Ford Escort ZX2 FAQ (part 1)
xma...@hotmail.com
Maintained by Flint Hahn <fli...@ix.netcom.com>
What's New ---------------------------------------
Version 1.0 (March 20, 1999)
Everything.
Need Help! ---------------------------------------
Since I am not a mechanic (heck, this is my first car!), my knowledge of
cars is minimal. I do know how to copy-and-paste, hence this FAQ. If you
notice any errors and chunks of missing information, please send me an
e-mail <fli...@ix.netcom.com> with the correct information so I can fix
it.
Currently, I am looking for information regarding:
Mufflers, tips, and exhaust tubing
Aftermarket parts and modifications
Differences and changes between the model years
Audio modifications and specifications
Tires and rims
Any racing information:
Why the ZX2
How to race
Where to race
Safety
Thanks! ------------------------------------------
I would like to thank the ZX2 mailing list for a huge chunk of this
info, this FAQ would not exist without it. I would like to especially
thank Keman <ke...@prodigy.net> for most of the modifications, Dan Gaal
<dg...@sjcs.org> for a ton of other mods, Robert Kennedy
<rkn...@seattleu.edu>, and xENo <xe...@empathy.org> for letting me use
<www.zx2.com> as the FAQs home. There are a bunch of people I know I've
forgotten to include, but your ideas are in here as well.
(For best viewing, use a monospaced font: monaco, courier, etc.)
0.0 Disclaimer
1.0 Specifications
1.1 Engine & Fuel Economy
1.2 Specifications
1.3 Warranties
1.4 Model/Year Options
1.4.1 1997
1.4.2 1998
1.4.3 1999
1.5 VIN
1.6 VCL
2.0 Modifications
2.1 Precautions/Disclaimers
2.2 Warranties
2.3 Difficulty Ratings
2.4 Air Resonators
2.5 Ram Air
2.6 Air Filter Replacement
2.7 Oil Filter Replacement
2.8 Clutch Pedal Adjustment
2.9 Brake Pedal Adjustment
2.10 3rd Brake Light Shielding
2.11 Foglight Rewiring
2.12 Adding Remote Trunk Release
2.13 Disabling Speed Governor
2.14 Detailing Rear Bumper Lettering
2.15 Superchip
2.16 Tires/Rims
2.17 Mufflers
2.18 Springs
2.19 Audio
2.20 Window Tinting
2.21 Nitrous
2.22 Valve Cover Engine Plate
2.23 Instrument Panel Faceplate Replacement
2.24 Sparkplug Wires Replacement
2.25 Shift knob Replacement
2.26 Air Temperature Sensor
2.27 Strut Bars
3.0 Maintenance
3.1 Breaking the Car In
3.2 Oil Changes
3.3 Gas
3.4 Interior Cleaning
3.5 Washing
3.6 Waxing
3.7 Scratches
3.8 Covers/Car Bras
3.9 Wiper Blades
3.10 Tires
4.0 Racing
4.1 SCCA
5.0 Problems
5.1 Recalls
5.2 Noted Service Problems
6.0 Other Resources
6.1 Online Resources
6.1.1 World Wide Web
6.1.2 Mailing List
6.1.3 Usenet Newsgroups
6.2 Publications
6.2.1 Service Manuals
6.2.2 Magazines
6.3 Phone Numbers
6.4 Manufacturers Resources
7.0 Copyright Notice and Distribution Permission
--------------------------------------------------
0.0 DISCLAIMER
--------------------------------------------------
All the information contained in this document is provided for the
convenience of current and prospective ZX2 owners. All information is
accurate as well as can be reasonably verified. There are no guarantees
or warranties stated or implied through the distribution of this
information. Use the information in this document at your own risk, and
no liability, responsibility for errors or omissions, or for damages
resulting from the use of the information contained herein, shall be
given to the author(s), or provider(s). Any damage or loss is the sole
responsibility of the owner of the vehicle.
--------------------------------------------------
1.0 SPECIFICATIONS
--------------------------------------------------
1.1 Engine & Fuel Economy ----------------------
Engine 2.0L 130-hp Zetech I4
Valve System 16 valve w/VCT
Transmission 5-Speed Manual Overdrive (stnd.)
4-Speed Auto. Overdrive (opt.)
