Thinking that perhaps something is clogged in the carburetor/jet, I
replaced the whole carb with a new one. The result is exactly the same.
I have fresh gas, use Sta-Bil, etc. I'm not overly worried about it, I
just use two clicks of choke for best power.
However, I suspect that I'm not getting the full 7.5 hp with the choke
restricting air intake. I'm also curious what the problem is. A
repairman said that all engines are tuned lean due to EPA rules. Of
course there is no way to adjust the mixture.
Any ideas what causes this? Is the repairman right about the mixture
set overly lean on purpose?
Ii assume this is one of the new carbs that isn't designed to be
easily
adjusted? The point about being set to run lean is interesting. I
have a Sears two stroke blower and it too usually runs best with the
choke set to half on. As soon as you move the choke to off, you can
hear it slow down.
One way for it to be running lean, even with a new carb, is an air
leak,
eg between the carb and manifold, leaking head gasket, etc.
If you feel that the carb is not the problem, the next thing to check
(in order) would be manifold gasket, cracked manifold, head gasket,
sticky exhuast valve ( carboned or gummed up not allowing it to close
completely, or closes sluggishly).
Hank
I'd check the air filter and be sure it is clean or new. Does it run
better with the filter removed, not needing the choke...
Also look at the spark plug. Adjust the plug gap a little (open or
close it a tad) and see what happens or replace the plug. Make sure
you have the correct/recommenced plug.
Spark Plug Chart:
<http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm>
Mal-adjusted choke position; no-choke is bringing it backwards, partly
closing in the opposite direction. Watch the flapper work with air filter
removed. Note: Tuning will be different with air filter removed so don't
forget to account for that.
:::
::: Thinking that perhaps something is clogged in the
::: carburetor/jet, I replaced the whole carb with a new one.
::: The result is exactly the same.
Did you check for full fuel-flow from the tank to the filter and filter to
the carb? Partial plug or kink in the hose can pinch off gas supply partly &
make run lean.
:::
::: I have fresh gas, use Sta-Bil, etc. I'm not overly
::: worried about it, I just use two clicks of choke for best
::: power.
Empty tank & refill with fresh gas newly purchased. If this is last year's
gas it could do that, especially if there is an over abundance of Stabil in
the gas.
:::
::: However, I suspect that I'm not getting the full 7.5 hp
::: with the choke restricting air intake. I'm also curious
::: what the problem is. A repairman said that all engines
::: are tuned lean due to EPA rules. Of course there is no
::: way to adjust the mixture.
I suggest he's blowing smoke; that's still no reason to have the choke to
any position but OFF when the engine has warmed up.
If it has a carburator and burns gasoline, there most definitely IS a way to
adjust the mixture!! Check the carb documentation or the machine's
paperwork.
:::
::: Any ideas what causes this? Is the repairman right about
::: the mixture set overly lean on purpose?
I think he just wanted you off the phone. Irrelevant to what you're having
to do to keep it running right.
:::
:::
:::
::
:: I'd check the air filter and be sure it is clean or new.
:: Does it run better with the filter removed, not needing
:: the choke...
::
:: Also look at the spark plug. Adjust the plug gap a little
:: (open or close it a tad) and see what happens or replace
:: the plug. Make sure you have the correct/recommenced plug.
Better to check/adjust the plug gap to precisely what it is supposed to be.
Usually it's 0.030" for that size B&S in my experience.
::
:: Spark Plug Chart:
::
:: <http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm>
Air filter, fuel filter (if you find water, also the gas tank), choke
flapper needs adjust, lo-speed screw, low-oil shutoff, fuel line partly
plugged, and so on.
Does it start easy and then run rough, or is it also hard to start? Stabil
makes them hard to start, especially if excessive amount is collected in the
carb. bowl.
HTH,
Twayne`
>If it has a carburator and burns gasoline, there most definitely IS a way to
>adjust the mixture!! Check the carb documentation or the machine's
>paperwork.
Agreed! I've _never_ seen a B&S engine that did not allow for
air/fuel mixture adjustment (since I was knee-high to a grasshopper).
