PETG 1.75 Clear by MakerGeeks stuck so bad

[RTTIII]

PETG 1.75 Clear by MakerGeeks stuck so bad. Just received BuildTak to solve all my gluing issues only to try PETG that was in the printer from a previous print (re-printed same part).  I could not pry the parts off the bed. Once broken off using a putty knife with only a few scratched the residue never fully cleaned off.  Used a razor edge, then tried adding denatured alcohol to the scrapping to little or no avail. If I had valued my print it would have been lost.  Not sure I trust BuildTak !!.

ANY THOUGHTS.  

[BuildTak]

Hi RTTIII

We have not yet tested PETG in our Lab, but have ordered a roll and will begin testing as soon as it arrives.

I just need a little more information from you to help us.

- What printer(s) are you using?

- Did you relevel your print bed and reset your nozzle height after installing your BuildTak sheet?

- What nozzle temperate are you printing with?

- Does your printer have a heated build plate and if so what temperature do you set it to?

Also, please email us at in...@buildtak.com with your order information so we can assist you with your BuildTak sheet.

[Colen Casey]

you might add 1mm of z-offset in your slicing this way you dont have to recalibrate the bed
and it gives you a little more room between the hotend and the bed when it starts printing

Z-offset is your friend when using buildtak or any other print bed replacement

[dcphoto]

I use MakerGeeks PETG all the time. It's replaced ABS and PLA for almost everything that I do.

First, make sure your nozzle is around 1mm from the print bed. I use the .9mm gauge from this set of millimeter feeler gauges for bed leveling; http://amzn.com/B000BYEQ3C

Second, I usually use 220-230c degrees for the nozzle (depending on speed) and 80c for the print bed. I find that parts don't like to come off BuildTak at 80c. They really don't like to come off at room temperature. Normally I'll give the bed a few minutes to cool, and will remove parts at 60-65c. If I wasn't present for the end of the print I'll heat the bed to 80, let the heat soak into the part for a few minutes, then turn it off and remove at 60-65.

Lastly, I use http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:631540 (I usually have to increase X and Z by 2.5%) with a blunted razor to remove parts. The razor is much thinner than a paint scraper, and I have a much easier time getting under a part with it. To blunt and round the razor I installed it in the holder and ran the sharp edge across a medium India stone. You could use an emory board (for nails) if you don't have an India stone. 

[dcphoto]

Correction, I only add 2.5% to Z for http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:631540.

[Eddy Emck]

Hi,

recently I installed the flex plate BuildTak end I'm zo happy with is. Gone all glue stick spray stuff shit. 

PETG was a bit of a struggle but I found the ideal print setup and now prints like a charme!

The clue is PETG is a bit sluggish and need time to land on the bed and stick. So lay down you first layer extremely slow. Like 15 14% (Simplify3D).

Instant succes!