Dishwasher leak
John Richards
years ago (at least) we noticed that when the washer was running, the water
pipes would start hammering. Turning on a faucett anywhere in the house
would stop the hammering. At the time I thought it was a valve that might
be closing too fast but never did anything about it. The last two times we
ran the washer, we noticed water on the floor which looks like it came from
under the washer. We also realized at about the same time that there was no
water pipe hammering. My suspicion is a bad water inlet valve which was
probably responsible for the hammering and now the leak (the door gasket
appears to be fine). A new valve is available locally for $25 so I thought
I would take a shot at fixing it myself.
Would anyone care to comment on my diagnosis? Is it a fairly easy project
to replace the valve as far as getting to it (I haven't pulled the
dishwasher out yet so don't know exactly where the valve is) and are there
any special tools required?
Thanks
John
Curmudgeon
running...that's when it's under the most pressure.
But, changing one out is not difficult. Getting the machine pulled out is
probably the hardest part of the job...and that ain't much either.
Depending on how the water line is hooked up, a crescent wrench or an open
end wrench, screwdriver and maybe a pair of pliers is all you'll need.
"John Richards" <jric...@twcny.rr.com> wrote in message
news:IOJ_b.84157$%72.8...@twister.nyroc.rr.com...
John Richards
"Curmudgeon" <ga...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:flK_b.1907$0k2....@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
> A bad inlet valve is more likely to leak when the machine is NOT
> running...that's when it's under the most pressure.
That sounds reasonable, but I thought it too much of a coincidence that
(assuming my pipes were hammering because of a chattering inlet valve) the
hammering stopped at the same time the dishwasher started leaking. I am
open to any other ideas.
Thanks for your help
John
jeff
Hi,
That leak could be from anywhere, time to remove the lower access
panals and have a peek with a flash light. The banging pipes may be a
bad fill valve, but the fill valves rarely leak. No special tools
required to change the fill valve. Turn the water tap off first, it is
a fairly easy job :)
http://www.applianceaid.com/dishleaks.html
*Some* common leaks.
http://www.applianceaid.com/dishaccess.html
How to remove -some- access panals.
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/
John Richards
On a Kenmore dishwasher, is it possible that water could be leaking from one
of the holes in the edge of the tub that holds the clips that hold the tub
gasket in place? If so would there be any harm in just putting some
polyseamseal behind the gasket over the hole to seal it?
Long version:
I have a Kenmore dishwasher that had developed a serious leak predominantly
on one side. Suspecting the water inlet valve I pulled the dishwasher out
and determined that the problem was the baffle seal and the tub gasket - I
could actually see the water spitting out with the lower front panel
removed. I replaced the seal and gasket and put everything back together
confident that it was OK, only to find out that it was still leaking, but
only a little and on the opposite side from the serious leak.
I pulled the panel off again so I could see the bottom egde of the tub.
There were no leaks from around the baffle seal but water would sometimes
run and drip from behind the edge of the tub, but there don't seem to be any
joints or connections in the area - I verified this when I pulled the
dishwasher out again. I did see some evidence of a possible leak from the
hole in the tub that takes one of the clips that hold the tub gasket in
place though it seems to be sealed from inside by the gasket. I am tempted
to just put some polyseamseal under the gasket to totally seal the hole.
Any reason why this might be a bad idea? Any other comments?
Thanks
John
jeff
Hi,
> Short version:
>
> On a Kenmore dishwasher, is it possible that water could be leaking from one
> of the holes in the edge of the tub that holds the clips that hold the tub
> gasket in place?
Yes.
> If so would there be any harm in just putting some
> polyseamseal behind the gasket over the hole to seal it?
Something food grade is best.
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=679589
White silicone adhesive, specially formulated for use in the
dishwasher.
If the gasket is getting hard it may need to be replaced. Lock/latch
should be checked.
jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/
Dan O.
John Richards wrote in message ...
>
>I have a Kenmore dishwasher
Posting the model number would help us to know what design it is
(they're not all the same). You can find tips for locating the model
and serial number tag on your appliances in the 'Repair Parts' section
of my site linked below.
>had developed a serious leak predominantly on one side.
>I pulled the dishwasher out and determined that the
>problem was the baffle seal and the tub gasket - I could
>actually see the water spitting out with the lower front
>panel removed. I replaced the seal and gasket and
>put everything back together confident that it was OK,
>only to find out that it was still leaking, but only a little
>and on the opposite side from the serious leak.
>
>I pulled the panel off again so I could see the bottom
>egde of the tub. There were no leaks from around the
>baffle seal but water would sometimes run and drip
>from behind the edge of the tub, but there don't seem
>to be any joints or connections in the area - I verified
>this when I pulled the dishwasher out again.
Make sure water isn't being directed right at the door area like can
be caused by a split spray arm, spray arm sticking or being obstructed
or a separated pump housing.
> I did see some evidence of a possible leak from the
>hole in the tub that takes one of the clips that hold the
>tub gasket in place though it seems to be sealed
>from inside by the gasket. I am tempted to just put
>some polyseamseal under the gasket to totally seal
>the hole.
>
>Any reason why this might be a bad idea?
As long as it is 'food grade' and non-toxic! You can't use anything
toxic around food appliances without taking the chance it will affect
your family's health.
I personally suggest you exhaust all other possible courses of action
before you start gluing things in place. JMO
Dan O.
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Appliance411.com
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=Ð~~~~~~