Tacking the Cruising Chute?
Michael
bowsprit. What are the best methods or modifications to properly tack the
asymetrical cruising spinnaker and to prevent it interfering with the
forestay and pulpit rails. Ideas so far are pendents and sliding or
temporary bowsprits rigged ahead or to one side or the other.
Comment?
/s/ Michael
Per Elmsäter
--
Please remove the baggywrinkle to reply
Perre
"Michael" <sef...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3nh88.1345$S%.190871@news2.east.cox.net...
Michael
photos to the group instead of directly to Per.
Whoops!
"Per Elmsäter" <per.el...@telia.baggywrinkle.com> wrote in message
news:dni88.23862$l93.4...@newsb.telia.net...
Bart Senior
"Per Elmsäter" <per.el...@telia.baggywrinkle.com> wrote in message
news:dni88.23862$l93.4...@newsb.telia.net...
d parker
dp
"Michael" <sef...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3nh88.1345$S%.190871@news2.east.cox.net...
Bart Senior
multihull with a spinnaker. Both clues were
tacked, one on each hull.
It looked like the easiest possible way to fly a kite.
"d parker" <davep...@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
Michael
"d parker" <davep...@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:3c61eeb9$0$1949$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
Michael
action of moving the sail itself. I really could of used a better choice of
words though, thanks to DP on that one.
I also mispoke on using the pendant outside, I've been using it inside since
I couldnever get the sail to gybe properly the other way. It just wraps
around the forestays.
What I've been doing (from the cockpit since I'm the only one on board
usually) is partially douse the chute by pulling the sock line down then
gybing in the ordinary fashion and allowing the partially socked chute to
pass through to the other side and then once sure the boom is under control
(assuming I'm using it) pulling in the leeward sheet and pulling up the sock
so the cruising chute re-inflates. It gives me one extra line to worry
about and I have to be quick so I think through what I'm going to do in
advance andmake sure the lines are laid out properly.
However I think I've been doing something wrong since everyone else wants to
put the tack pendant on the outside of the fore stay . . . . soo . . . . . .
. now the question is:
If you have the tack on a pendant or on a sort of bowsprit outside the
forestay, how do you gybe it without it and the sheets fouling around the
forestay? I'm assuming it passes around the front during the gybe and the
sheets are laid out accordingly around the front of the forestay as well?
Methinks it's back to school time here.
/s/ Michael
"Bart Senior" <sen...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:8Mm88.4516$th4.2...@news02.optonline.net...
The_navigator©
as you gybe it so use it. I don't have a 'cruising spin' but we use our jennaker
like that. Question, why do you call it a spinnaker -is it really so
symmetrical/long luffed?
Cheers MC
Bart Senior
"Michael" <sef...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:y5n88.2305$S%.236964@news2.east.cox.net...
d parker
beam reach until we are close hauled, the go about and bare away again. Ever
tried it? I can guarantee a mess.
DP
"Oz1" <ozsa...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8gt36us49sklre5kh...@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 7 Feb 2002 14:09:55 +1100, "d parker"
> <davep...@optusnet.com.au> with a thumbnail dipped in tar wrote:
>
> >Trick question. You "never" tack a spinnaker.
> >
> >dp
>
> Sorry DP, don't get you.
pony express
actually went pretty smoothly. (light shifting wind)
--
Steve & Suzanne
S/V Pony Express
Express 30
www.express-sailing.com/owners
"d parker" <davep...@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:3c62806d$0$18473$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
Jeff Morris
Its common on cruising cats to attach the tack at the weather bow and the
sheet is run through a snatch block partway back from the lee bow. Several
PDQs have setup a "traveler" arrangement on the bow so the tack can be
pulled from side to side from the cockpit.
-jeff
"The sport that requires the least effort" Albert Einstein on Sailing
"Bart Senior" <sen...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:8Mm88.4516$th4.2...@news02.optonline.net...
d parker
size of kite etc.
DP
"pony express" <ponye...@addr.com> wrote in message
news:a3u00d$1ao02q$1...@ID-47063.news.dfncis.de...
Douglas King
I think it depends very much on the size & cut of the 'chute, and the halyard.
A lot of boats that aren't rigged for spinnakers carry it from a jib halyard,
below the forestay tang. In this case, it's better IMHO to fly it inside the
foretriangle, tacked down to the jib tack shackle on an adjustable pendant.
This would lead inside the bow pulpit too. In a gybe, the sail would blow
throught the inside of the foretriangle; using the sock would help keep it
clean.
