Beneteau Oceanis 40 (2009) - sail sizes
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sail abroad
10 abr 2015, 23:05:5010/4/15
a benetea...@googlegroups.com
Hi all,
I would like to add some more sails to my current wardrobe but seem not to find any further information in regards to sizing.
Does anyone on this forum have information/experience about the size of
- Staysail / Innerjib
- Storm jib - I assume that one should be around 6sqm/64.58 sqft
Also does anyone has experience how to rig the staysail on a BO40 (stay vs wire in luff) and how the sheets are run back (via additional footblocks > genoa cars > another set of smaler winches in front of steeering column).
Many thanks!
Mark Melvin
11 abr 2015, 10:07:0311/4/15
a benetea...@googlegroups.com
Bob Pattison at Neil Pryde Sails who was OEM for all Beneteau USA sails at the time had the rig and deckplan dimensions for all the Beneteau models including the location of the sheet block tracks etc. (early 2000's when setting my 461 for Newport-Bermuda ETC, also made custom and wonderful Pentex primary sails for me to replace OEM with better, plus spinnaker assortment) (and still may be, just my 54 came from France with French "Incidences" sails that were immediately switched to Quantum carbon fiber since I found I was so unhappy with the Incidences OEM sails compared to the Neil Pryde OEM and then Neil Pryde custom)
He made fantastic trysail (storm main) and storm jib out of solid orange fabric for my 461. Added LARGE diameter sheets of solid black and ready to go. Some suggestions to note:
stormjib, had made with both a luff tape, and grommets along luff so that it could be hoisted in furler if furler usable and primary jib was removed, or lashed with line around the furled headsail and hoisted, or use oversize stainless "carabiners" to clip to forestay bare. Best of all three worlds by simply luff tape, add grommets every 14-16", and buy a bunch of the stainless carabiners that will be used perhaps (1) time for test and removed
stormjib sheet leads- the clew on a storm jib is usually quite high, not a deck sweeper. therefore being in the small projection range (guidance from sailmaker and abiding relevant racing rules from IMC/ORC/etc when appropriate) usually it can use current lead tracks. Sailmaker may ask you to measure bow end of forestay to forward and aft ends of tracks, and how "outboard" from centerline the tracks are at each end if those measurements are not handy already for them. They may need to raise clew a foot or so to get the lead angle right, but no problem. Nobody wants to sail close hauled and heeled hard in storm conditions, so hight of clew for sail twist is the operative goal.
trysail -Get a sail racing number from the boat for trivial cost from US Sailing if you don't have one, and have the "US xxxxx" put on the trysail in the 18" tall high contrast block letters. Amazingly helpful to coast guard who in fact can look up by sail number reference when seen in storms, and know the boat they see is or is not the one needing their help. reading boat names on hulls from a helicopter or bouncing patrol vessel in a storm is not practical, reading black 18" high block numbers of 5 digits on an orange sail is such a relief, trust me (USCG aux boat crew myself) (and if reference not handy, radio discussion quickly asking "are you with orange sail US XXXXX?" is instant)
trysail - you want a separate track I'd suggest. Instead of removing your current main, and the track cars if halyard raised, or no other choice if a furling main, adding a track to the mast was a SIMPLE DIY job that a 7th grader could do in one day with a friend to hoist in bosun chair from main halyard (4) times. (3) or (2) if you are fanatic about having every tool with you entire time and want to drill/tape/lanacote/screw each bolt start to finish rather than doing each step in stages track long). with care to not randomly drill holes all over the mast. Hoist and drill a top hole for the extremely simple track. Then use a simple tap&die tool to "thread" the specific hold size to the correct thread size for the bolts you will "screw" the track to the mast. Simply knowing the screw size will tell you which tap size $10 purchase and what drill bit to use). Then go down, get the first section of track, hoist up and "screw" it to the mast. Then lower down the track drill and tap every other hole, then top to bottom the remaining ones. THen go back with no tool but a screw driver, remove each bolt, lanacote anti-corrosion each bolt and rescrew. If anal, would have put electrical tape down the back of the stainless track before erecting it, and pre-drlled a hole through tape for the top hole ease, which each subsequent easily drilled while drilling the mast. Caution heard from other people who forgot - remove current main before doing this, the drilling debris is the important part that "outsourcing" the job will say doesn't matter but is huge. tiny drill shards of aluminum in the sail fibers, track cars and bearings, and furling line are bad for them. Get all removed as the longest part of the entire process, and use a hose to rinse everything before refitting. Track was cheap from defender 7/8", slugs for that were cheap of course. Heard there are slugs that "fit" furling slots but I don't know those.