OP: enter essential information here, find the link for the
machine/parts/exploded view and post it.
Have you seen the newer engines? Many no longer have the two screws that
allow you to adjust the carb like days gone by.
From the Tecumseh manual, page 13 http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
A main or idle adjustment needle may be replaced by an
internally fixed jet on some models.
The main nozzle contains a ball check valve. The main
purpose of this ball check is to eliminate air being drawn
down the main nozzle during idle speeds and leaning the
idle mixture.
http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
See page 13. No adjustment on many new carbs
No. Never saw that before. Learned something today...
Maybe the OP will tell us if he has a Tecumseh carb on his B&S engine.
It would be interesting to know exactly what he has.
In any account he should not need to run his engine with the choke on.
>
> No. Never saw that before. Learned something today...
>
> Maybe the OP will tell us if he has a Tecumseh carb on his B&S engine.
> It would be interesting to know exactly what he has.
>
> In any account he should not need to run his engine with the choke on.
Many engines have that feature today to avoid the environmental police.
Yes, he should not have to put the choke on, but it may just be a linkage
adjustment to get the choke truly off. Can't tell from here.
Combined with ethanol in the gas, which causes a lean condition. Try
running premium gas and see if that helps - particulatly shell premium
if you happen to be in Canada.
With Canadian Shell they put ethanol in the regular at up to 10%,
which means up to 5% in mid grade and nothing in premium.
Works for me.
Otherwise you will need to open up one of the fixed jets in the carb a
bit. Not easy, but not impossible.
>On Sat, 05 Feb 2011 00:20:58 -0500, Taylor <tay...@no.spam> wrote:
>
>>
>>My snow blower has a Briggs & Stratton 7.5 hp "Powerbuilt Snow"
>>horizontal engine. It has always need a little choke to run smoothly
>>after it warms up. With no choke it runs, but stumbles slightly. With
>>one click it is a bit smoother, and with two clicks it runs the
>>smoothest. More than that, there is too much choke and the engine will
>>die.
>>
>>Thinking that perhaps something is clogged in the carburetor/jet, I
>>replaced the whole carb with a new one. The result is exactly the same.
>>
>>I have fresh gas, use Sta-Bil, etc. I'm not overly worried about it, I
>>just use two clicks of choke for best power.
>>
>>However, I suspect that I'm not getting the full 7.5 hp with the choke
>>restricting air intake. I'm also curious what the problem is. A
>>repairman said that all engines are tuned lean due to EPA rules. Of
>>course there is no way to adjust the mixture.
>>
>>Any ideas what causes this? Is the repairman right about the mixture
>>set overly lean on purpose?
>>
>>
>>
>
>I'd check the air filter and be sure it is clean or new. Does it run
>better with the filter removed, not needing the choke...
>
Air filter being plugged would cause the OPPOSITE problem. You can be
assured this is NOT the problem.
However, many engines are set up thet they NEED an air filter to be
properly calibrated, and the vast majority of snow blower engines do
NOT have an air filter (because it would very quickly freeze up, and
there is very little free dust in the air when it is snowing/snowy
>Also look at the spark plug. Adjust the plug gap a little (open or
>close it a tad) and see what happens or replace the plug. Make sure
>you have the correct/recommenced plug.
>
>Spark Plug Chart:
>
><http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm>
Again, very unlikely to be the problem. The plug will likely indicate
it is running lean, but with unleaded gas, reading a plug is much less
effective.
Not neccessarily so. There is NO adjustable jet on that carburetor. It
may or may not have a removeable/replaceable jet. The jet CAN be
drilled to a larger size, but there will be no documentation in the
manual to tell you how.
>
>:::
>::: Any ideas what causes this? Is the repairman right about
>::: the mixture set overly lean on purpose?
>
>I think he just wanted you off the phone. Irrelevant to what you're having
>to do to keep it running right.
>
I WOULD go with a tank of fresh ethanol free fuel as a first step, if
ethanol free fuel is a vailable in your area. If not, you could be
stuck living with it or properly drilling out the jet.
