Lake Oswego resident found the ingredients for a rich life
The food and friendship were standard fare for customers of
Jerry Slavich and his brother
Jerry's Gable restaurant was literally a gable in a house.
In its heyday in the 1960s and '70s, it was famous for big
portions and the long lines of hungry students from Portland
State and starving medical students just down from nearby
Pill Hill.
Jerry Slavich was the man in the cramped kitchen in the back
of the garage-level bistro at 618 S.W. Grant, at the end of
Broadway. There he dished out the likes of Jerry's
Special --half a pound of broiled ground round, a huge green
salad and about half a loaf of garlic bread. At $1.50, it
was the best deal in town.
Jerry was a third-generation restaurateur who learned
everything from his father, whom he idolized. His
grandfather, a Yugoslavian immigrant, was head chef at the
old Portland Hotel. In 1933, Jerry's father, Jerry Sr., and
his mother, Margaret --the restaurant hostess and in some
ways the boss --converted the two-car garage under their
house into Jerry's Tavern.
In 1958, they converted the tavern into the first Jerry's
Gable. Jerry and his brother, Tony, eventually took over its
operation.
Customers planned to be there quite a while to enjoy crab
cioppino with red sauce served in a huge brass shaving dish
so you had to use a bib, sirloin tips cooked with mushrooms
and burgundy wine over noodles, and wine ordered by the
color --white, red, rose.
Frank Sinatra was on the jukebox, and customers were allowed
in the kitchen to watch Jerry cook. He said that they were
his friends and that the restaurant belonged to them. His
children made the garlic bread. Sens. Wayne Morse, Mark
Hatfield and Bob Packwood patronized the place; Portland
Mayor Bud Clark once worked there.
It was like a sitcom --Jerry and Tony were the best of
friends and the worst of friends. They bickered like an old
married couple but they filled each other's weaknesses, and
nobody better get between them.
Jerry or Tony would call regulars if they didn't show up for
Sunday dinner. Many couples became engaged there.
But times changed; eventually, the freeway took away a lot
of the street-only parking. In 1976, the restaurant closed.
Jerry was raised in Portland; he went to the old St.
Lawrence Catholic School at 2220 S.W. Third, then to the
brand-new Lincoln High campus. He was in the Army National
Guard for years.
He was so devoted to his restaurant that when he met his
wife-to-be, he introduced himself by saying, "I'm Jerry of
Jerry's Gable restaurant." Lucille and Jerry married in
1961, had four children and later divorced.
After the downtown location closed, one or both of the
Slaviches operated other restaurants in Salem and Milwaukie.
In the 1980s, Jerry's Gable opened at 7858 S.E. 13th Avenue
in an old Dutch Colonial in Sellwood. Jerry held court on
food and wine, organized wine country tours before they were
popular and joined the Chefs de Cuisine Society.
For years, Jerry was famous for serving food on huge turkey
platters: salad, bread and entree all on the same plate.
Jerry liked to stick to that tradition, even when people's
tastes and customs changed.
When the Sellwood location closed in the mid-1990s, that
ended the Slavich restaurant legacy and started Jerry's
retirement.
He lived quietly after that. Jerry and Tony stayed with
their mother until she died in 2003, then sold the house and
moved together to Lake Oswego.
For the rest of Jerry's life --which ended in his sleep at
age 70 on Feb. 14, 2006 --he kept a weathered briefcase full
of Gable memorabilia, menus and recipes. And former
customers search in vain for a place like Jerry's Gable.