Fuel Economy (cty/hwy)
5-Speed Manual Overdrive 25/33
4-Speed Automatic Overdrive 25/33
Horsepower 130@5750 RPM
Torque (lb-ft) 127@4250 RPM
Displacement (cc) 1983
Turbo/Supercharger No
Bore X Stroke (in.) 3.34 X 3.46
Compression Ratio 9.6:1
Fuel Type Gas
Fuel System SEFI
1.2 Specifications ----------------------------
Exterior Dimensions
Curb Weight Automatic (lbs.) 2512
Curb Weight Manual (lbs.) 2478
Wheelbase (in.) 98.4
Track FR (in.) 56.5
Track RR (in.) 56.5
Length (in.) 175.2
Width (in.) 67.4
Height (in.) 52.3
Interior Dimensions
EPA Class SubComp
Standard Seating 4
Head room, Front (in.) 38
Head room, Rear (in.) 35.1
Leg room, Front (in.) 42.5
Leg room, Rear (in.) 33.4
Hip room, Front (in.) 51.1
Hip room, Rear (in.) 45.1
Shoulder room, Front (in.) 50.8
Shoulder room, Rear (in.) 48.7
Payload & Towing
EPA Passenger Volume (cu. ft.) 81
Standard Towing (lb.) 1000
Maximum Towing (lb.) 1000
EPA Cargo Volume (cu. ft.) 12
Steering & Suspension
Turning Diameter 31.5
Steering Type R&P
Suspension, Front Independent
Suspension, Rear Independent
Tires, Standard 185/65R14
Tires, Sport 185/65R15
1.3 Warranties --------------------------------
Warranty Information
Basic (mo.) 36
Basic (mi.) 36,000
Powertrain (mo.) 36
Powertrain (mi.) 36,000
Rust (mo.) 60
Rust (mi.) Unlimited
1.4 Model/Year Options -----------------------
1.4.1 1997 -----------------------------------
-------------------------- 1997 ZX2 Cool ---------------------------
Exterior Interior
--------------------------------
Medium Slate Medium
Graphite Blue Prairie
Cloth Cloth Tan Cloth
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Ash Gold Clearcoat Metallic X
Light Pine Green Clearcoat X X
Metallic
Bright Red Clearcoat X X
Toreador Red Clearcoat Metallic X X
Light Denim Blue Clearcoat X X
Metallic
Denim Blue Clearcoat Metallic X X X
Pacific Green Clearcoat Metallic X
Silver Frost Clearcoat Metallic X
Black Satin Clearcoat X
Vibrant White Clearcoat X
--------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------- 1997 ZX2 Hot -----------------------------
Exterior Interior
--------------------------------
Medium Slate Medium
Graphite Blue Prairie
Cloth Cloth Tan Cloth
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Ash Gold Clearcoat Metallic X
Light Pine Green Clearcoat X X
Metallic
Bright Red Clearcoat X X
Toreador Red Clearcoat Metallic X X
Light Denim Blue Clearcoat X X
Metallic
Denim Blue Clearcoat Metallic X X X
Pacific Green Clearcoat Metallic X X
Silver Frost Clearcoat Metallic X X
Black Satin Clearcoat X X
Vibrant White Clearcoat X X X
--------------------------------------------------------------------
1.4.2 1998 -----------------------------------
All options repeated from 1997, see section 1.4.1 for details.
