Lulzbot Taz Status

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Andrew Ricke

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Apr 12, 2014, 7:23:24 PM4/12/14
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I re-leveled the print table successfully.  The x-axis crossbar was racked out of alignment from the 2 z-axis motors.  Good news is that the Taz is extremely tolerant to being racked like that, the bad news is that the Taz is extremely tolerant to being racked like that.  Don't turn the z axis motors by hand at all or try to move the z-axis manually.

Getting the bed level meant I had to take the fan off.  Its attachment hits the corner clamp on the +X, +Y side.  Anything larger than 250x250mm (of the 275x275 print area) will likely have to worry about that with the fan attachment on.

I tried a test print for the bed leveling and that went fine.  However, when trying to use a different gcode to actually print something of size and thickness, I started having problems.  The extruder head kept jamming up.  Scott and I went thru and just not sure what setting was not correct that was causing this.  He did notice there is PLA coming out the threaded screw of the heating print head.  We attempted to cook out the PLA stuck, but I believe there is still some left to cook out when I had to shutdown for the day.

If nobody touches it before tomorrow I'll likely fiddle with the extrusion some more. Otherwise that's the state I left it.

Deech

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Apr 12, 2014, 11:10:38 PM4/12/14
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The fan shroud shouldn't hit other than on the most extreme +x/+y moves and that's not going to be common at all. The fan really is required to be on there for printing PLA. 


This is from a thread about the pla leaking issue that is literally the first thread in the lulzbot hardware forum. Yay for easy to find! 




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Andrew Ricke

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Apr 12, 2014, 11:14:46 PM4/12/14
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Ah. Just found that myself as well as this thread about needing to cool higher on the extruder. 

Deech

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Apr 12, 2014, 11:32:53 PM4/12/14
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So, it looks like it's a common problem with the Budaschnozzle 2.0, and the total fix seems to be a dual ducted fan, with one pointing at the print and one pointing at the upper heat sink to prevent "heat creep". 

I'm really surprised that this didn't show up earlier when I did a 9 hour print with no issues. 

  


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Andrew Ricke

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Apr 12, 2014, 11:50:44 PM4/12/14
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The red fan probably was sufficient to cool both the print and extruder but I didn't start the fan yet before it jammed. Likely had it preheated too long from what I am reading. 
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Derek Sigler

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Apr 13, 2014, 10:41:45 PM4/13/14
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So three of us (meaning, not myself alone) tried to unclog the nozzle by burning the filament out.  It worked for awhile, but then the nozzle just disintegrated.  I've ordered two more.  Should be here in a few days.
2 x Budaschnozzle 2.0 Nozzle, 0.35mm - $38.00 ($19.00 each)
SKU: 817752013956
-derek

image
Budaschnozzle 2.0 Nozzle, 0.35mm | lulzbot.com
The 0.35mm nozzle is a direct swap or replacement for use on the Budaschnozzle 2.0 hot end. This nozzle is compatible with the Budaschnozzle 2.0.
Preview by Yahoo

From: Andrew Ricke <andrew...@gmail.com>
To: "arch-r...@googlegroups.com" <arch-r...@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2014 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: (Arch Reactor) Lulzbot Taz Status

Andrew Ricke

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Apr 15, 2014, 6:40:46 PM4/15/14
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Would the 0.5 nozzle be more forgiving for new print-runners?  I may order one of those for practice purposes.


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Ice

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Apr 17, 2014, 6:38:31 PM4/17/14
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A larger nozzle will produce lower quality prints but it will also use more filament due to the larger diameter.

It is also best not to swap nozzles out frequently as it can cause added stress on the machine. Things like Cross Threading and ripping out wires can occur the more often the nozzles are swapped.

If you look at the leakage occurring currently with the printer, things like swapping out the nozzle more often increase the chances of that happening around or at the heated block as the threads wear down from swapping nozzles. While high temp teflon tape helps to fix this, it is not always the best solution.
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Deech

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Apr 23, 2014, 1:30:59 AM4/23/14
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Spent some time on the TAZ tonight. Put in a fix recommended on the extruder and it seems to be doing much better now. It could still be tweaked a bit by getting the bed more precisely level, playing with the heat and speed settings. Looks like that red filament is just crappy. I used the blue at 185-200 degrees at speeds around 100 and it seems to be better, but those numbers could be tuned a little better. The white I haven't tried very much, it was fidgity when I did use it, but I only printed a small part with it. 


