Far too small a volume--you'd heat or cool the basement faster than the
rest of the house. Not feasible at all.
In that environment, your best bet is ground source of one kind or
another. They're great--had one (Water Furnace brand, one of the best).
--
I am not sure what you mean by small volume. The basement is 1400
square feet, 8 feet high and the floor is 6 feet below grade. Are you
implying that the basement would cool so much that the heat pump would
not work efficiently?
Richard
Of course...what's the volume of the living space you're trying to
heat/cool in comparison? On top of that, since the area is closed,
there's no where for the now heated/cooled air to replenish from so next
cycle you're starting from essentially the ending point of the last.
Every degree you change the temperature in the living area will have to
make a corresponding change in the temperature of an equal air volume
plus the efficiency factor--the old saying of "you can't beat Mother
Nature, the 2nd Law says you can't even break even" is still true.
It simply can not work...
--
At one time I had a Thermastor heat pump water heater in the basement.
It worked quite well to heat the water. Not only did it dehumidify the
basement efficiently, it also turned it into a walk-in cooler.
Basement temp ended up around 55F.
--
=================================================
Franz Fripplfrappl
s
<rgol...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:204ec32b-f0c6-4151...@y38g2000hsy.googlegroups.com...
It would never work, Think about it, what does a heat pump do? your
basement would end up as cold as outside.
>I am assuming that the replenishment of heat comes from the basement
>walls, they are concrete block with no insulation.
The replenishment heat from the walls won't be able to conduct from
the earth outside the walls fast enough to keep up with the heat pump.
The "heat" flows like this:
Earth (1) ==> Basement Walls (2) ==> Basement Air (3) ==> Heat Pump
(4)
Heat flow from (1) to (3) will be much slower than from (3) to (4).
The only way to compensate for that would be for the volume of (3) to
be much larger than the volume you are heating.
Good idea, esp if it's damp. If it isn't, you might use a soaker hose and
a solenoid valve and humidistat to keep the basement air 50% RH while you
put a window AC through a stairwell wall, with the warm side in the living
space. The main mechanism for upward heatflow in soil is evaporation from
lower soil layers and vapor movement through voids and condensation above.
>>> Far too small a volume--you'd heat or cool the basement faster than the
>>> rest of the house...
That's irrelevant, since the heat would come from the ground.
>>> In that environment, your best bet is ground source of one kind or
>>> another. They're great--had one (Water Furnace brand, one of the best).
That also sounds good, with a large cheap swimming pool in the basement with
a thick layer of ice on top and a little fresh water flow as needed. The
Climatemaster 27 is a nice $5K 3-ton water source heat pump with a COP of 5.
>It simply can not work...
Balderdash :-)
Nick
That space will warm up as you cool the living area (cool down as
you heat the living area). That means it shortly will become very hot
or cold and will not allow the heat pump to function efficiently.
Your idea is a good one however. It is possible to put long pipes
into the ground and to move air through them to supply the heat pump.
Those pipes need to be about six foot below grade and you need a lot.
Local conditions will determine if the idea will work for you. I
have seen several people around me use that system.
>
> >>> Far too small a volume--you'd heat or cool the basement faster than the
> >>> rest of the house...
>
> That's irrelevant, since the heat would come from the ground.
>
> >>> In that environment, your best bet is ground source of one kind or
> >>> another. They're great--had one (Water Furnace brand, one of the best).
>
> Nick
That is true, but even without insulation the surface area of the
basement is not large enough to move enough heat. It also is a
problem because over weeks, the temperature of the surrounding ground
will become saturated (heat or cold) and will no longer be efficient.
The standard method is to bury pipes and pump air or liquid though
them. They should cover a large area depending on local ground
conditions and heat - cooling loads.
You would turn your basement into a walk in freezer.
--
Claude Hopper ? 3 :) 7/8
>> It simply can not work...
>
> Balderdash :-)
As proposed as an air-exchange unit w/ the basement volume, no way...
--
> I am assuming that the replenishment of heat comes from the basement
> walls, they are concrete block with no insulation. If the ground in
> which they are in contact with is 55 degrees? or so, there would seem
> to be a lot of heat transfer if the air in the basement got very
> cold.. I will, however, consider what you have said.
That's nice to assume but don't believe it'll be adequate. No estimate
of the size of house to heat and I'm assuming it's desirable to keep the
basement at something near a habitable condition.
If there is no restriction whatsoever on that, I it could manage to be a
contributor but would imo not be the economical use of the investment.
Of course, besides the size of the heat sink/source issue, the outdoor
unit would noisy if installed in the house.
The ground source, otoh, would be quite economical to operate.
--
it is an interesting question...
before writing it off.... compare... what is the surface area of the
basment walls compared to the surface area of the buried pipes...?
Mark
Looks like you didn't read the part of my posting you snipped.
Nick
More directly to the point is the comparison of the conductivity and
heat capacity of the soil vis a vis the air.
The problem of yet not knowing even the size of the heated space
relative to the basement is also limiting in having a clue as to the
sink/source sizing.
--
the heat from the living area would sink into the basement...
what the OP needs is a ground water heat pump.......
and lots and lots of insulation!
Sorry it still will not work. The efficiency will drop to almost
nothing. You don't have enough exchange area.
> the heat from the living area would sink into the basement...
That's occurring anyway and certainly not by "sinking".
