Wall anchors for fireplace mantle
Andy
brick wall.
I will also hang a fireplace mantle and she said it is heavy.
I have packed my masonary bits.
What recommendations for hangars for the mantle?
I used Cobra masonary anchors to hang some heavy wrought iron burglar
bars for a customer.
Have a great day,
Andy
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hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
Isn't the mantle partly recessed into the surrounding area?? Is it
wood, tile, brick?????
aemeijers
What is behind the brick? Is it a modern house with a brick veneer over
a studded wall, or is it old-school, and the interior of the fireplace
is the same stack of brick you see from outside? A good clue is if the
firebox is metal, even metal with a thin layer of firebrick, and
especially if (like on my 1978 fireplace, and most recent fireplaces),
the frigging chimney stack is wood.
Not sure what would work on veneer, maybe lag bolts all the way into the
studs. Unless I knew there were tie straps holding the brick veneer
solidly to the wall, I'd be reluctant to put a lot of lateral load on
what is basically a stack of bricks. If a traditional fireplace, a DEEP
hole (at least 1/3 as deep as the part sticking out), and rebar epoxied
into the hole, and allowed to cure before pushing the mantel over it.
Back in stone age, my father got them to pick the mantel before
fireplace was laid, and his mason spotted rebar J-hooks into the
structure. This was mainly 'rustic' mantels back then, not the Norm
Abrams fussy cabinetry style ones. Those old barn beam sections were not
light.
--
aem sends...
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
>
> - Show quoted text -
The OP only mentioned brick behind the cue stick holder, he/she didn't
say anything about the wall around and above the fireplace. That's
why I asked what it was made of. Waiting for the OP to
reply-------------
Andy
wrote:
I won't know all the details till I get to her house.
Since she already bought it, I would venture to say that I will mount
it similar to mounting
a shelf to a wall.
The brick wall is the same as you would find in the exterior of a
house.
Maybe I should drill into the brick proper and not into the mortar,
and then insert the anchor bolts
to give it additional strength.
Andy
jamesgangnc
>
> - Show quoted text -
I'd use the regular lead inserts into the mortar. Use more for the
mantle if it's really that heavy. I would not drill into the brick
because if anyone's plans ever change it is a lot easier to repair the
holes in the mortar.
Andy
Excellent point.
Andy
Joe
>snip<
If a traditional fireplace, a DEEP
> hole (at least 1/3 as deep as the part sticking out), and rebar epoxied
> into the hole, and allowed to cure before pushing the mantel over it.
> snip<
Rather than rebar, epoxy some stainless steel or even zinc plated
threaded rod into a hole in the brick. The threads should offer a lot
of surface area for bonding and no nasty mill scale to weaken the
bond.
Drilling into mortar as mentioned above is poor practice at best due
the difference in strength of the materials, i.e., the support is
dependent on the bond of the mortar to the brick, an iffy situation.
Another alternative I have used for mounting electrical service panels
was drilling relatively good sized holes for an oak dowels and
epoxying those in place for the mounting screws. The electrical
inspector seemed to like that approach a lot. On one job we mounted a
painted plywood panel to the old brick foundation wall first with
epoxied in dowels and the service panel was then installed.
Some combination of these techniques should produce a very stout
mounting for the mantle.
Joe
Joe
Andy
Based on mounting heavy ornamental wrought iron burglar bars, I would
have to disagree about drilling into the mortar.
I visited my "handy work" several years later, and they are still
hanging fine.
To use a modified quote from Star Wars,
"Those Cobra wall anchors were impressive."
Andy