Installing screws in Maple
djarmis
are Maple. Two frames side by side measure 3". I'm using a
2.5" #8 screws to connect them. The screw looks like a deck
screw. I'm drilling a pilot hole using a drill diameter the
width of the screw body. Problem is the maple is rock hard.
I've tried putting vaseline on the screw but still it's very
difficult to install. The screw chatters and binds up. I'm
worried I'm going to twist off a head and have a broken
protruding screw. Perhaps I need an even larger pilot hole
so the threads have less wood to cut into. How do the pros
do this?
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Bob
Sounds like you do need a larger pilot hole... I use liquid soap
as a lubricant..and NOT much!
Bob G. (hardly a pro however)
NOSPAMBOB
In article <06f57f7b...@usw-ex0109-066.remarq.com>, djarmis
<djarmis...@swcp.com.invalid> writes:
>How do the pros do this?
Name works for E-mail
Hamm4fun
>I'm installing kitchen cabinets-first time. The face frames
>are Maple. Two frames side by side measure 3". I'm using a
>2.5" #8 screws to connect them. The screw looks like a deck
>screw. I'm drilling a pilot hole using a drill diameter the
>width of the screw body. Problem is the maple is rock hard.
>I've tried putting vaseline on the screw but still it's very
>difficult to install. The screw chatters and binds up. I'm
>worried I'm going to twist off a head and have a broken
>protruding screw. Perhaps I need an even larger pilot hole
>do this?
>
>
>* Sent from AltaVista http://www.altavista.com Where you can also find
>related Web Pages, Images, Audios, Videos, News, and Shopping. Smart is
>Beautiful
>
>
>
>
>
>
Drill the hole in one frame a little oversized so the screw does not bite into
the wood. The pilot hole for the other face frame may need to be a little
bigger too but small enough so the screw bites in good. I am not real keen on
using drywall screws in hardwood. How about some SS wood screws or sheet metal
screws. These are a lot stronger and less likely to break. They also have a
smoother surface and will go in the maple a bit easier.
NOSPAMBOB
drywall are TOO BRITTLE and snap. I bought them mainly to make woodworking
jigs.
In article <20000130165625...@ng-cf1.aol.com>, hamm...@aol.com
(Hamm4fun) writes:
>I am not real keen on using drywall screws in hardwood. How about some SS wood
screws or sheet metal screws. These are a lot stronger and less likely to
break. They also have a smoother surface and will go in the maple a bit easier.
Name works for E-mail
John Barry
The original poster made no mention of what type of screws are being used.
Sounds like self-drilling, self-tapping types (e.g. Kreg's) are a candidate.
At least, you want to allow clearance for body of screw in the piece the
screw-head will grap, and a doable starter hole in the other piece. Some
cheapie bits have a variety of diameters along the length of the bit, like
including counter-sink and counter-bore if needed. And there are
taper-drill-bits, with countersink.
Then too, you can use beeswax on the screws.
In maple, I want square-drive screws, not wimpy Phillips. And not
sheet-metal screws.
Regards,
John
"NOSPAMBOB" <nosp...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000131145823...@nso-cc.aol.com...
Steve Knight
>Then too, you can use beeswax on the screws.
yes bee's wax not soap soap causes moisture problems.
Knight's Toolworks & Custom Furniture Galoot Made Products-
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://home.pacifier.com/~stevek/webpics
For prices and ordering instructions.
Records and tapes turned into CD's Save your vinyl and still enjoy it
Visit Http://www.pacifier.com/~stevek/ for details.
Mike Watson
http://www.woodmagazine.com/charts.html
that gives dimensions and hole sizes for screws driven in both hardwood and
soft wood. Download and nail it up beside your drill press.
Mike
Daniel Hicks wrote in message <3898DA5F...@ieee.org>...
>NOSPAMBOB wrote:
>>
>> As the supply of drywall screws dwindles I'm replacing with deck screws
as
>> drywall are TOO BRITTLE and snap. I bought them mainly to make
woodworking
>> jigs.
>>
>> In article <20000130165625...@ng-cf1.aol.com>,
hamm...@aol.com
>> (Hamm4fun) writes:
>>
>> >I am not real keen on using drywall screws in hardwood. How about some
SS wood
>> screws or sheet metal screws. These are a lot stronger and less likely to
>> break. They also have a smoother surface and will go in the maple a bit
easier.
>
>I've found deck screws to be more brittle than drywall screws. But both
>are amazingly tough and rarely break. The trick is of course to
>pre-drill the correct size pilot holes, and in hardwood the correct size
>is a size or two larger than with softwood.
Daniel Hicks
hold the shaft of a drill bit in front of or behind it. If you can hold
the drill bit in front and barely see the valleys of the screw threads
behind it, then that's what you want for soft wood. If you can hold a
drill bit behind and barely see the bit through the valleys of the screw
threads, then that's what you want for hard wood.
Lyle B. Harwood
<danh...@ieee.org> wrote:
>€ You don't need no steenken chart. Just hold a screw up to the light and
>€ hold the shaft of a drill bit in front of or behind it. If you can hold
>€ the drill bit in front and barely see the valleys of the screw threads
>€ behind it, then that's what you want for soft wood. If you can hold a
>€ drill bit behind and barely see the bit through the valleys of the screw
>€ threads, then that's what you want for hard wood.
Exactly!
Well said, Daniel.
--
Lyle B. Harwood, President
Phoenix Homes, Inc.
http://www.phoenixhomesinc.com
(206) 523-9500
djarmis
thing was going to stainless steel with square drive.
Changed to #10. Also, drilled the pilot slightly larger than
the body. The stainless cost 30 cent/ea but well worth it.
NOSPAMBOB
VERY HANDYfor tight spots.
In article <1284cc18...@usw-ex0108-062.remarq.com>, djarmis
<djarmis...@swcp.com.invalid> writes:
>Thanks for all the helpful replies! The most significant
>thing was going to stainless steel with square drive.
Name works for E-mail