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HELP - Atlantic Suitcase Screw Removal

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Tom Williams

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Sep 6, 2012, 11:30:00 AM9/6/12
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I have some older Atlantic two wheel rolling suitcases in need of
wheel replacement. There are what appears to be phillips head screws
on the outside of the suitcase that go into in attachment inside,
behind the lining.

I can get to the attachment, and when trying to remove the screws I
fail. I can hold part of the attachment with plyers and the screw
rotates, but won't back out. I have tried pulling on the attachment
while turning the screw, which should help with stripped threads, but
no removal.

Does anybody have any suggestions.

Thanks,

Tom Williams
tomwms at comcast (dot) net

Robert Macy

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Sep 6, 2012, 4:44:23 PM9/6/12
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I've worked with these people over the years, and find them very
responsive.

Travelpro International, Inc. (800) 741-7471
PO Box 810755
Boca Raton, FL 33481-0755
http://www.atlanticluggage.com

Oren

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Sep 6, 2012, 7:18:53 PM9/6/12
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On Thu, 06 Sep 2012 08:30:00 -0700, Tom Williams <tom...@comcast.net>
wrote:
I'd check the phone book for a luggage repair shop.

cl...@snyder.on.ca

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Sep 6, 2012, 8:36:30 PM9/6/12
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They are philips head rivets. Another smart idea from those clever
chinese.

DerbyDad03

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Sep 6, 2012, 8:57:34 PM9/6/12
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Is the Phillips head just for show or does it serve a purpose?

Based on this picture it seems like it's just for show.

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/504401609/Special_Rivet_with_Phillip_Head_and.html

micky

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Sep 7, 2012, 2:39:29 AM9/7/12
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Maybe they are to give you something to do after you retire.

nestork

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Sep 7, 2012, 11:06:01 PM9/7/12
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I'd expect that most dedicated luggage stores also repair luggage.

Instead of fighting with this, I'd just talk to any luggage store in
your area and ask about those rivets. If it doesn't seem like a big
deal to them, I'm thinking they have a way of replacing those rivets
easily, and if you buy the new wheels from them, they might just install
them for you free of charge while you wait.




--
nestork

toolworker

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Oct 19, 2014, 7:44:02 PM10/19/14
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replying to nestork , toolworker wrote:
For the record -

Ignore those Philips head rivets.

Unzip the lining. There is what looks like a flat metal bearing in a
channel at the inside of the wheel axle. Pull it out of the channel with
a long nose pliers. This exposes a real Philips head screw which is the
wheel axle. Unscrew and pull it out and the wheel can be rmoved.

--


Charlie17T

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Apr 25, 2016, 12:44:05 PM4/25/16
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replying to Tom Williams, Charlie17T wrote:
I dont' think you have phillips screws but rather rivits that are either
peaned over, or have a lock mechanism on the inside. You can either drill
them out, or pull off the self locking washer on the inside, and then take the
pieces to Lowes or Home depot to get stainless steel screw, nut and lock
washer to put back together. If you are having to replace the wheel, and
have access to the inside of the wheel well where the wheel shaft goes through
the corner wheel housing, I would strong advise that you purchase a few fluid
ounces of high strength two part epoxy, mix it up, and pour into the wheel
well to create a more solid support housing. This will depend on the type of
corner wheel well you have, and if the shaft is fixed and not rotating. I
re=engineered my wheels with all staineless steel screws, new nylong roller
blade wheels with low friction ball bearing, and used a stainless steel bolt
as the new shaft. I had to design a temporary shaft tube, that could be used
to keep the epoxy from leaking out of the hole where I put the new stainelss
steel bolt. One I poured the epoxy into the wheel well, put the new
stainless steel wheel shaft in place along with the new roller, the result was
an extremely strong roller bearing system, much better than the original
design. The original design of the wheel is not so good... as I'd had wheel
failures on both over time... so I redesigned the system after understanding
the weakness in the design. Once complete the result was an extremley strong
set of wheel that will not break apart since you have the added strong epoxy
plastic that replaces the thin housing material, without the solld inside
material for support. If you can see my email shoot me a note and I'll send
pics.