1.4.3 1999 -----------------------------------
Interior trunk release made standard
Styled 14" bolt through wheel covers standard
New fabric and sew styles
Driver's side visor mirror standard
Appearance group deleted
Cool
Color keyed body side molding standard
Color keyed steering wheel standard
Rear spoiler available as stand alone option
Hot
All door remote entry with anti-theft
and panic button standard
AM/FM stereo with cassette standard
Leather wrapped steering wheel added (sports group)
Leather seating surface seats available (sports group)
------------------------- 1999 ZX2 Cool -------------------
Exterior Interior
-----------------------
Medium Medium
Graphite Prairie
Cloth Tan Cloth
-----------------------------------------------------------
Ash Gold Clearcoat Metallic X
Black Clearcoat X X
Bright Red Clearcoat X X
Denim Blue Clearcoat Metallic X X
Graphite Blue Clearcoat Metallic X
Oxford White Clearcoat X X
Silver Frost Clearcoat Metallic X
Toreador Red Clearcoat Metallic X X
Tropic Green Clearcoat Metallic X X
-----------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------- 1999 ZX2 Hot -------------------------
Exterior Interior
-----------------------------------
Dark
Charcoal Medium Medium
Cloth Graphite Prairie
REQ (41G) Cloth Tan Cloth
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Ash Gold Clearcoat Metallic X X
Autumn Orange Clearcoat X X
Metallic REQ (41G)
Black Clearcoat X X X
Bright Red Clearcoat X X X
Denim Blue Clearcoat Metallic X X X
Graphite Blue Clearcoat Metallic X X
Oxford White Clearcoat X X X
Silver Frost Clearcoat Metallic X X
Toreador Red Clearcoat Metallic X X X
Tropic Green Clearcoat Metallic X X X
-------------------------------------------------------------------
1.5 VIN ----------------------------------------
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is located on the instrument
panel, close to the windshield on the driver's side of the vehicle. It
is visible from outside the vehicle.
The 17-character label contains the following information:
Digits 1, 2, and 3: world manufacturer identifier (code 3FA) Digit 4:
restraint system type (code F, K, and L) Digit 5: 1997 models:
manufacturer's specification (code P) Digits 5, 6, and 7: 1998-99 models:
line, series, and body type (code 11) Digits 6 and 7: 1997 models: line,
series, and body type (code P11) Digit 8: engine type (code 3) Digit 9:
check digit Digit 10: vehicle model year (code V, '97; code W, '98; code X,
'99) Digit 11: assembly plant (code R, Hermisillo plant) Digit 12-17:
production sequence number (starts at 100,001)
1.6 VCL ----------------------------------------
A Vehicle Certification Label (VCL) is also affixed on the left front
door jamb. The VCL also contains a 17-digit Vehicle Identification
Number (VIN). This VIN is used for warranty identification.
This label contains the following information:
Manufacturer
Type of restraint system
Model series
Body type
Engine
Model year
Assembly plant
Production sequence number
Exterior color
Interior trim type and color
Radio type
Transaxle ratio
Transaxle type (code W, 5-speed manual; code E, 4-speed auto)
--------------------------------------------------
2.0 MODIFICATIONS
--------------------------------------------------
2.1 Precautions/Disclaimers --------------------
If you haven't read the disclaimer above (section 0.0), now is a good
time. I really can't be held responsible if you damage your car or
yourself. I am not an auto mechanic, however, the information below has
been taken from the ZX2 mailing list, written by some knowledgeable
folks. Take some precautions when modifying your vehicle, for example:
disconnect the negative wire from the battery when working on wiring,
wear eye protection when necessary, and use the right tools. Also,
before jumping into these modifications blindly, read the instructions a
couple of times.
2.2 Warranties ---------------------------------
In 1976, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act made it illegal for a
manufacturer to void a new vehicle warranty if the consumer uses non-OEM
parts. The below information is reprinted from:
<http://www.alternativeauto.com/waterbox_archives/archive_warranty.html>
"In today's market, even the most ardent enthusiast might pause before
making any performance modifications to a late-model,
emission-controlled vehicle. One of the first considerations before
"bolting-on" is the legality of any such modification."
"Almost everyone has heard that the mere installation and/or use of
aftermarket parts will void a vehicle manufacturer's warranty. That
claim appears to know no limitations and is heralded from coast to coast
with no lack of certainty. In spite of having unbridled support,
however, one basic problem remains: It's not true!"
"A second warranty required under the Clean Air Act is the performance
warranty. Under this warranty the vehicle is required to maintain
certain emission performance standards throughout its "useful" life. If
the car fails to meet those requirements, the vehicle manufacturer is
required to make repairs. What could void this warranty? The only
circumstance under which the vehicle manufacturer may void the emission
warranty is where the aftermarket part is responsible for the warranty
claim. The vehicle manufacturer cannot void the warranty merely because
aftermarket equipment has been installed on the vehicle."
"The law relating to the other types of warranties is similar. Federal
law, regulating to one extent or another, expressed and implied
warranties is very clear: That warranties may not be conditioned upon
the use of the manufacturer's parts or services unless those parts or
services are provided free of charge. Therefore, the expressed and
implied warranties cannot be voided merely because aftermarket parts are
installed on a vehicle. The warranties can be voided only where the
installation of an aftermarket part is DIRECTLY responsible for that
failure which gives rise to the warranty claim."
