Boarding Stanchion Modification
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Dave McGinnis
May 18, 2015, 7:08:12 PM5/18/15
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We just modified our boarding stanchions on Scout and thought some of you might be interested in our solution to the original lousy design. We had the diagonal cross braces that scared into the fiberglass bulwarks and were perennially blown out from torc.
I don't know how to post photos directly on Google Groups, so if anyone would like pictures, just foley tintype post and I can upload them from my email.
Anyway, web cut the cross brace down to rail height and welded a piece of 3/16" stainless to it to use as a base. We took another plate of 3/16", put the two together and drilled through with a 5/16" bit. The idea was to use the second piece as a backing plate, drill through the cap rail, inboard of the sheet track, and bolt it with 1/4 x 20 machine screws. We ended up cutting the backing plates in half, due to the difficulty in being able to perfectly line up the drill holes through the rails.
In addition we created a second brace the screws to the outboard side of the sheet track. I used a wire coat hanger to shape a template that would allow a bow in the brace to clear the sheet cars. The welder used it to make the four outboard pieces, welded a piece of 3/16" (with two countersunk screw holes for #12 x 3/4" screws) to it, as a base, and welded them to the stanchions.
They are solid and a rock and I'm very comfident that they will hold for a long time. Better yet, no water infiltration though those stupid screw holes in the fiberglass. We epoxied over them with West System. I'm a little stresses about matching the paint color to touch up those area, but all in all its a huge improvement.
I don't know how to post photos directly on Google Groups, so if anyone would like pictures, just foley tintype post and I can upload them from my email.
Anyway, web cut the cross brace down to rail height and welded a piece of 3/16" stainless to it to use as a base. We took another plate of 3/16", put the two together and drilled through with a 5/16" bit. The idea was to use the second piece as a backing plate, drill through the cap rail, inboard of the sheet track, and bolt it with 1/4 x 20 machine screws. We ended up cutting the backing plates in half, due to the difficulty in being able to perfectly line up the drill holes through the rails.
In addition we created a second brace the screws to the outboard side of the sheet track. I used a wire coat hanger to shape a template that would allow a bow in the brace to clear the sheet cars. The welder used it to make the four outboard pieces, welded a piece of 3/16" (with two countersunk screw holes for #12 x 3/4" screws) to it, as a base, and welded them to the stanchions.
They are solid and a rock and I'm very comfident that they will hold for a long time. Better yet, no water infiltration though those stupid screw holes in the fiberglass. We epoxied over them with West System. I'm a little stresses about matching the paint color to touch up those area, but all in all its a huge improvement.
Dave McGinnis
May 18, 2015, 7:13:03 PM5/18/15
to cabo...@googlegroups.com
You will notice in the photos that there is a gap at the bolt heads due to the necessary compensation for the rail angle when drilling the steel. The bases are heavily bedded in Dolphinite, and I think I'll put a dab of clear silicone in each of the gaps at the machine screw heads.
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Regards,
Dave McGinnis
Manager and Senior Captain
Traverse Tall Ship Company, LLC
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