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/help-atlantic-suitcase-screw-removal-712577-.htm


DerbyDad03

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Apr 25, 2016, 1:26:52 PM4/25/16
to
On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 12:44:05 PM UTC-4, Charlie17T wrote:
> replying to Tom Williams, Charlie17T wrote:

> I dont' think you have phillips screws

I don't think you know how to read dates on threads

Oren

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Apr 25, 2016, 2:10:26 PM4/25/16
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On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 10:26:47 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

>On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 12:44:05 PM UTC-4, Charlie17T wrote:
>> replying to Tom Williams, Charlie17T wrote:
>
>> I dont' think you have phillips screws
>
>I don't think you know how to read dates on threads
>

I don't think the suit case, stolen or lost by the airlines was every
found.

Whatever

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May 29, 2016, 12:44:06 AM5/29/16
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replying to DerbyDad03, Whatever wrote:
No need to be rude. Besides, thanks to Google. threads can live forever. I
just came across this and found Charlie17T's reply very helpful, 2 years after
the prior post.

Alex

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Dec 12, 2016, 11:44:07 AM12/12/16
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replying to toolworker, Alex wrote:
Thanks! That was the correct answer!!

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/help-atlantic-suitcase-screw-removal-712577-.htm


Charlie17T

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Dec 12, 2016, 12:14:05 PM12/12/16
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replying to nestork, Charlie17T wrote:
THX. I re-engineered both entire wheel systems. I'd had the wheels
replaced once before and they lasted a year. The design is poor, the shaft
is plastic, and the housing in hollow plastic. So I bought two roller blade
wheels drilled holes to insert a S.S. Bolt and Lock Cap Nut to become the new
axle, then poured epoxy into the space surrounding the new bolt (now axle) and
that provided me with an ultra strong and sturdy encasement for the shaft...
this is much better than the plastic insert shaft. (I also screwed into the
wheel support housing a few S.S. screws to add additional support after the
epoxy hardened.

michealespinola

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May 8, 2018, 6:44:06 PM5/8/18
to
replying to toolworker, michealespinola wrote:
My luggage has a wooden plate the partial blocks the screw from coming out. I
cant seem to figure out how to remove this plate first. Do you have any
suggestions?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/help-atlantic-suitcase-screw-removal-712577-.htm


Oren

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May 9, 2018, 2:40:07 PM5/9/18
to
On Tue, 08 May 2018 22:44:02 GMT, michealespinola
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:

>My luggage has a wooden plate the partial blocks the screw from coming out. I
>cant seem to figure out how to remove this plate first. Do you have any
>suggestions?

Got a framing hammer? Rip the damn wood off.

Tekkie®

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May 10, 2018, 2:59:17 PM5/10/18
to
Oren posted for all of us...
I think there is more than one screw loose here and it ain't Oren.

--
Tekkie

Ann

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Mar 15, 2021, 2:32:10 PM3/15/21
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Was able to expose the wheel axle and unscrew, but there isn't enough clearance to remove the wheel axle.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/help-atlantic-suitcase-screw-removal-712577-.htm

toolworker

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Mar 15, 2021, 6:01:04 PM3/15/21
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It's been a long time, but IIRC once the screw is out, the wheel can be pried out. The axle is part of the wheel and is probably stuck in the housing. Put a screwdriver behind the wheel and pry it out.

michealespinola

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Mar 15, 2021, 9:01:07 PM3/15/21
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I concur (its been two years now). I managed to pry mine out as well, and successfully replaced my wheels. It was an awkward procedure, but it worked and went back together easier than taking it apart. I haven't had any problems at all since the replacement.

toolworker

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Mar 15, 2021, 9:31:15 PM3/15/21
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Or pry the sides of the housing apart slightly and the wheel should come out. Whichever is easier.

PeteD

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Dec 6, 2021, 1:02:58 PM12/6/21
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Advice from toolworker is spot on. Removed both wheels as described. Bought 2 rollerblade wheels for $6 each from a sporting goods store (brought old wheels w/ me to get correct size). Popped out bearings from old wheels with a screwdriver & put them into the rollerblade wheels, perfect fit. Installed new wheels, now better than new!
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