lube a lock ..WD40 or graphite?
Jim Waggener
want a pro answer to which is the lubricant to use for a car ignition
switch.
Thanks
JimW
Ron Drew
Neither, WD-40 absorbs water and graphite will clump over time. Use Tri-flo
(teflon based) or a silicon based lubricant.
Ron - Early Locksmith Service, Blakely, GA
Jim Waggener wrote in message <35a01b48...@allnews.infi.net>...
Jim Waggener
On Mon, 06 Jul 1998 01:58:20 GMT, "Ron Drew" <ro...@sowega.net> wrote:
>Neither, WD-40 absorbs water and graphite will clump over time. Use Tri-flo
>(teflon based) or a silicon based lubricant.
>
>Ron - Early Locksmith Service, Blakely, GA
>
Ron,
Thanks for the response. Where can I find Tri-flo?
JimW
Ron Drew
Hardware stores might carry it, or try the sporting goods section at a dept
store (ie. Wal-Mart, K-mart) it's used to lube guns also.
Jim Waggener wrote in message <35a04a57...@allnews.infi.net>...
car...@acun.com
In article <35a01b48...@allnews.infi.net>,
cre...@infi.net (Jim Waggener) wrote:
>
> want a pro answer to which is the lubricant to use for a car ignition
> switch.
>
> Thanks
>
> JimW
>
Hey Jim,
If you are wanting to lube the lock based on manufacturer's specs. You
should remove lock disassemble and pack the wafers or pins in some form of
lithium grease. If you are just wanting to moisten up the wafers and pins a
little bit then use some type of teflon coated solution. There are many
types out on the market.
Also keep in mind what area of the country your in. Some colder climates will
cause your lube to harden, crystalize or even freeze. This would cause the
internal lock components to not function properly.
As far a WD-40 goes it's ok but not really a lock lubricant. It's more of a
water displacer. Even the film it leaves behind breaks down rather rapidly
and it also attracts dust and dirt very easily.
Graphite should NEVER be used on a vehicle. Graphite is a powder and what
happens when powder gets wet and then drys. You have what I like to call
Mohave Clay. The way it happens is if your key gets water on it say like
when it's raining out and you stick that key in the lock that has graphite in
it. Now you have just applied moisture to the powder.
I have serviced thousands of vehicles locks over the past 30+ years and
graphite is IMHO damaging to the lock.
John Robert-AFSL
-----== Posted via Deja News, The Leader in Internet Discussion ==-----
http://www.dejanews.com/rg_mkgrp.xp Create Your Own Free Member Forum
Keyman
Ron has a good point, Graphite does build up.
W-D has worked for me for 17yrs. now.
Not a Problem for me~!!!
It washes itself every time you use it.
Tri-flo is very good also.
Me I like W-D
Keyman
Jim Waggener wrote in message <35a01b48...@allnews.infi.net>...
Kal
For ignitions I usually try to stay with Teflon based lubricants.
(Tri-Flow, Liquid Wrench makes one, GT-50 etc.) Besides WD-40 turning
to
goo and graphite caking up, graphite and silicon are electrically
conductive, which could cause potential problems.
Kal
Kal's Keys & Locksmithing
--
To err is human
To really screw-up takes a computer
HEERE Spambot!! Heere Boy!! GOOD BOY!!
Got some nice addresses for you
ab...@demon.net
u...@ftc.gov
djd...@psnw.com
vete...@pacbell.net
deaw...@aol.com
vete...@aol.com
ame...@aol.com
usreg...@aol.com
usmil...@aol.com
Keyman
I never heard of any type of Grease being used on Pin-Tumbler Locks.
Is this true ??
I have been in this business for 17yrs and have never heard of this~!!
Learn something every day that I wake up!!!
If this is true ?
Please respond to this ??
Keyman
car...@acun.com wrote in message <6nr91e$lsa$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>...
>In article <35a01b48...@allnews.infi.net>,
> cre...@infi.net (Jim Waggener) wrote:
>>
>> want a pro answer to which is the lubricant to use for a car ignition
>> switch.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> JimW
>>
>
fl...@wko.com
In article <DtYn1.102697$J4.2076145@eagle>,
Tri-Flo gets my vote also. I have used gallons of WD40
over the years but once I discovered Tri-Flo the WD isn't used
much any more.
I also sell it to customers that come in the shop asking for a good
lock lube.
Most good lock supply companies have it.
Flint - Bone Safe & Lock Co. -
Ken Sweet
Keyman I think you missed what was said about the grease being used on
locks. They were talking about automotive locks and most of the car locks
today are wafer type locks and most manufactures do use grease in them.
Not that I agree with this but it is widely used.
--
Ken Sweet
Sweet's Lock & Key
mailto:swee...@airmail.net
>Keyman <asl...@gcstation.net> wrote in article
><_9bo1.8$kO1....@newsread.com>...
car...@acun.com
In article <_9bo1.8$kO1....@newsread.com>,
"Keyman" <asl...@gcstation.net> wrote:
>
> I never heard of any type of Grease being used on Pin-Tumbler Locks.
