P0135: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
austinLS430
the most part, the car has run beautifully; credit to the gentleman
that owned it before me.
I took the car in for a state inspection the other day and it failed
it -- the fault code was P0135: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction
(Bank 1 Sensor 1). I do remember my mechanic (Bearden Automotive)
mentioned a few months ago that one of my sensors was out and I should
get it replaced if I wanted the car to pass inspection -- at the time,
I (foolishly) ignored that.
I'd like to get this fixed but I'm trying to save as much money as I
can on it. I think I remember being quoted about $350-365 to fix the
problem by my mechanic. Is that within the ballpark of what others
have paid? How hard would it be to replace the sensor myself?
Ray O
"austinLS430" <sameer.vi...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:2fe70e6e-b67d-48ea...@s16g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
The price sounds about right. It should not be too difficult to replace the
senor yourself, especially since Austin (I assume Texas) is not in the rust
belt. Unplug the senor, unscrew the sensor, and reverse the process. If
you decide to go with an aftermarket sensor, be sure to get one that has the
correct connector already installed instead of getting one that requires
splicing wires.
If the old sensor doesn't come out easily, do not force it because you may
end up purchasing an exhaust manifold as well. Spray some penetrating fluid
like PB blaster, let it sit for a few hours, spray it some more, let it sit
some more, and then try removing the old sensor.
After you install the new sensor, you will have to drive the car for a
couple of days to get the computer's readiness monitor to be set for the
emissions test.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
john...@hotmail.com
fixed if you're mechanically inclined.
Both upstream and downstream sensors (#15733) are as low as
$56.79+shipping on www.rockauto.com. This is a Bosch planar type
"universal" sensor which you have to cut and splice on the old
connector. Follow the instructions and you should be fine. The type
with the connector on there costs $20 more each, but looks like you'll
get a reboxed thimble from Denso (Bosch is both a supplier and a one-
source parts redistributor).
http://www.boschautoparts.com/Products/OxygenSensors/PlanarO2
Personally I'd much prefer the the Bosch universal even though you
have to splice, because it's a new generation of planar sensors. The
design means they are more resistant to contamination and "light up"
faster than traditional thimble types.
You can borrow the sensor socket from Autozone using their free loaner
tool program. Or pick up one for $3.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97177
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95045
austinLS430
mechanic actually asked me to stay away from Bosch so I ended up
buying a DENSO (Part # 2344167). Cost me $110 with shipping. Maybe I
should've just gotten the Bosch. Anyways, the part should be here on
Fri so I'll give it a go and try and replace it myself. I've gotta
locate the darn thing first! I think I may have to get under to car to
get to it. Also I'm wondering why it is an hour of labor at the
mechanic's -- seems like a straight-forward thing to do. Should it
really take a seasoned mechanic an hour?
On Dec 15, 8:37 pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote:
> This is a 4.3L 3UZFE engine. Should cost as little as ~$60 to get it
> fixed if you're mechanically inclined.
>
> Both upstream and downstream sensors (#15733) are as low as
> $56.79+shipping onwww.rockauto.com. This is a Bosch planar type
> "universal" sensor which you have to cut and splice on the old
> connector. Follow the instructions and you should be fine. The type
> with the connector on there costs $20 more each, but looks like you'll
> get a reboxed thimble from Denso (Bosch is both a supplier and a one-
> source parts redistributor).
>
> http://www.boschautoparts.com/Products/OxygenSensors/PlanarO2
>
> Personally I'd much prefer the the Bosch universal even though you
> have to splice, because it's a new generation of planar sensors. The
> design means they are more resistant to contamination and "light up"
> faster than traditional thimble types.
>
> You can borrow the sensor socket from Autozone using their free loaner
> tool program. Or pick up one for $3.99
>
Ray O
Guys, thanks for the input. I ordered a sensor on rockauto.com; my
mechanic actually asked me to stay away from Bosch so I ended up
buying a DENSO (Part # 2344167). Cost me $110 with shipping. Maybe I
should've just gotten the Bosch. Anyways, the part should be here on
Fri so I'll give it a go and try and replace it myself. I've gotta
locate the darn thing first! I think I may have to get under to car to
get to it. Also I'm wondering why it is an hour of labor at the
mechanic's -- seems like a straight-forward thing to do. Should it
really take a seasoned mechanic an hour?
*******************
Bank 1 is the cylinder bank that contains cylinder # 1. I believe that it
is on the passenger side (left side from the perspective of standing in
front of the vehicle). I've never looked for the sensor, but it will either
be in the exhaust manifold or in the exhaust pipe close to the manifold. If
you have to reach it from under the car, you will probably have to remove
the shield under the engine.
The flat rate time includes time to remove stuck O2 sensors that have rusted
in place.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
austinLS430
replace it. All in all, it costed me $110 (parts) + $60 (labor). And
yeah...it did pass inspection yesterday.
On Dec 17, 11:16 pm, "Ray O" <rokig...@NOSPAMtristarassociates.com>
wrote:
> "austinLS430" <sameer.vishwanat...@gmail.com> wrote in message
Ray O
Update on the O2 sensor -- I bought one on RockAuto and had a friend
replace it. All in all, it costed me $110 (parts) + $60 (labor). And
yeah...it did pass inspection yesterday.
**********
Thanks for the update!
john...@hotmail.com
minutes to change out most oxygen sensors. But there are cases as
mentioned such as sensors rusted to the exhaust, etc. Mechanics work
off "book rates", where there is a standard time for *inexperienced*
mechanic to properly replace a part. Seasoned ones of course take much
less. Toyota's warranty payout rate is so little I think they assume
only good senior techs.
As mentioned, the OEM-connector from Bosch looks like a reboxed Denso,
because Bosch (like AC Delco, Fel-Pro, Moog, Timken and others) are
single-source distributors too. But if the cheaper Denso thimble works
for the mechanic then it's fine.