Glue loose paper back to particle board

[Alan Meyer]

I have a bathroom vanity that got seriously wet and the exterior wood
look contact paper came loose from the vertical particle board structure
on part of the side of the vanity.

I fixed the leak and dried everything out. Now I'd like to glue the
paper back to the particle board.

Does anyone have suggestions for good adhesives to use? I'm looking for
something easy to work with, if possible, as well as having a good bond.

Also, any tips for getting a nice flat bond without wrinkles?

Thank you very much.

Alan

[Oren]

On Tue, 15 Oct 2013 15:32:55 -0400, Alan Meyer <ame...@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>I have a bathroom vanity that got seriously wet and the exterior wood
>look contact paper came loose from the vertical particle board structure
>on part of the side of the vanity.
>
>I fixed the leak and dried everything out. Now I'd like to glue the
>paper back to the particle board.
>
>Does anyone have suggestions for good adhesives to use? I'm looking for
>something easy to work with, if possible, as well as having a good bond.
>

There are spray adhesives you can find locally: hobby shops have it,
or perhaps "contact cement"... Spray types may be easier for you to
work with.

>Also, any tips for getting a nice flat bond without wrinkles?
>

Holding the paper up and then use a squeegee may be an option for you.

How big is the area needing adhesion?

[Nate Nagel]

I'm thinking something like the 3M spray contact cement that you'd use
for auto upholstery... but may I make another suggestion? Do a search
online for 3M Di-Noc vinyl; if you can find a grain that works, peeling
the entire panel and recovering might look better.

I've used that stuff in the past for recovering the "woodgrain" trim on
older cars; it works well for situations where you need a convincing
fake woodgrain without using actual veneer (which would be my real
recommendation, but then you have to do the whole vanity.)

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[Alan Meyer]

On 10/15/2013 03:52 PM, Oren wrote:

> On Tue, 15 Oct 2013 15:32:55 -0400, Alan Meyer <ame...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I have a bathroom vanity that got seriously wet and the exterior wood
>> look contact paper came loose from the vertical particle board structure
>> on part of the side of the vanity.
>>
>> I fixed the leak and dried everything out. Now I'd like to glue the
>> paper back to the particle board.
>>
>> Does anyone have suggestions for good adhesives to use? I'm looking for
>> something easy to work with, if possible, as well as having a good bond.
>>
>
> There are spray adhesives you can find locally: hobby shops have it,
> or perhaps "contact cement"... Spray types may be easier for you to
> work with.

Excellent idea. I hadn't realized that there were spray adhesives.

>> Also, any tips for getting a nice flat bond without wrinkles?
>>
>
> Holding the paper up and then use a squeegee may be an option for you.
>
> How big is the area needing adhesion?

I thought about a squeegee. That might work well if I've got a good
spray contact cement.

The area is about 20 x 9 inches.

Thanks for the advice.

Alan

[Alan Meyer]

Thanks Nate. I'll look for those products.

I thought about peeling and redoing but then I'd have to do the whole
vanity, not just the bottom of one side.

I've also thought about junking the vanity and putting in a new one.
It's 30+ years old and isn't in new condition, though I'm not sure I
could do it without help and the cost would be way higher than I think
is justified.

I'll try the simple fix with spray adhesive and see what happens (i.e.,
what my wife thinks :)

Thanks again.

Alan

[Oren]

On Tue, 15 Oct 2013 16:17:56 -0400, Alan Meyer <ame...@yahoo.com>

Let us know what works for you and how the project turns out. Folks
here like to hear back on results...

[Alan Meyer]

On 10/15/2013 08:17 PM, Oren wrote:
...

> Let us know what works for you and how the project turns out. Folks
> here like to hear back on results...

I will try to remember to do that Oren. If I don't find what I need in
the local shops I'll have to order something online, so there could be a
delay of a week or more, but I do believe that those who help, as you
and Nate have, are due the courtesy of a report on what happened.

Regards,

Alan

[nestork]

I had to install some vinyl wall paper once at my sister's house, and to
do it I needed a large wallpaper roller to get the wallpaper smooth and
flat against the wall.

Instead of buying one, cuz I knew I'd only be using it once, I bought a
foot of 2 inch ID ABS pipe and a 10 inch paint roller frame. Then, it
was just a matter of going to a paint store and finding the paint roller
nap thickness that would fit best between the two. You slide the paint
roller inside the pipe, and then slide them both onto the frame together
to make a poor man's wallpaper roller. I don't see why you couldn't do
the same thing with a 3 inch paint roller frame.

I'd use white wood glue, personally. Paint it onto the back of the
paper so the moisture from the glue softens up the paper, and then use
the roller to press the paper to the particle board.