> Is this true ??
> I have been in this business for 17yrs and have never heard of this~!!
> Learn something every day that I wake up!!!
> If this is true ?
> Please respond to this ??
> Keyman
> >If you are wanting to lube the lock based on manufacturer's specs. You
> >should remove lock disassemble and pack the wafers or pins in some form of
> >lithium grease.
Hey Keyman, as you can see I am dating myself. I started locksmithing back
in the 50's with my Dad as a hobby. But I've only been doing it seriously
now for about 30+ years. Things back then were somewhat different than they
have been in the past 20 years. Years ago when vehicles primarily used pin
tumblers for their lock devises they would have what looked liked packed
grease in them. I always hated working on them as a kid because you would
have to spend so much time cleaning out the old grease to service it. Then
repack it when lock was serviced and ready to be reinstalled and yes I am
talking about vehicle pin tumbler locks. This practice over the years was
replaced with the introduction to WD-40 back in the late 60's.
One thing I've also noticed is alot of the new pin tumbler door knobs and
deadbolts that are being sold these days are back to repacking them with that
light brown grease. There was a time, I think it started in the late 60's or
early 70's, that deadbolts and doorknobs were shipped ungreased(is that a
word?) and we would take the locks apart and pack them with grease and
reassemble them so they could be sold to the public. The nice thing about
those days is that manuals were not available in such detail on how to
service these locks. So in the process of greasing them we also would learn
how to disassemble in the shop. Which in turn made the job easier if you had
to go out and service them.
Now days things are quite different. I use to carry tons of equippment, code
books, 10 different types of hand files, and who knows what else to get the
job done. Today I only have 3 key machines in my van: 1200, 025, &
Sidewinder. 1 cordless and 1 power drill and 2 hand tool kits. Finally a
large assortment of key blanks and my 4.5 lbs laptop computer. This devise
in itself has lighten my van by about 500 lbs. Everything I get whether it
is a code series update or printed article is either loaded or scanned in and
kept on hand and readily available for me to look up.
John Robert-AFSL
The Plastic Lizard
The problem with Teflon based lubricants is that they wear over time.
WD-40 gathers grime
teflon wears out over time
graphite turns to gunk when it gets moist or humid
and don't get me started on silicone or molybendium or zinc sterate based
lubes.....
So far the one that I like best is one of the new type synthetic lubricants
that bonds with the metal and fills in the "pits" on the surface. It's a
metal treatment as well as a lube and is supposed to cut down on wear.
Medeco sells one as their new "approved" lubricant KEYLUBE 2.0. It doesn't
gather dirt like WD and it "greases like eel snot." It's more expensive
then WD but at least I don't get called out to a customer and end up having
to clean out and re-lube their locks.
Kal wrote in message <35A11986...@swbell.net>...
dharm...@yahoo.com
greetings,
i'm not trying to be sarcastic, but i just want to substantiate some
information i read somewhere...
is it true that WD40 had no real LUBRICATING qualities to it? that the "WD"
stands for "water displacement"? if anybody knows if this is accurate, let me
know, OK....
thanks,
DB
p.s. tri-flow kicks ass.
fl...@wko.com wrote:
>
> In article <DtYn1.102697$J4.2076145@eagle>,
> "Ron Drew" <ro...@sowega.net> wrote:
> >
> > Hardware stores might carry it, or try the sporting goods section at a dept
> > store (ie. Wal-Mart, K-mart) it's used to lube guns also.
> >
> > Jim Waggener wrote in message <35a04a57...@allnews.infi.net>...
> > >On Mon, 06 Jul 1998 01:58:20 GMT, "Ron Drew" <ro...@sowega.net> wrote:
> > >
> > >>Neither, WD-40 absorbs water and graphite will clump over time. Use
> > Tri-flo
> > >>(teflon based) or a silicon based lubricant.
> > >>
> > >>Ron - Early Locksmith Service, Blakely, GA
> > >>
> > >Ron,
> > >Thanks for the response. Where can I find Tri-flo?
> > >
> > >JimW
> >
>
> Tri-Flo gets my vote also. I have used gallons of WD40
> over the years but once I discovered Tri-Flo the WD isn't used
> much any more.
> I also sell it to customers that come in the shop asking for a good
> lock lube.
> Most good lock supply companies have it.
>
> Flint - Bone Safe & Lock Co. -
>
Keyman
WD came from the Space Program
40 came from their 40th try
Don't really know what WD stands for ???
At least, thats what I heard ~!!!!!
It does displace water.
Keyman
dharm...@yahoo.com wrote in message <6nvr7p$op7$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>...
Henry E Schaffer
Keyman <asl...@gcstation.net> wrote:
>Half - Rite ~!!!!
>WD came from the Space Program
>40 came from their 40th try
>Don't really know what WD stands for ???
I've heard it stands for Water Displacer.
