<<<Help!>>> 1995 Eagle Vision TSI 3.5L Transmission Insanity
Tony Kerz
night,
I will:
- start the car
- drop it into reverse
--> the tranny does not catch (as if it was in neutral)
- i drop it into forward (it catches)
- i drop it *back* into reverse (it catches this time)
- so i think my problems are over, but:
- i am driving to work
- the car acts like it is in low gear, not down shifting
- i try gunning it, but it revs up to 5000 RPM and still doesn't down
shift
- so i back off afraid that i will really mess it up
- i pull over
- turn the car off
- start it up again
- it works fine...
- anybody see this behavior with a Vision/Intrepid/Concorde?
- the damn thing has only 54,000 miles on it. it seems a little early
for a transmission overhaul don't you think?
- i have heard some talk of this potentally being attributable to a
faulty control unit?
- i am also experiencing, a seemingly unrelated (but perhaps related)
problem, where the car will stall out after a bit of driving (30
minutes) when RPM's are around idle level (less than 1000 RPM).
- when i try to start it up again it stalls again *until* i completely
turn the engine off (taking my key out of the ignition) and starting
it again.
- i have heard some suggestion that this is possibly attributable to a
faulty crank shaft position sensor (but could it also be caused by a
faulty transmission control unit?).
- by the way, when people talk about the "control unit" is this the
"computer" for the entire car, or is there a dedicated "computer" to
control the tranny?
- i am seriously considering bailing out on this car, i'm
afraid... very afraid... it's too bad, because i kind of like the
car aside from the daily fear that it will cost me $1,500.00 at the
drop of a hat.
Dan Seaman
There is definitely a separate control module for the transmission,
which could be your problem. Have you checked for diagnostic codes??
The owner can tell if major fault codes are being recorded by the engine
or transmission controller. With the car in Park, toggle the key on/off
three times (do NOT bump all the way to Start), then turn key to ON.
Watch the Check Engine light. It will flash sequences which relate to
two-digit numbers. The sequences are separated by pauses. The last
code is always five-five, which means something like "end of test."
Write down the number of flashes you see, in pairs. If you see anything
before the 55, then your engine and transmission control are storing
information the dealer on engine and/or transmission problems. These
can be very minor, or very major. It just depends.
I have 107,000 miles on my 93 Intrepid ES, and have had no major engine
or transmission trouble. And I drive it hard. I have time tickets from
the drag strip to prove it.
I wouldn't give up on the car until I found out what was really wrong.
The dealer can read our the diagnostic codes in more detail for a few
bucks, and probably give you a rough estimate on the spot.
Good luck,
Dan
Jitterbug
Dan Seaman wrote in message <35FDC2...@advicom.net>...
You get engine (PCM) codes that way, not transmission (TCM). Also trans
codes run higher than 55. But the trans controller can kick on the check
engine light. It also sounds like the TCM is going in to "limp in mode".
(reverse and second gear only)
I know this may sound silly, but have you checked the fluid? A lot of the
cooler lines leak, and could cause things you are saying. But more likely
you have front pump misery.
The stalling is a separate issue, and very well could be a crank sensor.
Tony Kerz
Jitterbug wrote:
- i checked the tranny fluid and it seemed fine.
- would the TCM codes indicate if it was a front pump problem?
- if it was a faulty front pump, why would it work fine when i shut the car on
and off?
- one would think that if the front pump were shot, that turning the car on and
off would have no effect...
- how can one diagnose a faulty TCM? you certainly can't count on the TCM
telling you it is frigged...
Tony Kerz
Tony Kerz wrote:
- it also just occurred to me that i *did* have leaky transmission lines. the ones
that come from the transmission to the radiator and back. about 6 months ago, i had
the dealer replace these lines. could a faulty repair job on these lines have
caused or contributed to this problem?
Jitterbug
minutes to get the fluid to where it needs to be.
I guess the thing with the lines could have started something. Did you
notice the fluid on the ground, or was it slipping that made you take it in?
The rubber hoses go bad quite often on these. I don't see how they could
screw up changing hoses. They might leak if the clamps are not screwed down
enough.
Some of the TCM's need to be flashed with software updates. Have it checked
out with a DRB and find out for sure. Few times it is a TCM or wiring. Most
times it is some internal part. At that point to me it does not make to much
of a difference what it is, it is not like you are going to replace just the
bad part. You are going to replace a bunch of other parts while you have it
apart.
Tony Kerz wrote in message <35FE8816...@aetna.com>...
Tony Kerz
(1) i turned the car on
(2) dropped it in reverse
(3) hit the gas
(4) acts like it is in neutral
(5) this time i immediately turned the car off and on again
(6) dropped it in reverse
(7) worked like a charm
time between steps (1) and (7) was less then 40 seconds
what the hell?
Eric May
> On several occasions, in the morning, after the car has been sitting all
> night,
> I will:
>
> - start the car
> - drop it into reverse
> --> the tranny does not catch (as if it was in neutral)
> - i drop it into forward (it catches)
> - i drop it *back* into reverse (it catches this time)
>
> - so i think my problems are over, but:
>
> - i am driving to work
> - the car acts like it is in low gear, not down shifting
> - i try gunning it, but it revs up to 5000 RPM and still doesn't down
> shift
> - so i back off afraid that i will really mess it up
>
> - i pull over
> - turn the car off
> - start it up again
> - it works fine...
>
> - anybody see this behavior with a Vision/Intrepid/Concorde?
> - the damn thing has only 54,000 miles on it. it seems a little early
> for a transmission overhaul don't you think?
Tony,
The symptoms you are experiencing are exactly the same as those I
experienced with my '94 ESi (3.3L) at about 46K miles. The dealer worked on
the car three times over the course of about eight months to fix the
problem.
On the first trip, the ATF and filter were replaced and the transmission
controller program was updated. This changed the way the transmission
shifts slightly, but didn't fix the problem. For the next attempt, they
installed a new valve body and, of course, changed the filter and replaced
the ATF. No improvement. Finally, they replaced the torque converter and
installed a "seal kit". This fixed the problem.
All of this was covered under warranty, so I don't know what it would have
cost me to have it repaired outside of warranty.
I now have 89K on the car and the tranny is still working well.
Leo Hickey
into limp-in mode... When they go into limp-in they set a code and a dodge
dealer can retrieve the code and find out what's going on. It will probably
be a code for loss of transmission prime. Your torque converter is emptying
of fluid and it takes a few seconds to fill, and while it's filling the
clutch packs don't get enough pressure to operate correctly.