BMW R1100R Problems

Tony

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Aug 6, 2001, 7:42:42 PM8/6/01

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Well I had hoped that I owned the one R1100R without electrical problems but
it seems perhaps not. Anyone got any suggestions for these symptoms:

1. Washed bike on Sunday.
2. Rode to work Monday morning. ABout 15 minutes into ride engine cuts
while travelling along at 30-40kmh. Leave bike sitting idle for 10 mins or
so and bike starts again - think nothing of it and away we go.
3. Get back on bike in afternoon, bike starts no trouble. Get half way
home. Engine cuts. Leave 10 mins. Engine turns over no trouble but won't
start. Leave for an hour and bike starts. Get further 1km up road and bike
stops with splutter. So then I actually manage to get the thing to fire up
by giving it heaps of throttle during ignition and get a ways up the road
before she stops. Eventually I get it home.

I am getting some funny "shorting" sounding noises from near the right
cylinder which I figure is probably the fuel injectors. So the problem
might be a loose connection somewhere. The other thing I thought was that
maybe I have a fuel blockage somewhere.

Tim, you had a problem like this a while ago right? What did it turn out to
be for you? Any suggestions?

The other thing was that I have read about some non-dealer BMW mechanic
somewhere who people like. What was that guy's name again and where can I
find him?

Cheers,
Tony

glitch1

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Aug 6, 2001, 7:57:04 PM8/6/01

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Hi
check the coil under the tank or thereabouts. Had one years ago with a crack
in the housing and it kept shortening out intermittently after washing/
rain/ morning dew.
Had the same trouble as described.
...just a thought.
Cheers
Pete

"Tony" <ton_and_...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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Tim Moran

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Aug 6, 2001, 9:54:39 PM8/6/01

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Tony <ton_and_...@hotmail.com> sprouted the following:

My problem was that there was no power getting up to the kill switch,
and hence not getting anywere near the ignition system from there, I
fixed it by soldering a wire to feed power in from the starter circuit,
I've been meaning to go back in and find where the real problem was but
apathy has beaten me so far, doesn't sound like the same problem, as
mine wouldn't even turn over.

Tim

Bob Jewell

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Aug 7, 2001, 2:29:48 AM8/7/01

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In article <zTHb7.7597$V5.1...@news1.rivrw1.nsw.optushome.com.au>,
t...@evilbastard.org wrote:

Here is a reply I got some time back that may be of help:

Here's another one, happened to me years ago on an '85 R65S.
Problem: No starting after cool nights outside or washing the bike,
starter
runs ok, ignition doesn't fire up. Leave bike in sunshine for 2 hours, no
more probs.
Found hairline cracks in the outer insulation of the coil, with moisture
it
shortened against the frame. BM part = $180, got second-hand $15 coil off
old CB250 twin, after about 30 mins of mucking about to make it fit, it
never gave me trouble again.
Cheers
Pete