>At least, thats what I heard ~!!!!!
>It does displace water.
That's my experience, too.
> ...
>> is it true that WD40 had no real LUBRICATING qualities to it?
It works well as a light duty lubricant, but won't hang in there under
pressure.
>that the "WD"
>>stands for "water displacement"? if anybody knows if this is accurate, let
>me know, OK....
That's what I've heard.
--
--henry schaffer
h...@ncsu.edu
RCrusoe
fuel?
Residue seems to be much lighter than crap like 3 in 1, which is basically a
vegetable oil too. WD used to be a favorite gun oil... I still use it in spite
of advice to the contrary, but I never have any problem. Sure makes a decent
solvent, though it doesn't work well on bores. Great for cutting failed grease.
Easy on plastic if you don't soak it down.
For locks, WD's main savng grace, economy, is moot. Too little is used in a
lock to quibble about the cost of a fraction of a gram. WD seems to give very
short-lived lubrication.
_______
73 DE AB5VH (Robinson) in San Benito, Texas
A nice little town in the Rio Grande Valley
By the Border, By the Sea
NEW HAMS! get info, pics, drawings, programs, links
LADIES! See a handsome ham!
http://members.aol.com/rcrusoe/ab5vh.html
dit diddy dit dit.......
Joe Kesselman, yclept Keshlam
> is it true that WD40 had no real LUBRICATING qualities to it? that the "WD"
>stands for "water displacement"?
Yes, and yes. As a water repellant it does tend to prevent dust
accumulations from turning into mud, and it discourages icing, so
it does help things run smoother (which is why the folks at NASA
invented it)... but think of it more as a cleanser than a lube.
Tri-flow, or one of the other silicone microsphere lubes, is a better
approach in most cases. 'Course, I'm not sure the two have to be
mutually exclusive; I suppose one could ask a chemist.
OTOH, graphite _is_ a lubricant. But it does have some tendency
to turn into mud itself, expecially given how heavy-handed most
folks are with it.
------------------------------------------------------
Joe Kesselman, http://www.lovesong.com/people/keshlam/
New URL for Walkabout Clearwater Coffeehouse and Chorus:
http://www.lovesong.com/walkabout/
Bill Bershinger
Carl Curling
wrote:
Would you put rocks in your cylinder? That's what your doing with
Graphite. I use WD40 or LPS, depending on what's on sale at the
distributer. When I was lead over a school district with nearly 4000
Corbin/Russwin cylinders of varying magnitude, and mostly Master-Ring,
I would send a sample bottle to each of the schools (35) and the
custodians would give a little squirt in each cylinder once a month.
I can't tell you how many graduation pranks (glue in the locks) were
foiled by this practice. I have taken sticky cylinders apart later to
find a thin film of dried glue between the plug and the shell that
didn't stick because of the lubrication. I use Tri-flow when I
rebuild a safe lock, but I really feel it's too thick for a regular
pin tumbler lock.
-Carl Curling
Locksmith in a former life.
Carl Curling
>information i read somewhere...
>know, OK....
The can says: "Contains petroleum distillates." It also says "For
best rust protection, do not wipe off."
it also says:
Stops Squeaks
Protects Metal
Loosens Rusted Parts
Frees Sticky Mechanism
Sounds like an lubricating product to me.
Joe Kesselman, yclept Keshlam
>LPS?
Context, please?
Bill Bershinger
lock...@hotmail.com
cur...@inland.net (Carl Curling) wrote:
> Would you put rocks in your cylinder? That's what your doing with
> Graphite.
On an indoor pin tumbler lock graphite is my choice for best lubricant. It
does not attract dust like a liquid lubricant.
> I use WD40 or LPS, depending on what's on sale at the
> distributer.
WD40 is a solvent, not a lubricant.
> When I was lead over a school district with nearly 4000
> Corbin/Russwin cylinders of varying magnitude, and mostly Master-Ring,
> I would send a sample bottle to each of the schools (35) and the
> custodians would give a little squirt in each cylinder once a month.
> I can't tell you how many graduation pranks (glue in the locks) were
> foiled by this practice. I have taken sticky cylinders apart later to
> find a thin film of dried glue between the plug and the shell that
> didn't stick because of the lubrication.
That "thin film of dried glue" is the build up of wd40 and dust, not glue.
> I use Tri-flow when I
> rebuild a safe lock, but I really feel it's too thick for a regular
> pin tumbler lock.
Tri-flow has too high a surface tension to use in a safe. I use "Safe Slick"
which is specifically formulated for safes. In my experience anyone lubing a
safe with a liquid like tri-flow or Ronson Multi-Lube is just setting
themselves up for repeat business when they have to go and open the safe in a
year or two.
>
> -Carl Curling
> Locksmith in a former life.
Rick Streifel
Locksmith in a current life and have been for 16 years now.
> >want a pro answer to which is the lubricant to use for a car ignition
> >switch.
