Gauging interest in tig welding

[Joseph Ngo]

Chris Robison owns the tig welder at the space. He is going to have a class next weekend. I don't have a specific time yet. I figure a $20 donation makes Chris happy. Also Chris will not supply the tungsten  electrode.

Let me know if your interested?

[Jaime Carrera]

I am interested but I'm busy in the mornings. What time do you think the classes will be held?

Thanks,
Jaime

On Mar 22, 2015 11:17 AM, "Joseph Ngo" <josep...@gmail.com> wrote:

Chris Robison owns the tig welder at the space. He is going to have a class next weekend. I don't have a specific time yet. I figure a $20 donation makes Chris happy. Also Chris will not supply the tungsten  electrode.

Let me know if your interested?

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[Joseph Ngo]

I'm working the class around Chris's  schedule. I will let everyone  know soon.

[mongoose.dog]

Very interested.  Should we find our own Al plate as well?

Also, at the moment I'm completely open time-wise.

[Manuel Hernandez]

Very Interested, and can make time whenever.

So count me in.

--

[Joseph Ngo]

Tig group,

Kevin pointed out that we need some scrap AL  to weld. You can get some from the drop zone at Metals4U. I'm working on getting the time and date set.

[mbh...@gmail.com]

Sounds good, any min or max on size requirements?

Sent from my iPhone

[Joseph Ngo]

I think 2 pieces of AL approximately 12" x 2" x 1/8" thick. Let me know if anyone has any questions?

[Chris Robison]

Bear in mind that TIG welding is a bit involved to learn, and it takes
a while to just get the process figured out, even in the easiest
cases. It's not point-and-shoot like MIG welding.

For both beginners and those who already know how to TIG weld, it
makes the most sense to focus the first "class" on TIG welding mild
steel. It puddles easily, flows more-or-less predictably, heat stays
relatively local so it doesn't require a lot of power, doesn't have
crazy contamination and oxidation issues to the extent that aluminum
does, and in general just behaves better. And for those who already
know how to weld, the class would be useful as a simple introduction
to my particular machine and how to use its controls.

I think TIG welding aluminum is an advanced topic for those who want
to learn it, that really belongs in a different session appropriate
for those who have already demonstrated proficiency at welding steel.

BTW, I'm still trying to figure out a workable time for this, updates soon...

--c

[mongoose.dog]

Well, Chris, I'm down for learning on steel first, and then working towards aluminum later.   Like I said, anytime this weekend is good for me, just one question:  There seem to be a bunch of types of electrodes, what type should I (we) get and where do we get them locally?  I imagine HF, Grainger, maybe Home Depot/Lowes?

[Quinten Rhea Art]

Thanks,
Definitely interested in all things Metal and welding related.
Keep me posted. 

On Mar 22, 2015 11:17 AM, "Joseph Ngo" <josep...@gmail.com> wrote:

Chris Robison owns the tig welder at the space. He is going to have a class next weekend. I don't have a specific time yet. I figure a $20 donation makes Chris happy. Also Chris will not supply the tungsten  electrode.

Let me know if your interested?

--

[Danny Miller]

I'd like to get in on this too, what electrodes?

Danny

[Joseph Ngo]

I will drop by a welding shop for tig electrode recommendation

[Joseph Ngo]

I talked to someone at a welding shop. He said a tungsten tip for steel and tungsten tip for aluminum  are different. He quoted about $3 a peice.

[Sundeep Arole]

I'm interested too. I have a non member friend I'd like to invite as well if that is acceptable.

[Danny Miller]

Disclaimer- I am not knowledgeable in this area.  I'm just parroting what I got told.

OK so I talked to Texas Welding Supply.  The tips aren't specific to the machine's model, but vary with the job.  This is "simplest job you can do".  He said 3/32" electrode for steel and 1/8" for aluminum.  The sub-option there is conventional pure tungsten electrodes for $4 or the newer E3 electrodes for $6.  The E3 is more versatile and does mild steel/stainless/aluminum.  Not clear what the pure tungsten's limitation is.