> what the OP needs is a ground water heat pump.......
Which, if you will read my first response is precisely what I recommended...
> and lots and lots of insulation!
Given the level of cost he claims for last winter, it would seem either
the house is very small, the setpoint is extremely low, or the house is
pretty well insulated. Then again, maybe it's global warming and the
winter was mild last year...
--
rgol...@gmail.com wrote:
Personally I think it will work ,as a HVAC Contractor with 35 years
experience and just as many working/installing Heat Pump systems, here\'s
my opinion, First they make a air source heat pump using a 12000 btu air
source heat pump to heat hot water, Rheem is one brand, shows it can be
installed in basement.So if you have a small unit say a 18000 or 24000 BTU
and it clearly works for the Rheem domestic hot water heater why would it
not work for a slightly larger unit. Also if you did install the outdoor
unit in the basement and have the duct work in the basement ,put in couple
a three supply registers to dump warm air into the basement with a small
return in the return duct in the basement, if it still does not work try
rejecting the discharged air (using duct ) to a casement window sending
the air outside.
-------------------------------------
why do people suddenly respond to thread over 3 years old?
Mark
Look at how a heat pump or AC works (heat pump is AC in reverse). One coil
gets hot and the other gets cold. If you want a 20 degree rise in temp
upstairs you will get a 20 degree drop in the basement. That is assuming
100% efficiency. Eventually the basement will have to get as cold as the
outside or colder in order to get a sufficient heat rise in your living
space. At about 35 degrees or so a heat pump does not work very efficiently
and needs extra heat.
Mark wrote:
> On Mar 5, 5:52=A0pm, mencarj_at_yahoo_dot_...@foo.com (mencarj) wrote:
>> responding
>> tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/Heat-pump-in-baseme=
> nt-316736...
>>
> why do people suddenly respond to thread over 3 years old?
> Mark
Because I\'m new to the thread
-------------------------------------
> On Mar 5, 5:52 pm, mencarj at yahoo dot ...@foo.com (mencarj) wrote:
> > responding
> > tohttp://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/Heat-pump-in-basement-316736...
> >
>
>
> why do people suddenly respond to thread over 3 years old?
>
> Mark
It's because he's posting from that fucking "for profit" usenet mirror,
the home moaner's club. About the most fucked up way to get to usenet
other than using google, btw.
And as well that's assuming the same volume of heated space as compared
to the basement (which may be reasonably close for a ranch style w/ a
full unfinished basement, but for anything w/ partially finished
basement or larger heated area in comparison, the ratio would be <1:1 by
that ratio of volumes.
It's a worthless idea; there's not even remotely close to the required
heat source/sink heat capacity available; the water heater idea works
only owing to it being a much lower demand in comparison to space heat.
--
He comes from the hellish place called the home owners shrub.
It will work great if you want the entire basement to be a walk in
freezer/cooler.
You got here the Dilbert way. Study up "usenet", f*ck the
homeclonershub and come join us the "real" way. Using the
homeownersclub has a habit of making smart people look stupid. Not your
fault, just a mistake. Use usenet.
So, with 35 years of HVAC experience, one of your solutions is to put
3 supply registers in the basement along with the heat pump? One of
the stupidist things posted here in a long time. Why not put a
windmill
on the roof of your car to generate electric to power the car. We
could
all drive for free.
At least give him a more concrete suggestion.
1) Download a program called Mozilla Thunderbird. Install it.
2) Sign up for an account at:
http://www.usenet-news.net/index1.php?url=get
(they have a 10 Gigabyte account for 5 bucks, which will last you
about 20 years)
3) set up Mozilla Thunderbird with "us.usenet-news.net" as account name
4) set up a fake email address, so you don't get spammed
5) subscribe to groups you like
6) start posting and reading
Of course, if you have that setup, it would be much better to simply
use a heat pump designed to directly work with the water or whatever
fluid is in the pipes. That would be a geothermal system.
Wut's a fake Email address, II didn't know you could get one. :-)
TDD
There's nothing wrong with a heatpump in the basement. But the
evaporator needs to be outside.
Errrrrrrrr! The condensing unit which technically turns into an
evaporator when the reversing valve is activated is still called
the condenser because it's the outdoor component. If you walked
into a supply house and asked for an evaporator, you'll get the
indoor coil.
TDD
It's an interesting idea to use the basement as a heat source. But
as
you point out, the real question is how
much the basement temperature will drop. Dropping that temperature
is going to take some heat away from the house through colder floors,
more heat loss through basement ducts, etc.
And another big issue I see is summer. Almost all heat pumps also
serves as AC. So, in the summer, you're raising the basement
temperature and again, how much is the key question. That would
obviously depend on the size of the basement. Large, open, full
basement would be the best case. Even then, I think it's highly
questionable.
There's three components. The pump/ compressor and two heat
exchangers.
The pump can be in the basement. One heat exchanger indoors and one
outdors.
Putting a heat exchanger in the basement is stupid.
Not stupid if it's mounted on top of the air handler and connected to
the duct work. :-)
TDD
Well then you'll need a bigger/imcreased power fan to overcome the
resistance of the ducts. Not to mention added expense.
If you were talking ground source, the water/refrigerant heat
exchanger could be indoors.
If it was a wet heating sytem, well there's another water/refrigerant
heat exchanger could be indoors too.