Septic system: Determine condition of older 1950s system?
Donald L. Wallace
My house, built in the early 50's, has the original septic system. I
would really appreciate pointers on how to determine the efficacy and
continued lifespan of the system, so I can budget for a new system if
needed in the near future.
Here are some facts. In my plat, probably 1 out of 5 of the septic
systems (of similar or newer vintage) has been replaced in the last 5
years. The ground in this area is clayey, not real bad but not sandy
by any means; and relatively flat, with a slight slope.
I am single and the last person that lived here was single. I rarely
have house guests that stay over. I do not currently use a washer.
When I moved here in '94 up through the end of '97 the basement leaked
into the floor drain, which was pumped through a lift pump to the
septic, and would cycle almost constantly during spring rains the
first three springs I lived here until I had a new basement drain
system installed that does not drain to the septic. (This system pumps
out to a different part of the yard.)
During those springs I never had an overflow of the system but I am
concerned about possible hidden or latent damage to the drain field.
The drain field has a very slight downhill grade over its surface, if
that means anything in this instance. Also, I had the tank pumped
before I moved in and the pump operator gave the tank a clean bill of
health from inspection through the manhole.
Again, I want to emphasize that I do not have a known problem and the
system has performed well to date, but I would just appreciate any
pointers on danger signals or any way I can determine the condition of
the system myself. I also don't think that the system is destined to
fail just because it's 'old' but just would like a heads-up.
Thanks,
Don
Tom Ruta
>My house, built in the early 50's, has the original septic system.
Sounds to me like it doesn't owe you anything. 45+ years is
a good long life for septic. I've read that anything near
thirty is good, but that clearly is contingent upon care,
feeding, soil type, etc.
> I
>would really appreciate pointers on how to determine the efficacy and
>continued lifespan of the system, so I can budget for a new system if
>needed in the near future.
>
The biggest issue you face in an older used system is the
presence of "biomat" or the "scum" that eventually forms in
the trenches. You could actually do a soil analyis/assy (or
better yet - get a hydrologist/engineer etc. to do it.)
As for budgeting, up here you could count on 1500-2K for
field replacement and more if a new (larger) tank is needed.
Special systems (seepage beds, raised mound, etc.) cost
differently. And as for package treatment you can start
around $5K.
...
>I am single and the last person that lived here was single. I rarely
>have house guests that stay over. I do not currently use a washer.
Hmmm... are those two statements related? <grin>
...
>The drain field has a very slight downhill grade over its surface, if
>that means anything in this instance. Also, I had the tank pumped
>before I moved in and the pump operator gave the tank a clean bill of
>health from inspection through the manhole.
>
That only tells you about your tank and possibly indicates
what may or may not have gotten forced into the system. You
need to look at the dispersal area.
>Again, I want to emphasize that I do not have a known problem and the
>system has performed well to date, but I would just appreciate any
>pointers on danger signals or any way I can determine the condition of
>the system myself. I also don't think that the system is destined to
>fail just because it's 'old' but just would like a heads-up.
One thing to check on is the regulations in your area. What
was acceptable in the 50's probably won't work today. Be
careful with rehabilitation/repair!
Tom
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Donald L. Wallace
Thanks for the helpful post. More questions:
On Mon, 17 May 1999 21:09:26 GMT, ru...@cadvision.com (Tom Ruta) sent
into the ether:
(snip)
>The biggest issue you face in an older used system is the
>presence of "biomat" or the "scum" that eventually forms in
>the trenches. You could actually do a soil analyis/assy (or
>better yet - get a hydrologist/engineer etc. to do it.)
>
>As for budgeting, up here you could count on 1500-2K for
>field replacement and more if a new (larger) tank is needed.
>Special systems (seepage beds, raised mound, etc.) cost
>differently. And as for package treatment you can start
>around $5K.
OK, that helps me understand the issues. Question - how do I locate
the drain field tiles? There is no evidence of them at the surface
like grass that grows more over the lines. I notice that my immediate
neighbor with a similar age system has grass growing more in distinct
line patterns. As far as the surface evidence of a septic goes such as
grass growth, smells, or seepage, the system might as well empty to
China...
Another question - around here the replacement septic systems are
always located in a different part of the lot. Usually the setup
involves a lift sump that pumps the waste uphill, as the former field
was downhill and the downhill real estate is considered used-up. Why
would the authorities mandate relocating the field?
>>I am single and the last person that lived here was single. I rarely
>>have house guests that stay over. I do not currently use a washer.
>
>Hmmm... are those two statements related? <grin>
Good one. :-) I just meant that I put almost no chemicals of any sort
habitually down the drain.
Thanks,
- Don
PaulMmn
>always located in a different part of the lot. Usually the setup
>involves a lift sump that pumps the waste uphill, as the former field
>was downhill and the downhill real estate is considered used-up. Why
>would the authorities mandate relocating the field?
A septic drain field (either a 'leaky' pipe, or 12" terra cotta pipe
sections laid end to end with slight gaps between the ends) can
saturate the soil surrounding the pipes. Also, depending on what's
been flushed down, the soil can become 'sealed,' so it -can't- absorb
any more residue.
Third, if your system has had to handle large amounts of water in a
relatively short time (ie those Spring rains), raw sewerage can be
flushed out of the tank into the drain field, plugging the pipes.
If your area has a lot of limestone, maybe your system drains down
into the earth. This, of course, can do nasties to the ground water
in the area... and, if neighboring wells are contaminated, a search
for the source will take place.
I've been in my home here for about 6-1/2 years with no problems. The
former owner claimed she had no idea where the septic system is
buried. I'm envisioning my system draining directly into some
limestone cavern, waiting for some speleunkers to encounter in the
dark. (:
My father's system was originally installed in 1953. About 1957-58
he had to have the distribution field redone.
The original field was built with 'Orangeburg' pipe (a pipe with holes
drilled along one side). This either collapsed or filled or wouldn't
drain fast enough.
The new field (existing tank) was built using the terra cotta pipe
sections I mentioned above.
As part of the rework, he had a 'grease trap' installed. This is a
'miniature' septic tank that only handles the water from the washing
machine. The effluent from the grease trap bypasses the main tank and
dumps directly into the distribution field.
Since then, Dad's had the tank pumped several times (after all, it's
been 46 years). He also had to deal with tree roots; he had
roto-rooter clean out the field at least once.
To make it easier to pump the tank he placed 2 square chimney blocks
over the hold, and placed the lid on top of the blocks; it's now at
ground level holding up a birdbath. To pump: flip the lid, insert
the hose, and pump. He also added a n access hatch to the drain field
so roto rooting is now just as easy.
--Paul E Musselman
Pau...@ix.netcom.nospam.com