White wood glue cleans up with a damp sponge and dries clear.




--
nestork

[Alan Meyer]

Interesting ideas. I'll experiment with different rolling techniques
before I put the glue on.

However I'm more inclined to use contact cement than white glue because
the paper has some "spring" in it and I don't think I can get it to lay
flat long enough for the glue to dry. With contact cement that should
be much less of a problem - though it also means I have to get it right
the first time and can't slide things around.

Thanks.

Alan

[ChairMan]

if you have a Home depot, most carry 3M 74 spray Adhesive.
it has an adjustable spray nozzle for narrow pattern to wide
web spray.
Blue tape off what you don't want glue on and go for it.
Wait a minute or two any roll it down. Price of a can is
9.99
If all you can get is 3M 77, mask off more area because it
has a definite overspray. more so than the 74

[dadiOH]

"Alan Meyer" <ame...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:l3l74o$tnf$1...@dont-email.me

> > I'd use white wood glue, personally. Paint it onto the
> > back of the paper so the moisture from the glue softens
> > up the paper, and then use the roller to press the
> > paper to the particle board. White wood glue cleans up with a damp
> > sponge and dries
> > clear.
>
> Interesting ideas. I'll experiment with different
> rolling techniques before I put the glue on.
>
> However I'm more inclined to use contact cement than
> white glue because the paper has some "spring" in it and
> I don't think I can get it to lay flat long enough for
> the glue to dry. With contact cement that should be much
> less of a problem - though it also means I have to get it
> right the first time and can't slide things around.

There are two other ways to use white glue.

1. Heat. White glue is thermoplastic which means that heat softens it. I
often use it to attach veneer as edge bands to plywood. I do so by painting
on a heavy layer of glue to the ply, letting it dry and then using a
household iron set at "high" to iron on the veneer.

2. Wet. When I was a photographer i used to mount largish (16x20 or larger)
B&W paper prints to 1/4" masonite for regidity and to keep the corners from
getting dinged. I did so by applying a heavy layer of glue to the masonite
and letting it dry. Once dry, I would use a wood chisel to cut off any
bumps caused by glue bubbles; I would then take the sopping wet photo and
squeegee it on to the masonite. Once dry, dynamite wouldn't get it off.
Note that the paper has expanded when wet; after it dries it shrinks and
becomes drum tight; it can also bend the substrate a bit.

I have done similar with edge banding: put glue on the ply, let dry then
spritz the veneer and/or ply edge with water and apply. This needs some
light pressure for a bit until the glue grabs.

Not saying either of these would be good for you, just saying.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

[Alan Meyer]

Thanks dadiOH.

Even if I never repair another thing, I would find this group
interesting to read for the wealth of experience people have accumulated.

Regards,

Alan

[Alan Meyer]

On 10/16/2013 02:15 AM, ChairMan wrote:

...

> if you have a Home depot, most carry 3M 74 spray Adhesive.
> it has an adjustable spray nozzle for narrow pattern to wide
> web spray.
> Blue tape off what you don't want glue on and go for it.
> Wait a minute or two any roll it down. Price of a can is
> 9.99
> If all you can get is 3M 77, mask off more area because it
> has a definite overspray. more so than the 74

Thanks ChairMan.

I was at Home Depot this afternoon. The only 3M I saw there was "3M
General Purpose 45". It was cheap and I figured it's only paper that
I'm going to glue on. It says you can spray it on, wait 5-15 seconds
for it to get tacky, then apply the paper within 5 minutes.

However, I haven't used it yet. If you've used that and think it's a
bad idea, I'll take it back.

Alan

[Higgs Boson]

I'm not even on this thread; just wanted to second, third, and fourth your comment about these folks. It's an education just to follow the debate on what procedure/product would be optimum for "x" problem!

HB

[TomR]

My 1st vote would be to try Loctite Power Grab adhesive:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pg_ca_all_p_clr/overview/Loctite-Power-Grab-All-Purpose-Clear-Construction-Adhesive-Cartridge.htm .



I have used spray adhesives, contact cement, etc. when trying to glue to
particle board and haven't had very good results.



The Loctite Power Grab (there are also other types of Loctite, but I'd vote
for "Power Grab") goes on white and looks like white silicone caulk, but it
dries clear. I think you may be able to put it on the particle board,
spread it out to make an even coating, and then press the part you are
gluing onto the glue to make the bonds. It stays workable, so you then may
be able to smooth out the top surface with a straight-edge.



Or, my 2nd vote would be to try something like

DAP Kwik Seal Tub & Tile Adhesive Caulk
http://www.tools4flooring.com/dap-kwik-seal-tub-tile-adhesive-caulk-p-195.html .