However, doing it this way will negate one of the great benfits of the
asymmetric spinnaker, the helm balance. And I think it tends to keep it from
working well at deeper angles too. The further forward you can lead the tack
pendant, the more the sail pulls the bow downwind, thus balancing the helm...
if overdone, you get lee helm, but in this case you just need more sail area
to yank on the stern, and the boat will balance in lovely fashion and go much
faster... it's how the skiffs work ;)
If you want to rig a temporary bowsprit, it can be done fairly easily. You
need a bow eye down below the stem head, the lower the better, and big padeye
on the foredeck.... also suitable for tacking down a storm staysail. You can
use a fairly short spinnaker/whisker pole because it doesn't have to go all
the way back to the mast. The spinnaker pole is clipped to the padeye, and run
as close to straight forward as you can get it. A loose lashing can hold it to
the forestay tang and stemhead. The spinnaker tack pendant runs through the
forward pole end, down to the bow eye, and back to the cockpit so it can be
adjusted under sail. If you tack the sail right to the pole, it has to be much
stronger to resist bending, but if you use the bow eye it is all compression.
Unless you're real picky, you don't even have to shift the pole when you gybe.
But the halyard has to be above the forestay, and the sheets run around in
front of the forestay.
A short bowsprit for holding anchors also makes a dandy lead for an asymmetric
spinnaker. But it also has to be braced from below or it won't take the
stress. Think of it as if a very large helicopter were towing you from that
point.
Fresh Breezes- Doug King
pony express
Basically, the wind kept clocking forward till it had gone about 250°. We
'tacked' the spinnaker and kept going.
--
Steve & Suzanne
S/V Pony Express
Express 30
www.express-sailing.com/owners
"d parker" <davep...@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:3c6288fb$0$18472$afc3...@news.optusnet.com.au...
d parker
DP
"pony express" <ponye...@addr.com> wrote in message
news:a3u2ke$19rnhp$1...@ID-47063.news.dfncis.de...
> Express 30 (of course), 1/2 oz spin (898 sqft), 3-5k wind, crew of two.
> Basically, the wind kept clocking forward till it had gone about 250°. We
> 'tacked' the spinnaker and kept going.
> --
>
>
> Steve & Suzanne
> S/V Pony Express
> Express 30
> www.express-sailing.com/owners
snip
Michael
spinnaker, or a sort of cross between a gennie and spinnaker, uses no poles
has one tack and one clew and if you can't gybe single handed isn't made
right. I'm just trying to figure out a better way to do it.
"The_navigator©" <farr...@excite.com> wrote in message
news:3C620DCD...@excite.com...
Michael
sheet has to then go around the boat and almost half way back again?
Definitely a lot of line!
"Bart Senior" <sen...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:0Gp88.5821$th4.2...@news02.optonline.net...
Flying Tadpole
> If you want to rig a temporary bowsprit, it can be done fairly easily. You
> need a bow eye down below the stem head, the lower the better, and big padeye
> on the foredeck.... also suitable for tacking down a storm staysail. You can
> use a fairly short spinnaker/whisker pole because it doesn't have to go all
> the way back to the mast. The spinnaker pole is clipped to the padeye, and run
> as close to straight forward as you can get it. A loose lashing can hold it to
> the forestay tang and stemhead. The spinnaker tack pendant runs through the
> forward pole end, down to the bow eye, and back to the cockpit so it can be
> adjusted under sail. If you tack the sail right to the pole, it has to be much
> stronger to resist bending, but if you use the bow eye it is all compression.
<snip>
> A short bowsprit for holding anchors also makes a dandy lead for an asymmetric
> spinnaker. But it also has to be braced from below or it won't take the
> stress. Think of it as if a very large helicopter were towing you from that
> point.
Thanks Doug. one day I'll pluck up the courage to set the reaching
spinnaker on Lady Kate, tho' it won't be when I'm singlehanding
her...set up is very close to this but the pole is long and is back to
the mast.
Tim & Flying Tadpole
Mike Fulmor
the boats in our charter fleet that have cruising chutes use a line through
a block at the stem fitting, more or less like a foreguy would work, and
attach the tack to that. Then if you want to let the sail "balloon" more in
the right conditions you can give it slack, or if you want it flat, or while
jibing, cinch it up. Just another string to pull...
BTW, do you use a whisker pole on that thing while sailing wing 'n wing? ;0)
Mike
"Michael" <sef...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:lLz88.3433$S%.307442@news2.east.cox.net...
Bart Senior
practice your knots and tie up your girlfriend
"Michael" <sef...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:kMz88.3436$S%.307603@news2.east.cox.net...
