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Antilock Brake light and Service engine soon lights came on tonight???

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Steve

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Jan 31, 2002, 6:12:08 PM1/31/02
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The Anti lock light comes on whenever its wet out. I tested the brakes
in the frozen slush we're receiving right now here in New England. I
stopped ok but no Anti lock brake function. 96 Chevy Lumina sedan,
60,000 miles, I bought at 20,000 miles. I've never done any work to it
other than changing the oil every 4-6 K miles.

I dont care about the anti lock feature. Can I just ignore it?


The other problem is that the Service Engine Soon light also came on
tonight. Is this safe to continue driving? Again, Its wet out. I dont
know if the bad weather could cause the light to come on???
What does this light indicate? (I dont have the cars manual!!

Thanks for any info!!!


Steve

Nick

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Jan 31, 2002, 8:08:53 PM1/31/02
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Steve,

The anti-lock system will not function when the light is on, so you lose the
advantage of improved manuverability and improved steering control when in a
panic stop. On many systems, it is okay to ignore it, knowing that the
foundation brakes will continue to work normally. That is not the case with
the Delco ABS-VI system. The motor pack will occasionally fail in such a
way that the rear hydraulic circuit is isolated from the rest of the system.
The result is no rear braking, and accelerated front lining wear.

The "SES" light or "MIL," is telling you that your engine is not running
properly. The emissions have increased or can be higher due to a fault that
was detected by the PCM. The real common causes are PO300 and PO440 codes.
The PO300 is a misfire code, and with the 3100 the fault is often fuel
injector deposits. The PO440 code relates to the evaporative emission
controls, and is often activated when the diagnostic check fails because of
a loose gas cap. There are dozens of others, so you really need to take the
car to a shop with computer diagnostic equipment, and preferably a Tech-2
scanner.

If you don't think it is important to help air quality, the reduced fuel
economy that is often associated with engine control problems should be a
stronger motivator to get it repaired. If you can specify some detailed
conditions of the engine running condition, it would be helpful.

Good Luck,

Nick


"Steve" <sr...@spammediaone.net> wrote in message
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NeoSadist

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Jan 31, 2002, 10:36:01 PM1/31/02
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warrantied? take it to the dealer. not warrantied? check dealer for
recalls. else, sucks to be you......

"Steve" <sr...@spammediaone.net> wrote in message
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Steve

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Feb 1, 2002, 6:07:08 AM2/1/02
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Thanks for the clear, helpful reply.
I did notice that the car started harder than usual when leaving work
last night. Other than that the car seemed to run fine as usual. I'll
see if the light comes on again today. I'm just looking for time so I
can bring it in to my mechanic at my convenience.

The ABS light seems to come on whenever it rains then goes off when
its dry.

Thanks again

Steve

John

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Feb 1, 2002, 6:19:33 PM2/1/02
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I'm having the same problem with my '99 Regal 3.8...traction,antilock, and
service soon(I think) come on simultaneously and intermittently.These lights
stay on till the ignition is cycled off/on. This seems to happen most
usually in damp weather, and at hiway speeds......just today I realized that
it occurs when I lift my foot from the gas..... My car also is running great
with no other drivability problems. Any suggestions on cause and fix would
be appreciated-kinda miss the ABS in this(winter) weather.

"Steve" <sr...@spammediaone.net> wrote in message
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Robert Hancock

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Feb 1, 2002, 8:24:55 PM2/1/02
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That sort of problem could be any number of things, you'd need to have the
trouble codes read out with a scan tool to figure out what's going on.

--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
To email, remove "nospam" from hanc...@nospamshaw.ca
Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/


"John" <tan...@seacoast.com> wrote in message
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John

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Feb 2, 2002, 11:53:31 AM2/2/02
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Thanks Robert for the reply. I will have to have it looked at. The brain
teaser of it though is what on earth do "Service Engine Soon" conditions
have with "ABS" and "Traction"(control)??? If the warning lights came on
individually I'd say I have a couple of trouble conditions. It seems to me
that the Simultaneous lighting of these warning lamps are a False or
misleading indicator. Also,why would they stay off (once cleared by cycling
the ignition)for indeterminate (sometimes its days,sometimes its minutes)
amounts of time if they where valid? Also, what's the significance of the
fact they come when I quickly get of the throttle? If I wanted to
recreate "Vanishing Point" they'd never light!
"...............................<hanc...@nospamshaw.ca> wrote in message
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Bob Gross

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Feb 2, 2002, 2:58:14 PM2/2/02
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The old traditional way to light an indicator light was to permanently
ground one side of the lamp, and then on the other side of the lamp you
would switch a voltage (+12 or whatever) on or off.

However, on some newer cars, the indicator lamp is tied high on one side
(and that +5 or +12 or whatever can fail), and then the low side is a
switched low controlled by logic inside the PCM. Often they put these logic
drivers in a quad package. So, if multiple outputs are failing together, it
might be the package inside the PCM. I've seen this before, but I don't know
about your vehicle.

---Bob Gross---


"John" <tan...@seacoast.com> wrote in message

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Robert Hancock

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Feb 2, 2002, 11:52:14 PM2/2/02
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On the newer vehicles all the electronic modules are linked together over a
serial data bus. Sometimes if a fault occurs in the area controlled by one
module, other lights can come on because some of their functions have been
disabled as a result (for example, on some vehicles, the Trac Off light will
come on whenever the PCM sets an engine trouble code, because the traction
control disables whenever a PCM code is set - some kind of failsafe, I
think).