For a more detailed explanation on what the Magnuson-Moss Warranty act
covers, visit the Federal Trade Commissions website at:
<http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/buspubs/warranty/undermag.htm>
2.3 Difficulty Ratings -------------------------
Some of these modifications are easier than others. I will try to rate
which are simple and which tend to be more difficult. A scale of one
through five will indicate how easy or difficult the modification is. A
rating of one is easy: requiring only simple, common tools, a minimal
amount of time, and basic automobile knowledge. A rating of five is
harder: requiring potentially specifically designed tools, more time,
and a more complex understanding of automobiles.
2.4 Air Resonators -----------------------------
Upper Airtube Resonator
D/R: 1
Time: 10 minutes
Tools: Flathead screwdriver
Supplies: 7.5" long, 2.5" (outside diameter)
schedule 40 PVC or ABS flanged tubing
Black spray paint (optional)
Cost: Less than $5.00
This modification will add around 5 extra horsepower to your vehicle and
is an easy modification. It involves removing the upper airtube
resonator and swapping a new piece of tubing. The original resonator is
designed to reduce the sound of your engine, at the expense of
horsepower. The location of the resonator is as follows:
____
____| 3 |____
/4 ||______|| \
/__/ \ \
__|5 |__ |2 |
\/ \ \ _/
\ \ _/
\ | 1
\_|_
\_
\
1) Cone-shaped airfilter
2) S-shaped rubber air tube
3) Upper airtube resonator
4) 90 degree rubber air tube
5) Throttle on engine
You can obtain the PVC tubing at most hardware, plumbing, or electrical
stores. The tubing will come in 10' to 20' lengths with a flared end. It
is important that you purchase the PVC with the flared end. Some stores
require you to purchase the whole length of tubing, others will sell you
the 7.5" flared end. Make sure you buy 2.5" outside diameter (sometimes
listed as 2" interior diameter), otherwise it will not fit. There are
two different thicknesses of PVC as well. Buy the schedule 40 if you can
find it. There have been some reports that the thinwall grade tends to
warp over time due to engine heat.
Take the 7.5" long tubing and file, then sand the openings smooth to
remove any burrs. Clean the tube well to remove any plastic particles and
dirt. You may, optionally, want to paint your new tubing to match the black
rubber tubing of the engine. Unscrew the hose clamp connected to the
throttle body and the 90 degree tubing. This should easily slide off. Next,
unscrew the hose clamp on the S-shaped rubber tubing and the upper airtube
resonator. You will need to unscrew it almost all the way off. It will take
a lot of wiggling to taqke these two pieces apart. You will probably invent
a couple of great swear words while doing this. After removing, you should
have your resonator and 90 degree tube still connected together. Unscrew the
hose clamp and wiggle the parts apart. Connect the smaller diameter side of
the PVC tubing to the 90 degree tubing and tighten the hose clamp. Insert
flanged end of PVC tubing to S-shaped tubing and tighten the hose clamp.
Place the 90 degree tubing over throttle body and tighten the hose clamp.
Lower Intake Resonator
D/R: 1
Time: 30 minutes
Tools: Flathead screwdriver
Pliers
Socket wrench
10 mm socket
12 mm socket
2.5" extension
4" extension
Supplies: none
Cost: none
Like the above upper airtube resonator, the lower intake resonator is a
sound dampening device. The stock intake draws air from inside the
driver's side fender through a 1.5" hole. Removing the resonator makes
it easier for the engine to draw in air, since it will now have two
openings once the resonator is removed. Removing this restriction gives
a noticeable horsepower gain.
First, unscrew the hose clamp holding the airhose coming from the
airfilter box. Squeeze and separate the wiring harness that attaches to
the airfilter box. Remove the long, skinny tube from the side of the
airfilter box by squeezing its hose clamp with pliers. Unlatch the
metal band that holds the two halves of the airfilter box together.
Separate the two airfilter box halves. Remove the airfilter box half
closest to the engine bay. Unscrew the three, shiny 12 mm bolts holding
the other half of the airfilter box. Remove the other half of airfilter
box by slightly twisting and pulling the airtube from its tight rubber
molding.