Michael
a pole. Whole point, as far as I know, of the crusing
chute/genniker/assymetrical is you don't need a pole. If winging then
opposite that I would have either the main, or if it's furled or reefed down
to be a riding sail, then either the four hanked reacher or a 140 poled out
the other way but I rarely go that far as the winds are not steady enough to
make it worth while. I've got a regular spinnaker but it's way too much
trouble to use with only one on board so I'm saving that for later.
In short more than two sails and all the extra rigging is a bit much even
with auto tiller so the crusing spinnaker/main makes life a lot easier
especially if I have to change course by gybing.
Until I can afford longer sheets I guess I'll just keep doing what I'm doing
. . .as one other mentioned . .. . and treat it like a gybing jib.
/s/ Michael
"Mike Fulmor" <mfu...@gte.net> wrote in message
news:OAC88.2052$7O.4...@paloalto-snr1.gtei.net...
Michael
"Bart Senior" <sen...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:pZC88.8195$th4.4...@news02.optonline.net...
d parker
DP
"Oz1" <ozsa...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:d4p56u05006ht5vut...@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 8 Feb 2002 00:31:36 +1100, "d parker"
> <davep...@optusnet.com.au> with a thumbnail dipped in tar wrote:
>
> >You can only ever Gybe a kite. To tack it means we have to come up
through a
> >beam reach until we are close hauled, the go about and bare away again.
Ever
> >tried it? I can guarantee a mess.
> >
> >
> >DP
>
> Rubbish!
> In my old dinghy days before they brought in that rule about working
> sails we used to carry spinnakers uphill in light air tacking and end
> for ending poles.
> It's actually quite easy.
> Pop the pole off the mast at the same time as you go head to wind so
> the kite drapes around the forestay.
> Clip the pole onto the new brace and push it out as the skipper eases
> the brace to keep the pole on the forestay and trims the kite
> slightly.
> Pole on mast, trim kite and squeeze back up to heading.
> A flat reacher is used as were all kites in the old days with Olympic
> triangles.
d parker
> On Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:20:01 +1100, "d parker"
> <davep...@optusnet.com.au> with a thumbnail dipped in tar wrote:
>
> >OK, lets go do it on the Etchells in say....12-15 knots.
> >
> >DP
>
>
Gotcha
hehehe
DP
d parker
> On Fri, 8 Feb 2002 19:46:25 +1100, "d parker"
> <davep...@optusnet.com.au> with a thumbnail dipped in tar wrote:
>
> >
> >"Oz1" <ozsa...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >news:9m666uo2cvjjgltfa...@4ax.com...
> >> On Fri, 8 Feb 2002 11:20:01 +1100, "d parker"
> >> <davep...@optusnet.com.au> with a thumbnail dipped in tar wrote:
> >>
> >> >OK, lets go do it on the Etchells in say....12-15 knots.
> >> >
> >> >DP
> >>
> >> Nah, 5 to 10 maybe.
> >>
> >
> >Gotcha
> >
> >hehehe
> >
> >DP
> >
>
I realise that. It would be very messy in 20-25 for instance. I was trying
to prove it is not a conventional method of altering tack when a kite is up.
Change of subject. Have you had anything to do with Endeavours in the past?
I had a look at a 26 on Thursday. Main only 2yrs, No 1 only one yr. New
elects, old diesel and the list goes on. Thinking of letting my boat go and
moving on the Endeavour. I just don't know what are the usual "endeavour"
faults. I will be getting a survey on it regardless (if I go ahead) but
would be curious to know what to look for before hand. Any ideas?
DP
d parker
> As far as I'm aware they are virtually faultless afa design goes and
> construction is bullet proof.
> Ring David McKAY at Endeavour Boatshed Sans Souci
> 9529 4167 or 9529 8596
> and talk to him, he might even have a couple for sale. He's raced them
> quite a bit in the past winning quite a few titles in his boat called
> Imperium so he'll knowwht falls off and what breaks.
> He's a past Moth World champ (twice) a 16ft Oz Champ a few times and
> an Oz Yachtsman of the Year so he knows his stuff.
You da man!.... Thanks
DP
d parker
I didn't get to try today OZ. Chasing my tail all day on other subjects.
Heading to Balmain tomorrow to look at another one tomorrow and back to
Gladesville to look at last weeks one again. The new main and No1 makes the
first one attractive. There's a couple of grands worth. The motor is the
only major concern. It is a "drofin" diesel. Never heard of it. But it may
be another brand re-badged.
I will let you know how I go.
BTW, I stopped to look at that Tri. From what I could see (with the sun in
behind it) it looks like a fun ride. That is one tall stick for the boat.
DP