I'm sure that cost figures into it the most, but supposedly Ford was having a
lot of people compare their oil pressure readings and then owners complaining
that theirs was "low" verses some other guy with the same vehicle.
Let me add that it never goes above 0, not just when it starts
"Sharon K. Cooke" wrote:
>
> It's very close to the oil filter, and it's most likely just a "snap
> switch", and the pressure gauge inside the cab is just an idiot light
> disguised to look like a real gauge. The "gauge" reads zero on startup,
> since it takes a few seconds for the oil pressure to build up and close
> the snap switch. Once that happens, the "gauge" will swing to about the
> middle of scale and stay there, whether you have 10 psi or 80 psi. Shame
> on Ford for fooling people like that!
It is a guage, maybe only a two position gauge, but it is still a gauge.
Without numbers and proper calibraition why is a needle that moves
around any better than a one position guage. They both tell you the same
thing - you have some oil pressure. How many owners even know how to
interpert a real gauge? What is the minimum acceptable oil pressure for
a 5.4L Ford V-8? What is the maximum? How many people worry about the
normal fluctiations in the position of a continuous reading gauge? The
Ford style of oil pressure gauge has one significant advantage over an
oil pressure warning light. It is a positive indication verus the
warning lights negative indication. When the light is not on, you don't
really know whether it is off becasue the engine has sufficient oil
pressure or becasue the light has failed.
If you are one of the relatively few individuals who can actually
interpert an oil pressure gauge, why not install a real gauge?
Persoanlly, I'd like to have an oil temperature gauge.
Ed
The problem with the "paper clip" jumper is that if you have 0 volts going to
the sender, how would you know it with only a paper clip? How are you going to
know if it is a broken wire from the gauge to sender? How are you going to know
if the gauge is receiving power? If I'm going to spend 10-15 dollars, I will
spend it on something I can use and reuse. Spending any amount of money no
matter how small or large on a part for "diagnoses" purposes is foolish. You
would raise holy-hell if that is how your vehicle was diagnosed in a repair
shop, now wouldn't you? I can see it now........ we replaced the sender it did
not fix the problem, we will now replace the gauge and let you know how it turns
out.If that does not fix it we will replace the instrument cluster, that has to
be it!
"Sharon K. Cooke" <sco...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:3FDCC186...@cox.net...
Use your senses, noise or no noise? A no oil scenario there will be lots of
noise.
> You still want to keep your VOM
> holstered, and instead reach for the mechanical gauge and hook that to
> the pressure port.
Do not need a guage to know if there is no oil pressure. The sounds of the
engine tell you that.
> If you get normal pressure readings with the
> mechanical gauge, THEN you can "draw your VOM". Actually, it may then be
> time to reach for the wrench set.
> BTW, I really have no problem with the idea of an "idiot light", or a
> gauge that is actually a gauge (I have both, on all 3 of my vehicles),
> with or without numbers; just with an idiot light disguised as a gauge,
> telling the driver that there's 40 psi or mid-range at highway speed
> when it may really be 10 psi and the engine's main bearings are about to
> kiss the crank or
Not enoung oil pressure under load? Lots of noise, loud noise. You do not need a
guage for that.
>, in the case of a malfunctioning oil pressure relief
> valve, over 100 psi, and the rear main seal is about to depart the
> engine.
>
Take a look at a crank seal, that will not happen.