Adapter to allow 110v plug into a 220v outlet?
Paul Ferguson
breaker. I have had the occasional need to use a 110 volt tool in this
space. I only plug either a 110 volt tool or a 220 volt tool -- I
never have a need for both.
I would like an adapter that would plug into the 220 v outlet and give
me a 110 v outlet. I do not see these adapters available commercially.
Is there a reason? Do these violate a code?
I would seem that one could build a short extension cord to do this
job -- using only one of the black wires from the 220 v circiuit to
yield a 110 v connection on the other end.
Paul
Paul
Paul.F...@pobox.com
-G.
You'd need to install a proper 120v outlet with appropriate over current
protection. If you 'convert' your 40 amp 220v outlet, it will not be
protected for it's amp rating. Anything you plug into it could burn up
and/or start a fire.
Paul Ferguson wrote:
> I would like an adapter that would plug into the 220 v outlet and give
> me a 110 v outlet. I do not see these adapters available commercially.
> Is there a reason? Do these violate a code?
>
>
--
And now...'Stupid Instructions'.
ON A STRING OF CHINESE MADE CHRISTMAS LIGHTS:
For indoor or outdoor use only.
Eric Tonks
sold for people who switched to a gas stove, and needed to plug in the
electrics of the gas stove into the old electric stove receptacle. It had a
built in 15A fuse to protect the outlet, and to meet code (you cannot plug
in a low amp device into a 40w fused line).
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Paul Ferguson wrote in message
<08l09ts183qglkp6c...@4ax.com>...
Chris Lewis
> You'd need to install a proper 120v outlet with appropriate over current
> protection. If you 'convert' your 40 amp 220v outlet, it will not be
> protected for it's amp rating. Anything you plug into it could burn up
> and/or start a fire.
If it's a three prong 220V outlet, you can't convert to 120VF anyways, because
there no neutral.
Extension cords are cheap.
--
Chris Lewis,
For more information on spam, see http://spam.abuse.net/spam
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
TakeThisOut
>>breaker. I have had the occasional need to use a 110 volt tool in this
>>space. I only plug either a 110 volt tool or a 220 volt tool -- I
>>never have a need for both.
>>
>>I would like an adapter that would plug into the 220 v outlet and give
>>me a 110 v outlet. I do not see these adapters available commercially.
>>Is there a reason? Do these violate a code?
>>
>>I would seem that one could build a short extension cord to do this
>>job -- using only one of the black wires from the 220 v circiuit to
>>yield a 110 v connection on the other end.
>>
>>
>>Paul
>>Paul
>>Paul.F...@pobox.com
>
I find it a little odd that any space could have a 40a 220v outlet for a heater
and no available outlet nearby for convenience.
At any rate, you could rig up a converter cord yourself, using a 40a 220v range
cord, a 4 &11/16 junction box with an adaptor cover that holds a fuse and
houses a standard outlet.
To do this the 40a 220v outlet must be the 4-prong type, and the material will
be somewhat expensive. I figure an entire 250' roll of 12/2 NM cable and any
common breaker, box of staples, outlet box and device & cover will cost much
less and solve your problem permanently and safely.
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TAKETHISOUT budysbackagain(@)THAT TOO a-oh-ell dot com
TDuffy1770
>If it's a three prong 220V outlet, you can't convert to 120VF anyways,
>because
>there no neutral.
You know, down here a lot of 220V appliances use a neutral in the control
circuitry and the controls are @ 120V. Aren't the appliances that way up
there? BTW, that third prong is usually a grounded conductor, isn't it.
>Extension cords are cheap.
And dangerous on an appliance; what's your point?
Duff
30 years in the IBEW
-G.
Who said anything about a 3 prong 220v outlet?
Chris Lewis wrote:
> If it's a three prong 220V outlet, you can't convert to 120VF anyways, because
> there no neutral.
>
> Extension cords are cheap.
> --
> Chris Lewis,
--
Chris Lewis
> Chris is that the way a 220V, 3 prong outlet is wired up there by you?
> >If it's a three prong 220V outlet, you can't convert to 120VF anyways,
> >because
> >there no neutral.
> You know, down here a lot of 220V appliances use a neutral in the control
> circuitry and the controls are @ 120V. Aren't the appliances that way up
> there? BTW, that third prong is usually a grounded conductor, isn't it.
Stoves and dryers are 240V/120V (four wire) here, just like they are down
there. (oh, let's not get into how the NEC just switched to four for stoves
and dryers).
240V only circuits (welders, 240V heaters, 240V motors) only have three
prongs.
It isn't clear whether the guy is talking about a a 240V only or 240V/120V
outlet. That's why I asked.
> >Extension cords are cheap.
> And dangerous on an appliance; what's your point?