BOTH use larger than normal sheet sizes, permanently rigged to the sails to be ready for use. Larger than normal as wind on handling will be touch with 7/16 line as is common for normal use main sheet. Go for 5/8 at least or you will swear at yourself if ever needed. 3/4" better. Seriously.
Mark Melvin
Oceanis 54 'devocean'
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2015 20:05:50 -0700
From: saila...@gmail.com
To: benetea...@googlegroups.com
Subject: {Beneteau Owners} Beneteau Oceanis 40 (2009) - sail sizes
He made fantastic trysail (storm main) and storm jib out of solid orange fabric for my 461. Added LARGE diameter sheets of solid black and ready to go. Some suggestions to note:
stormjib, had made with both a luff tape, and grommets along luff so that it could be hoisted in furler if furler usable and primary jib was removed, or lashed with line around the furled headsail and hoisted, or use oversize stainless "carabiners" to clip to forestay bare. Best of all three worlds by simply luff tape, add grommets every 14-16", and buy a bunch of the stainless carabiners that will be used perhaps (1) time for test and removed
stormjib sheet leads- the clew on a storm jib is usually quite high, not a deck sweeper. therefore being in the small projection range (guidance from sailmaker and abiding relevant racing rules from IMC/ORC/etc when appropriate) usually it can use current lead tracks. Sailmaker may ask you to measure bow end of forestay to forward and aft ends of tracks, and how "outboard" from centerline the tracks are at each end if those measurements are not handy already for them. They may need to raise clew a foot or so to get the lead angle right, but no problem. Nobody wants to sail close hauled and heeled hard in storm conditions, so hight of clew for sail twist is the operative goal.
trysail -Get a sail racing number from the boat for trivial cost from US Sailing if you don't have one, and have the "US xxxxx" put on the trysail in the 18" tall high contrast block letters. Amazingly helpful to coast guard who in fact can look up by sail number reference when seen in storms, and know the boat they see is or is not the one needing their help. reading boat names on hulls from a helicopter or bouncing patrol vessel in a storm is not practical, reading black 18" high block numbers of 5 digits on an orange sail is such a relief, trust me (USCG aux boat crew myself) (and if reference not handy, radio discussion quickly asking "are you with orange sail US XXXXX?" is instant)
trysail - you want a separate track I'd suggest. Instead of removing your current main, and the track cars if halyard raised, or no other choice if a furling main, adding a track to the mast was a SIMPLE DIY job that a 7th grader could do in one day with a friend to hoist in bosun chair from main halyard (4) times. (3) or (2) if you are fanatic about having every tool with you entire time and want to drill/tape/lanacote/screw each bolt start to finish rather than doing each step in stages track long). with care to not randomly drill holes all over the mast. Hoist and drill a top hole for the extremely simple track. Then use a simple tap&die tool to "thread" the specific hold size to the correct thread size for the bolts you will "screw" the track to the mast. Simply knowing the screw size will tell you which tap size $10 purchase and what drill bit to use). Then go down, get the first section of track, hoist up and "screw" it to the mast. Then lower down the track drill and tap every other hole, then top to bottom the remaining ones. THen go back with no tool but a screw driver, remove each bolt, lanacote anti-corrosion each bolt and rescrew. If anal, would have put electrical tape down the back of the stainless track before erecting it, and pre-drlled a hole through tape for the top hole ease, which each subsequent easily drilled while drilling the mast. Caution heard from other people who forgot - remove current main before doing this, the drilling debris is the important part that "outsourcing" the job will say doesn't matter but is huge. tiny drill shards of aluminum in the sail fibers, track cars and bearings, and furling line are bad for them. Get all removed as the longest part of the entire process, and use a hose to rinse everything before refitting. Track was cheap from defender 7/8", slugs for that were cheap of course. Heard there are slugs that "fit" furling slots but I don't know those.
BOTH use larger than normal sheet sizes, permanently rigged to the sails to be ready for use. Larger than normal as wind on handling will be touch with 7/16 line as is common for normal use main sheet. Go for 5/8 at least or you will swear at yourself if ever needed. 3/4" better. Seriously.
Mark Melvin
Oceanis 54 'devocean'
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2015 20:05:50 -0700
From: saila...@gmail.com
To: benetea...@googlegroups.com
Subject: {Beneteau Owners} Beneteau Oceanis 40 (2009) - sail sizes
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Largest Beneteau group, over **1086** members and growing.
To post to this group, send email to Benetea...@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send email to Beneteau-Owne...@googlegroups.com
For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/Beneteau-Owners
contact denny.we...@gmail.com, or ume...@comcast.net if you have a list management question
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