Wiper arm removal - cable seized?

[rlyo...@aol.com]

I thought my wiper motor was bad, had hi-lo speed power to the motor but it did not work. I took it off the car, ran power to the terminals and both speeds worked so my motor is good. I was surprised to see a rectangular metal block secured to the end of the cable and saw that the gear drive actually moved that rectangle back and forth, creating the movement for the wiper arms.

This cable is seized tight, won't budge; my wiper arms are also immovable/locked in place. I believe the issue is with a seized cable. I can barely see an arm from underneath. I am assuming that I must remove at least the cable, most likely the entire mechanism.

Has anyone done this, and if so, what are your hints for the fix? IF the dash has to be removed, is there more than two bolts (one on each end) to remove it? Or, can the center "cluster" be removed for access and ultimate removal of the arms/cable assembly? I have a dual motor heater/blower - is that included in the removal of items? I don't know where the heater core is but most likely in the blower area/contained?

Hopefully someone will chime in with some ideas, at least how to remove the dash panel. I look forward to your inputs.....help! Bob

[suntennis]

I had the entire wiper system apart and remember a few things. As I recall, the cable attached to the wiper motor is moved back and forth by the motor. This cable is attached to each wiper blade assembly and therefore makes it impossible to move the blade attachment unless all blade assemblies are free and the motor is detached. The cable moves inside tubes of which there are 4. The tubes are secured to each wiper blade unit and the motor. When  I worked on mine, the dash and wires were removed but I would guess you can have access to the blade units by removing the center instrument panel. The heater does have a blower inside the box. If you drop the dash, there are three nuts that secure it. The center nut is is off center. If you drop the dash you will also need to drop the steering shaft that has two bolts holding it up. When these bolts are removed the steering column should drop some. If it does not drop enough, then the steering shaft will have to be disconnected from the steering U joint. My car is an early model. if you have the later model, there may be some changes. Hope this helps....... Dana

[rlyo...@aol.com]

Dana.....thanks much for your input on repairing your wiper system; I FINALLY was able to remove my wiper assembly (had to drop dash, remove defrost vents for access (req'd removal of windshield to get at vent trim screws on top of dash) and put the assembly on the bench for servicing. Much to my dismay, I confirmed that the cable was unmoveable in any of the 4 tubes - to remove them, I had to "thread/turn" them off! I then cleaned them with carb cleaner and diesel fuel using a steel round brush. The cable was also cleaned and all three wiper post assemblies were cleaned and serviced (they rotated fairly easily but much better after servicing). 

I then started to insert the cable into the cleaned tube(s) only to find that the tubes had been clamped down too hard and actually crimped the tube such that the cable would not slide through the tube (all of them!!). So, now I need to replace the tubes, whose total length is roughly 31". They appear to be thin wall tubing with an approximate inside diameter of .250". I have done an initial search for thin wall tubing w/o success - do you know of a source for original style tubing? Might save me some time! I don't think I am the only one that has had this issue so am asking all out there for help on this one.....please! Thanks again for your help Dana.    Bob

[virdana]

Bob,

Some people really know how to have fun. I would have thought the problem was not with with the tubes and cable. The tubes are 1/4 or 5/16 inch diameter. I replaced all of mine and got the material from a auto parts store. You can use the steel brake tubes with fittings on them then cut to length. As I recall the center section of tube has a small bend to it. On assembly you will probably use some grease. Job well done.

Dana

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[odl...@twc.com]

I can't verify dimensions etc but the MGB had this same arrangement. Check it out:

OEM MG MGB Windshield Wiper Wheel Boxes + Linkage + Motor LUCAS 72852A 75652J | eBay

This image from: EnglishParts.com

5850 Stadium Dr, Kalamazoo, MI 49009

-----------------------------------------

From: "virdana"
To: auror...@googlegroups.com
Cc:
Sent: Thursday February 18 2021 9:17:54AM
Subject: Re: [auroracobra] Re: Wiper arm removal - cable seized?

Bob,

Some people really know how to have fun. I would have thought the problem was not with with the tubes and cable. The tubes are 1/4 or 5/16 inch diameter. I replaced all of mine and got the material from a auto parts store. You can use the steel brake tubes with fittings on them then cut to length. As I recall the center section of tube has a small bend to it. On assembly you will probably use some grease. Job well done.

Dana

-----Original Message-----
From: "'rlyo..@aol.com' via AuroraCobra"
Sent: Feb 18, 2021 6:48 AM
To: AuroraCobra
Subject: [auroracobra] Re: Wiper arm removal - cable seized?

Dana.....thanks much for your input on repairing your wiper system; I FINALLY was able to remove my wiper assembly (had to drop dash, remove defrost vents for access (req'd removal of windshield to get at vent trim screws on top of dash) and put the assembly on the bench for servicing. Much to my dismay, I confirmed that the cable was unmoveable in any of the 4 tubes - to remove them, I had to "thread/turn" them off! I then cleaned them with carb cleaner and diesel fuel using a steel round brush. The cable was also cleaned and all three wiper post assemblies were cleaned and serviced (they rotated fairly easily but much better after servicing). 