The last 5 or more years there is no adjustment provided.
It is an EPA thing.
Might be able to put on an earlier carb or modify the current one with
old parts.
Because it is a snow blower, there is no air filter. The carburetor is
inside a "snow hood" which is designed to help it stay warm and prevent
icing. There is nothing that I can tell is plugging the fuel outlet,
and there is no shut off. I'll try running it with the gas cap off.
There are no adjustments on the carb either.
Thanks everyone!
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Taylor" <tay...@no.spam> wrote in message
news:iiimnu$q5o$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Oren" <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:0l3rk65vibevron8s...@4ax.com...
> Might be able to put on an earlier carb or modify the current one with
> old parts.
Bigger hammer and electric drill.
nb
Bingo! More likely, look for an air leak in the intake tract.
> However, many engines are set up thet they NEED an air filter to be
> properly calibrated, and the vast majority of snow blower engines do
> NOT have an air filter (because it would very quickly freeze up, and
> there is very little free dust in the air when it is snowing/snowy
Howzabout some sorta moisture trap/thingie that could leak air? I
know spit about snow blowers.
> Again, very unlikely to be the problem. The plug will likely indicate
> it is running lean, but with unleaded gas, reading a plug is much less
> effective.
Reading a plug is incredibly effective. Just how lean, right down to
engine destruction, can be determined. OTOH, if activating the choke
is required, we already know it's running too lean. Again, I'd be
looking for some sorta air leak.
nb
Ive never seen a snow blower with an air filter as others state they
have, it would get wet and restrict air thats why they dont have them,
an air filter will make it run richer needing less choke, not more.
How do you know the carb isnt just a poor rebuild, ive seen 6 bad
starters in a row. It isnt getting enough fuel or it has an air leak
at the manifold or maybe somethings cracked or loose letting in air. I
would check the seal if the gasket and check everything. You could
take it apart and run wire through the jets to see if they are
actualy clean and blow it out with compressed air or put in in carb
boil, or enlarge the main jet a bit, but be carefull. Ususaly needing
a choke means you need a carb cleaning from old gas varnishing the
jets, Ive a a bit of dirt logged in a passage do that and compressed
air fixed it.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
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"notbob" <not...@notbob.invalid> wrote in message
news:8r7n03...@mid.individual.net...
>the vast majority of snow blower engines do
>NOT have an air filter (because it would very quickly freeze up,
I've read that here before and can't figure why I keep banging my head
on the wall ;-)
Thanks
Hint: Don't run the lawn mower and the AC at the same time.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
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"Oren" <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:0qstk6dt1smoa0viu...@4ax.com...
> What's likely the problem, is a bad gasket between the carb and the
> engine.
For the slightly-larger B+S engines, checking the torque on the head
bolts is part of the routine maintenance; they do sometimes loosen up.
They're really heavy-duty gaskets and, as far as I can tell, designed to
be re-usable - you can take the head off to inspect everything, clean up,
and put the same gasket back on again. Unless, perhaps, someone's gooped
it up with sealer ;-)
cheers
Jules
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Learn more about Jesus
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"Jules Richardson" <jules.richa...@gmail.com> wrote
in message news:iiov0t$ssd$3...@news.eternal-september.org...
My Ariens have air filters; both of them. One is 20+ years, the other about
3 years. Neighbor's Sunbeam has one. They never plug even when it's pushed
right in underneath the snow that's too deep for it. Once the engine starts
to warm up, nothing is going to freeze anything shut. They're not very
complex filters; just enough to keep junk from going in.
Others however don't have air filters. Whether that's most or a few, I
don't know. Point is, statements should never be "always" or "all" or
"never". On Ariens, the filter is part of the cover over the carb's air
entry shroud.
No, mine have filters. It's part of the can that covers the carb air intake
and has the choke handle sticking out of it. They have never been plugged by
anything. You must have heatless engines.