For this I use tri-flow or Ronson Multi-Lube. WD40 will just make them sticky
again in a few months.
lock...@hotmail.com
cur...@inland.net (Carl Curling) wrote:
> > i'm not trying to be sarcastic, but i just want to substantiate some
> >information i read somewhere...
> > is it true that WD40 had no real LUBRICATING qualities to it? that the "WD"
> >stands for "water displacement"? if anybody knows if this is accurate, let me
> >know, OK....
>
Yes, that is correct. Howard Hughes used it many years ago to spray on
aircraft that he was putting in storage.
> The can says: "Contains petroleum distillates." It also says "For
> best rust protection, do not wipe off."
>
> it also says:
> Stops Squeaks
> Protects Metal
> Loosens Rusted Parts
> Frees Sticky Mechanism
>
> Sounds like an lubricating product to me.
Sounds like a solvent to me.
>
> -Carl Curling
> Locksmith in a former life.
>
Hmm...time to get current then.
QUADZIMAN
with when it was perfected. It is safe in all electronics as it does not
cunduct electricity...
Lockpros
locks, If you put it on a lock and go back to re-key it you better be careful
and not let any fall from the lock and get in the carpet. I took a lockset
apart that some one had filled with that darn dust and about a cupful fell onto
a nice new off-white carpet. You havent lived until you try to remove that
stuff.
WD 40 works as good as anything out there and its hard to beat as far as Im
concerned.
Carl Curling
<bersh...@prodigy.net> wrote:
>LPS?
>
It's a lubricant. It come's in varying weights so that you can use it
for differant stuff. They make a Chain Lube that if put on a
screwdriver and thrown in salt water for two weeks will not get a spot
of rust. Great stuff.
-Carl Curling,
Henry E Schaffer
Carl Curling <cur...@inland.net> wrote:
> ...
>Would you put rocks in your cylinder? That's what your doing with
Would you hit your baby with rocks? That's what your doing with
talcum powder.
I've had good results over many years with using graphite *sparingly*
in cylinders. I'm not recommending packing the cylinder solid with
graphite.
--
--henry schaffer
h...@ncsu.edu
sha...@my-dejanews.com
cylinders, LPS2 is heavier, but is still clear and is good for use in locks or
safes, LPS3 is dark and great for bicycle chains. They are all suppose to be
very good at lubrication and rust protection and presumably will not hold dirt
like WD40. Be careful though the stuff used to be sold through MLM and you
might end up with a case (or three) of it in your garage!
Has anyone here ever use Poxylube?--SCS
--------------------------------------------------
Visit http://www.Security-Pro.com
*Free Worldwide Locksmith Search
*Free Online Security Advisor
*Free Locksmith Web Sites
--------------------------------------------------
Mickey McInnis
Organization:
Keywords:
In article <6qo8fc$49u$0...@208.207.70.54>, shiv...@pcis.net ( --- Shiva ---) writes:
|> I had the pleasure of drilling out a Class B safe head in a floor
|> once,, they decided it was hard to turn so poured some WD 40 into the
|> edge of the dial.. apparently about 1/2 cup... they got to clean the
|> safe out when i got it open..
What in particular did this treatment do to the lock to cause it to fail?
(I know it's not a good idea, but what in particular did it do this time?)
--
Mickey McInnis - mci...@austin.ibm.com
--
All opinions expressed are my own opinions, not my company's opinions.
Robert Nichols
Carl Curling <cur...@inland.net> wrote:
:On Sun, 9 Aug 1998 22:08:57 -0700, "Bill Bershinger"
:<bersh...@prodigy.net> wrote:
:
:>LPS?
:>
:It's a lubricant. It come's in varying weights so that you can use it
:for differant stuff. They make a Chain Lube that if put on a
:screwdriver and thrown in salt water for two weeks will not get a spot
:of rust. Great stuff.
LPS-1 is what I like to use on lock cylinders. It's marketed as a
lubricant for delicate mechanisms. It cleans and displaces water much
like WD-40, but LPS-1 doesn't turn gummy with age and the film doesn't
attract dirt. It's what you wish WD-40 was. One big advantage it has
over graphite or moly bearing lock fluids is that your key doesn't keep
picking up black fluid for the next week or so.
At the other end of the spectrum there's LPS-3, which leaves a heavy,
waxy coating that protects against rust for two years, according to the
label, but doesn't pick up dirt the way grease would. It has some
lubricating qualities but isn't marketed as a lubricant. I use it on
sliding parts and hinges that are exposed to the weather.
Definitely great stuff.
--
Bob Nichols rnic...@interaccess.com
Finger rnic...@cluster.interaccess.com for PGP public key.
PGP public key 1024/9A9C7955
Key fingerprint = 2F E5 82 F8 5D 06 A2 59 20 65 44 68 87 EC A7 D7
Bill Bershinger
Jim Parrie
Henry E Schaffer wrote:
> In article <35d07489....@news.supernews.com>,
> Carl Curling <cur...@inland.net> wrote:
> > ...
