Volvo 850 odometer gear -- how hard is it to fix?
bc
My odometer stopped working this week, and I'd like to
fix it. The trip odometer also stopped, but the speedo
still works, and from what I've turned up on google, this
sounds like an odometer gear. Has anyone done this, and
have a feel for how hard it is? I'd rather not pay the
dealer hundreds of bucks if it is something I can fix
myself. My car is a 95 850 GLT, if that makes any
difference. Thanks.
jg
"bc" <ro...@example.net> wrote in message
news:Xns9646D5...@207.69.189.191...
http://www.odometergears.com/
Have a look... The gear splits across its face and not hard (in the 200's at
least) to get off or put on. However I broke 2 trying to lever it back
because I pushed it on a bit too far. Maybe the resin is a bit weak or maybe
I was to hasty, but anyway I gave up & bought another speedo from the
wrecker. It's the wrong ratio (they vary for auto or manual g/box) but not
far out, and the gear is broken too but still works.
Doug Warner
1. Remove the entire dash top. It takes about 20 minutes longer, but
saves a huge amount of struggle and potential damage compared to the
alternative of prying up the left end of the dash and forcing the
panel out through a tiny gap:
http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/Topless.jpg
Remove the two green connectors and the hose (The hose L-connector
pulls off with a bit of twisting)
NOTE: This requires disconnecting the airbag, Disconnect battery and
follow proper procedures for handling this explosive device)
2. Remove these screws and the nut around the boost gauge fitting.
http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/PanelBack.jpg
3. Remove the front housing. You can then gently pry off the dial
faceplate using a flat stick of wood It's a tight friction fit, with
plastic guides and the contact pins. There are no "hooks"
http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/PanelSplit.jpg
The odoometer just lifts out. Remove the reset pluger to avoid
breaking it.
4. Two screws removes the motor from the right side, revealing the
broken gear:
http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/ODOgear.jpg
5. Install the gear you got from odometergears.com before starting
this process. The one in back was cast in a flexible mold, and was
unusable, I waited until he got his molding machine fixed, and sent
me the one of the left. Still not perfect, but it works. If I had
to do it again, I'd add a thin washer behind it to replace the raised
boss on the original (amber) gear.
http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/gears3.jpg
http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/InstalledGear.jpg
Put it all back together. The airbag bolts above the glovebox have a
specific torque requirement.
To reply, please remove one letter from each side of "@"
Spammers are VERMIN. Please kill them all.
bc
ordered the part, so I'm hoping it goes pretty
smoothly. Can you tell me the torque setting on
those bolts you mentioned? Thanks again!
Doug Warner
If you think you might have to drive the car with the dash off, get a
2.5 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor and stick it's leads in the airbag cable
pin holes. This will make the controller think the detonator is still
connected so it won't generate an airbag fault. Tape it up to keep it
from shorting to the chassis.
I drove mine this way for two weeks while waiting for the new gear.
Also, keep track of what screws go where.
Doug Warner
I sent the first reply to this via email accidentally. Here's the
public copy:
Hmm, I thought I posted the answer 2 days ago, but now it's not here.
The torque is 5.2 ft-lbs.
The removal pages form the SRS service manual are here:
http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/DashTop.jpg
bc
news:986a71tihrs6rf1qf...@4ax.com:
<snip>
> I sent the first reply to this via email accidentally. Here's the
> public copy:
> Hmm, I thought I posted the answer 2 days ago, but now it's not here.
>
> The torque is 5.2 ft-lbs.
> The removal pages form the SRS service manual are here:
> http://webpages.charter.net/dwarner2/DashTop.jpg
>
Thanks! I appreciate all the help.