::
:: Thinking that perhaps something is clogged in the
It's interesting how some of the basics get ignored like the gas tank outlet
covered with dirt or water, hoses plugged or kinked & not getting fuel TO
the bowl in sufficient quantity, or even the float stuck (or sinking?) and
so on. No one has even yet mentioned checking the bowl to see if it's
filling or rate of output, all that easy kind of stuff.
> Last I checked, BS used gaskets that are pretty guaranteed to be single
> use. But, who can tell. Maybe the quality has improved?
No, seen it on old ones - very heavy-duty silver gaskets that don't seem
to have compressed at all when removed. Taking the head off was also a
routine maintenance thing, which makes me think they're supposed to be
good for at least a few cycles.
All of the other gaskets on their engines are pretty thin in my
experience and aren't intended to survive removal, but the head one's a
real monster given the size of the engine.
cheers
Jules
It is a screen fine enough to keep the squirrels from making a nest,
and that is about it. I have an 8hp Briggs snowblower engine sitting
in the garage and it has about 1/4 or 5/15 inch holes.
>In news:22960bea-08a6-4c73...@p12g2000vbo.googlegroups.com,
>ransley <mark.ra...@gmail.com> typed:
>: On Feb 4, 11:20 pm, Taylor <tay...@no.spam> wrote:
>:: My snow blower has a Briggs & Stratton 7.5 hp "Powerbuilt
>:: Snow" horizontal engine. It has always need a little
>:: choke to run smoothly after it warms up. With no choke it
>:: runs, but stumbles slightly. With one click it is a bit
>:: smoother, and with two clicks it runs the smoothest. More
>:: than that, there is too much choke and the engine will die.
>
>No, mine have filters. It's part of the can that covers the carb air intake
>and has the choke handle sticking out of it. They have never been plugged by
>anything. You must have heatless engines.
>
>::
Funny, none of mine have EVER had filters and I've owned snowblowers
for over 30 years, and worked on them for 10 years before that. ALL
have had "heated air intake" shrouds.
Are your filters paper or foam elements?
Got any part numbers?
Possibly engines have been replaced with non-snow-blower engines(like
tiller, edger, lawnmower, etc)
Most, except for the flow from the tank, would be addressed by
replacing the carb - which the OP did.
NOW - if he put a NON SNO BLOWER CARB on, it WILL run lean without an
air filter.
And a SINKING cab float will NOT cause the engine to run lean and
require choking to run when warm. Just stop and think about it for a
second, or even a half second. A sunk float RAISES the fuel level in
the bowl, causing flooding, rich running, dripping from the carb,
etc................
>
>
>
>
>And a SINKING cab float will NOT cause the engine to run lean and
>require choking to run when warm. Just stop and think about it for a
>second, or even a half second. A sunk float RAISES the fuel level in
>the bowl, causing flooding, rich running, dripping from the carb,
>etc................
...and a wet spark plug
- which is part of the etc............
but usually the carb is low enough that the raw gas runs out, rather
than into the carb, so it only gets wet if you try too hard to start
it.
Real good idea, except that particular carb/engine doesn't have one.
The Tecumseh service book points out they now use a different jet instead of
adjusting screw. Nothing to drill. I suspect Briggs and others use the same
system.
Thank the EPA for taking away our adjusting screws. Everything is built
for morons these days.
> Thank the EPA for taking away our adjusting screws. Everything is built
> for morons these days.
It's the larger market share.
Worse than "morons" are the "I'm right" morons, those morons who are
positive they have the problem figured and nothing will dissuade them.
When I was a motorcycle mechanic, use to get those types coming in all
the time.
"It's the carburetor!"
"Well, in the case of a 2-stroke...."
"It's the carburetor!"
"It's been my experience it could also be...."
"It's the carburetor!"
....etc ;)
nb
--
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Learn more about Jesus
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"LSMFT" <LS...@teranews.com> wrote in message
news:2sc4p.94662$7p5....@newsfe21.iad...
Customer: This one needs six pounds of freon, and this one
needs eight pounds.
Me: Well, lets check things out. See what's going on in
there.
Customer: Just add the freon like I said.
