The push button has suffered a dent so it needs to be replaced.
I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.
Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.
Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?
I don't know what the new doors may be using, but my older opener just used
a simple doorbell button. About $1.
My older door opener did not have any safety interlocks like the new ones
do. Does it go down OK with the remote?
You probably mounted the button upside down. Reverse it and you'll be
able to shut the door but not open it. You don't want it to open with
a button or someone will steal everything in your garage.
You probably bought an ON/OFF pushbutton, and you probably need a
MOMENTARY pushbutton.
Yes, the remote opens the door with one push and closes the door with
another push. Now, if the push button would do the same thing....
sounds like you bought a lighted doorbell button. Take the bulb out or
get one that is not lighted.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.
I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?
Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? (The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I
I you "bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly." then it
has to be the wrong or a defective pushbutton, right?
Since you gave no other information, I responded to the only information you
did give.
HTH,
Twayne`
In my layman's view, this is how the garagedoor openers (pushbutton or
remote) work: There are 3 possible actions - open, stop, close. They
get used in that order and then start anew. In addition there are stops
at the top and bottom that only issue the stop order. A momentary signal
from the remote or from the doorbell-type button issue the action
commands. If you get a button switch that switches between on and off,
you are energizing the circuit(s) far too long if you only push the
button once. You have to push that button twice to have the same action
as the door bell with a single push and let go.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Go down and ask for a doorbell button - that is what you need. AFAIK
all of them are momentary.
As for two buttons, no problem as long as you wire them both from the
opener itself. It would get complicated if you tried to wire them in
on the same run of wire.
Harry K
Ooops. They could be wired with one run of wire if it were a 3
conductor wire.
Harry K
You need a non-lighted push button. I suspect, from the description
of your problem, that you bought a lighted one.
I used to have an older opener here, with a simple doorbell button.
The opener was replaced with one with a fancy control (lighted button,
seperate button for light only, switch to disable opener when closed). The
old button is still connected (in parallel) and still works.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us
"God has no place within these walls (school), just like facts have no
place in organized religion!" -- Superintendent Chalmers
Doorbell buttond are "momentary"
What happens if you take the button off and just touch the wires
together? If it works then, you have a defective button, or a lighted
one. No other possibility.
Actually, VERY simple on the same run of wire - just skin the wire and
put it under the screws for the first one, and carry on to the last
one. Switches need to be IN PARALLEL to each other.
Not necessary, Harry. 2 wires is all that is required.
You didn't say if the "dent" disabled the old button.
If it still works, use an ohm meter or continuity checker across the
screw connectors to see if you is a "push-on/push-off" or a "momentary"
type of switch. Then, check the replacement one you say is not working
properly. The replacement switch should mimic the action of the old one.
If the old switch does not work, figure out which type you need by
touching the bare wires together that were connected to the old switch.
If a brief touch causes the door to go fully up and another brief
touch causes the door to go fully down, you had a "momentary" switch.
If you need to hold the bare wires together to keep the door either up
or down, and it only moves in the opposite direction when you separate
the wires, you had a "push-on/push off" type switch.
Yep, as soon as you pointed it out it was obvious.
Harry K
A momentary normally open switch is one that is open (off) when it is
not pressed and closed (on) when it is pressed.
Example 1: a door-buzzer switch: the buzzer is buzzing only when you are
pressing the button.
Example 2: The circuit that controls the motor of a door opener is
sensitive to the momentary switch's transitions from off to on.
Probably you should just buy two switches at a place that sells and
fixes garage doors.
For what it's worth, my liftmaster has an "intelligent" button. It
connects with just 2 wires that power it and it sends signals back
down the two wires on top of the power to the controller to raise and
lower the door, to lock the door, and to activate the light. So no
ordinary push button is going to work on mine. Just saying there are
others out there.
Big Ditto on that!
Hmmm,
Joking, right? If not you are an idiot!
Ya, riiightt. You can test that theory by disconnect the wires at the
switch and touching them together. Prepare to be embarrassed.
Harry K
> >
> > For what it's worth, my liftmaster has an "intelligent" button. It
> > connects with just 2 wires that power it and it sends signals back
> > down the two wires on top of the power to the controller to raise and
> > lower the door, to lock the door, and to activate the light. So no
> > ordinary push button is going to work on mine. Just saying there are
> > others out there.- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Ya, riiightt. You can test that theory by disconnect the wires at the
> switch and touching them together. Prepare to be embarrassed.
>
> Harry K
You and Tony have both scoffed at James' post, but I see nothing wrong
with it. Haven't seen such a gadget, but it'd be duck soup to make a
control panel that has multiple buttons for different functions, still
with only two wires connecting the control to the operator head. Each
button sends a coded signal down the power wires, said signal being
demodulated at the far end.
Nope. Not joking. Has a circuit board in it with parts on it. I
suspect the reason was so that it could do several things with just 2
wires. That way people that have just 2 conductors buried in the wall
can have more features. Wire is polarized (red and white) and the
connections on the button are polarized as well.
Yep, they even do that with model trains. Superimpose commands on the
track voltage, and the engine demodulates them to sound the horn, blow
"steam," etc.
I agree. I have a Genie that has the traditional start/stop button
plus a light on/off button (that doesn't move the door) plus a lock
slide switch that prevents the radio receiver from working. All with
just two wires. I assume it uses resistors to differentiate between
the controls rather than a fancy digital system, but who knows - with
cheap pic-type microprocessors available, they could have done it many
different ways.
Steering wheel mounted radio controls on the car work that way. Sends a
coded pulse to change the station, volume, mode, etc.
No, there actually ARE 2 wire coded controllers available that can do
more than one thing. The newer ones are digital multiplex, the older
ones wer analog - different resistance for different functions - just
like the cruise control switch on a lot of '70s era cars.
Vast majority are not coded pulse, but differntial voltage, or more
siomply stated, different resistances across a reference voltage.
The 2 wires to the multi-switch unit switch the resistance on one half
of a voltage devider circuit, so the votage on the "center tap" (one
dide of the 2 wire cable - the one connected to the other resistor,
not the ref or ground) changes depending on which button is pushed.
Yes, very similiar to an automotive steering wheel. Just think of all
those different buttons on there and then imagine that there's most
likely only 3 wires doing all that.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email