Leaking porthole

[Jarrett & Shelly Blair s/v Morningstar]

We are getting water between the fiberglass and the bronze porthole to the inside of the boat. Do any of you have any experience with resealing one? We were wondering if there was a certain type of seal that goes in there in between the two bronze pieces. It is not coming in between the seal where u open and close, or the glass. We plan on doing all of them when we do it. Is it an actual seal or a sealant? Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Jarrett & Shelly
S/V Morningstar
CR38 #41

[Dave Newberg]

Before attempting to re-bed the port, you have to be absolutely sure that is the source of the problem. Water can be coming in various places above, e.g. the mast collar, grab rails, etc., and then migrating along inside the headliner and exiting at the port. If you haven’t proved it to yourself that it's leaking at the port, do some detective work.

Cheers
Dave

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[Larry Barker]

I have used a good tape. Shrink wrap tape ( white vinyl) is best and leaves very little residue. Seal all around the exterior of the port. Hose it down. No leaks then like Dave suggested hose down the other areas one at a time.
Larry Barker
Venteux
Hull 89

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[Mike Nixon]

Captain Tollie's Creaping Crack Cure has worked for me for the past 3 years while I procrastinate resealing the port lights just as you describe.  It is very thin and works by capillary action to seek out small voids.  I reapply every 6 months and it does seem to work well.

Mike Nixon

s/v Voyager #177

[dennis williamson]

I lifted mine and receded them 6 years ago not a problem since, well worth the effort

Dennis williamson
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[dennis williamson]

For receded please read re-bedded....

Dennis williamson
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[Mike Nixon]

What did you use to seal them - 4200?

Mike Nixon

s/v Voyager #177

[dennis williamson]

Yep,but it's not somuch which sealant it's the fact that you seal them. In my case most of the water ingress I had was originating from the port holes. So I simply removed the outer trim applied sealant and replaced it, worked wonders. I also refurbed the bronze with careful application of abrasives at the same time. Now have ports that are water tight and not a dingy green colour. This was done on 2006 and still good.

Dennis williamson

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[curtis hoffman]

  Chatting with the factory a few years ago Cabo in their wisdom selected a 3M product to seal the ports. The real sealant is butyl rubber that the port manufacturer recommended. I had leaking problems on my 42 and had a factory guy re bed a couple of them properly. I think the problem goes back many years BTW. Look up the port manufactures and read their recommend process. It's a bear of a project!

Paul
      

[dennis williamson]

Not to ad on a 38, I seem to remember in took me a full four days to do the job,best four days spent on the boat.

Dennis williamson

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[Thierry Danz]

Paul, the problem you described started when the factory switched to NFM ports. Although NFM specified butyl rubber, they initially bedded with 5200. Later they switched to  3M 101. That's what they used on my boat in 2003. I've had several re-bedded, but it is not a lasting solution. The factory, in its wisdom, also decided not to use the NFM template when they cut the opening, with the result that the opening is too big in places. The older boats don't have this problem. For them it's just a matter of  caulking failing due to age. I also would use butyl rubber, if practical, to re-bed these old style portholes. Never 5200.
Thierry
CR42#12 CURLEW
Baltimore, MD

[Mike Nixon]

Thanks Dennis.

[curtis hoffman]

Redoing with butyl is a serious project .basically they have to put in too much butyl then force the mounting screws to squeeze out the excess. I've Wilbert do a few of my leakers. 

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[gregry melnechuk]

Hi. I've found on my Cabo that you can simply remove the outside ring  and screws with a drill and apply 4200 and reseal.  You may want to rebed or reseal all of the ports from the exterior of the Cabo.  I find that I need to do mine about every 3-4 years. cheers :)

[Jarrett & Shelly Blair]

Thank you for the information!

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Subject: Re: [caborico] Leaking porthole

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[Jarrett & Shelly Blair s/v Morningstar]

Thank you all for the information.  We have removed the culprit and reassembled....and since we are in Texas and it hasn't stopped raining for a couple of months now, we will see fairly quickly if we were successful. 

CR38 #42

[curtis hoffman]

The factory guy from Cabo used a simple hose with dock water for leak testing. Worked well. 

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[MW Swart]

re; square opening portlights on '85 CR38- it only took a couple hours for us to remove all trim rings, clean up the residue, seal with Lifecaulk , then put trim rings back on. Have plenty of acetone handy when using Lifecaulk! On our boat, it had obviously been years since this had been done. None of them have leaked since being repaired, but we will replace gaskets on the inside ASAP. The four round portlights do not seem to leak, though they too need inside gaskets . The main sheet traveler track was badly leaking, and had been doing so for years. It is our belief that this source of water intrusion is often blamed on other issues, such as leaking ports and deck scuppers. Once this was removed and rebedded, we had a much drier boat. The staysail track needed attention as well.

[Stephen Brady]

On S/V New Wind, 1983 CR 38. My ports all say Perko. West Marine sells a Perko branded Inner T-molded gasket for those ports. May be similar for other Bronze ports. I'm finding that the sealing gasket, when closing the port, and the seal between the glass are leakin. Perkos have a screwed ring around the Glass that can be remove and resealed with butyle tape, very easy surprisingly. So far no leaks from the bedded ports.

 

Stephen 

[gregry melnechuk]

The reason for using 4200 was so if they leaked in the future, I can remove the outer ring.  The factory or whoever installed 4200 0n the chain plate nuts.

I was able to remove the old 4200 and the chainplate bolts and nuts without difficulty.:)

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[David Cameron]

I, removed all of my port 's cut back the coring appx 3/4 of an inch filled the area with epoxy. I then installed the port holes using butyl rubber strips as a sealant ,All of this was 2 years ago no leaks yet.

Dave \Miss Molly #52

-----Original Message-----
From: gregry melnechuk <gre...@gmail.com>

[MW Swart]

good idea, keep that in mind for the next time!