It is like tub and tile caulk, but it is adhesive. You have to get
"adhesive" caulk, not regular caulk.



Both are inexpensive and maybe there is a way to do a little test area or
one or the other.



Good luck.

[Alan Meyer]

I taped newspaper all around the area to be glued, sprayed 3M 45 spray
adhesive on both the paper and the particle board, waited about 60
seconds, and then attempted to bond the paper to the board using my
hands and some large sponges to smooth things down.

The results are not perfect. The adhesive worked fine and allowed me to
pull the paper up and try again when I couldn't get it smooth. It had
just about the right amount of tack. However the paper was wrinkled and
distorted before I started and, try as I might, I couldn't get it to lie
perfectly flat on the underlying board. So there are some wrinkles.

My wife thinks I should have pulled the paper off completely and redone
it from scratch. She's probably right, though I don't know that I could
have gotten a great match with the paper on other sides of the cabinet
and I didn't want to commit to redoing the whole thing.

I'm hoping she'll get used to it :)

My thanks to all of you who gave advice.

Alan

[Oren]

On Sun, 20 Oct 2013 14:58:36 -0400, Alan Meyer <ame...@yahoo.com>
wrote:

...

>I taped newspaper all around the area to be glued, sprayed 3M 45 spray
>adhesive on both the paper and the particle board, waited about 60
>seconds, and then attempted to bond the paper to the board using my
>hands and some large sponges to smooth things down.
>
>The results are not perfect. The adhesive worked fine and allowed me to
>pull the paper up and try again when I couldn't get it smooth. It had
>just about the right amount of tack. However the paper was wrinkled and
>distorted before I started and, try as I might, I couldn't get it to lie
>perfectly flat on the underlying board. So there are some wrinkles.
>
>My wife thinks I should have pulled the paper off completely and redone
>it from scratch. She's probably right, though I don't know that I could
>have gotten a great match with the paper on other sides of the cabinet
>and I didn't want to commit to redoing the whole thing.
>
>I'm hoping she'll get used to it :)
>
>My thanks to all of you who gave advice.
>
> Alan

Thanks for the follow-up.

A side note:

I've seen an install of glue down vinyl flooring which had a couple of
bubbles in it. The fix was to use a needle, puncture a hole to allow
the air out, then place a weight on the area until it stuck. The
bubble was gone like nothing happened :)

[dadiOH]

"Alan Meyer" <ame...@yahoo.com> wrote in message

news:l4194t$ofj$1...@dont-email.me

> On 10/15/2013 03:32 PM, Alan Meyer wrote:
> > I have a bathroom vanity that got seriously wet and the
> > exterior wood look contact paper came loose from the
> > vertical particle board structure on part of the side
> > of the vanity. I fixed the leak and dried everything out. Now I'd
> > like to glue the paper back to the particle board.
> >
> > Does anyone have suggestions for good adhesives to use?
> > I'm looking for something easy to work with, if
> > possible, as well as having a good bond. Also, any tips for getting a
> > nice flat bond without
> > wrinkles? Thank you very much.
> >
> > Alan
>
> I taped newspaper all around the area to be glued,
> sprayed 3M 45 spray adhesive on both the paper and the
> particle board, waited about 60 seconds, and then
> attempted to bond the paper to the board using my hands
> and some large sponges to smooth things down.
> The results are not perfect. The adhesive worked fine
> and allowed me to pull the paper up and try again when I
> couldn't get it smooth. It had just about the right
> amount of tack. However the paper was wrinkled and
> distorted before I started and, try as I might, I
> couldn't get it to lie perfectly flat on the underlying
> board. So there are some wrinkles.

You might try a steam iron although I suspect it is too late.

Thanks for reporting back.

[Alan Meyer]

On 10/20/2013 02:58 PM, Alan Meyer wrote:
...

> The results are not perfect. The adhesive worked fine and allowed me to
> pull the paper up and try again when I couldn't get it smooth. It had
> just about the right amount of tack. However the paper was wrinkled and
> distorted before I started and, try as I might, I couldn't get it to lie
> perfectly flat on the underlying board. So there are some wrinkles.

...

I could try the needle or the steam iron approaches.

I think the problem was not caused by air bubbles, though there is air
trapped in the wrinkles, but by the paper having been distorted by
moisture. I dried it all out completely before doing anything, but it
never returned to its original state.

Personally, I'm fine with it, but if my wife wants me to I'll work on it
some more.

Otherwise, when they finally drag my carcass out of the house, my son
and son-in-law, who are both more energetic about these kinds of things
than I am, can deal with it however they choose. :)

Alan