You should be able to see the lower intake resonator more easily now. It
has the appearance of a black milk carton. You will need to remove the
rubber molding that held the airtube. It is held into place by three, 10
mm screws: one holding the A/C tube bracket on, and the other two below.
Slightly twist the lower intake resonator to remove it. Screw the rubber
molding back into place. Assemble the airfilter box's first half by
bolting it down again. Attach airfilter and the second half of the
airfilter box by relatching the clamp. Using pliers, attach the long,
skinny tube with the hose clamp. Tightly screw the airtube to the
airfilter box with the hose clamp. Remember to plug the wiring harness
back onto the airfilter box.
2.5 Ram Air ------------------------------------
D/R: 3
Time: 1 hour
Tools: Dremel with cutoff tool
Socket wrench
XXmm socket
1.5' - 2' socket extension
Pliers
Philips screwdriver
Supplies: 2' aluminum dryer hose
Cost: $5.00
***Still working on this one.
Iceman <http://www.ice-man.com>
2.6 Air Filter Replacement ---------------------
D/R: 1
Time: 10 minutes
Tools: none
Supplies: K&N airfilter, part #E-0995
Cost: $40.00
Without a doubt, replace your stock airfilter with a K&N airfilter. It
may be more expensive than the stock airfilter, but has a million mile
warranty. It only needs to be cleaned out every 50,000 miles. Your
engine will thank you and you may gain an extra 2-3 horsepower.
Unlatch the airfilter box clamp. Separate the airfilter box halves and
remove the cone-shaped stock airfilter. Insert the K&N airfilter and
attach both halves of the airfilter box together. Latch the airfilter
box clamp tightly. Remember to apply the stop sign-shaped sticker to your
airfilter, otherwise a mechanic may replace it with a stock airfilter on
your next oil change.
2.7 Oil Filter Replacement ---------------------
D/R: 1
Time: 10 minutes
Tools: Oil filter wrench
Supplies: Oil filter
Cost: -
***Still working on this one.
Ford OEM part #FL-2005
Fram part #PH3600
2.8 Clutch Pedal Adjustment --------------------
D/R: 2
Time: 10 minutes
Tools: Metric wrench (2)
Supplies: none
Cost: none
There can be a fair bit of travel in the clutch before it fully engages.
You can tighten up the tolorance by preloading on the hydraulic clutch
cylinder (this modification is similar to section 2.9, the brake pedal
adjustment). By lying on your back in the drivers side foot well,
follow the clutch linkage up. You will find a hex-shaped shaft. By
holding the clutch rod with one wrench, loosen the rod out of the pedal
by rotating it with another. When the clutch is firm and no longer has
play, you can tighten the nut.
2.9 Brake Pedal Adjustment ---------------------
D/R: 2
Time: 10 minutes
Tools: Pliers
Supplies: none
Cost: none
This modification will help remove the squishy feeling of your brakes.
Like the clutch pedal adjustment (section 2.8), you are preloading the
brakes master cylinder.
While lying on your back in the driver's foot well, follow the brake
linkage upward. You will find a rod with small "teeth". On the rod, you
will find a nut. Loosen it. Using pliers, loosen the rod so the rod
slides out of the brake pedal clamp, towards the engine. Two or three
turns are all that are required. Feel for how tight the brake feels by
wiggling the pedal as you turn the rod. Tighten the nut back.
Warning: Do not unscrew the rod to the point that it falls out of the
brake pedal.
2.10 3rd Brake Light Shielding -----------------
D/R: 1
Time: 30 minutes
Tools: Socket wrench
10 mm socket
Razor blade or X-acto knife
Metal straight edge or ruler
Supplies: .25" wide by .25" thick window weatherstripping
Cost: $5.00
If you've ever noticed your third brake light reflect off the back
window at night, this modification will fix that problem. Essentially
you are sealing the gap between the brake light housing and the window.
Remove the brake light holder by pushing gently at the center tabs of
the two plastic "plugs" located on each side of the the housing. It will
move inward, exposing the plugs. Use a 10 mm ratchet to take off the
inner housing that is pressed against the rear window. Turn the bulb
assembly counterclockwise to remove it.