He's explicitly refering to 120V power tools.
Chris Lewis
> What does that mean?
> Who said anything about a 3 prong 220v outlet?
I said "_if_ it's a 3 prong 220V outlet", in contrast to a 240V/120V
outlet.
If it's a 240V/120V outlet, it has a neutral. Theoretically, he could
get 120V off it. But it would be unsafe because the breaker is way too
large.
If it's a pure 220V outlet, it has no neutral, and can't provide 120V.
Michael Edelman
>
> Chris is that the way a 220V, 3 prong outlet is wired up there by you?
>
> >If it's a three prong 220V outlet, you can't convert to 120VF anyways,
> >because
> >there no neutral.
>
Some 220V outlets have a neutral and no ground. Some have a ground and
no neutral. Appliance outlets that are up to current code have both.
But it's still a mistake to use some sort of adapter.
--
---------------------------------------------------------------
Michael Edelman m...@spamcop.net
http://www.foldingkayaks.org (nomadics)
http://www.findascope.com (choosing a telescope)
Chris Lewis
> TDuffy1770 wrote:
> > Chris is that the way a 220V, 3 prong outlet is wired up there by you?
> > >If it's a three prong 220V outlet, you can't convert to 120VF anyways,
> > >because
> > >there no neutral.
> Some 220V outlets have a neutral and no ground.
This has been illegal since the time that grounding was introduced.
You may be confused by old-fashioned stove/dryer receptacles in 220V/110V
circuits. In those, the third wire is used as both ground and neutral.
> Some have a ground and no neutral.
A true 220V circuit.
> Appliance outlets that are up to current code have both.
Stove and dryer circuits have both ground and neutral because they're
220V/110V circuits. Not "pure 220V".
Pure "220V" outlets have three wires - two hots and a ground. No neutral.
JJJbeans
>> What does that mean?
>> Who said anything about a 3 prong 220v outlet?
>
>I said "_if_ it's a 3 prong 220V outlet", in contrast to a 240V/120V
>outlet.
>
>If it's a 240V/120V outlet, it has a neutral. Theoretically, he could
>get 120V off it. But it would be unsafe because the breaker is way too
>large.
>
>If it's a pure 220V outlet, it has no neutral, and can't provide 120V.
Except for possibly some ancient wiring, residential power, as it comes
from the pole transformer secondary, is 220.
The transformer is center-tapped, and these
3 wires go to the house. You then get 220 across the 2 transformer terminals
and 110 across either terminal and the center-tap.
Half the house 110 comes from one terminal and center-tap, and half from the
other. The center tap is grounded at the pole, putting it at approximate
ground potential at the house, or "neutral". Almost all, if not all, codes
require the neutral to be grounded at the box also. I don't think there is any
residential service that delivers only a "pure" 220, which would be only the
transformer terminals and no center-tap.
Electrically, the original poster should be able to use an adapter to get from
220 to 110 as he wanted. However, he cannot do so safely. The 220 house wiring
expects the heavy current to be between the two "hots", and the wire for the
ground is a
safety wire and not a working wire, and may not have been wired with a heavy
enough gauge to safely handle the current it would now be required to carry.
This is not the case for the rest of the house 110 wiring, which is gauged for
working current.
posta...@gmail.com
Scott Lurndal
>Home Hardware
>http://m.homehardware.ca/h5/m/en/r/hh//en/rec/index.htm/Plumbing-Electrical/Electrical/Extension-Cords/Interior/Miscellaneous/110-220-Volt-Range-Plug-Adapter/_/N-ntjxm/R-I3625232
What about it? It plugs into a four-wire 240v receptacle and uses
one leg of that to provide 120v. Perfectly safe and perfectly legal.
TimR
> Home Hardware
> http://m.homehardware.ca/h5/m/en/r/hh//en/rec/index.htm/Plumbing-Electrical/Electrical/Extension-Cords/Interior/Miscellaneous/110-220-Volt-Range-Plug-Adapter/_/N-ntjxm/R-I3625232
It's a 15 year old thread. The OP was long since electrocuted.
Not a single person in that thread thought about a transformer. Anywhere there is a military presence, thrift shops are full of them. Any time you get sent to Europe, where all the power is 220, you run your stuff on transformers that give you 110. (doesn't work for clocks) (DAMHIKT)
Retired
has two (2) 120V legs and 1 neutral. UK has 1 220V leg and 1 neutral.
My step-mother in London had a favorite US model vacuum cleaner she
ran on a 110/220 transformer.
gfre...@aol.com
you just have a 3 prong range plug, not so much.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
220/240 world is 60Hz, the rest is 50hz.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
other low powered electrical devices I took along with me. The same
transformwer could be used in reverse to run 220/240 volt items from
120 volt power.