Eye bolt for autobay?
Angie Bonser-Lain
What will the bolt be used for?
Have we gotten the information about the floor conduit layout? I have an eye bolt anchor that will sit about 2.25 inches into the floor and a closed eye bolt.
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Martin Bogomolni
Joseph Ngo
At one point there was talk about adding a removable eye bolt to the floor of the autobay for using a winch or cumberlong to pull in a disable vehicle
Angie Bonser-Lain
Cool. I like the removable idea, as we don't want another trip hazard!
How are we going about the liability for a snapping cable/failing winch drum/etc?
Angie Bonser-Lain
Or, my favorite on the trail, a failed recovery point, which will send the cable and vehicle pieces at the operator?
Joseph Ngo
I assume the force to pull a vehicle into our partial incline autobay is less than 200 lbs. I assume that a 4wd vehicle on the trail is being winched at a much steeper angle putting much more tension on the cable
Jaime Carrera
Joseph Ngo
I checked the rating for a straight pull. It is rated for 4000 lbs. The guy said I have 2000 lbs with a side pull. That is more that generous for anything that has wheels
Joseph Ngo
I looked at the chart. It says we can pull 1000lbs with the eye bolt at 90 deg. I assume most vehicle need less that 100 lbs of force to pull it up the ramp. I have not done the math on the pulling force. Just a guess from past experience
Angie Bonser-Lain
I've thought about this before, but I disregarded it for several reasons.
1.) Like Danny has pointed out prior, we're similar to a barrel of monkeys. We hope nothing will break, but hackers have a way of knocking sinks off walls, kicking down walls, lighting things on fire, and breaking over-engineered cable-driven vehicle hoists.
2.) The use case that requires an in-op vehicle in the shop is also how we ran into having 4+ non-functioning vehicles hanging around the space, some for longer than a year. We -just- got that mess cleaned up, and I'm not excited about the chance of dealing with it again.
3.) If you don't have enough people (we've done it with as little as 3) to push a vehicle into the shop, you likely don't have enough man power to get it running within the auto bay's 24hr turn-around limit (longer stays require a membership vote).
I hope this goes up for a vote with more solid numbers and reasoning behind it, before anything is purchased or altered.
/my .02
Joseph Ngo
I thought it got approved back on January. We were waiting on conduit map.
Danny Miller
I think it's gonna get in the way, and you might say "then we'll just cut it off if it's a problem", but the way things go around here, I think even if everyone's tripping over it, it'd STILL stay there for eternity while we talk amongst ourselves about removing it.
But I'm not sure how a removable idea would work. Seems like it would have a larger socket bored into the concrete, which is harder to do... and then the socket has to be somehow secured in and I'm not sure if glue fits that bill. But really what concerns me is that once a bolt is put in, it has to be properly tensioned or its strength is WAY reduced, which kinda requires some skill- but it's impossible to tension it properly in this config. See, normally you orient the eye and tighten a nut in back. But here, there's no nut, only a socket. You screw it in hand-tight and it stops aligned just how you want it- but then you have to wrench it 90 deg from the way it needs to orient, just to get it torqued down. It can't work as an eyelet except in facing one specific direction or 180 deg from that. So it's unlikely you can torque it AND make it face the right way...you could play a game swapping steel shims of various thicknesses to make it torque perfectly and face the right direction, but realistically we're not gonna do that.
I guess I'm thinking more of a thinner steel plate here, that has either a fixed slot or a hinged slot to accept a tow strap. The plate is Passloded into the concrete at multiple points. The tile will be removed there, the plate is thin, and Passlode nails don't have significant head-height, so it'll be almost flush with the surrounding floor and a rubber mat or something could go over the whole shebang so you won't trip over it. Maybe the strap will be permanently fixed onto it, or maybe not. It's an idea.
The ultimate thickness would be whatever would allow the thickness of the tow strap to pass underneath it, I guess the part slotted for a strap would be hammered upwards maybe, or maybe there'd be a second spacer plate underneath- that's probably easier. The plate with the slot's thickness is not so much determined by breaking strength but rather how thick the slot's inner edge would have to be so it won't cut into the strap.
Like... like a seat belt mounting point. Actually a proper seat belt mounting point can withstand like a 3500 lb shock load, traction load on a truck's only a couple hundred lbs max. A seat belt buckle's not a bad idea, but the bolt head would stick up, Maybe weld a seat belt to a passloded plate??
Danny