On top of that, we need the actual filler rod that gets consumed by adding into the weld.  3/32 steel $3.40/lb aluminum $5.64, and that obviously must be the same metal as being welded.

Danny

[Joseph Ngo]

Thanks for the info

[David M]

I was waiting for Chris to chime in here, he should ultimately be the
one specifying the exact materials required. I have never used his
machine and don't know anything about it's particularities.

But, that won't stop me from mouthing off anyways ;)

TL;DR: I recommend 3/32 diameter 1.5 or 2% lanthanated tungstens, 4"
square 1/8" thickness mild steel coupons (squares), and 1/8" steel
filler rods for the beginner class. And a thin leather glove for your
non-dominant hand (eg the one holding the filler rod).

I bet anything that if each student has to go to the welding store to
buy their supplies, they'll all show up with different or insufficient
supplies.

Besides, filler rods come in fairly large quantities. I don't know if
you can even buy "just a handful".

I think it would be more practical to charge a "material fee" that
pays for a tungsten, a handful of filler rods, and however many
practice coupons. You pay the money when you register, the teacher
makes one run for supplies before the class is held, everyone gets the
right stuff.

Regarding the electrode types...

The electrode diameter is determined on the amperage you are using.
Thicker material = more amperage. A tiny electrode will burn right
away if you crank the power up too much, but won't give any real
penetration with insufficient current.

3/32" electrodes and 1/8" filler rods are about right for practicing
on something like 4" squares of 1/8" mild steel.

The 1.5% or 2% lanthanated tungstens are suitable for BOTH steel and
aluminum welding, and there's no radioactive dust like with the
thoriated rods. The only downside is you can't snap 'em off easily,
need to grind a little notch in it before it will snap. Otherwise it
just shatters.

Thoriated tungstens are only good for DC welding (nearly always DCEP
aka Direct Current Electrode Positive), which is what you'd be using
for steel. Not to mention the radioactive dust issue. They crack up
and fall apart when you try using them for AC welding, and don't ball
up well either. (A sharpened point is used for DC welding).

Pure tungsten electrodes on the other hand are only good for AC
welding (used for Aluminum). If you try and grind a point on one for
DC welding it just balls right up again (whereas a ball-end is what
you want for AC)

-David

[Clio Dunn]

Oh, yeah I'd definitely like to see an advanced purchase of materials made. Is there a hat we can throw it into equally, so someone can get it? David, you are so right on the prospects if we don't set it up before class.

[Chris Robison]

I'll be around making notes tonight on what needs to be acquired; Tim
and I will be picking up some materials (argon, steel, tungsten, etc)
tomorrow. FWIW, I happen to be in agreement with most of what David's
said below though I've recently been experimenting with proprietary
mixes in my tungsten electrodes. I'll probably be picking up standard 2%
lanthanated for the class though; it's what I've been using for years
(and in the beginning the people at the welding shop would look at me
funny for asking for it).

I have more filler rods than I know what to do with, but I'll be getting
some exclusively for class use.

For general use, I think people should purchase and be responsible for
their own consumables, but this is something I'm willing to discuss. My
opinion has already evolved on the matter to some extent, and it can
evolve further with community input. For the purposes of the class, I'll
pick up some basics tomorrow and deal later with whatever compensation
may be reasonable.

Finally, I need to announce a time for the class this weekend (I know
I'm really late doing this). I will be sending out another email on that
subject this evening.

--c

[David M]

Hey again... I just realized I got the glove thing backwards. It's
been years now..

It was the filler-rod hand that I didn't wear a glove on, because its
just really not necessary except maybe to cut down on UV exposure, and
gets in the way of smoothly feeding the filler rod.

The torch hand is a lot more likely to come in contact with hot metal
so the glove is pretty much essential.

Harbor Freight carries those auto-darkening helmets pretty cheap..
They make an enormous difference. The flip-up ones are awful to deal
with unless you're just watching..

> On 3/25/2015 5:38 PM, David M wrote:
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