I then started to insert the cable into the cleaned tube(s) only to find that the tubes had been clamped down too hard and actually crimped the tube such that the cable would not slide through the tube (all of them!!). So, now I need to replace the tubes, whose total length is roughly 31". They appear to be thin wall tubing with an approximate inside diameter of .250". I have done an initial search for thin wall tubing w/o success - do you know of a source for original style tubing? Might save me some time! I don't think I am the only one that has had this issue so am asking all out there for help on this one.....please! Thanks again for your help Dana.    Bob

On Tuesday, February 16, 2021 at 12:42:21 AM UTC-5 suntennis wrote:

I had the entire wiper system apart and remember a few things. As I recall, the cable attached to the wiper motor is moved back and forth by the motor. This cable is attached to each wiper blade assembly and therefore makes it impossible to move the blade attachment unless all blade assemblies are free and the motor is detached. The cable moves inside tubes of which there are 4. The tubes are secured to each wiper blade unit and the motor. When  I worked on mine, the dash and wires were removed but I would guess you can have access to the blade units by removing the center instrument panel. The heater does have a blower inside the box. If you drop the dash, there are three nuts that secure it. The center nut is is off center. If you drop the dash you will also need to drop the steering shaft that has two bolts holding it up. When these bolts are removed the steering column should drop some. If it does not drop enough, then the steering shaft will have to be disconnected from the steering U joint. My car is an early model. if you have the later model, there may be some changes. Hope this helps...... Dana

On Monday, February 15, 2021 at 5:05:13 PM UTC-7 rlyo..@aol.com wrote:

I thought my wiper motor was bad, had hi-lo speed power to the motor but it did not work. I took it off the car, ran power to the terminals and both speeds worked so my motor is good. I was surprised to see a rectangular metal block secured to the end of the cable and saw that the gear drive actually moved that rectangle back and forth, creating the movement for the wiper arms.

This cable is seized tight, won't budge; my wiper arms are also immovable/locked in place. I believe the issue is with a seized cable. I can barely see an arm from underneath. I am assuming that I must remove at least the cable, most likely the entire mechanism.

Has anyone done this, and if so, what are your hints for the fix? IF the dash has to be removed, is there more than two bolts (one on each end) to remove it? Or, can the center "cluster" be removed for access and ultimate removal of the arms/cable assembly? I have a dual motor heater/blower - is that included in the removal of items? I don't know where the heater core is but most likely in the blower area/contained?

Hopefully someone will chime in with some ideas, at least how to remove the dash panel. I look forward to your inputs.....help! Bob

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[rlyo...@aol.com]

For some reason I am having trouble posting here, finally guessed that I was on the right track with this reply; I could not get the wipers to work using the brake line tubing on all three segments, but did find that when I installed the drivers side and center wiper ass'y the motor would work fine with the right hand wiper ass'y hanging loose. When I installed that wiper, all would lock up! Tried slight bend in the tubing between center and RH wiper but still would not work. So, I ordered a hard bakelite precision tube that had a bit of flex to it and it worked fine....at least for now. Most likely the wipers will never be used but resolving the problem was an issue with me. Done now, and dash etc. is back together.

Next issue: car had LED Cobra-style tail lights installed when I purchased it - front turn signal lamps lit up with brakes on and the turn signals both lit up front and rear with either turn signal "on". Problem here was not within my expertise....finally installed diodes in the tail light harness in each of the brake and turn wires thinking it would eliminate the potential backfeed? Nope....I finally figured out that the turn signals were independent of the brake lights (recall the orig tail lights had an ember lens for turns) and there was no way I would be able to figure out how to make the turn signal work with the brake light on using these LED lamps. Seems that the LED tail lights were not going to work for me!

So, I ordered a new pair of standard bulb tail lights with one 1157 dual element bulb - the bright one for brakes and dimmer one for running/tail lights. I still needed another "bright" bulb for the turn signals so decided to order/install small LED bright lamp for those, one in each tail light. They are on order and not here yet but believe I finally did resolve this issue...chalk up another success (almost).

I am awaiting word from the upholstery shop regarding an appointment to have carpeting installed in the cabin and trunk....THEN my Aurora Cobra will finally be DONE...YES! 

Thanks again to all that have helped me out on the various problems encountered during my brief ownership....and thanks Dana for that single windshield screw you sent me free of charge. Ain't these guys great? I think so....Bob, owner #087 and still having fun!

[comp...@cox.net]

I previously owner Aurora #156 and had problems getting a good ground. The lack of a strong ground results in all kinds of electrical problems. I finally anchored a cable to the frame and established a ground at the negative battery terminal. That seemed to eliminate many of the intermittent electrical problems.

 

John Perry

San Juan Capistrano, CA

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[virdana]

Bob,

On the turn light problem, I question if the problem is the turn switch unless someone has messed with the wiring.

Dana

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