> >Would you put rocks in your cylinder? That's what your doing with
> >Graphite. ...
>
> Would you hit your baby with rocks? That's what your doing with
> talcum powder.
>
> I've had good results over many years with using graphite *sparingly*
> in cylinders. I'm not recommending packing the cylinder solid with
> graphite.
> --
> --henry schaffer
> h...@ncsu.edu
Seems like everyone has an opinion on this one....... Here's mine
A nice CLEAN disassembled pin tumbler lock with a plug machined out of
brass, use a microfine graphite powder or Lab teflon powder. *sparingly* is
good.
A nice CLEAN disassembled pin tumbler lock with a cast plug (Schlage F,
Kwikset 600, Titan, etc) . A small amount of light grease (Briggs &
Stratton works for me) wiped across the top of the plug so as to leave just
a touch in each pin chamber. After a couple of days it is absorbed into the
cast material like an oilite bushing. Very effective at preventing
corrosion in salt air environments.
Disassembled auto locks, Briggs & Stratton Lock grease (lots of it).
Funky locks that you dont want to disassemble, a blast of LPS-1, work the
key in and out a few times, a blast of canned air to clear out the lock,
follow with a bit of B&S grease and work in with the key. One final blast
of canned air pushes most of the grease from the keyway to prevent the
black key syndrome.
Jim
Carl Curling
>That "thin film of dried glue" is the build up of wd40 and dust, not glue.
Then it should have been destroyed by additional WD-40. It was the
glue.
>Tri-flow has too high a surface tension to use in a safe. I use "Safe Slick"
>which is specifically formulated for safes. In my experience anyone lubing a
>safe with a liquid like tri-flow or Ronson Multi-Lube is just setting
>themselves up for repeat business when they have to go and open the safe in a
>year or two.
It's all really somewhat subjective. You use "Safe Slick," because
you fell for the specialy designed for safes sales pitch. The reality
is this:
1) except for the post, and the lever screw most of the brass parts
require very little if any lubrication.
2) The customer should have thier safe serviced every year anyway.
I recently changed the combination on a Gary E-rate that I drilled and
repaired in '83, after the vandals spent all night with a hammer and
chisel. It gets opened several times a day in the restraunt. Back
then we still used Vasoline for lubrication of the bolts and the wheel
post, especially the "in the floor lids." It still worked flawlessly.
Even so, I still completly dissembled, cleaned and inspected all of
the parts and put it back together with a new combination. Even if I
changed the combo last week I would still completely service the door
and lock, this practice has prevented any failures following my work.
>Rick Streifel
>Locksmith in a current life and have been for 16 years now.
I still have a fully equipted Dodge van with all the tools including a
Framon #2.
I have been doing this since I decieded to become a locksmith in 1964,
and got a job sweeping the floor in a lock & alarm shop. In 3 years I
could do handle ANY call. My speciality was doing the stuff that
others felt was impossible, like impressioning a 1963 Fiat with a
split plug, or stuff that required Imagineering.
I am (as far as I know) still a member of the Security Locksmiths
Assn. made up of institutional and industrial locksmiths. (I joined in
January of 1986). In the 70's, I was President of the Bay Cities
Chapter of CLA for 2 years and member of the R&D Committee for 4
years. I was Training Coordinator of Desert Counties in the 80's, and
aboard the Queen Mary I taught the first "locksmith's and computers"
class ever presented at a CLA State convention. I also have a plaque
for First Place, Fourth Annual Lock Assembly Tournament from the CLA
1982 convention. Back when Clark Security Products held it's FIRST
open house in the late 70's, I left with First Place in both the
Picking and Impressioning contests. I have ton's of certificates
including medeco, Emhart, Gary and Adesco.
Been there, done that, got the coffee cup. Still like WD-40 better
than Graphite.
Now, I don't have to deal with AR, I don't have to deal with
inventory, I don't have to deal with customers I don't have to get up
at 4am and let the Marshall into a condo or 2am and open a car, and
I'm management now so I don't even have to show up on time for work.
I get to spend the day banging on a keyboard, asigning IP
addresses/passwords to teachers or inspecting the work of a vendor
who is pulling the wires to get kids onto the internet in the
classroom. (thanks Al Gore) I think the only thing I really miss is
that when I left the lock department, I had only 7 keys to get me
where ever I had to go and now I have 14 and half the time they don't
work because they hired an idiot who didn't understand institutional
security to replace me and another who is too macho to ask for help to
replace him.
Joe Kesselman, yclept Keshlam
>> Stops Squeaks
Mostly by displacing moisture, hence allowing dust to shake free rather than
turning into mud.
>> Protects Metal
As a water-repellant, it'll reduce corrosion a bit.
>> Loosens Rusted Parts
I suspect this is more because it behaves like a penetrating oil than
anything else, though it may in fact help to break up the rust a bit.
>> Frees Sticky Mechanism
See above.
>> Sounds like an lubricating product to me.
>Sounds like a solvent to me.