--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
To email, remove "nospam" from hanc...@nospamshaw.ca
Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/


"John" <tan...@seacoast.com> wrote in message

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W. John Guineau

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Feb 3, 2002, 2:36:41 PM2/3/02
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Side topic:

> However, on some newer cars, the indicator lamp is tied high on one side
> (and that +5 or +12 or whatever can fail), and then the low side is a
> switched low controlled by logic inside the PCM. Often they put these
logic
> drivers in a quad package. So, if multiple outputs are failing together,
it
> might be the package inside the PCM. I've seen this before, but I don't
know
> about your vehicle.

I've wondered why they made this change. Is there some advantage in pulling
ground to complete the circuit vs the "traditional" way of pulling V+?

john


Bob Gross

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Feb 3, 2002, 5:07:54 PM2/3/02
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There must have been some advantage or else they would not have done it.

There are also systems used in telecom that give you an "electronic ground"
instead of switching the V+. One is called the E2A interface.

If you dig into it, you will see certain advantages to switching voltages
around ground as apposed to switching +5 or +12 or something. There are
different kinds of noise running around on each, so you look for some system
that is more immune to noise that is going to foul up the works. Since most
American made autos are negative ground, and since it is pretty easy to find
negative ground and connect negative ground, then I guess that is why they
tried to get some logic in the PCM that will control ground or not ground.

I have spent some hours going over the GM wiring diagrams for my 2002 Park
Ave, and I am amazed by why they did this section with +12, and then they
did something else with +5, and then something else with ground, and then
something else with weird voltages in between. I'm sure if you spend a few
years studying it, it'll make sense.

---Bob Gross---

"W. John Guineau" <gui...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
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Robert Hancock

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Feb 4, 2002, 9:21:05 PM2/4/02
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On lots of the newer cars there is no individual driver in the PCM for most
of the lights, they are just driven off the instrument cluster through
signals sent over the Class 2 data bus. The Service Engine Soon/Check Engine
light is the only one that is directly driven by the PCM (so that there can
be some indication in case something goes wrong with the Class 2 bus).

--
Robert Hancock Saskatoon, SK, Canada
To email, remove "nospam" from hanc...@nospamshaw.ca
Home Page: http://www.roberthancock.com/


"Bob Gross" <rwg...@compuserve.com> wrote in message
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J Oat

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Feb 5, 2002, 3:03:07 PM2/5/02
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The change is due to electrical engineer who do computer design that has
never worked in real life electrical environment.

In digital world, on circuit board, it is common to switch the ground due to
nature of the design of IC. this get carried out to the real world
interface. There are more chips that switch the ground than one switch the
+V.

What a lot of these designer does not realized is unless you are designing
for the old British positive ground, it is far more reliable to switch the
positive. This way if there is a short, the device will not get switched
on.

This sort of thing is very obvious the minute someone get killed in an
industrial plant.

Phil

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Feb 9, 2002, 9:28:34 PM2/9/02
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As far as your Anti lock brake light this could be caused by water
getting into the connections of your ABS system. On the ABS system
there are wire connecting the sensors to the computer. If you look
around the when the wheel well when the tire is off you'll see a wire
coming from around axle. You don't have to go under the car for this.
Look around and you will see it. Sometimes either water or dirt gets
into the connection. The computer doesn't get the 5 volts it's
supposed to get (computer signal) and it lights the light telling you
there is a fault. Check the plugs. Between the female and male sides
of the plug there is supposed to be a coloured plastic louvered thing
inside (weather pack). If this is torn or the is moisture in here
this might be your problem.

As far as your Service Engine Soon (SES) light. It usually comes on
when there is a fault. This can be checked two ways. You eother go
to a garage and they will put it on a scanner or you can check the
fault yourself with an ALDL (assembly line data link) key. To this
you have to get a ALDL key from an auto part store. Remember to only
use the key when the ignition is in the run position. (NEVER START
THE CAR WITH THE KEY IN PLACE) BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN. Only try this
if you thing you are experienced enough. With your ALDL key in place
(usually there is an ALDL port under the dash) It will be covered
with a plastic cover. Usually labeled Diaognoistic port. Once you
have removed the cover there will be a plug under it. On the top row
there will be only two connections on top (A &B) . Placing your ALDL
key in the plug will axcess the computer codes. With this ingnition
switch in run look at the SES light. It should flash once and then
flash twice. This is 12 and the start of the sequence. Anything
after that is a fault code. It might flash 12 twice to make sure you
know that it is starting the fault code sequience. As with the first
flashing number the fault code is made up of seperate flashes. As an
example, after the 12 you get two flashes and then four more. That
would be a fault code 24 and that would be a vehicle speed sensor
(VSS) error. If you do not have a manual you can get a Haynes book
for your car and there will be section where they will tell you what
the codes mean. I know this seems like a real pain, but this is how
things are done. If you don't know if you should try the ALDL key,
please take it to a garage and let them do it. I thought you might
like to know how it was done just in case. Good Luck , Phil On Thu,

Phil

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Feb 9, 2002, 9:31:05 PM2/9/02
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On Thu, 31 Jan 2002 23:12:08 GMT, Steve <sr...@spammediaone.net> wrote:
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