The walls are dry. There is some efflorescence on the brick below
grade. It powers and bubbles a bit, but it is a slow growing process.
I believe that what I need to do is put 1x3 wood strapping on the
brick, and drywall over the strapping.
1.) Any tips on fixing the strapping to the brick? Tapcons will be a
very laborious process. Can I use masonry nails to lag them onto the
brick (or mortar)?
2.) That done, any special tips on dealing with the drywall?
Thanks,
Ian
Use 2 x 4, insulate, then sheetrock. You can anchor the frame into the
floor and ceiling. You can also use something like www.insofast.com but I
have no idea if they are available in your area.
That's what I did over block walls. Also added a layer of polyethylene
film over the block first and insulated between the 2x4's. Did not need
to attach to wall.
Don't use regular drywall- use the non-paper-coated stuff. Basement may
seem dry, but even slight humidity over time will give drywall that
funky basement smell. It costs a little more than regular drywall, but
IMHO it is cheap insurance.
--
aem sends...
I like the 2x4 solution suggested by others as the best choice.
If that doesn't work for you apply at least 4 mil plastic over the bricks
before you add your 1x3 wood strapping.
I would use exterior, galvanized fasteners if I did not use Tapcons.
--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com
Sorry, I don't follow why Tapcons are labourious compared to driving
masonry nails. Do you have arms like The Hulk?
Tapcons, a 1/2" hammer drill w/ masonry bit and an 18v cordless drill
with a long driver bit is pretty quick unless you don't have anybody
to hold the furring up to the wall for you.
Chris
First thought -- old brick has a nice warm feel about it. Maybe keep
a feature wall.
Now, to your question:
1) If space is at an absolute premium, you can drywall against the
brick, assuming the wall is reasonably plumb. I'd just PL Premium
the board against the brick ... drill a few tapcons INTO MORTAR
JOINTS to hold the board while the glue sets up. You can remove these
screws or not, later.
This doesn't deal with insulating and vapour barrier -- you're better
off and warmer with (2).....
2) If you can spare four and a half inches, frame a wall in front of
the brick with two by four, insulate with R12 and poly, then board
in the normal way.
special tips on drywall ? Just the usual.
Figure out ahead of time how you will get the board into the basement.
Drywall companies will deliver AND PLACE the drywall into the
basement, assuming you're doing more than just a couple of hundred
square feet. Board and delivery usually works out to what you'd pay to
wrestle the stuff home from HD or such.
Order lengths (8, 10, 12, 14 footers) to fit wall lengths. Google
installing drywall to see how to fit into room walls.
Ceiling first, then walls. If you can find a pro who will board and
tape for you, grab him. Save you money and aggravation.
If you can't, download a video and invest in some tools.
LOL = lots of luck.
Ken in Calgary
Here in Florida, most houses are concrete block. Common insulation is 1"
foam sheets. Drywall is nailed to 1" *pressure treated* strips which are
nailed to CB with a pneumatic nail gun. In Toronto, I'd want more
insulation; hell, at the moment I'd like more here too :(
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
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Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Bricks are usually laid with the outside edge true. This may mean the
inside can be a little wonky. If this is the case you wont be able to
fasten to the wall.....so check your wall with a straight edge before
you start attaching framing to it.
Jimmie
"Ian Stock" <ians...@stocknet.ca> wrote in message
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