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Andrew Ricke

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Apr 30, 2014, 9:53:34 PM4/30/14
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After last night working on the Taz at the space we got one sucessfull TU IT coin printed, then we had to disassemble the extruded to clear another jam...  I left it clean and reassembled late last night before returning this morning.  Oddly enough, only being way from it for about 11 hours was enough to cause a need to re-level it.

Spent the better part of today working on the Taz to reliably print in PLA (particularly my orange).  The extruder head clogged again and I had to disassemble completely to clear it out.  I then revised the fan to hit the upper part of the hot end better, and when paired with not pre-heating before running a gcode, it finally was printing consistently without any clogging for several hours this afternoon.

The next problem I had to solve was getting it to print without stuttering the filament (producing thinner gaps), which I often took for it jamming again.  It wasn't jamming, but I spent all afternoon making attempts to adjust the temperature, fan, tightening and loosening the extrusion tension, and other random things to get a smooth, consistent, print.  Tighter tension seemed to help, but eventually I slowed down the feedrate manually on the machine ( to 25%) and changed the FLOW value from 100 to 120 and finally I saw solid improvement. So on slicer I am going to change the overall speeds down in general from the Luzbot Taz default config files and see if that makes different prints work well.  The picture attached you can see the results of that improvement on the 3rd one, but it does go a bit too far and has a few bulges of too much thickness now.

For the orange PLA I think the temp best was at 190/185 for the extruder and 68/60 for the bed.  Anything hotter just made it ooze and get too stringy.



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photo1.jpg
photo2.jpg
photo3.jpg

Andrew Ricke

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May 31, 2014, 6:53:45 PM5/31/14
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Thanks to a gift of a Jhead and last night, a Jhead mount, Bob and I got the new extruder mounted together for the Taz. After leveling it, it printed beautifully, everything I wanted in printing...up to a point.  The thing would print a few layers in and then it would hit a MAXTEMP error.  I think the wiring was shorting out.  The tape was wrapped too low and hitting the bed when level, so I had to adjust it.  It likely moved things too much, or they just were not right to being with.

Bob is going to bring in more kapton tape to try to see if it can be resolved.  Otherwise I don't know what would cause that error from what I am reading again online.

Andrew Ricke

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Jun 4, 2014, 5:57:37 PM6/4/14
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Maxtemp error fixed.  It was a keyboard actuator problem.

Here is the Slic3r configuration I've been running my prints on that appear to go nicely.  Set for my orange PLA.


Derek Sigler

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Jun 9, 2014, 3:15:29 PM6/9/14
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Attached is my Cura config file for the Taz3.  I printed out both sides of this auger and only had to restart once.  It's a good starting point for those wanting to get involved.
Thanks,
-derek



Taz3-Cura-Profile.ini
Auger.jpg

EschewObfuscation

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Jun 9, 2014, 4:35:23 PM6/9/14
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On Monday, June 9, 2014 2:15:29 PM UTC-5, Derek wrote:
Attached is my Cura config file for the Taz3.  I printed out both sides of this auger and only had to restart once...

Cool, that sort of pragmatic stuff is very helpful.

What's the auger to do? Is that PLA? How does one glue PLA?

Andrew Ricke

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Jun 9, 2014, 8:33:59 PM6/9/14
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Awesome!  Glad you finally got that part made well. Did you have to adjust the file from the one that was on the card Saturday?

Andrew
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<Taz3-Cura-Profile.ini>
<Auger.jpg>

Chris Weiss

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Jun 13, 2014, 2:28:20 PM6/13/14
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Andrew Ricke

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Jun 13, 2014, 8:12:53 PM6/13/14
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Yes in part. Still limited success trying the taping to work around the leaking problems. The heat ossilation/fluctuation was still occurring leading to the odd prints. 
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Andrew Ricke

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Jun 27, 2014, 11:32:29 AM6/27/14
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Thoughts on having a sign like this mounted on the Taz?  Same material as the door sign.  It would place on the front pretty much forcing you to read it to look at the extruder.