Cut the weatherstripping to fit the edges of the housing. Remove the
plastic of the weatherstripping and adhere it to the edges. Avoid
putting the weatherstripping over the rubber tabs in the bottom area,
they already have contact against the rear window. Reassemble the
housing to finish.
2.11 Foglight Rewiring -------------------------
D/R: 1
Time: 10 minutes
Tools: -
Supplies: none
Cost: none
***Still working on this one.
2.12 Adding Remote Trunk Release ---------------
D/R: 2
Time: 20 minutes
Tools: Wire stripper
Supplies: 14-16 gauge wire
Momentary push button switch
Cost: $5.00
The 1997-98 ZX2 does not have a remote trunk release, but the 1999 model
does. This modification will allow those who have the power group, to
finally have a trunk release.
The panel to be removed is located directly right of where your feet
would be placed when sitting. Opening the passenger side door will
expose fully, the plastic panel. There are two type of plastic fasteners
holding the panel on: one push-pin type located in the door jam and two
center-pulls in the foot well area. Remove the fasteners. Lift the
plastic trim along the bottom of the door jam enough to allow the
plastic panel to be removed. It will make a snapping sound, but this
does not damage it.
There are two bundles of wires. Locate the bundle of wires with the
white male and female connectors. In the bundle, look for a green wire
with a black stripe. You will need to remove the plastic sheathing about
an inch, while avoiding cutting the wire. Attach your wire to the
green/black wire.
Test the setup by touching the wire to the car's bare metal. This will
ground the circuit and activate the solenoid. If it works, locate a
convenient spot to attach the switch. A good location is near the
drivers side, below the steering wheel. Attach a length of wire from the
green wire over to one of the switch's connectors. Attach the other
connector from the switch to a groundable source, like a bolt.
2.13 Disabling Speed Governor -----------------
D/R: 1
Time: 10 minutes
Tools: Wire cutter
Supplies: none
Cost: none
The speed governor limits the maximum speed of the ZX2 to around 106
mph. There is at least one good reason for this: the stock tires (both
14s and 15s) are rated for a maximum speed of 120 mph. It would be
dangerous to disable the speed governor without having better tires.
You must first remove the front cupholders by firmly pulling them up.
Also remove the molding holding them. The computer is now exposed, with
many wires coming from it. Find the black wire with a white stripe and
cut it. Your "check engine" light on the dash will turn on. Connecting
the wires will turn the "check engine" light off after or about 50
miles. Some have added a switch inline with the wire to disable the
speed governor only on certain occasions.
This modification may not work with automatic transmissions and cruise
control.
2.14 Detailing Rear Bumper Lettering -----------
You may have noticed the subdued indenting of the Escort ZX2 labeling
on the bumper. There are two methods to have them "stick-out" more.
Paint
D/R: 1
Time: 1.5 hours
Tools: Fiberglass sanding pencil
Penny
Supplies: Touch-up paint
Paint brush
Cost: $10.00
You can find the fiberglass sanding pencil at many hardware stores,
automotive stores and at Radio Shack. Carefully sand down the recesses
of the lettering with the pencil. Use a paint that will contrast with
the base color of your car. Examples include: black car - white or
silver paint, white or silver car - black or teal (matches "sport"
logo). Be creative. Avoid using the brush that comes included with the
touch-up point. Use a fairly decent brush, as you will get better
results applying the paint. Paint in the recessed areas with the
touch-up paint. If you make a slight mistake, use the edge of a penny to
get your edges clean and straight. Although not necessary, you may want
to add a layer of clear coating for a final sealant.
Reflective Tape
D/R: 1
Time: 1 hour
Tools: X-acto knife
Supplies: Reflective tape
Cost: $5.00
Instead of painting the indented lettering, you may want to use
reflective tape. You may not be able to find the tape wide enough for
each letter without having to overlap pieces. Tape strips over the
lettering (overlapping strips if necessary) and rub with your fingernail
so it sticks to the bumper. Carefully cut the tape to the edges of the
indenting with the x-acto knife, you do not want to cut deeply into the
clearcoat. Remove any excess. Using your fingernail again, rub the tape
a final time to firmly adhere it.
