Broken Exhaust - Major issue or easily repairable?

[Calypso Poet - CR38 #116]

Hi everyone

First of all, Happy Thanksgiving. I hope you all have a wonderful day

I would love to get some ideas from the community.
We just sailed from Brunswick (GA) to Daytona on the outside (left Sunday), coming in through Ponce inlet.

Long story short, I needed to run the motor during the night to keep my batteries up (only 18 months old, but it looks like I managed to mess them up somehow). We would be out for 48 hours to get in some sailing experience and in any way, didn't want to come in through an unfamiliar inlet at any risk to be caught in the dark. I ran the engine therefore at only low revs (between 1200 and 1500). The higher vibrations at the lower revs bothered me, but needing to conserve fuel, I persisted.
Early Tuesday morning, just as I got ready to secure the engine (My solar kept me in power during the day), the over temp alarm went off.
Opening the engine compartment I was met with a cloud of steam and the overpowering diesel exhaust. I immediately shut the engine off.

My exhaust exit on the W46 seems to be a mod by the PO - the #520 photo shows the mild steel stand pipe with a one-of injection turn at the top. This whole arrangement is supported and "protected" against vibrations by a supporting bar from just below the turn bolted to the heat exchanger mounting plate.
Overall it is not a bad installation, but the age and vibrations took its toll. The exhaust broke right where it comes out of the exhaust manifold - see photos #643 and #437.

I havent had a chance to get into this job, so would like to get an idea from you all - is the manifold ruined, or is it just the hot gas part that can be replaced.

In my parts manual, it seems there is supposed to be a removable plate at the end of the manifold. On the photos, it does not appear to be like that ???

Any Ideas what I am looking at for repair?
Note, the steam came from the coolant - I did not observe a strong flow of water that could have come from the raw water pump - which means the break is in to the closed cooling side.

Pete

[Alex Tarlecky]

You can easily get a new exhaust manifold made at just about any machine shop. No Need to buy an expensive one off the shelf from Westerbeke. Just take off the one you have and take it into a shop with a good rep and have them fabricate you a new one. Prices vary widely for this type of work so if you can get multiple quotes. When you reinstall, use a high quality exhaust heat shield tape and a new gasket - both may be available at Autozone.

- alex

[Alex Tarlecky]

You should replace that clamp as well. That's no good.

On Thursday, November 24, 2016 at 2:13:48 PM UTC-5, Calypso Poet - CR38 #116 wrote:

[petesown66]

In the end the issue got it repaired.

Strange, although the exhaust (standing section up to and including water injection) is made of SS (i think 304), the flange and about 1" was mild steel. This section got completely rusted out and broke off right behind the flange.

The engine side and manifold was fine.

I cut off about 3" closest to the break and welder a new 304 section with 304 flange.

Good as new!

Just for insurance, I did buy a used coolant manifold with new gaskets and cap to keep as a spare.

I'm not sure if the mild steel flange was a PO mod, or if it was factory done ( not even sure if the exhaust standing section is factory original) - for W46 equipped engines you might want to check...it's not fun to become engineless just as you are about to enter an unfamiliar inlet...

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S7 active, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

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[Alex Tarlecky]

There was a recall on the W46 and Perkins engines installed by Cabo Rico in the way-back days shortly after they were produced. The engines were retrofitted with taller exhaust risers to increase the height above the static waterline, for obvious reasons. We still have our retrofit documentation. Perhaps they used a variety of risers.