Usually the best way to think of WD40 is as a cleanser. It isn't a lube; it
won't have much effect in reducing the tendency for rubbing parts to
abrade each other, which is what a lube does. But it's pretty good at
loosening things that are stuck due to moisture, and preventing that
particular failure mode from happening for a while. I like it, I use it, but
I know its limits.
If you really want a lube, the silicone microsphere lubes are probably the
best all-around lubricant for small parts. Think of millions of microscopic ball
bearings...
Mr. G.
after they said to ALWAYS use graphite powder.
I found it worked great. At least long enough to get the bill signed.
However, it didn't seem to last long in actual use.
sha...@my-dejanews.com wrote:
--
#### Microsoft Internet Explorer ### JUST SAY NO ####
aa...@_no.spam.deltanet.com
>
>
>Henry E Schaffer wrote:
>
>> In article <35d07489....@news.supernews.com>,
>> Carl Curling <cur...@inland.net> wrote:
>> > ...
>> >Would you put rocks in your cylinder? That's what your doing with
>> >Graphite. ...
>>
>> Would you hit your baby with rocks? That's what your doing with
>> talcum powder.
Personally, I recommend lubricating babies with graphite.
Vic
in Safeway. It's around, and I use it on locks all the time and have been
for 10 years. It's good stuff. So is Ballistol, which I am testing right
now and may switch to permanently because it's bio-degradable and non toxic.
Vic
sha...@my-dejanews.com wrote in message
<6qplki$950$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>...
aa...@_no.spam.deltanet.com
>LPS can be found in auto parts stores, Wal-Mart, K-Mart, I have even seen it
>in Safeway. It's around, and I use it on locks all the time and have been
>for 10 years. It's good stuff. So is Ballistol, which I am testing right
>now and may switch to permanently because it's bio-degradable and non toxic.
Is a "biodegradable" lubricant a good thing? Just asking, but I would
think maybe you wouldn't want a lubricant to biodegrade on you too quickly...
Vic
a scanner yet. Otherwise I would post the stats on Ballistol. Yes, I think
that bio-degradable and non-toxic is best for certain areas, like kitchens.
Vic
aa-2@_no.spam.deltanet.com wrote in message
<6qt5op$eso$6...@news01.deltanet.com>...
Joe Kesselman, yclept Keshlam
>Personally, I recommend lubricating babies with graphite.
On a very slightly less silly note, fine graphite _does_ work for
disclosing fingerprints on paper and other light-colored surfaces,
though not as well as the powder made for the purpose.
(Had occasion to try that when I was proctoring a Science-by-Mail
team and they'd been assigned a set of experiments with a
detective theme.)
k...@islc.net
aa-2@_no.spam_deltanet.com wrote:
> In <35D12F3C...@qualityservice.com>, Jim Parrie
<lock...@qualityservice.com> writes:
> >
> >
> >Henry E Schaffer wrote:
> >
> >> In article <35d07489....@news.supernews.com>,
> >> Carl Curling <cur...@inland.net> wrote:
> >> > ...
> >> >Would you put rocks in your cylinder? That's what your doing with
> >> >Graphite. ...
> >>
> >> Would you hit your baby with rocks? That's what your doing with
> >> talcum powder.
>
> Personally, I recommend lubricating babies with graphite.
>
>
Come on, man! Everybody knows that you should lubricate babies
with Baby Oil!!!!!!!
Keith Mayo
Robert Nichols
Bill Bershinger <bersh...@prodigy.net> wrote:
:I get it. No wonder I've never seen it.
The various LPS lubricants, rust inhibitors, and anti-seize compounds
are available from large "Industrial Supply" type companies (J&L, MSC,
McMaster Carr, etc.) in quantities as small as a single 11 oz aerosol
can or 20 oz spray bottle. You're not likely to find them at your local
hardware store.
Scott Pankhurst
> There is available from suppliers Lab makes it I think.. Powered
> teflon.. all the advantages of graphite AND will not absorb water..
Try Remington Spray teflon lube - never gums up. Don't use in bearings,
though.
Robert Nichols
:I have a copy of the ingredients and statistics from testing, but don't have
:a scanner yet. Otherwise I would post the stats on Ballistol. Yes, I think
:that bio-degradable and non-toxic is best for certain areas, like kitchens.
Bio-degradable is not the same as food-safe. In fact, a bio-degradable
lubricant is likely to support the growth of bacteria, and thus you
would no want to have old lubricant come into contact with food.
Bill Bershinger
Had never heard of it before Now I see it.
john mallette
petrolium distillates which in some cases can cause more problems than
it can fix. Any item that has a zinc plating is in for trouble. WD-40
can cause the plating to come off and become gummy. And when it dries
out, it can cause parts to stick and jam. This info came from a
certification class at Von Duprin. TRI-FLOW is a teflon based product
and I have never had a problem with it.
John
Bill Bershinger
Daniel9976 wrote in message
<199808280049...@ladder03.news.aol.com>...
even better...Marvel mystery oil...dat stuff is great for everything.