2.15 Superchip ---------------------------------
D/R: 3
Time: 30 minutes
Tools: -
Supplies: none
Cost: $200.00
The superchip is a replacement of your factory chip with a chip custom
made for the model of your car. It is necessary to use premium fuel, as
this alters the stock program (see air sensor modification, section
2.26). Also, the bottom and mid range is increased by altering the
ignition curves. You may also ask to increase the limitations of the
speed governor. There may be some problems with the chip replacement.
If you have problems, you can always replace the superchip with the
stock chip.
The gains posted here are from the Superchips website
<http://www.superchips.com>:
HP Increase +13hp
Torque Increase +15ft/lb
The company will need an example code located on the computer. Some of
the examples codes for the ZX2 are: JJJ2 NNN2 MTA4
2.16 Tires/Rims --------------------------------
Tires
D/R: 4
Time: 1 hour
Tools: -
Supplies: -
Cost: $100.00 to $1,000.00
***Still working on this one.
Rims
D/R: 4
Time: 1 hour
Tools: -
Supplies: -
Cost: $200.00 to $3,000.00
***Still working on this one.
2.17 Mufflers ----------------------------------
D/R: 5
Time: -
Tools: -
Supplies: -
Cost: $75.00 to $200.00
This modification isn't a "do-it-your-selfer". You can find a local
bodyshop in your yellow pages that will install the muffler.
There are many choices when purchasing a muffler. It may be as simple as
replacing just the muffler or slightly more complicated by replacing the
muffler, exhaust tubing, and a tip. The stock exhaust tubing for the ZX2
is 1.75". The exhaust tubing, if you are to replace it, should not
exceed 2.25". You will lose some low end acceleration as compared to a
2" tubing. 2.5" is too big and 1.75" is a bit restrictive. As there
seems to be a lot of room underneath, you muffler choice shouldn't be
too limited.
Here are some recommendations:
Exhaust Tubing:
2" to 2.25"
Mufflers:
Dynomax Race Magnum
Dynomax UltraFlow
Dynomax Super Turbo
Magnaflow
Terminator FloTech
Flowmaster
Borla
Tips:
Pacesetter Monza
2.18 Springs -----------------------------------
D/R: 5
Time: 6 hours
Tools: -
Supplies: none
Cost: none
***Still working on this one.
Eibach, part #3584.140 pro-kit
<http://www.eibach.com>
inTrax, part #
2.19 Audio -------------------------------------
Replacing Faceplate
D/R: 2
Time: 30 minutes
Tools: Radio removal tool T87P-19061-A or equivalent
Supplies: Metra faceplate or
Scorche faceplate
Cost: $40.00 to $70.00
If you are replacing the audio system which requires a new faceplate,
you have a couple of options. Both the Metra and Scorche are designed
for Ford's "integrated control unit". Some owners say the Scorche looks
better than the Metra and resembles the original.
You will need to order the radio removal tool from Ford or from a retail
car audio installer.
Front Speakers
D/R: 2
Time: minutes
Tools:
Supplies:
Cost: unlimited
***Still working on this one.
The front door speakers are sized for 5"x7". You will first need to
remove the door trim panel.
Rear Speakers
D/R: 2
Time: minutes
Tools:
Supplies:
Cost: unlimited
***Still working on this one.
The rear deck speakers are sized for 5"X7"
Additional Speakers
D/R: 2
Time: minutes
Tools:
Supplies:
Cost: unlimited
***Still working on this one.
Amp
D/R: 1
Time: 10 minutes
Tools: -
Supplies: none
Cost: none
***Still working on this one.
The amp is located under the drivers or passengers seat, depending on
the year of the car. Even though there is a heating duct under both
front seats, the amp doesn't seem to be in the way. When installing
anything under the seat be aware that you will probably be blocking a
heating duct.
CD Player
D/R: 1
Time: 10 minutes
Tools: -
Supplies: none
Cost: none
***Still working on this one.
2.20 Window Tinting ----------------------------
D/R: 5
Time: many hours
Tools: -
Supplies: -
Cost: $100.00 to $300.00
The cliche, "You get what you pay for" is very appropriate when it comes to
window tinting. You can buy window tinting supplies from any automobile
supply store for under $50.00, however the results may prove to be
disappointing. I would also recommend staying away from some of the discount
national chains, as the results may look awful. I would recommend any one
who wants to get their windows tinted to get some sort of written guarantee
that the tinting will not bubble or fade. Usually the guarantee will last
three to five years. Shop around.