Me: The system holds two pounds at best. I couldn't fit six
pounds in, if I tried.
Customer: The last guy added six pounds.
Me: (goes to van, gets catalog) the receiver on this unit
holds 1.3 pounds, the rest of the system wouldn't hold more
than a couple ounces.
Customer: Well, you gonna add the freon or not?
I found the system loaded with air, but he wouldn't let me
pump it out and vacuum out the air. Just wanted me to add
six pounds to this one, and eight pounds to the other one.
The freezer I'd worked on the day before had bad piston, on
two cylinder compressor. But he wouldn't hear of a
compressor replacement. Just wanted more pounds of freon.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
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"notbob" <not...@notbob.invalid> wrote in message
news:8rd64o...@mid.individual.net...
No, unlike the motorcycle, and early emission carbs on cars, there IS
NO SCREW. Get that through your head. NO ADJUSTABLE JET.
The jet can still be drilled. But it is not a simple job.
Well, since it is a 4 stroke, it's not a leaky crankshaft seal, at
least.
>Next, will be non polluting electric snow blowers.
They call them "electric snow shovels"- and larger "electric blowers"
(single stage) have been around since the late sixties.
Looks like B&S has excellent online product support. I'd start here:
Note the "Carburetion Troubleshooting Quick Reference Guide (PDF)." in
2nd paragraph down.
nb
If you go too far, just undrill it
j...@myplace.com wrote:
> On Sat, 05 Feb 2011 00:20:58 -0500, Taylor <tay...@no.spam> wrote:
>>
>>My snow blower has a Briggs & Stratton 7.5 hp \"Powerbuilt
>> Snow\"
>>horizontal engine. It has always need a little choke to run
>> smoothly
>>after it warms up. With no choke it runs, but stumbles slightly.
>> With
>>one click it is a bit smoother, and with two clicks it runs the
>>smoothest. More than that, there is too much choke and the engine
>> will
>>die.
>>
>>Thinking that perhaps something is clogged in the carburetor/jet, I
>>replaced the whole carb with a new one. The result is exactly the
>> same.
>>
>>I have fresh gas, use Sta-Bil, etc. I\'m not overly worried about
>> it, I
>>just use two clicks of choke for best power.
>>
>>However, I suspect that I\'m not getting the full 7.5 hp with the
>> choke
>>restricting air intake. I\'m also curious what the problem is. A
>>repairman said that all engines are tuned lean due to EPA rules.
>> Of
>>course there is no way to adjust the mixture.
>>
>>Any ideas what causes this? Is the repairman right about the
>> mixture
>>set overly lean on purpose?
>>
> I had a farm tractor do the same thing. It would not keep running
> unless it was fully choked. I swapped the carb with another one known
> to be good. Changed fuel filter and checked all fuel lines for a
> blockage. I finally found out the valve where the fuel line connects
> to the gas tank was filled with crud. I had to drain the gas, remove
> the valve and dismantle it. Put it all back together and all is
> fine....
> You are NOT getting enough gas, you need to find out why. Start at
> the gas tank and work all the way into the engine. I could have saved
> a lot of time had I known it was just that valve. Your gas tank may
> have a screen in it at the place the line is connected.
-------------------------------------
If you have any further questions call our engine Answer Center at
800-444-7774, M-F 8-5PM CST.
For Briggs & Stratton Branded Power Products questions call our Answer
Center at 800-743-4115, M-F 8-5PM CST.
--
Briggs Engine
Message origin: TRAVEL.com
This guy has some good videos on small engines...
My Craftsman with a Tecumseh engine was running as the OP stated, it needed the choke on to run smoothly. Mine had to be on the 1st click, where 0 clicks is off, and 3 clicks is full choke. If I turned the choke off, the machine would stall out.
I have one of these non-adjustable carbs, and followed that video. Turn off the gas line, run the machine dry, then unscrew that bolt and clean the holes with a piece of wire. Should help a little, it did for me. The jet was a little dirty for whatever reason (stagnant fuel, dirt in jerry can, etc...)
I may be completely out to lunch, but please, no torching.