Wouldn't
be a bit surptised to hear that it makes good hair gel too....
Daniel9976
Daniel9976
"old-timers" are surprised that a yung-un like me (20) has even heard of the
stuff...it's been around since like the 30's and it's still the best available.
Get some and try it...and see if you don't become addicted to the scent too.
Dan
Robinson, AB5VH
and use it as a general light lubricant when something longer lasting is
needed. Doesn't leave much residue and takes a long time to evaporate. Might
be just a bit heavy for locks, though. I would think sewing machine oil or
such would be ideal if you didn't get too heavy handed with it. Personally,
I think clean and dry is better than oily. Dirt does stick to oily stuff.
Ether and/or compressed air (I don't recommend this in an enclosed space heh
heh) to clean that sucker out might be more beleficial than any lubricant.
Some people use it as an additive to the lube oil in small i.e. automotive
or smaller engines. Won't comment on that practice myself.
--
_______________________________________________________
******PLEASE REMOVE ANTI-SPAM TO REPLY VIA EMAIL*******
_______________________________________________________
73 DE AB5VH (Robinson) in San Benito, Texas
A nice little town in the beautiful Lower Rio Grande Valley
By the Border, By the Sea
New or Wannabe HAMS... go to my site for info and resources!
Ladies! SEE A HANDSOME HAM!
NEW! Amateur Locksmithing Page!
New shorter URL:
_________________
http://crusoe.org
_________________
dit diddy dit dit
Daniel9976 wrote in message
<199808280713...@ladder03.news.aol.com>...
gwrloc...@gmail.com
> want a pro answer to which is the lubricant to use for a car ignition
> switch.
>
> Thanks
>
> JimW
WD-40 is "Water Dispersant formula 40" it does not it does not "absorb" water as Ron said, I have heard all the old wife's tales about WD-40 over the years, and most are just untrue, it does not "Attract" dirt, I have tested this myself and it is untrue, is it the best for your cars ignition? not really, but it will work, Graphic is a huge no no, and if you live in the rainy areas of our country it will turn to rock (pencil lead) and lock you out of car doors.
I choose to use Strattec's "Lock Shot" not Strattec is the lock arm of the old Briggs & Stratton company and when they were sold and separated they took the name Strattec and they are the worlds largest manufacturer of automotive locks in the world, they have been making the locks for GMC since 1935, and also make locks for all GMC companies, as well as Chrysler and Ford,and some of the import car companies also,.
Lock Shot "foam's up to cover all the pins and wafers of your locks and then you will have a lock that has been lubed and protected from the elements, warning lock shot is NOT A PENETRATING lube so it will not free a fully stuck lock, for that use WD-40 and then move your key in and out many times over and over.
note: and one using at telling you to use a lithium grease on a pin tumbler lock, does not understand how a pin tumbler locks works and should NEVER be done!!
But then again I have only been a full time locksmith for 46 years so what do I know?
Stormin Mormon
the need for information. But as a courtesy to new
readers. Some auto ignition locks use electrical
connects (VATS, Pass-key) and so graphite is not used.
The rest of the answer depends a lot on where the car
is, ambient humidity, etc.
In Western NY, door locks and trunk locks often turn
to a chunk of salty zinc, if they are left dry. Some
wet spray lube is necessary, ideally twice a year.
Car door locks, about the only place I use 10w30 motor
oil.
I've seen spray cooking oil used in pin tumbler locks
(reccomended by a single mom who doesn't belive in men).
I saw it after it stopped working, a few days later.
You can tell, by the smell.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
Stormin Mormon
here, in the winter. Vehicles rot out.
The drivers door of my 1995 Chevrolet work van has
been giving me trouble. When I turn the key, the
button does come up, but it's sluggish and takes a
lot of effort. The key cylinder is fine. I've tried
spraying the latch mechanism with WD, white lith,
ATF, silicone, and gosh knows what else. I think
the real answer is to pull the latch out, and clean
it with solvents, scrub brush, and so on. It's likely
got a lot of rust. I've tried spraying the latch
(while in the door) with oven cleaner and then rinse
with hot water.
What else can I try?
bb...@commspeed.net
> I have a copy of the ingredients and statistics from testing, but don't have
> a scanner yet. Otherwise I would post the stats on Ballistol. Yes, I think
> that bio-degradable and non-toxic is best for certain areas, like kitchens.
>
> aa-2@_no.spam.deltanet.com wrote in message
> <6qt5op$eso$6...@news01.deltanet.com>...
> >In <6qsl8m$4e9$1...@news.eli.net>, "Vic" <Kin...@bigfoot.com> writes:
> >>LPS can be found in auto parts stores, Wal-Mart, K-Mart, I have even seen
> it
> >>in Safeway. It's around, and I use it on locks all the time and have been
> >>for 10 years. It's good stuff. So is Ballistol, which I am testing right
> >>now and may switch to permanently because it's bio-degradable and non
> toxic.