Be warned about the back window of the ZX2, it may cause some problems.
The top six inches already has a dotted tinting (along with the ZX2
badging) on the back window. This may cause the window tinting to
"bubble" or create noticeable air pockets. You probably will want to
talk to whomever will be tinting your windows about this. If bubbles
are present, you may be able to use a hair dryer on the hottest setting
and try to shrink the tinting.
2.21 Nitrous -----------------------------------
D/R: 5
Time: many hours
Tools: -
Supplies: -
Cost: $XXX.00
This will void your warranty on the drivetrain. If not used properly,
you will lose your engine. The plus side is that you will gain an
instant 75 horsepower. Universal kits exist, but being universal,
instructions will be minimal. Here are some tips though:
1) Get a custom chip, like the Superchip (section 2.15), and have them
retard the timing four or five degrees for the entire curve.
2) Do not use platinum spark plugs, as platinum is a catalyst and will
predetonate nitrous before the valves are closed.
3) Use the highest octane you can afford (94+).
2.22 Valve Cover Engine Plate ------------------
D/R: 2
Time: 15 minutes
Tools: -
Supplies: -
Cost: $***.00
A billet aluminum valve cover plate for the engine, complete with
engraving, is available at Pete Rogalla's website:
<http://kuehner.simplenet.com/zx2/rogalla.html>
2.23 Instrument Panel Faceplate Replacement -----
D/R: 3
Time: 1 hour
Tools: unknown
Supplies: unknown
Cost: $119.00
NR Automobile Accessories can manufacture colored replacement gauges.
They need a minimum order of 30 (at $119.00) to manufacture them. If you
would like to get on the ordering list, please contact
<sp...@idirect.com> with your full name and approximate purchase date.
2.24 Sparkplug Wires Replacement ---------------
D/R: 1
Time: 15 minutes
Tools: -
Supplies: Replacement wires
Cost: $65.00 to $100.00
***Still working on this one.
There is some debate as to whether replacement sparkplug wires make a
difference. Potentially, there is an increase in horse power and
starting (especially in cold weather). Others say that there is not much
of an increase and it is primarily for show.
Magnecor Race Wires (8.5 mm, part #45227)
<http://www.magnecor.com>
Nology Hot Wires
<http://www.nology.com>
2.25 Shiftknob Replacement ---------------------
D/R: 1
Time: 10 minutes
Tools: none
Supplies: Replacement shift knob
Cost: $15.00 to $100.00
The shift knob for the ZX2 simply unscrews from the shift stick.
Remember: righty-tighty, lefty-loosey.
2.26 Air Temperature Sensor --------------------
D/R: 4
Time: 1 hour
Tools: Wire cutter
Supplies: 5K ohm 1/2 watt 5% tolerance resistor
Cost: $5.00
This modification will void your warranty. You will need to use premium
gas, as the modification relies on advanced timing. The ZX2 is effected
by local air temperatures. Hotter weather means less dense air,
requiring the engine to use less fuel, at the expense of power. When the
temperature is warmer, less resistance. When the temperature is cooler,
more resistance. By fooling the air temperature sensor into thinking
that the air is cooler, the engine will receive more fuel, thus
increasing power.
This is done by splicing inline a 5K ohm resistor onto the sensor
wire.To do this, you will need to remove the sensor from the cone-shaped
air filter box.***
To go farther with this modification, attach a two position terminal
block inline instead of the resistor. This will allow you to easily
remove resistors, if you are trying to find the right resistance.
2.27 Strut Bars --------------------------------
D/R: 3
Time: 1 hour
Tools: -
Supplies: -
Cost: $150.00
***Still working on this one.
I know someone makes these, but who?
--------------------------------------------------
This FAQ is Copyright (c) 1999 by Flint Hahn, all rights reserved.
Permission is granted to freely distribute this document in its
entirety via e-mail, usenet posting, BBS, on-line service, or hard copy.
Distribution for profit or financial gain is not permitted. Distribution
in commercial collections, compilations, or books without express
permission from the author is not permitted. Excerpts of the FAQ may be
reproduced only if the following copyright notice appears with the
excerpt:
Ford Escort ZX2 FAQ, Copyright (c) 1999 by Flint Hahn <fli...@ix.netcom.com>
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