Any changes to the rules? Keep in mind I'm likely at the smallest font size I can do with the tooling I have for HDPE.
ARTAZsign.bmp

Brad Tissi

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Jun 27, 2014, 4:31:56 PM6/27/14
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At this point, I'm for more labels. I think that it'll be a bit before we reach saturation.


On Friday, June 27, 2014 10:32:29 AM UTC-5, Andy Ricke wrote:
Thoughts on having a sign like this mounted on the Taz?  Same material as the door sign.  It would place on the front pretty much forcing you to read it to look at the extruder.

Any changes to the rules? Keep in mind I'm likely at the smallest font size I can do with the tooling I have for HDPE.
On Fri, Jun 13, 2014 at 7:12 PM, Andrew Ricke <andrew...@gmail.com> wrote:
Yes in part. Still limited success trying the taping to work around the leaking problems. The heat ossilation/fluctuation was still occurring leading to the odd prints. 


On Friday, June 13, 2014, Chris Weiss <cwe...@gmail.com> wrote:

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Bob S.

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Jul 2, 2014, 12:15:07 AM7/2/14
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Printed 6.5 hour part tonight.  Print went well but had a problem removing the part.  Bottom line - Kapton tape is now removed.
Many of us print with Elmer's glue right on the glass...  If the general view is that we would rather continue to print on Kapton, I will get some large rolls to replace. 

The good news is the printer works flawlessly.  

Attached is the slic3r config files used to generate the g-code.  One change might be to increase feed rate - seemed like it could handle faster speeds.

-Bob   
lulzbotTaz3Slic3rConfig.ini

Andrew Ricke

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Aug 8, 2014, 4:17:28 PM8/8/14
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Wow, I pretty much walked in, put an STL file thru slicer, and in about 5min I was starting the print which is printing flawlessly.  I took a gamble that it was still leveled from whoever was printing the bracelet left on the printer.

It is such a great feeling to be at this point with the tool after so much tweaking process.  Thanks again to all of those who helped me get to that point.

I also used the new 1.20 experimental release of slicer.  It has a new 3D honeycomb for infil which I used at 15% infil and man, this part is rigid! I think I could do 5% and still be unbreakable.

I'm re-attaching the Rules board I want to mount on the Taz just in case there is any further objections.  I'll start carving it tomorrow now I have another HDPE sheet ready.
ARTAZsign.bmp

Derek Sigler

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Aug 8, 2014, 4:25:53 PM8/8/14
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Yeah...Well...  I spent the past two nights leveling that thing.  It takes a little work after it gets hauled around.  We'll get faster with more experience. 
-derek

Bob S.

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Aug 10, 2014, 11:24:42 PM8/10/14
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TAZ is re-re-leveled :) TAZ is printing well.  I have been printing tonight with no glue on bed and have had great results.  

Bob S.

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Dec 4, 2014, 9:42:37 PM12/4/14
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The TAZ had a fail tonight.  Whoever started the printer Thursday evening.... the print broke free from the bed and built up around the nozzle.  We managed to melt/remove all the plastic off the nozzle but the kapton tape was torn off too.  The thermistor is not secure without the tape and if that beaks free during a print, we risk a run away nozzle in terms of heat and things associated with too much heat....

I will bring some tape by in the next few days and fix it if no one beats me to it...  However, I would caution against using the 3D printer without the nozzle being fixed!!  I will put a note in it....

-Bob

Chris Weiss

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Jan 10, 2015, 5:41:02 PM1/10/15
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the files menu is super slow, and I think it's just too many files in
one folder. If you had a folder with your name, i left it, and
everything else I just put in a folder called OLD.

I propose that all gcode goes in a folder unless you're going to
delete it right away. we can a make folder for demo things too.

Robert Satchell

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Jan 10, 2015, 5:44:36 PM1/10/15
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Good idea!!!

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Deech

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Jan 11, 2015, 3:57:56 PM1/11/15
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Nobody should be storing any files on there. If there's too many, it should be expected that they can just be deleted off that card at any time. 



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Robert Kleeschulte

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Jan 11, 2015, 4:09:07 PM1/11/15
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Didn't think you can do folders. Thought it all had to be at the root of the card?

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Chris Weiss

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Jan 11, 2015, 6:37:29 PM1/11/15
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folders work fine, but please do delete stuff you know you're not
going to print again.
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