the head for the asymmetrical.and a 6 inch extension of two 3/16 inch SS plates at the tack.

Breck Caine CR 38 #19

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[Alex Tarlecky]

Breck - I'd be very interested in seeing close up photos of your tack area. Do you haul the code zero on a spin halyard?

- alex

[Cab...@aol.com]

 I DO NOT plan on using the spinnaker bail for the code Zero. I have the material to beef up and extend the setup I have on the end of the cranse iron with a heavier extension (about 8 inches out from the head stay attachment) and a beefed up attachment at the mast head. Just had folding steps installed near the top of the mast to make it easier to work up there. The luff of the code zero has to be VERY tight, use low stretch line. I have a not so heavy duty extension now for the spinnaker attachment, I think I have some pictures of it. If not I will take some.The guy that sells the bag that you drop your mainsail into, sells a pre made masthead set up, but it did not look that sturdy and is made of aluminum. When I had a new cranse iron made, I made it heavy with two holes drilled into it to accept the extension. This is a work in progress. Just ordered a new headsail (85% yankee).

[Daniel Sanders]

I would love to see pictures of your code zero set up.

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