"Mike O'Connor" <mike.o...@vu.edu.au> wrote in message
news:3AAA140C...@vu.edu.au...
> Two tips I have not found in the manuals when trying to sort out BMW
> electrics. I won't tell you how long it took to work them out.
>
> 1. Total electrical failure (lights, ignition etc.) especially when you
> have just turned on the key, and all seems well until you press the
> starter only to have the whole thing die, may be caused by corrosion on
> the terminals of the starter relay (under the tank.) All power to the
> 'front end' passes through the relay via two terminals that are
> bridged. If either or both gets corroded, the dodgy connection can cut
> power to the lights, ignition etc.
>
> Solution. Clean the terminals. I also added a by-pass to feed power
> directly from the battery to one of the permanently live spare spade
> terminals inside the headlight (no 30 from memory on my bike).
>
> 2. Failure to charge battery. In my case it was characterised by a
> charging light that stayed on until over 2000 rpm, then glowed faintly.
> And a battery that went flat regularly and quickly.
>
> The voltmeter on the bike (yes, it has one.. on the dashboard) went west
> just before christmas, so I didn't have that diagnostic available while
> moving.
>
> I've replaced it now.
>
> Diagnostic testing according to the manual showed that the alternator
> and regulator were fine, but that the diode board was faulty. Having
> replaced it twice in recent months, I was not pleased. Decided to pull
> the board out and have a look.
>
> Lo and behold, one of the three connectors that brings power from the
> alternator windings to the diode board was corroded. Badly. The heat
> from the current trying to get past a high resistance connection had
> damaged the diode board a bit.
>
> I pulled the cables out, and made up a new set, using suitable heavy
> duty wire and matching connectors.
>
> Works like a treat.
>
> What worries me is that the corroded connector looks like it has been
> that way for a while. I may not have had to replace that last $200
> diode board........
>
> The way the connector hooks up to the diode board, you would need to be
> a contortionist to look down into the connector and see the damage,
> unless it is extreme.
>
> Hope this saves someone else some unnecessary expense and lots of wasted
> time.
>
> Mike
> R100RS
--
Bob Jewell e-Mail : raje...@mac.com

Martin

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Aug 7, 2001, 4:48:10 AM8/7/01

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On Tue, 7 Aug 2001 09:42:42 +1000, "Tony"
<ton_and_...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>
<snippo>

>
>The other thing was that I have read about some non-dealer BMW mechanic
>somewhere who people like. What was that guy's name again and where can I
>find him?

Possibly referring to Ray Peake, from Canungra in Qld.
Ph (07) 5543 5962. Recommended.

Martin
Canberra

Peter James Sanders

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Aug 7, 2001, 5:33:24 AM8/7/01

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Sounds like the bike runs OK from cold. That probably means that it is
at the change in the mode of your injection computer from cold mode
to hot mode that your trouble occurs. I had this trouble in a car and it
has similar syptoms. I hope this is NOT the problem. The computers are
expensive and are generally not repaired but replaced entire.

Tony <ton_and_...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3b6f2b95$1...@news.comindico.com.au...
>

Alan Pennykid

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Aug 7, 2001, 7:33:04 AM8/7/01

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Sounds like a blocked fuel filter to me, R1100s are very sensitive to it and
its not the first one I've heard where its stopped the bike. Unfortunately,
it's also a bitch of a job to replace.

The mechanic you're referring to is probably Ray Peake in QLD, ask John
Olive for details.

Al

"Tony" <ton_and_...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3b6f2b95$1...@news.comindico.com.au...

:
: Well I had hoped that I owned the one R1100R without electrical problems

:
:
:
:

Alan Pennykid

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Aug 7, 2001, 7:35:19 AM8/7/01

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No, the BMW Motronic system on R1100 models has no automatic enrichment, the
'choke' is manual.

Al
(check the fuel filter)

"Peter James Sanders" <pe...@blackforest.cable.nu> wrote in message
news:EBOb7.98097$Xr6.4...@news-server.bigpond.net.au...
: Sounds like the bike runs OK from cold. That probably means that it is

: >
: >
: >
: >
:
:

Tony

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Aug 7, 2001, 5:13:44 PM8/7/01

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Thanks all for ideas. Although fuel pump was first thing I thought, the
coil thing certainly sounds like a possibility because I was getting a
definite shorting type of sound. I'll take a look during the weekend and
report back.

Shame that Ray's in Queensland. I am sure ghostriders would like my money
but.....

Thanks again
Tony

"Tony" <ton_and_...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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>

glitch1

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Aug 7, 2001, 6:45:30 PM8/7/01

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If you're in Vic, see either Southbank BMW (they're supposed to be good) or
Ringwood M'cycles on Heatherdale Rd., this guy's got a really good rep for
decent work on BMs (he's also a Beemer nut, which helps).
Cheers
pete

"Tony" <ton_and_...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

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