> >
> >Is a "biodegradable" lubricant a good thing? Just asking, but I would
> >think maybe you wouldn't want a lubricant to biodegrade on you too
> quickly...
> >
yeg...@gmail.com
Fortunately for all this is a "resistible impulse" and liberal application of carb cleaner makes everything clean again.
WD40 is preferable, tho as others said TRI-FLOW, LPS, and others are more optimal.
Stormin Mormon
tend to stay dry. Inside office buildings, for
example.
Stormin Mormon
Look for a thread on car door lock lubrication.
Clare Snyder from Canada loves Lock Ease
graphited lock fluid. I had experience with
that, with a motel that used it all the time.
Got sticky, and really made things worse.
Clare totally insists that's the best stuff
ever made for lock lubrication.
Carla Fong
locks with graphite that gets us into trouble. A little dab'll do ya!
IME, WD-40 or other oil products attract and hold dust and grime and
eventually create a callback.
Here's my method:
I have a small squeeze bottle of finely powdered graphite about 1/3 or
1/4 full.
Holding the lock cylinder in one hand with the keyway pointed down, I
use the other hand to thump the squeeze bottle of graphite (with the
nozzle pointing up) onto the workbench to get the graphite inside to
swirl up into the airspace in the bottle (remember, it's only about 1/3
full). I put my index finger over the bottle spout to keep the graphite
inside the squeeze bottle for this step.
The 'thumping' gives me a thin cloud of graphite dust in the airspace in
the squeeze bottle - I then place the lock cylinder keyway over the
squeeze bottle nozzle (the bottle is still on the workbench, pointing
up) - give the bottle one quick, shallow squeeze and deposit an
extremely fine, thin layer of graphite into the lock.
Takes 3 seconds, doesn't gum up the cylinder and gives a practically
perfect film of graphite lube in the lock.
Carla
Instead of giving a politician the keys to the city, it might be better
to change the locks.~Doug Larson
J.B. Wood
worn door lock was was difficult, a couple of shots of silicone spray
into the keyhole worked wonders and seemed to last for quite a spell.
Don't know if there are any adverse effects of silicone spray on lock
mechanisms otherwise, though. Sincerely,
--
J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_1...@hotmail.com
marg...@gmail.com
> want a pro answer to which is the lubricant to use for a car ignition
> switch.
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim
Stormin Mormon
strong and weak points.
-
.
Christopher A. Young
. www.lds.org
.
.
Jay Hennigan
> On 2/24/2015 12:51 PM, marg...@gmail.com wrote:
>> On Monday, July 6, 1998 at 12:00:00 AM UTC-7, Jim Waggener wrote:
>>> want a pro answer to which is the lubricant to use for a car ignition
>>> switch.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Jim
>>
>> HEY! THANKS TO ALL OF YOU. GREAT INFO MUCH NEEDED.. Marge
>>
> There's more than one choice. Both of the above have
> strong and weak points.
to a question from 1998 and the wording is such that it would apply to
just about any article in any group on any topic.
To answer the original question, neither.
WD-40 isn't a lubricant and will rapidly collect dirt and form a sticky
mess.
Graphite is conductive, and should be avoided around electrical
connections.
I would use a *tiny* bit of Tri-Flow or Teflon-based lubricant. A couple
of drops on the blade of the key, let it work in over time.
Stormin Mormon
> WD-40 isn't a lubricant and will rapidly collect dirt and form a sticky
> mess.
>
> Graphite is conductive, and should be avoided around electrical
> connections.
>
> I would use a *tiny* bit of Tri-Flow or Teflon-based lubricant. A couple
> of drops on the blade of the key, let it work in over time.
>
I like WD for non electric ignitions. Silicone works
very nicely. Tri-Flo is also good.
carlkir...@gmail.com
> want a pro answer to which is the lubricant to use for a car ignition
> switch.
>
> Thanks
>
Ancient thread but there are a few misconceptions posted.
- silicone is non conductive. graphite is conductive and can cake up in a lock.
- ptfe a trade name is teflon. The FTC issued a cease and desist about claims of it forming a coating on metal parts protecting engines as apposed to motor oil alone. It takes a lot of work and sintering to attach it to a surface.
- what does form a coating film is moly (molybdenum disulfide)
I have seven locks on a motorcycle all have the keyway pointed up to catch rain ;/ They get a shot of plastic safe contact cleaner CRC QD including the ignition. Think it's the red can not the green one in the autoparts store. It'll say plastic *safe. Then a small amount of dri-slide bike aid. This is a dry film lubricant with moly. Moly is slippery and bonds to metal and doesn't migrate like silicone. You'll find it in bicycle stores. 10yrs 100k miles and no issues. Exercise the lock with the key and wipe it with a lint free cloth.
* keep the dri-slide and plastic safe contact cleaner off plastic in the car.
The moly will stain and the plastic safe means for the plastic used in switches not the pvc abs and other stuff it might drip on in a car.
.02 keep it clean and use a minimum amount of lubricant.