Easel+Shapeoko workshop Tuesday at 8

[Chris Weiss]

The goal of this workshop is to show some basic Easel drawing tools, how to import a ready made SVG for carving, how to trace an image, and how to carve using the Easel interface.  I will try to keep the intro short so that attendees can try carving their own designs.

The Easel interface makes simple projects very easy to carve. This isn't intended to be a full CAD/CAM/Milling class, but to become familiar with our older Shapeoko and how to make it do things without breaking anything. 

[Diane]

Chris,

Is there software we should download and install on personal laptops for this or will we be using the AR laptops?

Sounds like a fun class!

Diane  <*>

On Jun 25, 2017, at 7:33 PM, Chris Weiss <cwe...@gmail.com> wrote:

The goal of this workshop is to show some basic Easel drawing tools, how to import a ready made SVG for carving, how to trace an image, and how to carve using the Easel interface.  I will try to keep the intro short so that attendees can try carving their own designs.

The Easel interface makes simple projects very easy to carve. This isn't intended to be a full CAD/CAM/Milling class, but to become familiar with our older Shapeoko and how to make it do things without breaking anything. 

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[Chris Weiss]

Easel is web based, you can create an accoutn at  https://www.inventables.com/technologies/easel

the laptop next to the shapeoko has the "driver" needed already, but you can install it on your laptop by clicking the "Carve" button after logging in.

[Jim S]

Easel is a browser based program so you don't have anything to download.  But apparently you need to set up an account at

https://www.inventables.com/technologies/easel
If you click the "launch the app" button you will be asked to log in or register.  It appears everything is free.

I have only used easel once before for some simple movement tests at the space and didn't have to log in so I am guessing someone else had already logged in. 

Chris,  please correct any errors I may have made above and clarify how this is intended to work for the PC attached to the Shapeoko as far as accounts go.  If we make our own accounts what settings do we need to know other than the type machine the space has (Shapeoko 2)?

[Chris Weiss]

that's all correct.  the one at the space seems to be remembering my login even though i logout.  I don't have anything important on it, so I don't have have a strong concern with this if people don't mind me seeing their models :)

[Myles Farrell]

Jim,

You give us a status update on the shapeoko slipping and cooling of the chips you were working on?

On Mon, Jun 26, 2017 at 9:29 AM, Chris Weiss <cwe...@gmail.com> wrote:

that's all correct.  the one at the space seems to be remembering my login even though i logout.  I don't have anything important on it, so I don't have have a strong concern with this if people don't mind me seeing their models :)

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[Chris Weiss]

that was in another thread.  conclusion was a fan would be a good idea but they were still running within spec.

slippage seemed to do more with dirty rails.  they weren't visibly very dirty, but it didn't seem to take much.

[Jim S]

I didn't say they were running in spec.  They are burning up.  They haven't failed yet but that doesn't mean they are ok.  We really need to get a fan on them.  After it's been running a bit see how long you can hold your finger on the chips.  :)  I think the system is 24VDC so we need a 24V fan or another power supply.

On Tuesday, June 27, 2017 at 10:16:15 AM UTC-5, ||cw wrote:

that was in another thread.  conclusion was a fan would be a good idea but they were still running within spec.

slippage seemed to do more with dirty rails.  they weren't visibly very dirty, but it didn't seem to take much.

I wasn't able to conclude if the slippage was due to temp shut down or dirty rails.  They both are issues. But the temp shutdown is so high you never should rely on that.  Kind of like waiting until the oil light comes on in your car to put in more oil.  I will bring a couple of current probes so we can see what the currents are doing on a scope.  I assume we have a working scope?  I will try to get there early.

Dirty rails are also a problem.  Some shields for the side rails would help a lot IMHO.  Or regular cleaning - but that doesn't prevent buildup and jams during a job.

[Jim S]

Chris found a fan and mounted it below the board last night.  This should eliminate the heat issue but is one more cord to plug in.

Thanks for the class Chris!

[eAddict]

Yes, Chris, thanks for a good class!  I look forward to seeing what I and the others start doing with it.

On Wed, Jun 28, 2017 at 9:33 AM, Jim S <jimski...@gmail.com> wrote:

Chris found a fan and mounted it below the board last night.  This should eliminate the heat issue but is one more cord to plug in.

Thanks for the class Chris!

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[Chris Weiss]

I'm certainly no expert, but hopefully it was enough to get some of you started and then you can teach the next round :)

[eAddict]

Yup.  Thanks!

Another question.  Is there a way to do elevation changes?  I would like to carve out some bodies to do something alone the lines of this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jqIrb2wdnA (turn speakers down).  We currently resin cast a body but if I could do a car it would be quicker and cheaper.

On Wed, Jun 28, 2017 at 10:51 AM, Chris Weiss <cwe...@gmail.com> wrote:

I'm certainly no expert, but hopefully it was enough to get some of you started and then you can teach the next round :)

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[Chris Weiss]

with easel you just have to set different depths on overlapping shapes, which will leave ridges that you can sand off or putty/epoxy over to make smooth.  more full featured cad/cam tools can do it smooth, but you'd probably want a bull or ball nose endmill, which you need to tell your cam software about so it does the right thing.

[Myles Farrell]

I have a separate program that would probably be more appropriate for doing 3D milling that can save the trouble and lines of code that doing the slices a 2.5D CAM system like Easel would require. It can also calculate the remaining scallop high (ridge left by offset ball nose passes) so you can have good information for balancing machine time verse surface finish/ sanding time. Also I have been collecting all the parts for a vacuum forming tool. I believe we have all of the pieces except the nichrome wire which we can buy at the pottery store. If you want to pick this up and run with it, we can talk off line about the design I had in mind when I started gathering parts.

On Wed, Jun 28, 2017 at 2:04 PM, Chris Weiss <cwe...@gmail.com> wrote:

with easel you just have to set different depths on overlapping shapes, which will leave ridges that you can sand off or putty/epoxy over to make smooth.  more full featured cad/cam tools can do it smooth, but you'd probably want a bull or ball nose endmill, which you need to tell your cam software about so it does the right thing.

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[Jim S]

The machine is capable of 3d milling (well, it should be but it is missing some nuts to rigidly hold the Z axis from springing up and down but I think that could be fairly easily fixed - the machine design includes them).  There is a gcode sender that isn't currently loaded on the laptop but could be.  With that you can send the machine gcode from other CAM programs.  Fusion360 is a good, free (for hobby or small business) 3D CAD/CAM program that has a post processor for gbrl machine controller.  It should work together.  Height of your parts may be an issue on the Shapeoko.

Here's a link about milling out 3D parts.  Youtube should have lots more...
http://kansascitykitcompany.com/explorations-and-speculation/3d-milling

[Robert Kleeschulte]

Interesting that you brought up Michael Curry's website. Nice guy and very knowledgeable.

Hammerspace Facebook page had a good write up on the actual casting of the foam pieces.

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